GL1500 Stripped oil pan??


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Sempai
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GL1500 Stripped oil pan??

Post by Sempai » Tue Sep 10, 2013 1:19 pm



Does anyone know of a fix for this? My oil drain plug has been getting worse and worse since I first got it...and today she finally just quit getting tight. The bolt is just fine, the threads in the 'pan' are at fault. Is there a kit available to re-thread this hole? All other remedies will be entertained here...


Keep the rubber side down.

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Re: GL1500 Stripped oil pan??

Post by mikelens » Tue Sep 10, 2013 7:04 pm

The following site will give you the available options.
http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/ ... Repair.pdf

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Re: GL1500 Stripped oil pan??

Post by artgrantz » Tue Sep 10, 2013 7:27 pm

I don't have a solution to fix it but it sounds like you have been over tightening it. It isn't holding back any pressure so it just needs to be tight enough so that it doesn't come loose.

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Re: GL1500 Stripped oil pan??

Post by Sempai » Tue Sep 10, 2013 7:41 pm

artgrantz wrote:I don't have a solution to fix it but it sounds like you have been over tightening it. It isn't holding back any pressure so it just needs to be tight enough so that it doesn't come loose.
The plug didn't want to come out the very first time I changed the oil on this bike...it's gotten worse and worse over the years.
Keep the rubber side down.

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Re: GL1500 Stripped oil pan??

Post by Sempai » Tue Sep 10, 2013 7:48 pm

mikelens wrote:The following site will give you the available options.
http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/ ... Repair.pdf
Yeah, I'm familiar with those options...I was hoping to find something a bit more, um...."professional?"
Keep the rubber side down.

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Re: GL1500 Stripped oil pan??

Post by WingAdmin » Tue Sep 10, 2013 8:32 pm

You've got three options:

- Tap the hole out to a larger thread, and use a new, larger bolt for your drain plug

- Put a helicoil in the existing hole

- Weld a nut over the existing hole, and thread the drain plug into it

Of the three, I'd probably go with the first option.

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Re: GL1500 Stripped oil pan??

Post by Sempai » Tue Sep 10, 2013 9:12 pm

WingAdmin wrote:- Weld a nut over the existing hole, and thread the drain plug into it.
I'm liking this option...one of my nearby neighbors has the capacity to weld aluminum...
hmmm, think I'll need to invite him over for a visit.
Keep the rubber side down.

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Re: GL1500 Stripped oil pan??

Post by baumedagn » Wed Sep 11, 2013 7:12 am

Just a suggestion, after you make the repair, be sure to replace the crush washer. I think you need that in order for the plug to tighten up and seal correctly. Good luck.

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Re: GL1500 Stripped oil pan??

Post by Sempai » Wed Sep 11, 2013 11:00 pm

A goldwinger from Steve Saunder's site suggested this, and after looking it over, I think I'm gonna give it a go:

http://www.timesert.com/index.html
Keep the rubber side down.

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Re: GL1500 Stripped oil pan??

Post by WingAdmin » Fri Sep 13, 2013 3:32 pm

Timeserts work well (I used one to repair a blown out spark plug in my old Explorer) but they are NOT cheap.

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Re: GL1500 Stripped oil pan?? Timesert length??

Post by Earl43P » Fri Apr 07, 2017 8:08 am

Mine slipped after nursing it along for 49,000 miles and two years. Blaming the PO of course ;)

I want to buy the Timesert kit and repair it correctly, so I'm asking the collective brain-trust to recommend the length of Timesert to install? Kit comes with M14 x 1.5ss inserts, but they seem incredibly long for that application. I was expecting them to only need to be 1/2" or so. I suppose I could order several lengths, they aren't that expensive.

I'm surely not pulling the plug and draining new oil out until I do the repair. It is leaking and I had to ride the Valyrie IS, woe is me!
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Re: GL1500 Stripped oil pan??

Post by dingdong » Fri Apr 07, 2017 8:39 am

I think the 1.5 may be the pitch of the threads not the length.
Tom

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Re: GL1500 Stripped oil pan??

Post by Earl43P » Fri Apr 07, 2017 9:10 am

You are correct in that statement, but the 4 SS inserts remaining in the kit (a half of retail price, used-once kit on E-Bay) were 28mm long and stainless. Just over an inch long (but less than my exaggeration before I did the math).

