GL1500: Part 3, Purrs Like a Kitten, Runs Like Crap


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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SchueGeorge59
Posts: 9
Joined: Sun Apr 14, 2013 5:59 pm
Location: Stevensville, Michigan
Motorcycle: 1990 GL1500 Goldwing

GL1500: Part 3, Purrs Like a Kitten, Runs Like Crap

Post by SchueGeorge59 » Mon May 27, 2013 11:18 am



Par III of Goldwing Saga.
In the two previous post regarding my 1990 GL-1500, I have done the following to my Bike. Clean out carburetors and replace gaskets. Replace all three coils and spark plug wires. Went back through the engine and replaced all tubing sections that even looked suspect even pulled off the intake manifolds and went through everything from the block up including the PAIR system. All things nice and clean and tight, I started the bike and it still ran as before. Half power, with consistent 'putting' out of both exhaust pipes instead of a nice smooth flow of exhaust hitting my palms. At this point I shut it off and had to leave it alone for two weeks due to a very busy work schedule.
Got back to it yesterday and connected a vacuum gauge to #1 tube. at first I forgot to tee it in so when I started the bike it would not run off of full choke and died several times before refusing to start at all. I disconnected the gauge and put #1 tube back on. I cranked on the bike starter for two different 5 second bursts with no fire. I then let it set for several minutes and tried again. The motor started right up and came down to a perfect idle not missing or 'putting' one bit out of the exhaust. Ran it for ten minutes in the garage like that even revving it up a few times and nothing changed.
I then secured any loose items and took it for a short run. Ran great and was super smooth..... until I slowed down to stop about 1 mile later. The motor was back to half power. At cruising speeds there is no problem. I got back home and after a short set less than 5 minutes I started it back up and it again ran perfect. I am thinking I have a failing solenoid somewhere but would like to have an idea of which one to start with. anybody else have a situation like this before? I am close to fixed but need it bullet proof. We have a 2000 mile group ride coming up and my wife is getting nervous. Not me.... yet!



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virgilmobile
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Motorcycle: 1988 GL1500 I
Previously owned
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81 GL1100
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83 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 standard
84 GL 1200 I

Re: GL1500: Part 3, Purrs Like a Kitten, Runs Like Crap

Post by virgilmobile » Mon May 27, 2013 11:52 am

OK,the hose you hooked the vacuum gauge to.....is it the one on the right rear....????
If it's the same plumbing as the 88,it goes to a "T" connection.One goes to the ECM AND the other is plugged for a test port.
Second...again,If like the 88,there are 2 air shot solenoids behind the right pocket.They can be tested easily.Also there is a control valve and filter on the right side,tucked behind the frame....I've heard of the filter deteorating and getting sucked into the valves.
There oz also a high altitude control valve in there too.
Do inspect all those hoses too.

SchueGeorge59
Posts: 9
Joined: Sun Apr 14, 2013 5:59 pm
Location: Stevensville, Michigan
Motorcycle: 1990 GL1500 Goldwing

Post by SchueGeorge59 » Mon May 27, 2013 9:01 pm

No, I hooked up on the left manifold on #4 port. The original intention was to test the carburetors to see if they were in sinc. I will be testing the air shot solenoid as time permits. Thank you for the suggestions. Both were on my 'to do' list. I also will be cleaning all electrical connections on all solenoids as the problem seems to be able to come and go. Wednesday will provide more discovery.

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ct1500
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Re: GL1500: Part 3, Purrs Like a Kitten, Runs Like Crap

