Vibration


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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ljpphoto
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Vibration

Postby ljpphoto » Thu Aug 29, 2013 12:51 pm



I've recently been feeling a vibration on my 1988 GL1500 floorboards, stronger under acceleration. I don't feel it anywhere else. I recently changed my plugs and front wheel bearings. The bike runs fine but the vibration's getting stronger, making my feet tingle at 2,000 RPM. I bought the bike with 46k miles. Currently I have 98k miles, good tires, etc. I've done no work to the engine other than routine maintenance like oil and filters. Any ideas?



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cbx4evr
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Re: Vibration

Postby cbx4evr » Thu Aug 29, 2013 2:26 pm

If it didn't vibrate before the wheel bearing change I would start by reviewing that work.

Remember that new doesn't always mean good.
"It´s a friggen motorcycle, it´s not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you s**t your pants every now and then. "

ljpphoto
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Re: Vibration

Postby ljpphoto » Thu Aug 29, 2013 7:36 pm

The vibration started before the wheel bearing change, that's what prompted me to do that (which it sort of needed). At first it was happening at even intervals, about a half second apart. I'm pretty sure it's coming from the engine as the ONLY place I feel it is in my feet. There's also some sound that seems to be related to the vibration, reminding me of my old beefed up 425 Buick engine I had in my El Camino.

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dingdong
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Re: Vibration

Postby dingdong » Fri Aug 30, 2013 5:37 am

You might have a problem with your alternator. The bearings (especially the rear) can go bad and cause a vibration along with the dampeners between the engine and the alt. A mechanics stethoscope helps to locate vibrations.
Tom

A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

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virgilmobile
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Re: Vibration

Postby virgilmobile » Fri Aug 30, 2013 7:01 am

Keep the driveshaft in mind too.Inspect and grease the splines and check the U joint.

ljpphoto
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Re: Vibration

Postby ljpphoto » Fri Aug 30, 2013 10:27 am

I used a backyard stethoscope (socked extension to the ear) with the bike on the center stand and heard the most noise in the drive shaft. It sounded pretty bad. I think that's where I'm going to look. Alternator sounded good. Thanks for the tips.

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virgilmobile
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Re: Vibration

Postby virgilmobile » Fri Aug 30, 2013 10:42 am

Please take pictures along the way.Were all interested in what you find.

ljpphoto
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Re: Vibration

Postby ljpphoto » Fri Aug 30, 2013 5:31 pm

I'll definitely take pictures, I'm interested in seeing what I find as well! With the drive shaft in mind, today's ride seemed pretty positive that's the culprit. It may take some time before I tackle it, so be patient. :)

jocoflyer
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Re: Vibration

Postby jocoflyer » Sun Sep 01, 2013 10:16 am

I am ready to reinstall my stock OEM alternator to my '99 SE after having new brushes installed. I noticed that one of the set of dampners in no longer bridged together. (I assume that is what the 4 sets of black plastic triangle pieces are). Do these need to be replaced or can I just install the alternator the way things are. Other then the one set coming apart all other sets are fine with no other problems.
Thanks, JC

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Sempai
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Re: Vibration

Postby Sempai » Sun Sep 01, 2013 11:12 am

ljpphoto wrote:I've recently been feeling a vibration on my 1988 GL1500 floorboards, stronger under acceleration. I don't feel it anywhere else.

These two statements alone tell me you have a u-joint problem. Remove the driveshaft, oscillate the yoke throughout its entire ranges of motion. Both axes should feel free and move smoothly from stop to stop in both directions.
IF you find the slightest issue in either direction, replace the joint.
Keep the rubber side down.

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Re: Vibration

Postby ljpphoto » Tue Oct 08, 2013 12:48 pm

Upon closer inspection of the final drive I found the differential was really making some bad noises. I replaced that, checking the rest of the drive line in the process. The noise is gone but the vibration is still there under acceleration but not so much while coasting. If I rev the engine while coasting I feel it a little, making me wonder about the timing belts. I have 97k+ miles on the bike and the belts are original. Could this be my vibration problem? It's also about the same at different speeds which makes me think it's not in the final drive.

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Sempai
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Re: Vibration

Postby Sempai » Tue Oct 08, 2013 2:19 pm

ljpphoto wrote:The noise is gone but the vibration is still there under acceleration but not so much while coasting.

