1992 1500 SE inquiry


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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hap2
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Motorcycle: 1992 GoldWing 1500SE

1992 1500 SE inquiry

Postby hap2 » Sat Jul 12, 2014 10:06 pm



Is a 1992 1500SE pre-wired for a voltmeter?

If so, where & how can I get at it to putta voltmeter in?

Thank you



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minimac
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Re: 1992 1500 SE inquiry

Postby minimac » Sun Jul 13, 2014 8:16 am

Sorry, 1500s aren't pre-wired for a volt meter. Do a search on the site and you'll see what others have done.

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hap2
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Re: 1992 1500 SE inquiry

Postby hap2 » Sun Jul 13, 2014 10:26 am

Ok.. I was hoping..but thanx

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Mh434
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Re: 1992 1500 SE inquiry

Postby Mh434 » Sun Jul 13, 2014 1:35 pm

I added one to my '97 SE. My left fairing pocket has a power bar installed, with both switched & always-on power and a ground point available. Mine is a digital LED thermometer (not particularly useful)/voltmeter. Since a lot of the voltmeters on Ebay aren't necessarily waterproof, I used "liquid electrical tape" (basically, PlastiDip in a small can, with an applicator brush) to seal up its seams as best I could. I mounted it to the face of the fairing between the left fairing pocket cover and the CB radio, using a patch of Velcro. This way, when I wash the bike (or I'm riding in a downpour - I live on the Wet Coast, after all!) I can just rip it off & stuff it in the fairing pocket.

I wired mine to the switched side of the power bar. I don't know how much current its display uses, but I only want it on when the ignition is on, just to be on the safe side. My voltmeter reads low, by about .2 to .3 volts, compared to battery readings from a known-accurate multimeter. So, it's an indicator of the status of the charging system, but nothing more.

Personally, I'm not a fan of the ones with a series of LED's, with .5 volt or (even 1.0 volt) segments. In my view, +/- 1.0 volts is a BIG gap, too much for my comfort level.

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hap2
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Re: 1992 1500 SE inquiry

Postby hap2 » Sun Jul 13, 2014 1:58 pm

Thank ya. But basically, I just wanna how to find out if I'm good to go on a 400 mile round trip (basically 800 mi altogether).

I put the load tester on the battery (which is currently out of the bike & been on a 2 AMP charger for 15 hrs now)...Here's the readings:
Just hooked up without the load test, just under 13 V

Hooked up under the 10 sec load test, 11 V

I reckon I'll put it back in the bike, start the bike then remove the negative cable & see if the bike keeps running. If it does, I reckon the alternator is still good.

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redial
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Re: 1992 1500 SE inquiry

Postby redial » Sun Jul 13, 2014 9:38 pm

The 1500 alternator is just a basic alternator (good enough to power the standard electrical requirements of the 1500, but a compromise between cost and functionality). You mention that you have some extra lights, and that could be part of the downfall. If you have proved that the alternator is good, and you believe that your battery is good, and the connections are all good, I would say that you are running your electrical system than it is higher consumption than the electrical system can deliver. Short runs are not good in any situation, and you would need to ride it for about 30 minutes for the electrical power that you consumed when starting it, to be topped back up, especially since you have additional load on the alternator than the stock standard.

If your alternator cannot keep up with the load, then there are two options: 1. reduce the number of lights; or, 2. get a replacement alternator, (and possibly AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) battery to go with it). A GW alternator specialist is Ken Hemming, and he will either sell you a new one; a reconditioned one; or rebuild yours. However, if you want to have security, I would be asking the specialist for one with greater power output. Like most things, if you run them flat out all the time, they wear quicker, so the idea would be to get one with some reserve left after meeting your load, so that it does not have to run flat out all the time to meet the demand.

HTH
Len in Kapunda

The world is not going to finish today, as it is already tomorrow in Australia and New Zealand, and other islands of foreign nations such as Guam and Samoa.

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hap2
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Re: 1992 1500 SE inquiry

Postby hap2 » Sun Jul 13, 2014 9:47 pm

Thank you for the reply. Ya, I think we're talking a higher-output alternator, esp as I do use reverse alot & I have a trailer with 6 lights on it alone. Also, I watched the video (pasted below), & that confirmed what u said. I just wonder now if I can get it rebuilt to put out 90 amps?

Here b the video link:




ttul

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Mh434
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Re: 1992 1500 SE inquiry

Postby Mh434 » Mon Jul 14, 2014 12:21 am

I believe it's possible to rebuild & get a little more out of the stock alternator, but the cost might turn out to be more than a brand new, high-output one.

Here's an analogy - say you have a pickup truck, with the smallest engine available, and you're hauling max loads with it all the time. When it wears out, are you better off to rebuild the original, marginal engine, or to put in a new, bigger engine, that will do the job with ease, for less money?

I'm in the same boat (not quite as bad, yet) and, after doing a bunch of research, I just bought a brand new LActrical 95 amp (vs. the OEM 40 amp) alternator, for less than the cost of rebuilding my old, underpowered one. IIRC, it was around the $160 mark. I had already installed a new AGM battery, as the marginal alternator had killed my Odyssey AGM one.

Just my humble opinion....

OnPapasWing
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Re: 1992 1500 SE inquiry

Postby OnPapasWing » Mon Jul 14, 2014 4:32 am

I suspect that I, too, will be replacing the alternator. While riding the charge is fine with readings near 13.8 volts. When I stop for a light and have a hand on the brake I see the voltage start to drop below 12 volts. Remove the brake lever and voltage creeps back up. I'll likely be changing brake lights to LEDs. Both may be a winter project.
Keep us posted what you end up doing.

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Mh434
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Re: 1992 1500 SE inquiry

Postby Mh434 » Mon Jul 14, 2014 10:17 am

OnPapasWing, that's precisely what mine is doing. As I've ordered a set of heated grips, there's no point in installing them without the new alternator as, at idle, the grip system would shut down due to inadequate voltage. I'd like to add driving lights, too. I keep hearing of people running all this stuff & still cranking out 13.5 volts at idle - I'm jealous! So, the new alternator is going in.




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