Wing question


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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wingrooky63
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Wing question

Postby wingrooky63 » Mon Feb 11, 2013 12:03 pm



I just bought a Honda gold-wing GL1500 1998. Trying to get the cornering lights to work. every time, i turn on the key, the 15 amp fuse blows within 5 minuets. cant seem to find any shorts, anyone have an idea of what might be the problem?



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virgilmobile
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Re: Wing question

Postby virgilmobile » Mon Feb 11, 2013 4:07 pm

I have the schematic downloaded from this site...
Can you tell me which fuse blows?
When you turn on the key,do all the marker lights work and when the fuse blows,what lights go off.
Does your bike have the saddle bag strip that light up?
They may be Electroluminescent type.There is a module in the rear right side that can be unplugged.I think it's behind the tail light housing.It could be shorted.
Because it takes a little while to blow the fuse,expect to find a short at the furthest point from the switch(usually the rear),a pinched wire to the frame,trailer plug or a add on lamp that is drawing more current than the circuit can handle.
Example...If you replace a single low power(4 watt) marker lamp with a 55 watt lamp the current draw jumps from around 0.3 amp to near 5 amp.Use a couple of these and you easily exceed the 15 amp fuse.

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robb
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Motorcycle: 1989 Honda GL1500 Aspencade

Re: Wing question

Postby robb » Mon Feb 11, 2013 9:44 pm

True cornering lamps should only work with turn signals. If they burn with switch they have been rewired. Might try a 20 amp fuse and see if it holds, if nothing more than for testing.

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RoadRogue
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Motorcycle: 1997 1500SE

Re: Wing question

Postby RoadRogue » Mon Feb 11, 2013 11:20 pm

DO NOT put a higher amp fuse in than is specified for any reason , ever. That fuse is there to protect the wireing from burning up .
Obviously the load on the circuit is too high. This may be due to higher Watt bulbs being installed or corrosion in various conections is causing things to heat up and draw more power. Electrical problems can be a bear to sort out, start out with the simple things first. Pull all the bulbs and check them for wattage , make sure all connections are clean and tight. Keep us posted 8-)
Ride safe, Todd
Over night campers welcome

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RBGERSON
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Motorcycle: 98 SE GL 1500
had every year from 75 to 83

Re: Wing question

Postby RBGERSON » Tue Feb 12, 2013 9:06 am

Those lights were only designed to be on for a few seconds during a turn..maybe that's the problem..5 minutes???
HAD LOTS OF GOLDWING 75-83
NOW INTO 1500'S..RIDING A 1998 SE

FAIR WINDS,
RB

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RoadRogue
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Re: Wing question

Postby RoadRogue » Tue Feb 12, 2013 11:22 pm

I have my lower turn lights set to stay on all the time , never had a problem with fuses or relays. Im still running the stock bulbs in them though. They dont throw enough light for me to see by but they sure make me more visible to oncoming traffic 8-)
Ride safe, Todd
Over night campers welcome

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ka4yqi
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Re: Wing question

Postby ka4yqi » Wed Feb 13, 2013 6:36 am

The 98 model on a SE model light are on all the time. They do not come on with the turn signals. It use different bulbs than cornering lights. Hope you are able to find whats blowing the fuse.

Steve

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cbx4evr
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Re: Wing question

Postby cbx4evr » Wed Feb 13, 2013 10:01 am

As was mentioned the 1998 - 2000 Goldwing "cornering lights" are driving lights that come on and stay on with ignition.

Follow the suggestions as stated in the 2nd post. I suspect a bare wire or an accessory splice job.

There is also an excellent tutorial on this site to convert the bulbs to LED. That would take some of the load off.
"It´s a friggen motorcycle, it´s not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you s**t your pants every now and then. "

wingrooky63
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Re: Wing question

Postby wingrooky63 » Wed Feb 13, 2013 2:00 pm

I installed the LED lights as directed in the instructions for ( replacing corning lights part 2) Everything went well. I had no lights there when i purchased the bike in December 2012. When i tested the lights, i had no power going to ether side. I spliced into the marker lights on both sides to get power to the cornering lights. I tested again and they all worked. It started blowing the 15 amp fuse after that. When the fuse blows, i also loose my marker lights, fuel Gage, and temp Gage.

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WingAdmin
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Re: Wing question

Postby WingAdmin » Wed Feb 13, 2013 3:53 pm

Well that's the first place I would look then. Disconnect the wiring you spliced in and see if the fuse continues to blow.

