Information and questions on GL1200 Goldwings (1984-1987)
- Sponsored Links
2 posts • Page 1 of 1
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2016 7:13 am
- Location: Rochester Michigan
- Motorcycle: Honda goldwing gl1200a aspencade
I had wish I found this site before I started trying to fix my 1986 Goldwing GL 1200 a my charging system was failing on my motorcycle I had talked to you a few mechanics and they had insisted that it was the stator so I replace the stator but that didn't solve the problem I need help to figure out what the problem is
- Posts: 1849
- Joined: Tue Oct 20, 2009 11:21 am
- Location: Plano, TX
- Motorcycle: 2004 GL1800, 2005 Honda Shadow 750, 2008 Yamaha R6 with RG500 engine, CRF450X, CRF230, CRF250X, XR200, CR500
There are 3 wires that come from the stator and go to the rectifier/regulator unit, there is a beefy connector that connects the stator to the regulator/rectifier unit and this connector is famous for corrosion and that can cause the charging system to fail. If you replaced the stator I assume you will have unplugged the connector and noticed if it was all corroded or not. I still suggest that you go and check on the connector. If the connector is making good connection (not black and burnt from heating up due to poor connectivity) and you have a new stator, the only thing left that can really be defective is the rectifier/regulator unit. Before buying a new regulator/rectifier check the new stator is good. if you have a multimeter, check that you have connection between all 3 leads coming out of the stator and NO connection between any of the 3 wires coming out and the engine case (Negative), the stator needs to be installed in the engine for this check!! If the stator is good then you need to set your multimeter to read AC voltage, start the engine and measure across the 3 wires to check that you have voltage present (probably more than 30 volts, if you call the wires A, B & C, then measure across A & B, B & C and A & C, they should all be putting out a similar voltage). If you are seeing an ac voltage across all 3 wires then the stator is good. You can then turn off the motor, put the multimeter back to DC and connect it to the terminals of the battery, turn the ignition On and note the voltage (read it accurately) then start the engine, hold it at 2000 RPM and check the voltage across the battery, it should have gone up by 1 or 2 volts to something around 14 volts, if it has then the charging circuit is working correctly. If the voltage across the battery does not increase when the engine is started and held at 2000RPM, but the stator AC voltage test was good, then you have either a defective regulator/rectifier unit or a bad connection between the stator and regulator/rectifier, or a bad connection between the regulator/rectifier unit and the battery. A good connection between the rectifier/regulator unit and the frame (Negative) is critical to good operation of the charging system so check where the negative lead of the regulator/rectifier unit connects to the frame and make sure it's not all corroded or rusty (if it is, unbolt the earth connection and clean it up and then bolt it back on and re-run the battery voltage test with the engine running at 2000RPM and see if it fixed the issue). If all connections seem good and you have connectivity between the regulator/rectifier unit and the battery and stator, then the regulator/rectifier unit is defective and will need to be replaced. On some early goldwings, there was a switched positive supply (from the ignition switch) that goes to the regulator/rectifier unit, if you have that switched supply, also make sure that the connection on the regulator/rectifier is going positive when the ignition is turned on, if the wire does not get switched to 12 volts (battery positive voltage) then the regulator/rectifier unit will not operate. Sometimes the ignition switch goes bad or the wire from the ignition switch to the regulator/rectifier unit goes bad, so if you have this feature (need to find the schematic for your exact model of wing to confirm if you have that switched voltage, Honda removed it on later models!) you need to also check this before replacing the regulator/rectifier unit.
Hope that helps.
Hope that helps.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Goofaroo and 1 guest