85 GL1200 hard to find neutral. Loss of detents on downshift

[peppilepew]

My machine has a heel to toe shifter. I know neutral can be troublesome on these. Some say the engine oil needs to be Honda. I am losing detents on downshifts. Upshifts are fine. What in the case is causing the problem and how much work is it to correct? This for the meantime appears to be the last issue other than replacing the caliper slide boots.

[virgilmobile]

Before you jump into the transmission,Look close at the linkages o the shifter.Sloppy , worn pivot points are magnified the long levers.The arm going into the transmission doesn't move very much,and a loose bolt on it's arm can cause a poor feel at the toe.

[peppilepew]

I have the clymers manual in front of me. What I see is a ratcheting cam that that is driven by the spindle-shift lever-gearshift arm-positive stopper-gearshift drum joint. Upshifts are fine so I am thinking something is either bent or worn. I can downshift while moving by tapping the lever quickly as to throw the gear into place. It maybe both situations. I know there is a great amount of knowledge on this site. Being an 85 with 59+K what is the most likely scenario? I want to have all the parts here before dismantling. I can rebuild a worn pivot with a welder if need be. Any recommendations from those with prior experience?

[peppilepew]

Everything is tight. Some wobble in spindle.

[virgilmobile]

Everything is tight. Some wobble in spindle.

Are you referring to where the shifting lever is attached to the splined shaft sticking out of the side of the engine?
If so,Get that clamped tight.That shaft only moves 5 degrees or so.If it were original equipment,a 10" lever attached to it only lifts 1.5 inches up or down .If its worn the travel gets worse.
With the original lever,the feel of the lever is very firm from center to engage,up and down.If it doesn't feel the same,the "shift claw"may be worn.

[peppilepew]

Some wobble in shaft going through the case. very minor. I am thinking a friction point wear problem also. You called it a claw? Can it be repaired by a weld buildup?

[virgilmobile]

Here's a pix of the assembly I refer to.The "Book" calls for the case to be split to remove it.You can at least see it and touch the entire mechanism with the front cover removed with the engine in the bike.

It would be difficult at best(nothing is impossible)to tack weld on the paw and reshape it in the engine.It's a pretty tight fit.
It would be better to look for yourself to see what may be bad and how much your comfortable with tackling.

[peppilepew]

I think the claw is the problem. Ebay has a complete shifter parts kit. The claw may be removable from the lever arm without removing the shaft and engine. I am going to order the package to see before exploring. Right now I need to get my motorcycle licence. NH is retarded thinking a new rider can maneuver their test course with a full size bike. Cones were spaced near wheel base of this wing. Thanks cliff,

[virgilmobile]

The shifting arm and claw are pressed on and held there by flaring the stud.It's not bolted on.A grinder would take it off the shaft.Here's the best pix I can get.

[peppilepew]

Replacing the claw looks possible by like you said grinding the penned over pivot and tack welding it back in place. I just have to hope that is the problem.

[virgilmobile]

I guess you'll know as soon as you play with the mechanism to see whats mucked up.Not to question your competence,but if you weld the part back on,don't ground on the engine block,ground the welder to the part your welding on.Welding current can damage the bearings or any moving part if it has to flow through it to get to the arc point.

[peppilepew]

Is this a common problem?

[virgilmobile]

You mean welding errors or shifting problems?

[peppilepew]

It could be both! LMAO.

[peppilepew]

Thank you for reminding me that an explicit ground to the object being welding is critical. I learned that the hard way some time ago welding pinion rollers in planetary gear assys. I am thinking that replacing the claw is more practical. Welding the claw contact point would make a durable hard surface less prone to future wear but I would need a spec to go by. I purchased the shift assy from ebay. I hope its good. The pivot will be the easiest to weld in place.

[peppilepew]

I found that this engine at 60k is going through about 1 quart per K miles. I refilled the oil and added some slippery lube guard anti-shudder and the shifting has gotten better. Still not right but livable. The parts came in from ebay and look good. Riding season so short up here in the north i may just leave the fix for our long winter that will be upon us before we know it.