89 gl 1500 fork seal and bushing replacement


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mothership
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89 gl 1500 fork seal and bushing replacement

Postby mothership » Mon Jun 04, 2012 1:13 pm



I'm thinking its time to at least replace the fork oil again. The seals aren't leaking but with 110,000 miles I probably should rebuild both forks.
I had Progressive springs installed at about 30k. Is the re-build something I should tackle myself or leave it to a dealer. I am confident I can do the job but I never have before. Any good DIY articles about this and what kind of special tools are involved



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virgilmobile
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Re: 89 gl 1500 fork seal and bushing replacement

Postby virgilmobile » Mon Jun 04, 2012 2:38 pm

It's about the same as the other bikes.A bit more plastic.
I did mine without removing the fork tubes,just the slides.
The worst part is putting the caps back on.I made a long "T: handle wrench to do it and it takes all my weight to compress the spring back in.
Tools are just the common ones plus a good set of metric allen wrenches ot :T: handles.
I used a split PVC coupler to drive the seal back in

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mothership
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Re: 89 gl 1500 fork seal and bushing replacement

Postby mothership » Mon Jun 04, 2012 9:04 pm

I know the caps are going to be a B---- to put back in I helped the guy who put the springs in. I'm a big guy, 350 lbs, pretty much ride by myself any suggestions on what weight fork oil to run.

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virgilmobile
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Re: 89 gl 1500 fork seal and bushing replacement

Postby virgilmobile » Tue Jun 05, 2012 7:39 am

Fork oil......
Understand first that whatever you use will not affect how well the bike supports the weight.
It's purpose is to dampen the downward travel speed of the slides.
Thicker oil and it will ride "stiff" ,really thin like and it tends to bounce and not "hold" the road.
I generally suggest factory OEM fork oil,or type F atf fluid.Its about 10w.
Some even go as far as custom mixing there own oils to achieve the 'perfect' blend of weight.
I was never that anal.I'm not racing it.I ride it.

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virgilmobile
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Re: 89 gl 1500 fork seal and bushing replacement

Postby virgilmobile » Tue Jun 05, 2012 7:43 am

One other thing too...Before i put the caps on,I leave the spring out and set the cap in place...turn it till it threads in...back it out till the threads release...mark the cap and tube for alignment.
When you go to compress the spring with the cap,there won't be any guessing where it will start to catch at.

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dingdong
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Re: 89 gl 1500 fork seal and bushing replacement

Postby dingdong » Tue Jun 05, 2012 9:04 am

Progressive recommends 15 wt fork oil. But like Virgil I can't tell the difference between 15 and 10wt.
Tom

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mothership
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Re: 89 gl 1500 fork seal and bushing replacement

Postby mothership » Tue Jun 05, 2012 10:21 am

Great tip about aligning the caps before putting them on.

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Re: 89 gl 1500 fork seal and bushing replacement

Postby cbx4evr » Tue Jun 05, 2012 1:15 pm

Google - goldwing fork removal tool or search some of the other threads on the subject here.

I built a tool from scrap lumber that clamps on the fork and allows easy & safe removal and installation of the fork caps.
"It´s a friggen motorcycle, it´s not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you s**t your pants every now and then. "

rudyzzr
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Re: 89 gl 1500 fork seal and bushing replacement

Postby rudyzzr » Tue Jun 05, 2012 2:59 pm

part number for original oil Honda is 08208-99922

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Bamaeagle
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Re: 89 gl 1500 fork seal and bushing replacement

Postby Bamaeagle » Wed Jun 06, 2012 11:20 am

Here is a link to a site on how to build your own fork spring tool.

http://bobsold.goldwingfacts.com/ForkSp ... lSpecs.pdf
JERRY

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omnione
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Re: 89 gl 1500 fork seal and bushing replacement

Postby omnione » Thu Jun 07, 2012 11:57 am

Hi, I did this job recently and did not remove the springs or the fork legs (stanchions) from the bike. Take a look here viewtopic.php?f=6&t=10868 Good luck.

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Re: 89 gl 1500 fork seal and bushing replacement

Postby omnione » Thu Jun 07, 2012 12:20 pm

Just had another thought before you take the bottom legs off, make sure your bike has the air forks fitted or the method I used will not work.

I was lucky my bike had the air forks, it was easy to top up the oil level after the job was done with the little air valves removed. If your bike does not have the air valves then the only way to replace the oil is to remove the top caps which I understand are under a lot more pressure with progressive springs than with the standard ones.

Before doing my job I did remove one cap and it was a real struggle the get it back on again. ( I was stood on top of the bike with a T handle and a 12" extension and it took all my weight to compress the spring enough to get the top cap started again) If your bike has had progressive springs fitted then I think you will almost certainly need some sort of compressor like the other guys on here have been advising to remove and replace the caps.




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