CLUTCH, TRANSMISSION PROBLEM ?


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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BUBBACAYMAN
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Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Motorcycle: 1993 GL1500 INTERSTATE WITH LEHMAN TRIKE KIT

CLUTCH, TRANSMISSION PROBLEM ?

Postby BUBBACAYMAN » Sat Jun 29, 2013 2:31 am



Never think everything is fine with your wing.
1993 GL1500I with trike kit. Sat for a week without being run or driven.

Cranked her in the garage, in neutral, let her warm up, then depressed the clutch all the way,
shifted into first gear, and she lurched forward, with clutch still fully depressed. Course she died
so I pumped the clutch several times, left her in 1st. and tried to crank her,,, again lurched forward.

Put her in neutral, cranked her, hard to shift thru the gears, with clutch all the way in, especially
down to 1st., but managed... put her in first and barely release maybe 1/4 inch of clutch and away
she went,,, sooooo

WHAT'S THE PROBLEM, CLUTCH ADJUSTMENTS (HOW DO I DO THAT) CLUTCH FLUID WAS CHANGED OUT
BY HONDA SHOP LESS THAN 2000 MILES AGO.

IS THERE A TRANSMISSION FLUID, AND A DIPSTICK TO CHECK THE LEVEL ??

IT WAS POURING DOWN RAIN, SO TOMORROW, EXCUSE ME LATER TODAY, WILL TAKE HER OUT
AND SEE WHAT GIVES. :?: :?: :?:



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trike lady
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Motorcycle: 1993 GL1500 Aspencade with Voyager (Sold)
1983 GL650I SilverWing Interstate

Re: CLUTCH, TRANSMISSION PROBLEM ?

Postby trike lady » Sun Jun 30, 2013 9:33 pm

The transmission, clutch and engine all share the same oil and only 1 dip stick.
How is the feel of the lever? Is there resistance? Soft feeling?
How is the fluid level in the clutch reservoir?
What type of engine oil are you using, it must be specific for a 'Wet Clutch'?
I.M.B.B.A. Technician II Certified

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ct1500
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Re: CLUTCH, TRANSMISSION PROBLEM ?

Postby ct1500 » Sun Jun 30, 2013 11:03 pm

What is the history and mileage of machine, why changed just 2k miles ago was there other problems prior to that.

Clutch is non adjustable as it is hydraulic operated. Aftermarket levers, worn lever bushing or pushrod and the hydraulics is where I would be looking for the problem.
This is what I do
Local and need repair help with your 1500, Valkyrie or ST please PM

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BUBBACAYMAN
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Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Motorcycle: 1993 GL1500 INTERSTATE WITH LEHMAN TRIKE KIT

Re: CLUTCH, TRANSMISSION PROBLEM ?

Postby BUBBACAYMAN » Mon Jul 01, 2013 4:28 am

The transmission, clutch and engine all share the same oil and only 1 dip stick.
How is the feel of the lever? Is there resistance? Soft feeling?
How is the fluid level in the clutch reservoir?
What type of engine oil are you using, it must be specific for a 'Wet Clutch'?

Oil is checked daily, always full, oil is Honda 20-50 synthetic
Clutch Reservoir was low, filled with DOT 4 brake fluid
Lever resistance is same as always



What is the history and mileage of machine, why changed just 2k miles ago was there other problems prior to that.

Clutch is non adjustable as it is hydraulic operated. Aftermarket levers, worn lever bushing or pushrod and the hydraulics is where I would be looking for the problem.

BIKE WAS OWNED BY A FRIEND FOR LAST 10 YEARS, ALWAYS MAINTAINED BY CERTIFIED MECHANIC
HAD 33000 MILES WHEN I BOUGHT IT MAY 1. HAD R&R TRIKES IN JASPER GA. PUT ON NEW TIRES, RAKE THE
FRONT FORK, AND FLUSH AND FILL THE CLUTCH AND BRAKE FLUID LINES AND RESERVOIRS.