Post by ct1500 » Mon May 27, 2013 10:33 pm

SchueGeorge59 wrote:Par III of Goldwing Saga.Got back to it yesterday and connected a vacuum gauge to #1 tube. at first I forgot to tee it in so when I started the bike it would not run off of full choke and died several times before refusing to start at all. I disconnected the gauge and put #1 tube back on. I cranked on the bike starter for two different 5 second bursts with no fire. I then let it set for several minutes and tried again. The motor started right up and came down to a perfect idle not missing or 'putting' one bit out of the exhaust. Ran it for ten minutes in the garage like that even revving it up a few times and nothing changed.
I then secured any loose items and took it for a short run. Ran great and was super smooth..... until I slowed down to stop about 1 mile later. The motor was back to half power. At cruising speeds there is no problem. I got back home and after a short set less than 5 minutes I started it back up and it again ran perfect. I am thinking I have a failing solenoid somewhere but would like to have an idea of which one to start with. anybody else have a situation like this before? I am close to fixed but need it bullet proof. We have a 2000 mile group ride coming up and my wife is getting nervous. Not me.... yet!
The reason engine eventually died was because vacuum hose that was removed supplies vacuum to the auto fuel valve shutting off fuel flow. And you write now with that hose removed bike ran fine for a short while.

In an earlier post you wrote when spray was added to left carb it killed running almost immediately, that tells me left side is running rich. And that it ran better with fuel valve vacuum hose removed for a short while before running out of fuel or for a little while it was running much better afterward.

You likely have a defective auto fuel valve that is allowing raw gas to be sucked into the left side at cylinder #4 vacuum hose causing the rich condition.

Attach a vacuum pump to auto fuel valve and make sure it will hold a vacuum. Or after bike is running disconnect vacuum line at auto fuel valve in front of gas cap and check for gas dripping from valve or hose.
This is what I do
Local and need repair help with your 1500, Valkyrie or ST please click contact.

SchueGeorge59
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Motorcycle: 1990 GL1500 Goldwing

Re: GL1500: Part 3, Purrs Like a Kitten, Runs Like Crap

Post by SchueGeorge59 » Tue May 28, 2013 7:58 am

CT1500,
Never said the bike ran fine in my last post. Would only start on full choke and died right away. I had already tested the auto fuel valve when replacing and inspecting all hoses. The valve was able to hold vacuum while testing so I believe the valve to be functioning correctly. Also, I am not having a problem with the left carb being rich in mixture. Neither the plugs or tailpipe show any sign of this condition. Plugs are very clean burning and no discharge of carbon on the pipe tip. The earlier picture that I posted of fouled plugs was from #1 and #6 cylinders respectively. #1 had a week plug wire and #6 was caused by #6 tube having a nice burn hole on the bottom of it. Both of those conditions have been corrected. When I got it started after re-installing #1 tube, the bike ran so good until something either switched on or off it was incredible. I still have several solenoids to test and a lot of electrical connections to check. I am also picking up a better vacuum pump as well on my way home tonight. I have one that I McGuyvered together for work that will only pull a low vac reading. Better than nothing but I could use one designed for this.

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virgilmobile
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83 GL1100 I
83 GL1100 standard
84 GL 1200 I

Re: GL1500: Part 3, Purrs Like a Kitten, Runs Like Crap

Post by virgilmobile » Tue May 28, 2013 9:50 am

Here's a bit of info about the sub air filter.....
http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-g ... ilter.html

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ct1500
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Re: GL1500: Part 3, Purrs Like a Kitten, Runs Like Crap

Post by ct1500 » Tue May 28, 2013 12:40 pm

SchueGeorge59 wrote: I took and sprayed some cleaner in the brass jet port in both carbs one at a time and got a totally different reaction from each one. The Right carb made the motor pick up RPM briefly when sprayed with cleaner. When I did the same thing to the Left carb, this would instantly kill the bike. This was a very repeatable test, even at elevated RPM's
From a previous thread is where I got this bit of info you wrote. And when I wrote back in the thread to spray it directly into carb throat, there was no reply. :?:

When helping folks on the Forum I try to provide them with sound diagnostic procedures anyone should be able to do. You must be able to narrow down exactly what the engine is or is not doing for areas to be checked for a timely and successful repair without blindly throwing parts at a problem hoping it will go away.

Compression, ignition and carbureation are the requirements and in your case can eliminate compression as it will not come and go. Next up is the ignition which on the 1500 is fairly bullet proof with no known weak areas. Tested very easily by removing plug wires from a running engine to determine if spark can be heard jumping to the plug. There is no "half power" scenario with regard to spark, you either got it or you don't and no magical ignition timing malfunction that comes and goes after a vacuum hose removal. Ignition timing can be manipulated to vary wildly at idle and not give the symptoms you describe.

