Stator Questions


Information and questions on GL1200 Goldwings (1984-1987)
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Sparky4017
Posts: 78
Joined: Tue Jan 24, 2017 10:04 pm
Location: Enid Oklahoma
Motorcycle: 83 goldwing aspencade 1100
95 BMW 750 (The Flying Brick)
84 goldwing aspencade 1200 SOLD

Stator Questions

Post by Sparky4017 » Sun Mar 12, 2017 7:36 pm



Here's the question I have a nice 83 Aspencade spent 3 months getting her ready to ride, timing belts
Tires brakes the usually winter project. Now I have found a 84 Aspencade or it found me it's nice 65000 miles new rubber and brakes last season timing belts unknown. The stator is what is holding me back most say they will fail before 60000 miles went back today looked at is again took my multi meter putting out 14+ volts at the battery. The stator connection where the stator plugs in has been hot the stator side looks ok the battery side is toasted is this a given the stator is cooked. By cutting the plug out and direct wiring and adding a fuse the right way I haven't bought it yet it has several upgrades from the 83 I like. INPUT PLEASE Thanks 8-)



sportsfreaked
Posts: 341
Joined: Fri Mar 13, 2015 7:23 am
Location: Independence, MO
Motorcycle: 1981 Honda Goldwing Interstate GL1100I
1985 Honda Goldwing Limited Edition gl1200

Re: Stator Questions

Post by sportsfreaked » Sun Mar 12, 2017 7:54 pm

You can cut out the plug and direct wire via solder and you would be ok. If you are getting 14+ volts then the stator is working. The question is how much longer she'll work. No telling for sure. It could last another 2 years or crap out next week. To me the belts being an unknown is more significant. At the least, for piece of mind, you should change belts. You can also do the alternator upgrade to take care of a potential stator problem. It's all a matter of taste and what you like or want. You could keep both or sell the 83. You know what you have in the 83 though. Another question is do you have a wife? That will dictate what you do as well :lol: :lol: :lol: . Best of luck.
Thanks to all who answer and help. It is greatly appreciated!
Ed

Sparky4017
Posts: 78
Joined: Tue Jan 24, 2017 10:04 pm
Location: Enid Oklahoma
Motorcycle: 83 goldwing aspencade 1100
95 BMW 750 (The Flying Brick)
84 goldwing aspencade 1200 SOLD

Re: Stator Questions

Post by Sparky4017 » Sun Mar 12, 2017 8:00 pm

I do have a wife but she doesn't ride when I want to cut loose I get the BMW out is the stator in the 83 the same with the same issues as the 84 I can by the bike fit $1000.

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Rednaxs60
Posts: 1225
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Location: Victoria, British Columbia, Canada
Motorcycle: 1985 GL1200 LTD, 2008 GL1800

Re: Stator Questions

Post by Rednaxs60 » Mon Mar 13, 2017 7:30 am

If you were to get the '84, do the timing belts for piece of mind. As for the stator, there is no set rule. It is electrical, internal to the engine and covered in oil. It is approximately 390 watts. These smaller stators from my reading have tended to be more reliable than the larger 490 watt on the '85 limited edition and '86 special edition injected models. Check the wires coming out of the rear case to see if the wires have been overheated at that point, or that the wire insulation has come away from the rear case plug (mine did that).

Picture of the stator wires coming out of the rear case on my '85 Limited
Picture of the stator wires coming out of the rear case on my '85 Limited

You can do the hard wire soldering mentioned and go from there, or do the alternator mod if the stator were to fail. You must also remember that the bike is 34 years old, anything can happen, and you will need to do maintenance.

If you have done a lot of work on the '83 and plan on keeping it along with the '84, buy the '84 - you'll always have a bike on the road. If your plan is to buy the '84 and sell the '83, someone else is going to enjoy your work and money. If you are on the fence, enjoy the '83 for a while. There will always be another 1200 out there that will tweak your fancy.

Cheers
"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"

Ernest

Sparky4017
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Motorcycle: 83 goldwing aspencade 1100
95 BMW 750 (The Flying Brick)
84 goldwing aspencade 1200 SOLD

Re: Stator Questions

Post by Sparky4017 » Mon Mar 13, 2017 8:44 am

No fence here I like the 83 and yes I have put a lot of time and money in it work paid off and it's a nice machine. The 84 has some nice upgrades that I like I will keep both.

flash1942
Posts: 145
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Location: Midwest
Motorcycle: '84 Aspencade

Re: Stator Questions

Post by flash1942 » Mon Mar 13, 2017 9:40 am

USUALLY stators fail because of being overloaded electrically by farkles and/or such other nonsense (think Christmas tree lites) or by a poor connection at the 3 wire plug. Moral: don't overdo it by excessively overloading and remove the plug and solder and insulate the 3 yellow wires. For further peace of mind remove the OEM R/R and install a Shindigen series type R/R. It gives the bike exactly what it needs at the time and no more. It makes the stator behave similar to a automotive alternator. That will add a lot to your stator's life.