Seems long so I opted for the 9.4mm which Amazon carries for a pittance.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003RQ ... ingdocs-20

If it turns out I wasted $5 on two inserts, no big deal.
I also wasn't keen on mating SS into AL and opted for carbon steel which are more readily available.
http://www.timesert.com/html/mtrcsert.html

I'll attempt to measure the depth of the original drain threads (bore length) for future readers who opt to timesert this repair.
I searched a long time trying to find the GL1500 oil drain plug timesert length required , without success here and elsewhere.

In the interim, I'll enjoy riding the Valkyrie IS up to Fredericksburg, Va. today after work to see the Grandkids!
When all else fails, RTFM!

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Re: GL1500 Stripped oil pan?? Timesert length??

Post by Sempai » Fri Apr 07, 2017 9:16 am

Earl43P wrote:I'm asking the collective brain-trust to recommend the length of Timesert
I ordered the Timesert kit they have for the GL1500. The inserts (I think 5 or 6 came in the very nice boxed kit) were just right, they were all the same length.
The problem I did have was with the countersink tool. This piece has a short nub you're supposed to insert into the drilled hole, drill bit included in the kit, and ream the surface of the pan around the new hole to receive and seal the Timesert correctly. The problem was the nub was too long, it bottomed out on whatever portion of the engine block that is directly above the drain hole. I called Timesert and explained the issue. Without any hesitation, they made me a new countersink with a shorter nub and sent it to me, had it the next day!
I have a very nice lift in my garage that gets my bike way up in the air, but even up there and both the front tire and the center stand sitting atop 2x4's for added elevation from the floor of my lift, I found myself bringing the bike back down to earth and laying it over on its left side to more comfortably be able to SEE what I was doing, this added a very comforting assurance that I was hitting the hole square on...pun intended.
After drilling, countersinking, and tapping, I stood the bike back up and flushed the pan with the oil I'd just drained out, poured it in just to allow it to flow right out the large hole. Applied the thread sealing goop, which I'm certain was nothing more than red Locktite, to the Timesert and installed it. Fresh washer and bolt, torqued to spec, and it's as good as new!!
Yay.
Keep the rubber side down.

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Re: GL1500 Stripped oil pan??

Post by Earl43P » Fri Apr 07, 2017 10:32 am

Thank you for that positive feedback.
Your result gives me confidence for a good result.

Funny, I had already decided she was going over on her left side for this repair, solely to let the residual oil flow downhill from the drain and to raise the work up to sitting on a stool level.

If I encounter the long nub problem with my countersink, I'll simply shorten it with my grinding wheel. Appreciate that detail!
^That also reinforces my point that it likely doesn't need an over an inch long timesert, although I'll ream the whole bore. Probably will put a drill-stop on the tap and rethread it as much as the timesert needs and that'll be all.

I'll miss riding the Redwing while it's "down", but not enough to put a rubber expanding plug in that hole.
When all else fails, RTFM!

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Re: GL1500 Stripped oil pan??

Post by Sempai » Fri Apr 07, 2017 5:06 pm

Earl43P wrote:Probably will put a drill-stop on the tap and rethread it as much as the timesert needs and that'll be all.
As I recall, you'll drill through the entire bore of the drain hole. Then the countersink will leave you a shelf at a very specific depth, it simply will not go any deeper as per its design. You'll then tap clean through the new bore and the Timesert comes to a positive STOP when it reaches the countersunk shelf...can't hardly screw it up.
Keep the rubber side down.

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Re: GL1500 Stripped oil pan??

Post by Earl43P » Mon Apr 10, 2017 7:49 pm

"...can't hardly screw it up."

Oh, but I did. That went about as wrongly as humanly possible. :oops:
I had to dig a bit of soil from the side of the driveway edge to get an optimum angle with the drill. No oil came out with bike laid over on its side. Used the tap guide to center the bit. Lined the flutes with grease.
Used light pressure and bursts and pulled out before releasing each burst (not a variable speed drill).
Bit caught on about the fourth go around and cocked, liberating a chunk of the seal face, probably 4 threads deep worth. Likely when it cleared the end of the bore and hit whatever is my guess. Cute little triangular chunk. Figure a clock face, from 9 to 1230-ish.

Guess I'll pick up some two-part metal-set, aluminum two part epoxy "stuff" tomorrow and see if I can get the surfaces de-oiled enough to hold. I'll leave it shy of the face and hope to be able to drill that, tap it etc and the drain plug seal will be from the rim of the slimsert. May build it up flush after that success. Gotta think positively at this low point.