Which leads us to fuel/air mixture, it is either dead nuts on, lean or rich, three possibilities only. Putting spray into carbs earlier you confirmed this condition with each carb acting differently to the procedure. Left side is rich, right is lean which is why I have replied with what was written earlier. Just because you do not see a sooty tail pipe or black spark plug does not mean it is not rich, plugs will take a while to become fouled black. So we must then go back and trust what the adding spray told us about the running problem. The auto fuel valve is a known problem leaking fuel into the manifolds down the vacuum hose.

There is no solenoid valve which if defective could cause such a bad running condition (extreme rich or extreme lean) and even more so affecting one side only of the engine. Defective air jet controllers do not have that range of extremeness nor does the shot air system with its solenoids able to richen an engine, only lean it out by adding air to the manifolds and once again affecting only one side is even more improbable.

My 2 cents.
This is what I do
Local and need repair help with your 1500, Valkyrie or ST please click contact.

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redial
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Re: GL1500: Part 3, Purrs Like a Kitten, Runs Like Crap

Post by redial » Tue May 28, 2013 7:37 pm

I trust your frustration levels have not gone too high. Just from general experience, have you got a blocked fuel/air line/filter? I know it has been suggested that you purge the carbies with air, but what are the filters like - both air and fuel? If it goes for a short while and then dies, this sounds to me like the fuel can get through, but only slowly and not enough to give you the performance expected.

I hope it is something simple so that "normal service will be resumed as soon as possible".
Len in Kapunda

The world is not going to finish today, as it is already tomorrow in Australia and New Zealand, and other islands of foreign nations such as Guam and Samoa.

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stevemiller
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Re: GL1500: Part 3, Purrs Like a Kitten, Runs Like Crap

Post by stevemiller » Sun Jun 02, 2013 8:57 pm

could you have a non honda gas cap that seals the system. when it craps out take the gas cap off for a sec. and put back on and see if it runs.

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Kiwi2
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Re: GL1500: Part 3, Purrs Like a Kitten, Runs Like Crap

Post by Kiwi2 » Tue Jun 04, 2013 5:08 pm

I am going to suggest something that you may have done or not. Have you checked the spark plug caps and wires?

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wingdings
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Re: GL1500: Part 3, Purrs Like a Kitten, Runs Like Crap

Post by wingdings » Sun Jan 08, 2017 8:54 am

has the bike had the upgrade done on it - ?? - Honda recalled all early wings to sort out the hesitation problem with the bike - some ppl took there bikes back others just lived with it !! - see below -

hope this may help - if you look on the right hand side head stock - you should be able to get the Honda vin number - this will pin point the exact model you have - and if you ring your local dealer he may be able to bring up any service history on the bike too !! - you need to know which model you have and what country it was made for too !! :roll: :roll: :roll:

and before you do all that check the petcock - take it apart - look inside - it will take you about an hour and cost you about £10 in parts - hear is a how to link for that - too -

- and hear is my post link on hear -

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=36103 - see what happens when you don't check your petcock - most of all check your spark plugs !! that will tell you just what's going on with your engine and fuel system too !! ..

hear is a parts manual to for you - just click on the link and down load - http://www.slideshare.net/briancook7127 ... ction=save