Sparky4017
Posts: 78
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Location: Enid Oklahoma
Motorcycle: 83 goldwing aspencade 1100
95 BMW 750 (The Flying Brick)
84 goldwing aspencade 1200 SOLD

Re: Stator Questions

Post by Sparky4017 » Mon Mar 13, 2017 10:20 am

I'm not trying to be dumb but could you be a little more precious on the OEM R/R I'm not sure I understand Thanks

sportsfreaked
Posts: 341
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Motorcycle: 1981 Honda Goldwing Interstate GL1100I
1985 Honda Goldwing Limited Edition gl1200

Re: Stator Questions

Post by sportsfreaked » Mon Mar 13, 2017 10:42 am

No question is dumb that's how we learn. He is referring to the regulator / rectifier.
Thanks to all who answer and help. It is greatly appreciated!
Ed

Sparky4017
Posts: 78
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Location: Enid Oklahoma
Motorcycle: 83 goldwing aspencade 1100
95 BMW 750 (The Flying Brick)
84 goldwing aspencade 1200 SOLD

Re: Stator Questions

Post by Sparky4017 » Mon Mar 13, 2017 10:57 am

If I understand the OEM R/R is problematic so it's best to change it I haven't bought the bike yet waiting on the owner to bring the title up to date I thought $1000 not a bad deal here is the bike.







sportsfreaked
Posts: 341
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Motorcycle: 1981 Honda Goldwing Interstate GL1100I
1985 Honda Goldwing Limited Edition gl1200

Re: Stator Questions

Post by sportsfreaked » Mon Mar 13, 2017 11:02 am

Yes you are correct Sparky. Not a bad looking ride for $1000.00. Don't hesitate to ask anything here. Folks around here don't judge just happy to help when can :)
Thanks to all who answer and help. It is greatly appreciated!
Ed

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Rednaxs60
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Location: Victoria, British Columbia, Canada
Motorcycle: 1985 GL1200 LTD, 2008 GL1800

Re: Stator Questions

Post by Rednaxs60 » Mon Mar 13, 2017 11:05 am

Read on another thread, maybe not this forum, where a fellow buys these older bikes and has a budget of $3000.00 for the buy and fix for the road. At a $1000.00 for the buy, you have $2000.00 left for the maintenance work needed. If all you are concerned about is the stator, lots of money left depending on if you are doing the wrenching or not.

If the bike is roadworthy right now, solder the stator wires and ride. Find out from the owner when/if the timing belts have been done. Since you would/will have two bikes to ride - three if I read your posts correct - if anything happens electrically, you will always have a bike to ride. Many people have had a long and wonderful life with the original stator, some not - luck of the draw.

Nice looking bike, go for it.

Cheers
"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"

Ernest

Sparky4017
Posts: 78
Joined: Tue Jan 24, 2017 10:04 pm
Location: Enid Oklahoma
Motorcycle: 83 goldwing aspencade 1100
95 BMW 750 (The Flying Brick)
84 goldwing aspencade 1200 SOLD

Re: Stator Questions

Post by Sparky4017 » Mon Mar 13, 2017 11:24 am

Here is my 83 Aspencade lots of work have about $1500 in it with all the repairs timing belts, brakes
Master cylinder rear, tires fun ride I'll keep this one to.



Sparky4017
Posts: 78
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Location: Enid Oklahoma
Motorcycle: 83 goldwing aspencade 1100
95 BMW 750 (The Flying Brick)
84 goldwing aspencade 1200 SOLD

Re: Stator Questions

Post by Sparky4017 » Mon Mar 20, 2017 10:33 pm

Here is the burnt plug I'm talking about



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Rednaxs60
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Re: Stator Questions

Post by Rednaxs60 » Tue Mar 21, 2017 10:09 am

Sparky4017 wrote:Here is the burnt plug I'm talking about IMG_0517.JPG
The general consensus is to remove the connector and solder the wires together. Some have replaced the connector and used dialectic grease to seal. This is to facilitate stator replacement in the future (if needed) so that wires do not have to be cut and soldered. If you do use a new connector, put it on your list as a yearly maintenance item that needs to be inspected and cleaned.

Check the stator wires where these come out of the rear case as I mentioned in a previous post.

I know people who ride and are dependent on a shop to keep them informed and do maintenance. These issues do occur and as long as the bike works okay no need to do corrective maintenance. Saw on another forum where a PO had used copper wire in place of the 30 amp dog bone fuse in the starter solenoid. Bike worked, but not very safe. Takes all kinds.

Good luck.

