GL1500 LED's


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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Nobby1
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GL1500 LED's

Postby Nobby1 » Tue Nov 13, 2012 9:08 pm



I've have read nearly all posts concerning installing LED's on Wings, but knowing nothing about them beforehand, I'm nearly as confused as I was previously. Not only do I not know the difference between a T3 Bulb & a T4, but where does the 194 vs 168 fit in, and what does 2x3.4w 6.8w refer to?

Does anyone know where I can find basic info on these type of questions? I've read the step by step instructions from Wing Admin on fitting resisters onto certain lights, but that brings more questions of the same type, namely when do I need them & what types? I know it's a lot to ask, but has anyone ever seen a list where each bulb is listed, it's location, # needed, brightness, shape, degrees of illumination, color, place purchased, etc? I'd like to replace all the bulbs I can this winter so knowing beforehand would save lots of time, shipping, removing of panels, etc.



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Re: GL1500 LED's

Postby vtxcandyred » Tue Nov 13, 2012 9:52 pm

Nobby1 wrote:I've have read nearly all posts concerning installing LED's on Wings, but knowing nothing about them beforehand, I'm nearly as confused as I was previously. Not only do I not know the difference between a T3 Bulb & a T4, but where does the 194 vs 168 fit in, and what does 2x3.4w 6.8w refer to?

Does anyone know where I can find basic info on these type of questions? I've read the step by step instructions from Wing Admin on fitting resisters onto certain lights, but that brings more questions of the same type, namely when do I need them & what types? I know it's a lot to ask, but has anyone ever seen a list where each bulb is listed, it's location, # needed, brightness, shape, degrees of illumination, color, place purchased, etc? I'd like to replace all the bulbs I can this winter so knowing beforehand would save lots of time, shipping, removing of panels, etc.

When you get it figured out and in dummy language let me know. I surely can't figure it out. I've read about all I can find on led's and am still confused. I'd love to convert some of the easier access bulbs to led then maybe I could try the more difficult ones. I'd be no good using resisters and the like.

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Re: GL1500 LED's

Postby Mag » Tue Nov 13, 2012 11:38 pm

I am good following directions (well, my wife might not agree), but I can say this.....putting in the LED lights, so far, is really easy. Granted, I am not good at the soldering/resister thing yet, and I will do those later, but the directions of replacing the normal bulbs with the LEDs, it is like ..... replacing bulbs. Yup, as easy as that. I just followed the directions and went from there, AND IT WORKS! (stupid grin on my face).

Would be good to get an understanding of the #s so I can learn what I am doing, but the directions on this site are really good to give directions on what to do.

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Re: GL1500 LED's

Postby WingAdmin » Wed Nov 14, 2012 10:45 am

Nobby1 wrote:I've have read nearly all posts concerning installing LED's on Wings, but knowing nothing about them beforehand, I'm nearly as confused as I was previously. Not only do I not know the difference between a T3 Bulb & a T4, but where does the 194 vs 168 fit in, and what does 2x3.4w 6.8w refer to?

Does anyone know where I can find basic info on these type of questions? I've read the step by step instructions from Wing Admin on fitting resisters onto certain lights, but that brings more questions of the same type, namely when do I need them & what types? I know it's a lot to ask, but has anyone ever seen a list where each bulb is listed, it's location, # needed, brightness, shape, degrees of illumination, color, place purchased, etc? I'd like to replace all the bulbs I can this winter so knowing beforehand would save lots of time, shipping, removing of panels, etc.


Unfortunately there is no simple answer. There are so many different bulb types, and there is very little standardization. The same bulb from different manufacturers can have many different types. Some of them describe the base, some describe the size of the globe (bulb glass enclosure), some describe the wattage...and more. You'll commonly see a bulb for sale online, and it will say, "can replace..." followed by a list of 10 or 20 different bulb types, all using different naming standards. What a mess.

194 and 168 bulbs are typically miniature "wedge" base bulbs, 12 volts, low wattage. They can also be referred to as T10.

To make things even more complicated, Honda, in its parts manuals, refers to bulb types only by their electrical capacity - 3.4w, 6.8w, etc. - the "w" is watts, just like a 60-watt lightbulb you would use in your home. Most of the Honda bulbs are wedge-type bulbs, but the wattage rating that Honda gives you tells you nothing about the size of the bulb, wedge base width, globe size, etc.