WAS HAVING A LITTLE TROUBLE GETTING INTO 1ST. GEAR LAST RIDE, THEN WHEN SHE SAT UP FOR A WEEK,
THE ABOVE PROBLEM OCCURRED. FILLED THE CLUTCH RESERVOIR AND WENT ON A 200 MILE MOUNTAIN
RIDE WITH LOTS OF SHIFTING AND BRAKING, ALL SEEMED FINE UNTIL TOWARDS THE END, WILL BE CHECKING
FLUID LEVELS AGAIN TODAY. GOTTA GET READY FOR THE RIDE TO GREENVILLE.

tflanders
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Re: CLUTCH, TRANSMISSION PROBLEM ?

Postby tflanders » Mon Jul 01, 2013 7:27 am

This might be a dumb question, but, I wont know unless I ask! I see you use 20-50 synthetic Honda oil. Can I use Amsoil? Or is the Honda oil specifically made for the motor, tranny and clutch?

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BUBBACAYMAN
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Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Motorcycle: 1993 GL1500 INTERSTATE WITH LEHMAN TRIKE KIT

Re: CLUTCH, TRANSMISSION PROBLEM ?

Postby BUBBACAYMAN » Mon Jul 01, 2013 8:08 am

My only response to which oil, is there are a million different answers
But for the ole man here,,, HONDA Oil is not that more expensive and
the 10W-40 is what most people run. I run the 20W-50 being in the HOT SOUTH.

Just my opinion, everyone has their own

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Snowmoer
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1988 GL 1500
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Re: CLUTCH, TRANSMISSION PROBLEM ?

Postby Snowmoer » Mon Jul 01, 2013 1:38 pm

You said in one of your posts that the clutch fluid was low and you added some. You may have some air in the line. This would cause the problems that you have listed. The system will need to be bled to get the air out of the system. With air in the system the clutch will not go all the way in and power is still going to the transmission.

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Fatwing Chris
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Re: CLUTCH, TRANSMISSION PROBLEM ?

Postby Fatwing Chris » Mon Jul 01, 2013 8:14 pm

I'd lay money that your slave cylinder is leaking and it needs to be rebuilt.JMHO.Mine was acting the same way.
If I'da known it would last this long,I'da taken better care of it.
Chris
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Sempai
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Re: CLUTCH, TRANSMISSION PROBLEM ?

Postby Sempai » Tue Jul 02, 2013 8:27 am

I have seen this problem on several Goldwings throughout the different generations. I've attached a picture to help explain what is happening.
What is happening: The pushrod that actuates the master cylinder, by design, just floats in the space between the cylinder's plunger and a bushing which resides within the actual clutch lever. This pushrod is known for pushing its way through the bushing. Early symptoms include the extra play in the lever before engaging the cylinder's plunger, and the annoying, arbitrary canceling of the cruise control (or complete failure to engage the C.C.) If left to take its own course, the pushrod will eventually push its way completely through the bushing and continue on through the lever itself. Later symptoms include the clutch lever feeling 'loose,' the clutch lever failing to disengage the clutch completely, and worse, the friction point degrading towards the end of the clutch lever travel...that is to say, you pull the lever and you don't feel the clutch working until the lever is pulled almost all the way, releasing the lever has the clutch fully engaged very quickly upon release of the lever. Essentially speaking, when you pull the clutch lever, the first 80% of lever travel just gets the pushrod to engage the plunger, clutch activity is only in the last 20% or so of the lever's travel. Inversely, when you release the lever, the clutch is fully engaged in the first 20% of lever travel. Finally, lol, just before the pushrod finally breaks through the far side of the LEVER (as you can see in the attached photograph,) the pushrod is just too far from fully engaging the clutch, symptoms being the increased difficulty in finding neutral with the engine running, the bike lurching while stopped, in gear, clutch fully pulled...at this time, you might think about getting a new clutch lever, bushing, and pushrod, about $35 from the dealership, you can reuse the O-ring from the old pushrod.


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