and the Honda bulletin on the up grade too - :D :D










Honda goldwing gl1500 1988 carburetor vent hose routing 96 ac0
1. Product Update 1988 GL1500 Carburetor Vent Hose Routing 8803 GL1500 #1GL1500 #18803Product Update 1988 GL1500 Carburetor Vent Hose RoutingGL1500 Carburetor Vent HoseMotorcycle1500GL1500 #1REVISED: MARCH 1988ASERVICE BULLETINAMERICAN HONDA. MOTOR CO.,IHC. MOTORCYCLE SERVICE DEPARTMENTPRODUCT UPDATE1988 GL1500 CARBURETOR VENT HOSE ROUTING(This Product Update supersedes GL 1500 # " dated February, 1988.Follow the vpdate procedures in this bulletin and discard the original GL 1500 1/ 1.)American Honda is conducting a Product UpdateProgram on 1988 GLl500s to install a carburetor venthose kit. The addition of this kit is necessary to ensurethat the vent hoses are properly routed and nOI pinchedor kinked.If the vent hoses are pinched or kinked, fuel couldoverflow into the cylinders while the engine is off. Ifthishappens, the starter motor may npt be able to Urn overthe engine.The update kit contains a metal aIr vent pipe and avacuum fuel valve. The vent pipe will ensure corr~ctrouting of the hoses to prevent pinching or kinking.Additionally,lhe new vacuum fuel valve will stop fuelfrom flowing to the carburetors when the engine isturned off.The update kit must be installed on any applicable 1988G1I500 (see below) by following the proceduresdescribed in this bulletin.APPLICABLE GL1500s• 49·State Models:- Up to VIN 1HFSC2200JA()()4107• California Models:- Up to VIN IHFSC2218JA000959NOTE: Some of these units may have already beenupdated. All new GLI500s after the above VINs havebeen updated by the factory.Updated units can be identified by opening the fuelfiller compartment. Ifthe new air vent pipe and vacuumfuel valve are installed, the Product Update has alreadybeen completed.DEALER INVENTORY OF G11500sAny new 1988 GLl500 in your inventory within theapplicable VIN shown must be updated before releaseto the customer.CUSTOMER-OWNED GL1500sApplicable customer-owned GLlSOOs must also beupdated with the new pans.American Honda will send a letter 10 all 1988 GLl500owners informing them thai they are entitled to receivethis update without charge. They will be instrUCted tocall and make an appointment for the update work.For your reference, the text of the customer letter isreproduced on page 5 of this bulletin.This Product Update Program will end on August 31,1988.UPDATE REPAIR PROCEDUREIMPORTANT NOTES:• The procedures that follow apply 10 both 49-Stateand California models - individual differences arenoted.• Be sure ALL hoses are routed as shown or describedto prevent pinching or kinking. Clips should beattached on all hoses.• Carefully remove and install the plastic body partsand covers. Be sure A LL fasteners and labs areremoved firsl.• Use the 1988 GLl500 Service Manual for partsreference and location.• If you need additional information, contact yourCSR (1-213·512-6657) or American Hondas TechL;ne (1-800421-1900).I. Carejully remove the following pans; refer to section13 of the GUSOO Service Manual for details.NOTE: Before removing these pans. be sure ALLfasteners and tabs are released.• Seat (13-8)• Left and right side covers (13-8)• Both fairing pockets (13-8, 9)• Ignition switch cover (13·9)• Top inner covers (13·9)• Top compartment (13-9)• Fairing front cover (13-10)• Fairing inner covers (13·11), of 5MTB 4156·4191 (8803)... ",. ........ ,t-eROUTING:COPY 1COPY 2o GEp,jERAL MANAGERo SERVICE MANAGERo SALES DEPT.no O""CE FILEn _..__ ......