So really, the only way to do it (and the way I did it) is to take the thing apart, pull out each bulb, measure it, and use those measurements to identify the bulb and a replacement LED that will fit in its place. Or...read the instructions of someone who already did it for you, and follow their list. :)

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Re: GL1500 LED's

Postby Nobby1 » Thu Nov 22, 2012 5:07 pm

Hey everybody, thanks for the help.....Hopefully just one more question before I finish. I put in the SuperbrightLEDs 1157-R18-T in the Trunk tail/brake lights, the 1157-R18-T for the Saddlebag tail/brake lights, the 1157-A45-T for Front Turn signals, & the 1156-A45-T in the trunk turn signals. The turn signals flash really quickly now. I know I need to install resistors or diodes, but don't know the difference between them, how many I need, or what power (if there is such a thing). Any chance I could get someone to post a link to their site for the correct item? I would greatly appreciate it!

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Re: GL1500 LED's

Postby WingAdmin » Fri Nov 23, 2012 11:49 am

Nobby1 wrote:Hey everybody, thanks for the help.....Hopefully just one more question before I finish. I put in the SuperbrightLEDs 1157-R18-T in the Trunk tail/brake lights, the 1157-R18-T for the Saddlebag tail/brake lights, the 1157-A45-T for Front Turn signals, & the 1156-A45-T in the trunk turn signals. The turn signals flash really quickly now. I know I need to install resistors or diodes, but don't know the difference between them, how many I need, or what power (if there is such a thing). Any chance I could get someone to post a link to their site for the correct item? I would greatly appreciate it!


You can buy lots of expensive "load balancing devices" and so on, but when it comes down to it, all it is, is a high power resistor.

I used two of these: http://www.amazon.com/100watt-Resistanc ... B005FJBR94


One for the left turn signal, one for the right. They are connected in parallel with the turn signal bulbs (one lead is connected to the +12V side of the turn signal bulb, the other lead is connected to ground).

These things get HOT. They are sinking a fair amount of current. They need to be strapped to a frame member on the bike, away from the plastic, in order to sink away some of the heat. I used two stainless worm screw clamps on each one to strap them to the frame underneath the seat, next to the side bags, one on each side. They work very well there.

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Re: GL1500 LED's

Postby WingAdmin » Sat Nov 24, 2012 1:43 pm

Nobby asked me this in a PM, and I think the answer would benefit everyone?

Nobby1 wrote:By Parallel, do you mean to tap into the main power supply to each of the 3 Left & 3 Right turn bulbs & connect this to one end of the resistor, the other end of the resister to a ground? Or should it be the battery? How about gauge of the wire?


Find the wire that goes to the turn signal, that flashes the bulb. On some lights, there will be a running light wire, which is a constant +12V when the ignition is on, as well as a wire that carries a flashing +12V when the turn signals (or hazard lights) are turned on. The flashing one is the one you want.

Connect a wire to that wire that carries the flashing +12V to the bulb. I used (and recommend) a 14 gauge wire. So you will "T" off that wire - it will still go to the bulb, but you will have an additional wire connected to that wire.

Your new wire will go to the resistor. The other end of the resistor will be connected to ground (a good, quality ground).

Sorry for my terrible drawing/handwriting skills. :)

Wiring in load resistor
Wiring in load resistor

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Re: GL1500 LED's

Postby wingpilot08 » Sun Nov 25, 2012 11:22 am

WingAdmin wrote:
Nobby1 wrote:Hey everybody, thanks for the help.....Hopefully just one more question before I finish. I put in the SuperbrightLEDs 1157-R18-T in the Trunk tail/brake lights, the 1157-R18-T for the Saddlebag tail/brake lights, the 1157-A45-T for Front Turn signals, & the 1156-A45-T in the trunk turn signals. The turn signals flash really quickly now. I know I need to install resistors or diodes, but don't know the difference between them, how many I need, or what power (if there is such a thing). Any chance I could get someone to post a link to their site for the correct item? I would greatly appreciate it!


You can buy lots of expensive "load balancing devices" and so on, but when it comes down to it, all it is, is a high power resistor.

I used two of these: http://www.amazon.com/100watt-Resistanc ... B005FJBR94
41nKjOy7ttL._SL500_AA300_.jpg


One for the left turn signal, one for the right. They are connected in parallel with the turn signal bulbs (one lead is connected to the +12V side of the turn signal bulb, the other lead is connected to ground).