I read in your most recent post that you checked your driveline while replacing the final drive...but the portion of your statement that I highlighted really screams of a bad u-joint. While you had it apart, did you swivel your joint from stop to stop in both directions?? Experience tells me that vibrations felt only under acceleration will likely be the driveline, either the universal joint(s) and/or driveshaft in a rear-wheel-drive unit, or constant velocity joint(s) or axle shafts on a FWD or IRS. I'd still be very suspicious of your u-joint.
Keep the rubber side down.

ljpphoto
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Re: Vibration

Postby ljpphoto » Tue Oct 08, 2013 3:56 pm

If the vibration is in the u-joint, wouldn't it be more pronounced at higher speeds? It seems to be consistent with RPM rather than speed. I did notice a bit of play which seemed to be excessive, when rotating the drive line with the transmission in gear, but it seemed to be in the trans. rather than in the u-joint, which felt tight. I really don't want to tear into this again without knowing for sure what's causing it!

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Sempai
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Re: Vibration

Postby Sempai » Tue Oct 08, 2013 4:46 pm

ljpphoto wrote:... but it seemed to be in the trans. rather than in the u-joint, which felt tight.

Well, this will be a very tough call for you to make. I guess my next question would be: How tight was it?...
with the driveshaft in hand (off the bike,) this joint should almost flop without effort from stop to stop in both directions. Some 'tightness' isn't entirely bad, but it oughtn't require any strength from an outside source (your hand) to move this joint from stop to stop on either axis. If either axis provides sufficient resistance to the flop test, then that joint would be a strong contender as the culprit for a vibration under load (on the throttle.)
Keep the rubber side down.

ljpphoto
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Re: Vibration

Postby ljpphoto » Tue Oct 08, 2013 5:10 pm

By tight, I meant no slop. I didn't actually remove the u-joint, just the drive shaft, then I felt the u-joint while on the bike. Perhaps I have another weekend project coming up.

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Sempai
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Re: Vibration

Postby Sempai » Tue Oct 08, 2013 6:55 pm

This is what the book says:

Inspect the universal joint. There should be no play in the
bearings.
Rotate the shaft and joint in opposite directions. If there is
any evidence of side play, the universal joint must be
replaced.
Apply grease to the splines.

...but there is also the 'Flop test.' Holding one end in each hand flop the joint from stop to stop on one axis, and then stop to stop on the other axis. The movement on these axes should be smooth and near effortless from end to end in both directions on both axes. There shouldn't be any sticktion (feels like grinding) throughout the joint's motions.
Keep the rubber side down.

ljpphoto
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Re: Vibration

Postby ljpphoto » Wed Oct 09, 2013 12:09 am

OK, I think I need to replace my u-joint. Now the big question... where do I get a new one? All I can find in a used one on e-bay with more miles on it than mine! All google does is steer me to forums, nice but if I'm going to go through this yet again, I want a new part in hand to install. This is my commuter vehicle and it can't be out of commission too long. Gas is too expensive to be driving my truck all the time!

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Sempai
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Re: Vibration

Postby Sempai » Wed Oct 09, 2013 7:24 am

You can order the part from any Honda dealership, and here's another option for you, it's the #1 item listed on this page at BikeBandit.com:

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorc ... 8#sch22471
Last edited by Sempai on Wed Oct 09, 2013 7:46 am, edited 1 time in total.
Keep the rubber side down.

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cbx4evr
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Re: Vibration

Postby cbx4evr » Wed Oct 09, 2013 7:42 am

ljpphoto wrote:If I rev the engine while coasting I feel it a little, making me wonder about the timing belts. I have 97k+ miles on the bike and the belts are original. Could this be my vibration problem?



Seems like the vibration problem is under control. After you get that out of the way a timing belt change should be your next project. That's a lot of miles on 25 year old belts.
"It´s a friggen motorcycle, it´s not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you s**t your pants every now and then. "

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Re: Vibration

Postby WingAdmin » Wed Oct 09, 2013 11:14 am

Yeah, order a new one from Honda. This is not a part you want to put used into your bike.

Fortunately they can be had new from Honda. For over a year Honda didn't have them available (supplier issues), and existing stock quickly sold out. There were none to be had, and people had broken 1500's with no way to fix them. A couple people started making kits to replace the non-replaceable, staked bearings in the U-joint with replaceable, serviceable bearings - and I know there is at least one of them still available. You send them your U-joint, they pound out the old bearings, machine new races, and press in a new set.

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Fatwing Chris
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Re: Vibration

Postby Fatwing Chris » Wed Oct 09, 2013 11:29 am

I was lucky when I needed one.My SIL works for Mother Honda in the Alliston Civic Plant.I just look up the part# on HDLParts.com,give him the #,he orders it and I get it within a few days for cost.This is a great setup for me as I have a Honda ATV and a Civic along with the Wing.

Be sure to use good grease(moly 60)on the splines upon reassembly.


If I'da known it would last this long,I'da taken better care of it.
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