2. GL1500#1REVISED: MARCH 19882. Locate the right and left carburetor vent hoses thatconnect into aT-filling al the back of the air cleanerbox. Measure and cut these hoses as follows:- Remove both hoses from the T·fitting. Discardthe fining.To 4-w.y fittingIC.lifonlili onlylCAUFORNIAMODEL SHOWNAIR VENT-CONTROLVALVE IAVCVIPull off thrs hoM from AVCV.•FRONT7. Lift up the fuel filler tray and install the gas cap.Using needle nose pliers from underneath the tray.gently squeeze the plastic tabs on the idle speed knobholder. Remove the holder from the tray.8. Push the holder into the bracket on the new vacuumfuel valve provided in the kit. Mount the valve on thefuel filler tray using the scre:w/washersupplied. (Thescrew threads into the bracket from underneath thetray - use the hole where: the idle speed knob holderwas originally installed.)9. Remove the gas cap and position the tray over thefuel filler opening. Reinstall the gas cap and the fueloverflow hose. Place the idle speed knob in its holder.IO.lnsert the new 9()0 elbow provided in the kit into thecarburetor fuel hose. Push the other end of the hoseon the rear fltlingofthe vacuum fuel valve. Positionand secure the hose clips.FUEL OVERFLOWHOSEToPCV6. CALIFORNIA MODELS ONLY: Pull off thesmall vacuum hose from the Air Vent Control Valve(AVCV). Remove the AVCV from its mounting labon the fuel filler tray.1/FUel HOSE(To fuel filt. IRIGHT VENT HOSEIM••suN and cut It120 mm.1~T·FITTING{Remove IlId diSQrdl_..-_=-F-:;"ON~T:<d~~~~~-left and Right Hose: Measure back 120 mm fromthe carburetor and cut both hoses at this point.Discard the cui hose pieces.IMPORTANT: Resurt: the length oreach hose isl20mm.3. Remove the fuel hose from the carburetorside of thefuel filter. Measure and cut 30 mm off this hose.mti;lkI@iJ Gasoline is extremely flammable andis explosive under certain conditions. 00 not smokeor allow names or sparks in your work area.LEFT VENT HOSEIMhsure and cut 8120 mm.lFUel FILTEREXISTING FUelHOSE ITo C.rbs)•FRONTNEW VACUUM ~~~j~~~~l:FUEL VALVE NEW 900 HOSENEW goo ELBOWAND HOSE4. Remove the fuel filter and idle speed knob from theirmounting tabs (holders) on the fuel filler tray.5. Remove the gas cap and co~r the fuel filler openingwith a clean shop towel to prevent loose parts fromfalling into the fuel tank. Disconnect the fueloverflow hose from tM: filler tray.2 of 51!.lnstall the new 9()0 fuel hose onto the fuel filter andattach the filter back onto its mounting tab. Connectthe other end of the hose to the front fitting on thevacuum fuel valve. Position and secure the hoseclips_NOTE: The large end of the hose should be installedon the fuel valve.$1988 Alne<0UtI~Motor Co.• Inc - All Aog/IIs Rne<ved
3. GL1500 #1REVISED: MARCH 1988NEW 70 mmHOSE..FRONTIS. Rotlte the nlW T·filIingotnd vacuum hoses under AirVcnt Pipe ~I~. ConneCllhe ex.isting AVCV hose 10Air Vent Pipe "A ". Mount the AVCV on its tab onthe fud tiller tray.19.Ched.the harorutivc EmissiOll Control Hose alll./fuel e<lp vent hose routing. 10 the e.mister. makint!sure the hoses arc not pinched or kinked. Inix Ihlsupplied Vacuum Hose Routing Diagram m·er thtoriginal one on the fueltanl<.EVAPORATIVE EMISSION HOSE,CuI 165 mm from the end - ;nstallon vent pipe "B"NEWT·FITTINGNEW 130mm /HOSE =-::::;:;-~";R~L~7Z::=:==::~EXISTING HOSE ~ _ i ~:~=~~~,o"ndi Ilr:.:j;-·· ) " I. L-,- I Open 10 I ,., I ~_atmosphere (II/. ,I :W t AVCv~7);/ ", 1 ~.I, . ) ,, . i,. iTO VENT i PIPE "B"IS. Install the new Air Venl Pipe "B"(with new hoses) inplace of the original T-fitting and hoses. The ventpipe holder attaches on the lip of the fuel filler tray.16. Measure. cut and discard 70 mm from the vacuumhose removed in step 6. Install the newT-fining intothis hose and connect the new 70 mm vacuum hoseto the AVCV.I7.AHach the new 130 mm vacuum hose from theT-filling III the vacuum fuel valve. Position the fuelvalve hose clip downward.CALIFORNIA MODELS ONLY (Steps 14 -191:14. Remove the Evaporative Emission Control Hosefrom the existing T-fitting - discard the fitting.Measure. cut and discard 165 mm from the end ofthis hose.,NEW 610 