Rear brakecaliber removal


Information and questions on GL1200 Goldwings (1984-1987)
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SilverDave
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Rear brakecaliber removal

Postby SilverDave » Fri Mar 25, 2016 5:26 pm



I am replacing a 6 year old rear tire.

Everything was going perfectly : bag, fender, shocks, pinch bolt, axel
nut ( Whew ... that was TIGHT ! ) and caliber bolt and slider ..
Step 11 says " Pull the caliper up and off of the rotor"

Sounds sooo simple ... But the brake disk has a very slight lip which is making the pads hang up ..

Suggestions ?

( short of removing the banjo bolt and re- bleeding rear system )

I s there something to lever with ?
or something to pry against ??

or some trick I am missing ??


Heavy sigh

SilverDave



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twocams
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Re: Rear brakecaliber removal

Postby twocams » Fri Mar 25, 2016 6:43 pm

Push the pistons in some. Screwdriver or your choice of weapon. Get between the pad and rotor and pry pistons in a little. Watch the brake fluid level it will raise some in container.

twocams

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skier
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Re: Rear brakecaliber removal

Postby skier » Sat Mar 26, 2016 9:41 am

I've cracked open the bleeder a bit to ease things when prying the pads apart.

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Rednaxs60
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Re: Rear brakecaliber removal

Postby Rednaxs60 » Sat Mar 26, 2016 10:32 am

SD - as has been said, pry the pads apart - the caliper will come off. When you install the rear caliper and have everything buttoned up - press on the rear brake lever SLOWLY until the pistons are extended and the brake pedal is firm again. May take a couple of pumps of the brake lever, but do it slowly.

Cheers
"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"

Ernest

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SilverDave
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Re: Rear brakecaliber removal

Postby SilverDave » Sat Mar 26, 2016 6:10 pm

Well... I spent 15 min with my smallest ( thinest ) screwdriver, trying to get a purchase under the pads... no go...

so I got a small piece of 2x4 and a longer 2x2 piece of oak stick, made a class one lever, and just levered it up and down till it slid off.. ( It was loose, but jamming on the tiny ridge )

Anyway, Step 2 is to remove the pad holder pins...They were in so tight that I had to drift them out ...

After I got them both out , I took a digital caliber to the pins. :
Hole is 6.00mm
shaft is 5.97 mm...
and the very end of the shafts had mushroomed out to 6.03mm

Its easy to fix, once the pins are out, but a pain to drift them out :
basically trying to drive a 6.03mm shaft thru a 6.00 hole !!

I put them in a drill press , and sanded just the ends down to 5.97 or so, and now they slide in , smooth as silk... as they should.

SilverDave

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roadwanderer2
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Re: Rear brakecaliber removal

Postby roadwanderer2 » Sat Mar 26, 2016 6:28 pm

did you have a brake hose clamp on that brake hose when you opened the bleeder screw up to move the pistons back in? if not, you might have to bleed the one front caliper, (i forget which front one offhand), and the rear caliper to remove any air that might have gotten into the braking system.

stuart.

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redeyerebel
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Re: Rear brakecaliber removal

Postby redeyerebel » Sat Mar 26, 2016 6:54 pm

i just took my rear tire off i just cracked the bleeder some and pry it with a screw driver i got a hanging brake rear brake is in sad shape so ill deal with that next these damn drive rubbers are pissing me off starting to think im going to have to fab something up but i dont want to put it back on like that so...brain storming and its the front left caliper you need to bleed as well witch i will be doing as well becouse it has a striped bleeder on it think i will try to line bleed it instead of risking breaking the bleeder

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Re: Rear brakecaliber removal

Postby roadwanderer2 » Sat Mar 26, 2016 7:04 pm

you can try using some PB Blaster on that bleeder screw. let it soak in for a day or 2 then try to move, or you could use a small bunson burner torch and heat up the area where the bleeder nut is at. just a tiny amount of heat may be enough to make it break free. i've done that before with some success. the rubber things your talking about, are they the ones that the final drive flange fits into that are on the inside of the real wheel?

stuart.
Last edited by roadwanderer2 on Sat Mar 26, 2016 7:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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redeyerebel
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Re: Rear brakecaliber removal

Postby redeyerebel » Sat Mar 26, 2016 7:07 pm

yes them are the ones on the drive flange any ideas :?:

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roadwanderer2
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Re: Rear brakecaliber removal

Postby roadwanderer2 » Sat Mar 26, 2016 7:12 pm

well, give me a few minutes to do some research on them and i'll let you know what i find out.

stuart.