BALLS.
When all else fails, RTFM!

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Re: GL1500 Stripped oil pan??

Post by Bluewaterhooker0 » Mon Apr 10, 2017 8:38 pm

Wow.
That sucks.
A variable speed drill would have gone a long way toward helping your project. I guess you already figured that out. Aluminum is so soft, it has a tendency to bind up on a drill bit at the most inopportune moment. I'll be watching to see your success on this one....I hope. I've got no better suggestions. Maybe some other unfortunate member who's been down this creek will have an idea for you.
Good luck :-(

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Re: GL1500 Stripped oil pan??

Post by Sempai » Mon Apr 10, 2017 8:42 pm

Wow! The chunk that broke off, is it one big piece? If so, think I'd be inclined to weld it back in place. Could do as you were thinking with the 2-part, but maybe use it as a glue to put the missing piece back in place, and weld over the seam?
Keep the rubber side down.

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Re: GL1500 Stripped oil pan??

Post by MikeB » Tue Apr 11, 2017 12:16 am

You're right, that did go badly.

If you go the two part epoxy route, I'd suggest JB Weld as your two part epoxy. It takes about 24 hours to cure. Don't use the JB Quick, it is not as good as the original JB Weld.

Welding it would probably be the best if you have the broken out piece of aluminum but you would either have to take it to a good shop that does aluminum welding or have a mobile welder come to you. Welding aluminum is not something the shade tree mechanic/weekend wrencher should attempt.
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Re: GL1500 Stripped oil pan??

Post by Earl43P » Tue Apr 11, 2017 7:40 am

MikeB wrote:You're right, that did go badly.

If you go the two part epoxy route, I'd suggest JB Weld as your two part epoxy. It takes about 24 hours to cure. Don't use the JB Quick, it is not as good as the original JB Weld.

Snip
I'm a bit more positive in the light of day, but dwelling on it at work.
I did refit the chunk into its former home and believe with a bit of light trimming, it'll bond back into place with the JB Weld and be drillable/tap-able and flat for the plug seal. If that fails, I'll Teflon tape the old drain plug, and use it as the dam filling the bore while I fill that void with JB Weld. Even in the worst case, I still have enough to work with to insert an expandable rubber plug.

I may stop after work and talk the fellas at First Flight Machine Shop about welding it. They are close enough that I could duck walk it to there in a pinch. The lone traffic signal may be challenging....but at 0430 there isn't much traffic.

I'll also have to research what needs disconnected besides the battery before striking an arc.

I lost my good drill when the tornado crushed my garage. C'est la vie. Appreciate the moral support!
When all else fails, RTFM!

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Re: GL1500 Stripped oil pan??

Post by MikeB » Tue Apr 11, 2017 11:38 am

I am sure the JB Weld will hold it. I'd put the material in the joint of the break and then would most likely build up some material behind that chunk of aluminum to give it added strength.
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Re: GL1500 Stripped oil pan??

Post by Earl43P » Wed Apr 26, 2017 7:04 pm

Job went well, see the pictures.





I did file the sealing surface flat (not shown) and added a 1/2" o-ring that nested nicely in the timesert gap (I purposely seated it well below flush as part of my plan D revision 4). No leakage after >200 miles. I used the freshly installed oil to flush out drill debris that the grease in the drill and tap's flutes didn't catch. Then new oil. I had been nursing this plug along for two years, knowing it would strip eventually. It was always hard to start and never went in with fingers at all. Blaming the P.O. of course.

In case anyone is wondering, a Goldwing laid on its left side wont leak any oil out of the drain. Mine laid on the side of the driveway for over a week (waiting on the Timesert kit) for the neighbors to gawk at.

Anybody ever needing a drain plug Timesert installed, holler. I'll send you the kit with one perfect size timesert (and 5 that are way too long). 14mm x 1.0 (I JB Welded that timesert's threads in too, so it can never loosen or leak. That hole bore "had issues" after the drill bucked on me, necessitating Plans B and C.

Measure and USE A DRILL STOP, duh. Hindsight being 20/20 and all.
When all else fails, RTFM!

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Re: GL1500 Stripped oil pan??

Post by MikeB » Wed Apr 26, 2017 7:40 pm

Great job Earl. You can be proud of your accomplishment.
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Re: GL1500 Stripped oil pan??

Post by Sempai » Thu Apr 27, 2017 4:47 pm

VICTORY!!!
Nice job!


Keep the rubber side down.

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