Frozen fork drain bolt


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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bcarnold
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Motorcycle: 1992 GL1500A Aspencade

Frozen fork drain bolt

Postby bcarnold » Thu Sep 25, 2014 6:27 pm



I removed the front tire on my 92 Aspencade to drain and refill the forks. I was able to loosen the drain bolt on the left side without too much trouble, but on the right side the allen wrench just spun in the socket head bolt.

I am going to end up removing the fork in order to work on removing the bolt, It appears to be so far up the fork that a standard EZ out will not work. I know I am not the only one for this to have happend to, what have others used to remove the frozen bolt.

Thanks for your time.

Bob



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Happytrails
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Motorcycle: 1991 Goldwing 1500 SE

Re: Frozen fork drain bolt

Postby Happytrails » Thu Sep 25, 2014 8:55 pm

I thoughts the drain bolt was bottom anti-dive bolt? The bolts your trying to get loose are at bottom of fork leg and hold upper fork tubes on?
1991 GL1500 SE Anniversary Edition
Sun Flare Gold Metallic
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dingdong
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Re: Frozen fork drain bolt

Postby dingdong » Fri Sep 26, 2014 7:12 am

An impact driver will loosen that bolt if you haven't stripped it yet. If that doesn't work you can drill the head off, remove the lower and then remove the threaded part of the bolt with vice grips. Happytrails is correct that isn't the drain bolt. What's in a name?
Tom

A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

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Davek80514
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Re: Frozen fork drain bolt

Postby Davek80514 » Fri Sep 26, 2014 9:27 am


This is what you need!
(Click the picture!)
Image

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HawkeyeGL1200
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1981 GL1100 Interstate

Re: Frozen fork drain bolt

Postby HawkeyeGL1200 » Fri Sep 26, 2014 6:14 pm

One thing you may want to try is the next size up SAE allen wrench and an impact driver, as suggested previously... PB Blaster won't hurt, for sure... I would try a slightly larger allen wrench (the 1200's take a 6mm [.243"], I think, and when they are enlarged a 1/4" [.250"] will often work to get the bolt out) and then if you have to, do the drilling carefully.

An impact driver is an essential tool for motorcycle maintenance, especially on older bikes. It is best to make sure you have the best fit possible, use a firm grip on the impact driver and whack it with a fairly large hammer (one time vs lots of hits with a smaller hammer) for best results. It is also helpful, in most cases, to use a little thread lubricant on bolts when installing, unless they call for a "loctite" type product, to facilitate removal in the future. Most "mechanics" tend to overtighten small bolting, and undertighten large bolting when they rely on "feel" to get the correct bolt pre-load. That's why I like to use a torque wrench when putting critical joints together... and on a motorcycle, most joints can be considered critical.
I am wrong as often as I am right concerning what is wrong with someone else' motorcycle without having seen the machine in person. Guessing with limited information, as to the source of the trouble, is sketchy at best.

bcarnold
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Location: Los Angeles, Ca
Motorcycle: 1992 GL1500A Aspencade

Re: Frozen fork drain bolt

Postby bcarnold » Sat Sep 27, 2014 1:43 am

I did some further research and found that the bolt that is accessed from the bottom of the fork is for securing the upper fork assembly. I was mistakenly under the impression from reading a post on one website that it was a drain bolt.

Well I still need to remove the forks, I found that one of them is leaking.

Thanks for the help

Bob

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Wingsconsin
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Re: Frozen fork drain bolt

Postby Wingsconsin » Mon Sep 29, 2014 9:52 am

I am also in the middle of a fork removal to replace the seals...
Currently all I have done is remove the rotor covers, and the fender halves, and the brake calipers are next --
Then the forks ...
Postings are my opinions based on experience and acquired knowledge.
Your results may vary. Universal disclaimers apply.


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MikeB
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Re: Frozen fork drain bolt

Postby MikeB » Mon Sep 29, 2014 8:25 pm

The last couple of fork tube bolts I had to remove for friends were much the same as you have described.
A lot of people try the "L" hex wrench instead of going right to the impact driver to remove those bolts and end up rounding out the socket head bolt.

What works quite well are the square ended screw extractors.

Most to the time, no drilling is necessary. Just drive the proper sized screw extractor into the socket head bolt with your ball-peen hammer and use a wrench to rotate the screw extractor. It should work for you too.
MikeB
Tacoma, WA, USA

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dingdong
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Re: Frozen fork drain bolt

Postby dingdong » Tue Sep 30, 2014 9:29 am

If I'm not mistaken accessible through the anti-dive opening on the fork there is a hole through the slider that you can insert a dowel or a screwdriver to hold it while you loosen the bolt. Going by memory here.
Tom

A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

bcarnold
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Location: Los Angeles, Ca
Motorcycle: 1992 GL1500A Aspencade

Re: Frozen fork drain bolt

Postby bcarnold » Mon Oct 13, 2014 12:14 am

I received the seals and new springs and installed them today and used ATF instead of fork oil and the bike does have a nice feel to it again. Actually better that when I got it 4+ years ago.
I took one suggestion and drilled the head of the frozen bolt head off, that suggestion alone made life so much easier.
I have only one question, Does the fork oil remain at 320mm and 325mm as shown in the Clymers manual

Thanks again for your suggestions.

Bob

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wingpilot08
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Re: Frozen fork drain bolt

Postby wingpilot08 » Mon Oct 13, 2014 7:06 am

I had a similar issue on my right fork...also currently replacing the seals and bushings. I applied the PB Blaster for overnight and it was still frozen...used a torch and applied heat and the bolt came loose. I have since ordered two new bolts..just to be safe..it felt like one bolt was on the verge of rounding out and for $12 its peace of mind. Hopefully will have everything back together this weekend...rebuilt forks, new tires (front & rear) new brakes (front & rear) speedbleeders, new brake fluids! Its gonna feel like a new bike!!


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