Cheers
"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"

Ernest

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SilverDave
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Location: Langley, BC
Motorcycle: 1985 GL1200 GoldWing Aspy

Re: Stator Questions

Post by SilverDave » Tue Mar 21, 2017 11:14 am

About 13 years ago, I had intermittent voltages ( showed up one afternoon on the digital dash , indicating 200 kph, then 0kph then 200.... wow !! )
Over the next month I cut , western union spliced, hard soldered and shrink wrapped all the yellows and all the wires at the rect/reg . I also added an Electrical Connections GL1200 harness.

That was at least 60,000 ago ..
I have a fair number of extra farckle lights , which I have mostly replaced with LED's . I also change my oil very often . Last year I went to a 35watt HID headlight .

Same stator, original RR, same bike . Voltmeter still reads 14+ after about 5 blocks after startup

but as others have pointed out ...

Stator could fail in 2 weeks, or 20 years .. You takes your chances

Ride safe, ride happy

SilverDave

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CrystalPistol
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Motorcycle: 1985 GL1200A
1997 GL1500SE Lehman Trike

Re: Stator Questions

Post by CrystalPistol » Tue Mar 21, 2017 5:19 pm

Rednaxs60 wrote:
Sparky4017 wrote:Here is the burnt plug I'm talking about IMG_0517.JPG
The general consensus is to remove the connector and solder the wires together. Some have replaced the connector and used dialectic grease to seal. This is to facilitate stator replacement in the future (if needed) so that wires do not have to be cut and soldered. If you do use a new connector, put it on your list as a yearly maintenance item that needs to be inspected and cleaned. ...... e t c .....
What I did when I R&R-ed my '85's stator with new Honda stator in 1997-8. When I bought the bike in 1995 the plug had been bypassed by local shop but it still had the OEM stator. One leg of that stator gave up a couple years later, still charged at a lower rate at highway speed but discharged a lot at traffic lights that day. Volt meter told me what was happening. I got new plug kit as well as stator from Honda, disassembled plug male & female halves, and soldered the wire leads to the connectors at crimps, put it all together and stuffed plug with the dielectric grease.

Still looked new at last oil change in 2016. That plug carries AC voltage and is near a battery vent .... so I wrapped it with tape as well.


Image

Sparky4017
Posts: 78
Joined: Tue Jan 24, 2017 10:04 pm
Location: Enid Oklahoma
Motorcycle: 83 goldwing aspencade 1100
95 BMW 750 (The Flying Brick)
84 goldwing aspencade 1200 SOLD

Re: Stator Questions

Post by Sparky4017 » Sun Mar 26, 2017 9:10 pm

Stator wires repaired thought I was ready for a test ride never rode it yet after letting it warm up I see a drip of antifreeze from the weep hole. Is there a kit or do you replace water pump it's been setting a year not a steady drip about every couple of minutes one drip. 8-)

FLRobert
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Re: Stator Questions

Post by FLRobert » Tue Mar 28, 2017 11:43 am

Where can one acquire a Shindigen series type R/R

FLRobert
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Re: Stator Questions

Post by FLRobert » Thu Mar 30, 2017 9:20 pm


sportsfreaked
Posts: 341
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Location: Independence, MO
Motorcycle: 1981 Honda Goldwing Interstate GL1100I
1985 Honda Goldwing Limited Edition gl1200

Re: Stator Questions

Post by sportsfreaked » Fri Mar 31, 2017 8:39 am

That will work. That's what you need.
Thanks to all who answer and help. It is greatly appreciated!
Ed

tbeiler
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Motorcycle: 1986 Goldwing Aspencade,
1985 Goldwing LTD
1983 CX650 Turbo
wanted badly CBX 79-82

Re: Stator Questions

Post by tbeiler » Fri Mar 31, 2017 8:54 am

The RR that you reference is a shunt type RR with part number prefix shown as SH, this is what came on our bikes from factory. The SH type uses diodes and is 1960's technology.
Google the Shindengen mosfet style RR, they are shown as a part number with FH prefix. The FH is also a shunt type RR, but the new ones use transistors and is newest technology. This makes them much more precise. On this site is a really good thread, can't find it at the moment, that explains the differences between the SH and FH series RR's.

Check out this site for some good information.
http://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/kn ... how-25117/
This should help with your decision which way to go.
Good Luck

flash1942
Posts: 145
Joined: Fri Jan 24, 2014 4:37 pm
Location: Midwest
Motorcycle: '84 Aspencade

Re: Stator Questions

Post by flash1942 » Fri Mar 31, 2017 9:42 am

Check out Roadster Cycle. He is a stand up guy that backs up what he sells. He has the series reg in a ready to install kit. I have bought a couple of his series kits. With Ebay you are on your own in a lot of cases.

To further explain the diff between series and the shunt types is with the shunt regs the less power your bike demands causes the the reg to absorb/dissipate excess power. The series type is just the opposite. The more power the bike demands causes the reg to generate and dissipate heat because of rectification. Both types change the A/C stator output to DC but the process of rectification generates heat.



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