These things get HOT. They are sinking a fair amount of current. They need to be strapped to a frame member on the bike, away from the plastic, in order to sink away some of the heat. I used two stainless worm screw clamps on each one to strap them to the frame underneath the seat, next to the side bags, one on each side. They work very well there.


The other way to correct the "quick flashing" due to the replacement of the standard light to LEDs is to replace the flasher unit to one that supports LED's. That way you don't need the "load balancing device".

http://www.customdynamics.com/trick_flasher.htm
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Re: GL1500 LED's

Postby WingAdmin » Sun Nov 25, 2012 10:19 pm

wingpilot96 wrote:The other way to correct the "quick flashing" due to the replacement of the standard light to LEDs is to replace the flasher unit to one that supports LED's. That way you don't need the "load balancing device".

http://www.customdynamics.com/trick_flasher.htm


Yes, but....doing this on a GL1500 will disable your automatic turn signal cancel function. If you wish to keep your automatic turn signal cancel, then the load resistor is the only way to go.

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Re: GL1500 LED's

Postby Sempai » Fri Nov 30, 2012 11:00 pm

Another option for load equalization:
I have used these load resistors on many bikes. They cure the hyper-blink problem and they don't get hot enough to cause any damage. More than a few times, I have sticky-taped them directly to the plastic body parts on numerous sportbikes. Haven't melted any plastics, nor burned up any wires. Have not had any complaints from any customers.
I cannot say this enough...the instructions tell you to mount them to METAL because they get "HOT," but I have not had any problems with this. I think this is due mostly to most peoples' habit of not leaving the turn signals on for extended periods of time.

http://store.ijdmtoy.com/50W-Load-Resis ... sistor.htm
Last edited by Sempai on Fri Nov 30, 2012 11:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: GL1500 LED's

Postby sparrowhawwk » Fri Nov 30, 2012 11:07 pm

Just wondering about adding the load resistors. If you do that are you not replacing the load draw you hoped to reduce by installing the LED bulbs?

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Re: GL1500 LED's

Postby Sempai » Fri Nov 30, 2012 11:10 pm

Yeah, you're biting yourself in the butt there, but the LEDs will invariably last quite a bit longer than any incandescent bulb that used to be there.
I cannot say this enough...the instructions tell you to mount them to METAL because they get "HOT," but I have not had any problems with this. I think this is due mostly to most peoples' habit of not leaving the turn signals on for extended periods of time.
...BUT, you can see in this pic where I stuck two of these resistors on a Honda CBR600RR. For those of you that don't know what you're looking at, that is the inside of the tail plastic. I did that bike almost 3 years ago, and to this day, the turn signals are working just fine and the plastic has not discolored, warped, or melted in any way.
Keep the rubber side down.

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Re: GL1500 LED's

Postby sparrowhawwk » Fri Nov 30, 2012 11:32 pm

Sempai wrote:Yeah, you're biting yourself in the butt there, but the LEDs will invariably last quite a bit longer than any incandescent bulb that used to be there.


Thanks. Wasn't sure about that one. Actually I like LED's mainly for their brightness. Run them on my truck and plan to put them in the GL. Of course being able to run more lights with less draw is a good thing. Actually how long they last is not a factor really either. Fact is I've run the same incandescent bulbs for years with very few changes. I think the problem with bulb failure is the fact most are almost as old as the bikes they are in. :lol:

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Re: GL1500 LED's

Postby WingAdmin » Sat Dec 01, 2012 1:50 am

Sempai wrote:Yeah, you're biting yourself in the butt there, but the LEDs will invariably last quite a bit longer than any incandescent bulb that used to be there.
I cannot say this enough...the instructions tell you to mount them to METAL because they get "HOT," but I have not had any problems with this. I think this is due mostly to most peoples' habit of not leaving the turn signals on for extended periods of time.
...BUT, you can see in this pic where I stuck two of these resistors on a Honda CBR600RR. For those of you that don't know what you're looking at, that is the inside of the tail plastic. I did that bike almost 3 years ago, and to this day, the turn signals are working just fine and the plastic has not discolored, warped, or melted in any way.
50W-LED-Load-Resistors_6103.jpg


I really, seriously would not mount them to plastic on the Goldwing. Definitely mount them to the metal frame. I used an infrared thermometer on mine before I mounted them to the frame, and after having the turn signals on for two minutes, they were at over 200 degrees. This WILL melt ABS!

