1500 ALT SLIP RING REMOVAL


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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TerryRuth
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1500 ALT SLIP RING REMOVAL

Postby TerryRuth » Sat Jul 12, 2014 2:34 pm



how do you get the slip rings ( brush contacts ) off of the armature?
Terry



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ct1500
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Re: 1500 ALT SLIP RING REMOVAL

Postby ct1500 » Sat Jul 12, 2014 3:16 pm

They would likely be pressed on and maybe glued but the real question is why? There are no user serviceable parts, if you have diagnosed failure to rotor it is replaced as a unit unless something simple like a solder joint. If you plan on rewinding that is an art unto itself, your regular alternator shop will not attempt that as its far cheaper to replace compared to labor/copper cost involved.

Alternator rotor work will require pullers/installers, blocking/holding attachments and likely a press.
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TerryRuth
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Re: 1500 ALT SLIP RING REMOVAL

Postby TerryRuth » Sat Jul 12, 2014 4:14 pm

ct1500 wrote:They would likely be pressed on and maybe glued but the real question is why? There are no user serviceable parts, if you have diagnosed failure to rotor it is replaced as a unit unless something simple like a solder joint. If you plan on rewinding that is an art unto itself, your regular alternator shop will not attempt that as its far cheaper to replace compared to labor/copper cost involved.

Alternator rotor work will require pullers/installers, blocking/holding attachments and likely a press.

THERE IS A REPAIR............SEE BLOG........AMATURE REBUILDING but no info on slip ring removal

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ct1500
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Re: 1500 ALT SLIP RING REMOVAL

Postby ct1500 » Sat Jul 12, 2014 10:05 pm

viewtopic.php?t=18463

The man obviously has some experience and the tools to take apart the rotor. He even cautions if the break is not near the top within a couple turns of wire to not proceed so this may or may not be your issue. Without the proper tools you will not get very far and likely break/bend something in the process. If you even nick a wire of the winding you can consider it toast. Rotor/stator/motor winding is an art not easily learned.

With that said and from my experience rebuilding to the major component level (regulators, stators, rotors, diode plates, brushes, bearings) remove end bearing using your puller and unsolder 2 wires to slip rings (if removing bearing you might as well replace). First measure or mark slip ring assembly so it can be reinstalled back at the exact same spot on shaft so brushes will align again. I would very carefully put your small puller under slip ring shield at the puller notches and remove that way. Picture shown is slide hammer set-up for bearing removal of a 1500 rotor.
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Big Bob
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Re: 1500 ALT SLIP RING REMOVAL

Postby Big Bob » Sun Jul 13, 2014 9:14 am

After my experiences from 2 years ago I would not rebuild an alternator for $150 (shop cost) when I could purchase a brand new alternator for $135! That new alternator is working great, I definitely lost faith in my local alternator repair shop after r&r the old one 3 times. Just my opinion. Good luck!

Bob
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'96 GL1500A Aspencade, Red The Best Color!
143,000 miles and still going strong!
A bad day off is better than your best day at work!

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ct1500
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Re: 1500 ALT SLIP RING REMOVAL

Postby ct1500 » Sun Jul 13, 2014 8:12 pm

Big Bob wrote:After my experiences from 2 years ago I would not rebuild an alternator for $150 (shop cost) when I could purchase a brand new alternator for $135!


I would agree. The article has some esoteric merit but rotors are generally not designed to be user/field servicable in a cost effective or easily dealt with manner. By the time frustration sets in messing with a pressed together rotor full of glue, wire and shellac you could be out riding grinning from ear to ear. And if it was the later year chinlee rotor they were junk to start with and would likely pop again at a different location from cheap wire.


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