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roadwanderer2
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Re: Rear brakecaliber removal

Postby roadwanderer2 » Sat Mar 26, 2016 7:32 pm

ok, i did some parts research and cant find them, even for OEM parts, they are not available. are they worn out?, does your flange wobble when you put it down into the wheel? you might have to do what i did when my rear wheel bearing went bad, you might have to replace the whole wheel. from what i've seen, those rubber bushings are pressed into the wheel from the factory. maybe wingadmin might have a suggestion that can be helpful, but i don't think those rubber bushings can be replaced without replacing the wheel, and if your gonna replace the wheel, your best bet is to replace the wheel bearings, (both sides) when you get another wheel. there is a very good "how-to" article on replacing your rear wheel bearings if you want to try doing them yourself. you can find a rear wheel on eBay for a decent price. if you want, and are going to replace the wheel, i can do some searching and send you a few links to them,(more than one), and you can decide which one you want to get, but before you go that far, ask wingadmin about it first. if anyone here knows about them, he will.

heres one wheel i found that looks to be in good condition IF your thinking about replacing your rear wheel.....http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-GL1200A-A ... ZM&vxp=mtr

i also have a friend that owns a motorcycle salvage yard near me and i know for a fact he has an 85 1200 in his building he's breaking down for parts. i might be able to get it for a good price for ya. i'll contact him Monday and ask what he wants for it.

stuart.

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redeyerebel
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Re: Rear brakecaliber removal

Postby redeyerebel » Sat Mar 26, 2016 7:45 pm

roadwanderer2 wrote:ok, i did some parts research and cant find them, even for OEM parts, they are not available. are they worn out?, does your flange wobble when you put it down into the wheel? you might have to do what i did when my rear wheel bearing went bad, you might have to replace the whole wheel. from what i've seen, those rubber bushings are pressed into the wheel from the factory. maybe wingadmin might have a suggestion that can be helpful, but i don't think those rubber bushings can be replaced without replacing the wheel, and if your gonna replace the wheel, your best bet is to replace the wheel bearings, (both sides) when you get another wheel. there is a very good "how-to" article on replacing your rear wheel bearings if you want to try doing them yourself. you can find a rear wheel on eBay for a decent price. if you want, and are going to replace the wheel, i can do some searching and send you a few links to them,(more than one), and you can decide which one you want to get, but before you go that far, ask wingadmin about it first. if anyone here knows about them, he will.

stuart.
ok thanks stuart i coulnt find them ether i mite check on some car bushings but i mite look into a 84 interstate rear rim just for the 16 rim but im the working poor and finding one in good shape is getting hard and you simply cant tell from a photo on ebay if its warped or has hair line cracks on it :(

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roadwanderer2
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Re: Rear brakecaliber removal

Postby roadwanderer2 » Sat Mar 26, 2016 7:58 pm

i dont think using car bushings is going to work, these bushings are made to precise measurements that are made for that particular wheel. as for finding the right part, that is very true, but the one that i sent you the link for is the best one out of all of them. its the cleanest, rust free wheel there. the bushings and bearings look to be nice and clean which is just the way you want them to be, plus you get "buyer protection" with the purchase if using Paypal. i've been using eBay for my bike parts for over 10 years and in all the years i've been buying my bike parts on eBay, i think i might have had 5 or 6 parts that i had to send back for one reason or another.

before you purchase ANY part from ANY of the sellers, ask them questions about the item, like, how many miles was on the bike that the part came off of, or any other question that you think is necessary to ask. look for the sellers that offer free shipping and a "money back guarantee", and if they don't help you with returns, eBay will step in and help you get a refund. i know they've helped me a few times if i had a problem with a part from a seller.

let me know if there's anything else i can help you find.

stuart.

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Rednaxs60
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Re: Rear brakecaliber removal

Postby Rednaxs60 » Sat Mar 26, 2016 10:37 pm

SD and Stuart - don't want to hijack the thread. Regarding the cush dampers in the wheel of a 1200, I will start another thread regarding information I have found on these items.

Cheers
"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"

Ernest

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roadwanderer2
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Motorcycle: 83 GL1100A aspencade, previously owned, 1981 honda GL500i silverwing interstate, 1974 yamaha xs400, 1974 Honda cb450 twin cam, 1983 honda vt30, 1982 honda 700 shadow, 1972 cb750four, and my first bike, a brand new 1982 honda CM400e. and a new to me 1986 GL1200 aspencade SEi
Contact:

Re: Rear brakecaliber removal

Postby roadwanderer2 » Sun Mar 27, 2016 6:15 am

sounds good red, let us know what you found out.

stuart.




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