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Re: GL1500 LED's

Postby Sempai » Sat Dec 01, 2012 9:04 am

WingAdmin wrote:I really, seriously would not mount them to plastic on the Goldwing. Definitely mount them to the metal frame. I used an infrared thermometer on mine before I mounted them to the frame, and after having the turn signals on for two minutes, they were at over 200 degrees. This WILL melt ABS!

This here is a very good bit of information. Take heed as the 200 degrees W.Admin measured is definitely enough to warp the plastics. I'm wondering if there is a major difference here between the resistors he posted and the resistors that I posted? The ones he posted are consuming 100W while the ones I posted are only doing 50W, this is likely the reason for the major temperature differences, though I must admit, I never measured the temps on the ones I used...other than to hold them in my hand while the turn signal was activated. I think I'm gonna hafta investigate this further. Otherwise, there is yet another really fantastic option, though it costs a few more bucks. There are many different inline load equalizers offered, such as the one I linked below. Cost-wise, this very acceptable, installing one of these will eliminate any concern for melting plastics or wires in the area.
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/3/13/123/55398/ITEM/Kuryakyn-Load-Equalizers.aspx?WT.ac=SLIsearch
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Re: GL1500 LED's

Postby zephyr2nv » Sat Dec 01, 2012 10:46 am

It would be great if someone posted a list of all the part numbers they ordered from SuperBrightLEDs. That way I would only have to take everything apart once. Would be a great 'sticky' in the 1500 section.
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Re: GL1500 LED's

Postby WingAdmin » Sat Dec 01, 2012 1:30 pm

Sempai wrote:I'm wondering if there is a major difference here between the resistors he posted and the resistors that I posted? The ones he posted are consuming 100W while the ones I posted are only doing 50W, this is likely the reason for the major temperature differences, though I must admit, I never measured the temps on the ones I used...other than to hold them in my hand while the turn signal was activated. I think I'm gonna hafta investigate this further. Otherwise, there is yet another really fantastic option, though it costs a few more bucks. There are many different inline load equalizers offered, such as the one I linked below. Cost-wise, this very acceptable, installing one of these will eliminate any concern for melting plastics or wires in the area.


The 100 watts is the maximum amount of power the resistor is rated for, not how much it actually draws. How much it draws is dependent on the actual resistance value (in ohms).

When I made the calculation for the ohm value for my resistors, I took into account that each resistor had to replace the current draw of four light bulbs - the front turn signal, dash indicator, and two rear turn signals. I added up the wattage of all of those bulbs, subtracted the (much lower) current draw of the replacement LEDs, then made a calculation to figure out what the proper resistance would be. Your sport bike might have a different resistance, drawing less power (and thereby producing less heat) as it has less bulbs to replace.

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Re: GL1500 LED's

Postby Nobby1 » Sat Dec 01, 2012 7:09 pm

OK, in my best KISS terminology (Keep It Simple - Stupid), here is a complete list of all the lights I've replaced and the SuperbrightLEDs part numbers for each of them. (Thought you'd like my terminology vtxcandyred & zephyr2nv)

Hope this helps everyone wanting to change their stock lights to LED's


Location Qty Color Part # Cost ea

Trunk Tail/Brake Lights - 2 Red - 1157-R18-T $17.95 ea

Saddlebag Tail/Brake Lights - Same as Trunk Tail/Brake Lights

Ft Turn Signal - 2 Yellow - 1157-A45-T $24.95 ea

Trunk Turn Signal - 2 Yellow - 1156-A45-T $24.95 ea

Front Position Lights - 2 Cool White - WLED-CWHP15-TAC - $6.95 ea

Side Fairing Lights - 2 Yellow - WLED-A4-90 - $1.59 ea

Trunk Middle Running Lights - 2 Red - 74-RHP3 - $3.49 ea

Trunk License Bulb - 1 Cool White - WLED-WHP5 - $5.95 ea

Resisters - 2 - 3.3 Ohm, 100 W $5.27 ea (Amazon.com)

+ app 5 ft of 14 ga wire

I have not yet replaced the 6 bulbs on either side of the trunk yet, but plan on doing these. Probably the same as the license plate bulb, only red. I'll call them first to confirm.

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Re: GL1500 LED's

Postby zephyr2nv » Tue Dec 04, 2012 3:37 am

That's great, now I just need to figure out what LEDs I need for the dash and radio.
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Re: GL1500 LED's

Postby wingpilot08 » Tue Dec 04, 2012 8:13 am

zephyr2nv wrote:That's great, now I just need to figure out what LEDs I need for the dash and radio.