mm HOSENOTE: for future c..b. aynch .. ......ewe thishose and connect vacuum glu.ge 10 T.filting.NEWT·FITTING D~ _ --":--. -:::--s-= .r~( ~90mmHOSE- Measure, cut and discard 100 mOl from the end ofthis hose. Install the new T-fitting into this hoseand attach the red vacuum hose back onto themanifold fitting. Position and secure the hoseclips.CARBURETOR SYNCHRONIZATIONNOTE: The new vacuum fuel valve needs 10remain connected for the bike to run. For futurecarburetor synchronization. leave the 610 mmhose and the red vacuum hose connected.Disconnect the remaining cruise control vacuumhose and atlach the vacuum gauge at this fitting.(Thi~ docs not apply to l"<.Ilifornia models)- Attach the new 610 mm vacuum hose 10 lhecenter of the new T-fitting. Route this hose upinside the frame belween the air cleaner box andthe front of the fuel tank. Connect the end to thefitting on the vacuum fuel valve. Be sure the hoseis not pinched or kinked. Position and secure thehose clips.-GO TO STEP 20.12S1idc the new spring over the right vent hose. Pushbmh the vent hoses onto the new Air Vent Pipe ~ A"(push on 20 mm to the stopper). Remove the tworear aircleanercoversCre~ and mount the new ventpipe onto the air cleaner box.AIR CLEANER SCREWSr~~~ NEW AIR VENT .~ ~<,l!t -~, _9 PIPE "A" ~LEFT SIDE RIGHT SIDE(With springl-Check that both vent hoses are not pinched orkinked, especially where they bend around the airbox.1149-STATE MODELS ONLY: Remove the vacuumhose from the filting on the right intake manifold,between #3 and #5 spark plug.C1988 An>e"can Honda M010r CO. Inc: _ All R,ght,. Reserved 3015
4. GLl500#lREVISED: MARCH 1988ALL UNITS ISteps 20 . 24)I).Confirm the installation and routing of all the newparts. Be sure the hoses are not pinched or kinked.Double-check that all hose clips art positioned andsecured.CALIFORNIA MODEL49·STATE MODELImportant Note:Be sure to perform the procedure for dearing theeylinders lhat follows:21.A certain amount of fuel may ~squirt~ from thecylindersduring this procedure. Move the motorcycleoutside. away from anything you don) want fuel on.• (;asoJine is extremely flammable and is explositunder certain conditions. 00 nol smoke or allownames or sparks in your work area.• The proper useo(adequatesafet, equipment such a~glo·es. eye protection, safety shoes. and protectiveclothing can reduce the possibilil) of serious injur)to )ourself and olhers.4 of 5A Remove all six spark plugs.B. Lay several shop towels over the spark plug holeson each bank of cylinders. This will absorb anyfuel that might be expelled from the cylinden..C Move the engine stop switch to the MOF"-position.Important Note:00 not attempt to crank the engine over unltSS theengine stop slitch is in the MOFFMposition.D. Turn the ignition switch MONMand. with thethrottle closed. crank the engine. This will clearany residual fuel from the cylinders. Allow theengine to spin for several seconds.E Install the spark plugs and plug wires.22. Move the engine stop switch to the "ON- position.Start the engine and check that there are no fuel orvacuum leaks.23. Position the top compartment on a padded surfaceon your workbench SO the radio is facedown. Usingneedle nose pliers. remove the radio cover latchspring. Remove (and discard) the latch from itsmounting boss with needle nose pliers: twist and pullit out from the pivot points.14. Install the new latch (provided in the kit) by aligningthe pivot pins into the mounting boss holes: the latchshould lock into position. Then. reinstall the latchspring and check that the latch pivots freely. Affixthe new rubber pad to the comer ofthe radiolcassetteas shown.Am. new / /rubber pad here. / / _~h---RADIO COVER LATCHIRemove and fePlaee.)NOTE: The new latch is shaped difTerenltoclearthevacuum fuel valve with the lOpcompartment installed.The rubber pad protects the fuel hose from ruhbingon the radio housing.25. Cureluf~r install the removed body pans in thereverse order of disassembly.IOTE: Be sure the body parts do not pinch or kinkany of the hoses.Cll988 A.me<ocan M~ MaiO Co. Inc _ A.II RlIh1S R_,..-d
