1987 GL1200A choke cable replacement


Information and questions on GL1200 Goldwings (1984-1987)
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Scotsman
Posts: 6
Joined: Fri Mar 04, 2011 3:26 pm
Location: Durham, NC
Motorcycle: 1987 GL1200A Aspencade

1987 GL1200A choke cable replacement

Postby Scotsman » Fri Mar 04, 2011 5:02 pm



I'm a new member and this website has been very helpful. I'm hoping someone can help me solve a small problem, or point me in the right direction. I'm trying to replace the choke cable on my 1987 GL1200A and I can not seem to get the air cleaner box off. Three of the four screws used to mount the air cleaner housing onto the intake manifold just turn, they will not back out. It's a metal screw and must screw into some type of metal sleeve pressed into the plastic base. One of the four screws comes out easily. The others just spin. Any suggestions as to how can I secure the base of the screw and remove the screws without breaking the plastic base? Everything I've referenced indicates I need to remove the air cleaner box and raise the carburator to access and replace the choke cable on my machine. Is there any other way to replace the choke cable on this machine? This sites DIY focuses on the 1100's choke cable replacement which is much more accessible than mine. I lose track of my choke cable once it passes behind the radiator. Can anyone help, or point me in the right direction, maybe someone else has encountered this problem?
Thanks



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artgrantz
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Re: 1987 GL1200A choke cable replacement

Postby artgrantz » Fri Mar 04, 2011 7:56 pm

Whenever I run into a situation where a screw is in an insert that is loose and spins with the screw I try slipping a thin blade of a screwdriver or knife under the screw head and twist it to apply upward pressure. This may help bind the insert and allow the screw to come out.

Can't help with the clutch cable but I am sure there are others here who can.

Scotsman
Posts: 6
Joined: Fri Mar 04, 2011 3:26 pm
Location: Durham, NC
Motorcycle: 1987 GL1200A Aspencade

Re: 1987 GL1200A choke cable replacement

Postby Scotsman » Sat Mar 05, 2011 4:52 pm

Thanks Art,
I'll give your suggestion a try. I'm not sure what to do if I can't remove air cleaner box, maybe cut the cable and splice my new one to the old attachment on the carburator, which seems to be fine.
My problem is that the attachment on the handlebar broke. So I tied the cable in a knot and reseated it. Now I'm never sure if the choke is completly closed because the old cable stretched or is partially open because the cable is now shorter.

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alanc1100
Posts: 71
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Location: Lakewood, Wa.
Motorcycle: 1986 GL1200A Aspencade

Re: 1987 GL1200A choke cable replacement

Postby alanc1100 » Mon Mar 07, 2011 10:04 am

Hi Scotsman, I would hate to give you bad advice on the spinning insert issue. But, one way you could get around that is to go in from the front. You will have to remove the radiator, thermostat cover and the panel separating the cooling system from the carbs. Once there, you can get access to the clamp that holds the choke cable in. That is how I got to mine. Did not have to remove the carbs. This job is very labor intensive, so plan on several hours for this job alone. If you plan on keeping the bike for any appreciable amount of time, get a repair manual for your bike. That is a must. Be aware though, when going in a different direction like that, you might uncover other issues that you may not be prepared for. Good luck with yours.

Scotsman
Posts: 6
Joined: Fri Mar 04, 2011 3:26 pm
Location: Durham, NC
Motorcycle: 1987 GL1200A Aspencade

Re: 1987 GL1200A choke cable replacement

Postby Scotsman » Tue Mar 08, 2011 11:42 am

Hi alanc1100, I appreciate your input, I was there. This is a winter project. I stripped down the front end to replace the timing belts, radiator hoses and coolant. I considered going after the choke cable through the front but I didn’t because the panel looks as though it’s secured using an engine mounting bolt, at least on the 87 1200A. I didn’t want to mess with an engine to frame mounting point. To many potential complications. Was that one of your complications, or was it no big deal?
I have a pretty good reference book, a Haynes, which I prefer over the Clymer. Plus the information on this site, which has been very helpful.
I’m going to continue working on the insert, hopefully, worst case, I’ll pop it out and have to reseat it with an epoxy.
What other issues might I encounter if I decide to go in from the front? Like anything we do, removing the radiator will be much easier the second time. Did you replace the thermostat or just remove the cover?
Last edited by Scotsman on Tue Mar 08, 2011 5:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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starfleetengineer
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Re: 1987 GL1200A choke cable replacement

Postby starfleetengineer » Tue Mar 08, 2011 2:48 pm

I ran into that problem on my 84 gl1200 I. I tried every trick in the book. I finaly got my saws-all out and cut the screw. I put the blade inbetween the lid and base. I wedged a small chisel in there to hold a space open. I haven't found away to replace the incerts, so It might come down to a new/used air box. Be sure to blow the air chamber out real well!! The carb screens will stop the big stuff, but not the smaller. If you find a better Idea, try it.. Couldn't hurt.
How many times do I have to tell ya,,, The right tool for the right job!

Scotsman
Posts: 6
Joined: Fri Mar 04, 2011 3:26 pm
Location: Durham, NC
Motorcycle: 1987 GL1200A Aspencade

Re: 1987 GL1200A choke cable replacement

Postby Scotsman » Tue Mar 08, 2011 5:27 pm

Starfleetengineer, I guess I was hoping it wouldn’t come to that. Usually when I’ve decided to break out a hammer or the saw-z-all it's time to rethink my goals. But thanks for the suggestion, I'll keep it in mind.

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alanc1100
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Motorcycle: 1986 GL1200A Aspencade

Re: 1987 GL1200A choke cable replacement

Postby alanc1100 » Wed Mar 09, 2011 6:30 am

Yes, the panel is attached to engine supports. And, yes, I had to remove them. My only regret is when I put it back in, I tightened the right side bolt a little too much. I got it tight, thought it needed a little more, then I felt it starting to give and then I stopped. I know that I have started to strip it and now I don't want to have to remove it and deal with a heli-coil or some other fix. Regardless, as long as you don't remove the left front upper frame piece that has to come out if you pull the engine, the engine will not move more than a few tenths of an inch. If it does, just put a floor jack under it with something soft on top and support the engine that way. Believe me, it was worth pulling the panel to get to the cable. At least it was for me.




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