For the dash LED's go to superbrightleds.com and order the following:
These are the four main light for the tach and speedo... thee are other lights in the assembly, but these are the main four.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/194-led-bulb-4-led-wedge-base/198/
or
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/194-led-bulb-6-led-wedge-base/200/

for the radio I used 5mm LED's and soldered on a 480Ohm resistor to reduce the load.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/component-leds/5mm-white-led-30-degree-viewing-angle-18000-mcd/256/1183/

You need to make sure that on the componet LEDs that you have the polarity correct...the longer leg of the LED is "+"
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Re: GL1500 LED's

Postby zephyr2nv » Tue Dec 04, 2012 12:25 pm

I was thinking about using these in the radio, but I'm not sure what size I need.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/instrument-cluster-gauge/filter/Cross_Reference_Number,NEO3,21,241:
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Re: GL1500 LED's

Postby wingpilot08 » Tue Dec 04, 2012 1:15 pm

zephyr2nv wrote:I was thinking about using these in the radio, but I'm not sure what size I need.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/instrument-cluster-gauge/filter/Cross_Reference_Number,NEO3,21,241:


I hadn't seen them before and it may be the way to go...you would have to remove the radio and do some measurements to be sure. I used the 5mm component LED and used resistors and rewired everything. Those bulbs..if they fit would be a LOT easier!!

Look at this way..it requires 3 of the "screw base bulb" to be replaced on the radio...take a stab and order three 5mm bulbs on the page. They don't have white bulbs..so I'd go with the light blue version (cheapest version) ...only about $7.00 + shipping...might be worth it! If they fit and work...tell the world!! The other two bulbs, I'd just use component LED & resistors
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Re: GL1500 LED's

Postby E* ENGINEER » Thu Jan 03, 2013 1:53 am

2x3.4w means 2 bulbs, each using 3.4 watts

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Re: GL1500 LED's

Postby Happytrails » Tue Sep 24, 2013 6:37 pm

Nobby1 wrote:OK, in my best KISS terminology (Keep It Simple - Stupid), here is a complete list of all the lights I've replaced and the SuperbrightLEDs part numbers for each of them. (Thought you'd like my terminology vtxcandyred & zephyr2nv)

Hope this helps everyone wanting to change their stock lights to LED's


Location Qty Color Part # Cost ea

Trunk Tail/Brake Lights - 2 Red - 1157-R18-T $17.95 ea

Saddlebag Tail/Brake Lights - Same as Trunk Tail/Brake Lights

Ft Turn Signal - 2 Yellow - 1157-A45-T $24.95 ea

Trunk Turn Signal - 2 Yellow - 1156-A45-T $24.95 ea

Front Position Lights - 2 Cool White - WLED-CWHP15-TAC - $6.95 ea

Side Fairing Lights - 2 Yellow - WLED-A4-90 - $1.59 ea

Trunk Middle Running Lights - 2 Red - 74-RHP3 - $3.49 ea

Trunk License Bulb - 1 Cool White - WLED-WHP5 - $5.95 ea

Resisters - 2 - 3.3 Ohm, 100 W $5.27 ea (Amazon.com)

+ app 5 ft of 14 ga wire

I have not yet replaced the 6 bulbs on either side of the trunk yet, but plan on doing these. Probably the same as the license plate bulb, only red. I'll call them first to confirm.


Just in case anybody finds this thread useful like me I'd like to add that I put the 6 bulb saddlebag lights on from Show Chrome as well as the 3 bulb harness from Show Chrome (bought everything from CycleMax). And they use the same 74-xHP3 bulbs as the Trunk middle running lights. So in all I ended up ordering 20 of those to replace the regular bulbs. I did it mostly to reduce the stress on the electrical system. Seemed like a lot of lights to be adding.

Also I added the side fairing marker lights. And I put the Show Chrome turn signal kits on front and back. Looks great with them alternating. I think I'm going to use the regular bulbs in the turn signals rather than putting in a load balancer for them. Anyways just thought I'd contribute a little since Nobby was kind enough to help me get a start on ordering LED's. Thanks!
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Re: GL1500 LED's

Postby Happytrails » Wed Sep 25, 2013 6:37 pm

Maybe its just me and that my bike is old but the LED's were a lot brighter. I left a couple old bulbs in and put in a couple LED's in the tail lights and they were much brighter.


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