new tires and brake pads.


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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AWILLIAMS64
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new tires and brake pads.

Postby AWILLIAMS64 » Sun Apr 28, 2013 9:10 pm



i am going to be puttin new tires on my 98 se. I bought it used last year and it has dunlop elite II tires on it. They have plenty of wear left in them but they are starting to have small cracks on the sidewalls and i have no idea of how old they actually are. also, would it be a good idea to go ahead and change the rear pads, while the wheel is off? i am having a local bike repair guy do it and he will mount and balance the tires on the bike for $50 each on the bike or $25 each off the bike...i think for $25 a tire difference, i will let him do it all. back to my question, what is a good brake pad to use? gaffler, ebc, honda...i found the dunlop e3 tires at bikebandit for a good price so i figure i might as well get pads at the same time. should the valve stems be replaced when the tires are,,,there are no leaks now..
also, is the small cracking on the sidewall normal, or should i go ahead and change them? i found a code on the tires but have no idea on how to read the date of it..



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ct1500
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Re: new tires and brake pads.

Postby ct1500 » Mon Apr 29, 2013 7:43 am

If I was in your situation have the shop do the complete job. You cannot go wrong with OEM pads and is what I use as they have excellent stopping power. If original valve stems replace with new when the E3 bias tires are replaced. 41 lbs. rear and 39 in the front for best wear and ride.

At the same time you will want to change final drive gear oil and moly D the drive shaft splines. Bleed brakes when done with fresh DOT 4 fluid.
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cbx4evr
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Re: new tires and brake pads.

Postby cbx4evr » Mon Apr 29, 2013 8:10 am

$50 to change out the rear tire is a great deal. Does he realize what it's going to take to remove the wheel?

As mentioned I would definitely change the valve stem, lube the splines with HONDA Moly 60 grease. If he doesn't have that, buy some and bring it along.



The brake pads may be alright. How many miles on the bike? Definitely a good time to flush and bleed the brake system with fresh fluid.
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Dusty Boots
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Re: new tires and brake pads.

Postby Dusty Boots » Mon Apr 29, 2013 9:05 am

Sorry ... I don't trust bike dealer mechanics to work on my bike! They are always in too much of a hurry to get the next bike up on the ramp and things are either not done properly, or not done at all!

If you can remove your rear tire, then do so and when you are at it, you can then check to see if you need new pads, as you may not need new pads at all, but the shop will install new ones regardless!
My bike had the original OEM pads on the rear until I finally got tired of looking at them and finally changed them out @ 174,500km/109,062mi with better than 30% pad wear left! :o

Bleed your brake system. I use a set of Speed Bleeders on my bike, making bleeding the brakes/clutch a fast and simple one man operation! ;)





Always install new valve stems with new tires! Always!! The rubber in them rots out surprisingly fast and the last thing you want is for one to blow out while motoring down the road. :o :? :evil:
Because I go through a lot of tires (and tire valves), the cost of replacing the OEM tire valve stems really started to add up so some time ago I invested in a pair of aluminum tire valves that have no rubber to rot out and will last as long as I plan on keeping the bike.
You do however have to make an easy/quick minor modification to the tab that retains the plastic valve stem holder.
I require you to file down a small amount of the tab so the tire valve stem can clear the tab so you can add air to the tire. It took just a few seconds with my die grinder to do that.








ALso, check the condition of the splines and grease them while the wheel is removed.

Cheapest place I know of to order your E3s from is JakeWilson.com, or their affiliate, RockyMountainATVMC.com for fast free shipping.


Dusty

AWILLIAMS64
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Re: new tires and brake pads.

Postby AWILLIAMS64 » Mon Apr 29, 2013 11:51 am

i called him today and its actually $70 for the rear wheel. He is just a small shop that is beside his house so he has minumum overhead and its just him working on the bikes. I looked at the brakes and they definitely dont need replaced. I will have him change the final drive oil, and grease the splines while he is at it, and also give the brakes a flush. He is definitely reasonable on his prices.

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ct1500
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Re: new tires and brake pads.

Postby ct1500 » Mon Apr 29, 2013 8:46 pm

And while the front wheel is off have the inner speedometer cable removed and lubed. Takes about an extra 4 minutes and while there repack speedo gears with a little fresh grease. :D
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Re: new tires and brake pads.

Postby Wingsconsin » Tue Apr 30, 2013 9:45 am

If he is flushing the brakes he might as well do the clutch system at the same time...refresh the fluids every other year...
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Mag
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Re: new tires and brake pads.

Postby Mag » Tue Apr 30, 2013 6:42 pm

Dusty Boots wrote:Bleed your brake system. I use a set of Speed Bleeders on my bike, making bleeding the brakes/clutch a fast and simple one man operation! ;)
[


Dusty....For a non-mechanical dude like me, is this easy? Looks like a slick thing!

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Dusty Boots
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Re: new tires and brake pads.

Postby Dusty Boots » Tue Apr 30, 2013 10:37 pm

Yes, it's a lot easier/quicker than the 'traditional' way of bleeding your system, once you install the speed bleeders, which is easy to do.
Just place your wrench on the bleed screw, attach a length of vinyl tubing of the correct size over the nipple and place the other end into a container that already has some brake fluid in it, so that it covers up the end of the tubing.
I use a turkey baster to suck out the old fluid in the master cylinder and top off with fresh DOT 4 from an unopened container.
Crack the speed bleeder open a 1/4 turn and start pumping, being careful you don't drain the master cylinder too far. When you see the fresh fluid coming out the hose and no air bubbles, tighten up the speed bleeder, remove the hose and you're done. Simple and fast! 8-)

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Mag
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Re: new tires and brake pads.

Postby Mag » Wed May 01, 2013 10:44 am

Cools, I like the idea of "one person operation"....that is what gets me, so that I can manage as much as I can by myself. Good link, will be looking in to!

fnickel
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Re: new tires and brake pads & date code

Postby fnickel » Mon May 06, 2013 5:12 am

As for the tire code, it is a 4 digit number. The first 2 digits are the week of the year, and the last 2 digits are the year that they were manufactured. eg 4312 would be the 43rd week of 2012. My tire guy told me not to ride any tire that was over 5 years old.




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