5. IDENTIFICATIONFor future reference, the new vacuum fuel valve and airvent pipe(s) will identify 1988 GL ISOOs that have beenupdated.PARTS INFORMATIONIMPORTANT: You will automatically be shipped Ikit initially. Subsequently, you will be shipped theappropriate number of kits based on the number ofunits invoiced to your dealership.There are two update kits - 49-$tate and California.The parts are not initially available for open ordering;for future ordering reference, the update kits are listedbelow.• 49-State KitPIN: 061 66-MN5-000H/C: 2941862Includes the following:- Vacuum fuel valve (I)- Air vent pipe"A"(I)- 9(f elbow, with fuel hose (I)- 90" fuel hose (I)- T·fitting, with red 90 mm vacuum hose (I)- Vacuum hose. 610 mm (I)- Screw/washer (I)- Radio cover latch (I)- Radio rubber pad (I)- Assorted clips- Right vent hose spring ( I)• California KitPIN: 06166-MN5-740H/C: 2941870Includes the following;- Vacuum ruel valve (I)- Air vent pipe"A~(I)- Air vent pipe "B~, with 55 mm and 85 mmhoses (I)- 900elbow, with fuel hose (I)- 900fuel hose (I)- T-liuing, with 70 mm and 130 mm vacuumhoses (I)- Screw/washer (I)- Radio cover latch (I)- Radio rubber pad (I)- Assorted clips- Right vent hose spring (I)- Vacuum hose routing diagram (I)WARRANTY INFORMATiONThis Product Update Program will end on August 31,1988. Claims submitted after this date will not beprocessed.C11988 American Honda Mellor Co.. loc. - All RoghlS ReservedGL1500#1REVISED: MARCH 1988Submit a claim form with the following information:• For 49-STATE and CALIFORNIA models:Contention Code: J IIDefect Code: 363Failed Honda Code: 2829513Labor Operation Number: 314804Flat Rate Time: 1.5 hoursTEXT OF CUSTOMER LETERMarch 1988De., 1988 GLiSOO GOLD WING Owner:RE: PRODUCT UPDATE - Carburetor Vent HoseRoutingAs an owner ofthe most prestigious touring motorcycleavailable today, American Honda realizes you are oneofour most vaJued customers. To ensure your continuedsatisfaction, we are conducting a Product UpdateProgram on 1988 GL1500 motorcycles to install acarburetor vent hose kit. The addition of this kit isnecessary to ensure that the vent hoses are properlyrouted and not pinched or kinked.Pinched or kinked vent hoses may cause fuel tooverflow into the cylinders while the engine is off.lfthi!lhappens, you may not be able to start the engine. Theupdate kit contains parts that will correctly route thehoses to prevent pinching or kinking. Additionally, anew vacuum fuel valve is included to prevent fuel fromflowing to the carburetors with the engine off.Your authorized Honda motorcycle dealer will updateyour 1988 GLI500 by installing the newvem hose kit alno charge to you for parts or labor. We suggest you callthe dealer thai you purchased your Gold Wing fromand make an appointment to have the update workperformed. He will have the updale kit for yourmotorcycle. You should plan on leaving your motor-cycle al the dealership for at least half a day.This Product Updale Program will end on August 31,1988. However. with good riding weather just aroundthe corner, we recommend (hat you have the updateperformed on your Gold Wing as soon as possible.If you have additional queslions after discussing thisupdate with your Honda motorcycle dealer. pleasecontact the Motorcycle Customer Service Departmentin Gardena. California al 1-213-532-9811.Good riding - and thank you again ror buying a newHonda Gold Wing.Sincerely,AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO.• INC.5 of 5



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