Well it's done new pads installed ..but...


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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RBGERSON
Posts: 2625
Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2010 7:57 am
Location: SCOTTSDALE, AZ
Motorcycle: 98 SE GL 1500
had every year from 75 to 83

Well it's done new pads installed ..but...

Postby RBGERSON » Sat May 18, 2013 8:03 pm



I did get the pads in and used the raise the whole trunk-bags in one move..

My steps..
First remove the seat and loosen the two bolts 14mm that become the pivot point for the bags/trunk

Next removed the two bolts that hold the mufflers to the frame of the bags..Under the bags 12mm you need to hold the nut it's not a welded nut.

Then pull the rubber plugs at the front of the bags inside there are 12mm bolts that hold the bag guards and bag frame in place. Nothing else in there has to taken off/out. Those bolts are hard to see and get to but they are in there.

Now you should be able to lift the whole bag/truck unit. Note I have air horns and extra wires in those plugged holes and I had to remove that too..the air hose on SE's comes out of the hole in the right bag best to shove it out the hole so it doesn't pull.

Not much to it really..now that I have done it once. The hard part is putting it back down!!!

Do whatever change out pads, replace tire, do splines, etc.

When I tried to put my bags back down I had a lot of trouble getting the bags to clear the bags guards (the bottom of the bags hit the top and bag guards) again lifting/prying the bags up and the guard down was tough.

Then to get the bag frame forked end into the spot between where the top bag guard bolts on and the bike frame's hole for the bolt. I needed a second person to hold the bags in just the right place so I could jiggle, push, shove, pry the fork into it's correct position between the guard's top bolt hole the bike's frame where the bolt attaches. It's the same on both sides. Maybe my bike was tweaked or something but it DID NOT just slip back into place. Then getting that bolt into the hole and lined up through the guard, then the forked frame end and into the bike's frame a challenge small hole, tight space and things put pressure on the bolt as it goes into.

It all worked but a lot swearing, and huffing and puffing.


HAD LOTS OF GOLDWING 75-83
NOW INTO 1500'S..RIDING A 1998 SE

FAIR WINDS,
RB

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wingpilot08
Posts: 422
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2012 4:43 pm
Location: Coatesville, PA
Motorcycle: 2008 GL1800-HPNA - 24,000+ miles
1988 Bunkhouse camping trailer
Darkside #1720

Re: Well it's done new pads installed ..but...

Postby wingpilot08 » Sun May 19, 2013 7:21 am

How much more/less work would it have bee to just remove the left saddlebag..maybe a lot less swearing?!? :?:
08' GL1800-HPNA - Red 20,000+ miles
1988 Bunkhouse Trailer/Camper
Darkside #1720

User avatar
RBGERSON
Posts: 2625
Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2010 7:57 am
Location: SCOTTSDALE, AZ
Motorcycle: 98 SE GL 1500
had every year from 75 to 83

Re: Well it's done new pads installed ..but...

Postby RBGERSON » Sun May 19, 2013 7:59 am

Yep after I got into I wondered too..but as I said once I knew how to it swinging it up was easy..just figuring it out took a while..as youi can see from my other posts.. :D
HAD LOTS OF GOLDWING 75-83
NOW INTO 1500'S..RIDING A 1998 SE

FAIR WINDS,
RB

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Sempai
Posts: 295
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2010 12:30 am
Location: Wichita, KS
Motorcycle: '94 GL1500SE
Contact:

Re: Well it's done new pads installed ..but...

Postby Sempai » Sun May 19, 2013 9:57 am

Working on the GL1500 seems daunting and very intimidating...until you buck up and do it, then, as you've described in this thread, it turns out to be not so bad. It all gets easier and easier, too. As I work on bikes very regularly, and most of the GoldWingers in this area come to me instead of the dealerships of the area, I'm fairly well practiced with them.
As far as working in the area of the rear axle, if I'm just doing a brake pad replacement, I'll remove the left saddlebag, replace the pads, and put her back together, less than 30 minutes of work. Anything more major, like a tire change or driveshaft issue, gets the rear pivot technique. This technique gets easier with practice, too...but there are plenty of hidden issues that can make this very difficult.
Have a look at the subframe that your trunk box is bolted to. I have found that the welded joints (here or there) can be broken loose which may cause a lot of the tweaking you described. Don't panic if they are broken, remove the trunk, clean up the broken joint(s,) weld them back together, and throw some rattle-can primer and paint on the repair. Be sure to move your wires and such as best you can from the welding area, and if you're concerned that something is too close to the area, COVER it with a few layers of aluminum foil from the kitchen, all will be well. I have some pictures, that I will post here in this thread as soon as I find them.
Keep the rubber side down.

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Sempai
Posts: 295
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2010 12:30 am
Location: Wichita, KS
Motorcycle: '94 GL1500SE
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Re: Well it's done new pads installed ..but...

Postby Sempai » Sun May 19, 2013 12:03 pm

The bike was noisy going over bumps...Just assumed it was a rattle-box due to being a 20 year old bike. After tearing the bags off during a rear suspension refurbish, I found the trunk's sub-frame was broken in 5 different locations. After repairing the fractures, the bike rode like brand new!!!








Keep the rubber side down.

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Fiberthree
Posts: 447
Joined: Fri Nov 23, 2012 4:06 pm
Location: Behind the windshield
Motorcycle: Black 1999 GL1500SE

Re: Well it's done new pads installed ..but...

Postby Fiberthree » Mon May 20, 2013 10:18 am

Sort of makes you wonder what they were packing in the trunk and bags!


Ed

WARNING: All posts are subject to influence from an uncontrollable dominant sarcastic gene. Offensive remarks may or may not be intentional.


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