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virgilmobile
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Re: Wing question

Postby virgilmobile » Wed Feb 13, 2013 4:01 pm

OK...Without looking at the schematic it sounds like you spliced power from a marker circuit and added the 2 LED marker to it.
I assume that the fuse didn't blow before the LED's were added.
If so,then the additional draw form the LED's are just enough to exceed the fuse rating.
It is speculated that a circuit with a 15 amp fuse is designed to operate at 75% fuse rating or around 11 amp.
Adding 2 LED's,which by themselves may only draw around 2 amp each,when added to the circuit puts the load at just over 15 amp and will pop the fuse.
You need to find another source of power for the LED's.Or use a relay to power them,switched from the marker circuit.

DO NOT use a larger fuse......It is designed to protect the wires should one short to ground.A larger fuse with a shorted wire turns into a fire hazard.

On my 88,above the marker lamp area,attached to the harness is a small relay.It has suitable power for marker lights on the wires.
Please remove the marker light tap.

wingrooky63
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Re: Wing question

Postby wingrooky63 » Sun Feb 17, 2013 5:37 am

I just finished installing the new LED positioning lights. They sure look wonderful. I'm still working on the fuse problem and plan to take apart my last splicing job and see if the fuse problem stops per your recommendation. I will keep ya posted on my progress. Where did you get the power from to supply power to your saddle bag LED strip? Would love to do that as well.

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virgilmobile
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78 GL1000
81 GL1100
82 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 standard
84 GL 1200 I

Re: Wing question

Postby virgilmobile » Sun Feb 17, 2013 10:35 pm

actually I didn't use LED strip lights like the Admin did in his "How To",I used a computer CCFL. red lamp.They cost me about $6 each and were about 10" long.
Either one can be tied to the marker circuit as they draw very little power.I think my CCFL's draw 0.2 amp each.
I like the even glow of the CCFL better than the row of red dots from the individual LED's.

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redial
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Re: Wing question

Postby redial » Mon Feb 18, 2013 9:32 pm

For those not in the know, CCFL = Cold Cathod Fluorescent Lamps.

Cold cathodes sometimes have a rare earth coating to enhance electron emission. Some types contain a source of beta radiation to start ionization of the gas that fills the tube. In such a tube, glow discharge around the cathode is usually minimized; instead there is a so-called positive column, filling the tube.[dubious – discuss] Examples are the neon lamp and nixie tubes. Nixie tubes too are cold-cathode neon displays that are in-line, but not in-plane, display devices.

A common cold-cathode application is in neon signs and other locations where the ambient temperature is likely to drop well below freezing, The Clock Tower, Palace of Westminster (Big Ben) uses cold-cathode lighting behind the clock faces where continual striking and failure to strike in cold weather would be undesirable. Other examples include the thyratron, krytron, sprytron, and ignitron tubes. Large cold-cathode fluorescent lamps (CCFLs) have been produced in the past, and are still used today when shaped, long-life linear light sources are required. As of 2011 miniature CCFLs were extensively used as backlights for computer and television liquid crystal displays. CCFL lifespans vary in LCD televisions depending on transient voltage surges and temperature levels in usage environments.

Due to its efficiency, CCFL technology has expanded into room lighting. Costs are similar to those of fluorescent lighting[clarification needed], but with several advantages. The light emitted is easier on the eyes, bulbs turn on instantly to full output and are also dimmable.[4]
This is from Wikipedia.
Len in Kapunda

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Gordwing
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Re: Wing question

Postby Gordwing » Wed Feb 20, 2013 10:24 am

I have a 92 and the original cornering lights were on full time thru a separate switch that I kept forgetting to shut off,so I replaced them with a kit from J & P that bypassed the swith so they were on all the time but the bulbs were 14 amps each and kept blowing the relay,not the fuse. Are your lights original?

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Re: Wing question

Postby WingAdmin » Wed Feb 20, 2013 11:51 am

gordon hurtubise wrote:I have a 92 and the original cornering lights were on full time thru a separate switch that I kept forgetting to shut off,so I replaced them with a kit from J & P that bypassed the swith so they were on all the time but the bulbs were 14 amps each and kept blowing the relay,not the fuse. Are your lights original?


Are you sure of the bulb size? 14 amps? That's triple the power of your headlight!




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