Alternator Again


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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TAZZ
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1986 Kawasaki Ninja 1000R
1981 Honda CBX (not for sale)
1982 Honda GL1100 Aspencade 1994 Yamaha700

Alternator Again

Postby TAZZ » Sun Oct 19, 2014 3:38 pm



Hi All a question about alternator again I have TWO 40 amps I was think about buy a 90 amps LActrical Alternator but then I will have 3 that too much so here the ? down by my home there is an alternator shop and they will take one off my stock 40amps and upgrade it to 90amps has any of you try this with your shock alternator is it safe to do this what was your pro and con on this. Will the 40amps run for ever as long as we keep on it with the maintenaces



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flyinrob
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Re: Alternator Again

Postby flyinrob » Sun Oct 19, 2014 7:22 pm

Hiya Tazz..

Ok, here is what I would do, and again, this is just my opinion, others may recommend something else.
First off I have never heard of a 40 amp being rebuilt into a 90 amp so can't comment there.
If you have any thoughts of adding extra lighting, heating, etc., I would go ahead and get an 85 or 95 amp from LActrical. Also invest in an AGM battery if you haven't already. Then I would maybe keep one of the 40 amp's as a spare and maybe sell the other 40 amp to someone who may need one.

Hope this helps ya...

Rob

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TAZZ
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Joined: Tue Aug 25, 2009 11:46 am
Location: Del Rey CA
Motorcycle: 1997 Honda GL1500se
1968 Honda CL350 Scramble,
1970Honda 750k,1976 Suzuki GT550,
1979 Kawasaki 1000st, 1983 Suzuki GS1150se
1986 Kawasaki Ninja 1000R
1981 Honda CBX (not for sale)
1982 Honda GL1100 Aspencade 1994 Yamaha700

Re: Alternator Again

Postby TAZZ » Mon Oct 27, 2014 11:51 am

Thank All for reading my question I guess none off you have done this to your 40amp alternator or have an opinion if this can be done if is a good way to go or not.

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Bigbiker0
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Re: Alternator Again

Postby Bigbiker0 » Mon Nov 03, 2014 6:52 am

I don't understand the need to upgrade the alt. On my GW i have a pair of garbing glove,a powerlet jacket,a garmin 660 GPS,a iphone 4S all plug together and my voltmeter show 14.5 during riding and 12.7 v. on idle. I could have my wife plugged as I am and still have plenty of power.
Drive safely Heaven do not exist.

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WingAdmin
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Re: Alternator Again

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Nov 03, 2014 1:05 pm

Bigbiker0 wrote:I don't understand the need to upgrade the alt. On my GW i have a pair of garbing glove,a powerlet jacket,a garmin 660 GPS,a iphone 4S all plug together and my voltmeter show 14.5 during riding and 12.7 v. on idle. I could have my wife plugged as I am and still have plenty of power.


Heat is the enemy of alternators (and most electronics). The closer to capacity you run an alternator, the more heat it is going to generate - primarily due to the resistance related to the gauge of winding wires used, but also due to the capacity of the regulator.

Running an OEM alternator near its 40 amp capacity almost all the time means it is generating a lot of heat, all the time.

Running an aftermarket 95 amp alternator, pulling the same 40 amps, means it is running at less than half of its capacity, meaning it is generating very little heat.

Which one will last longer?

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Vito
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Re: Alternator Again

Postby Vito » Mon Nov 03, 2014 7:36 pm

...and when I to change an alternator, csn I leave my battery or need to change for another? In my Bike i have new Yuasa Yumicron Y50-N18L-A3. Thanks.

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Re: Alternator Again

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Nov 03, 2014 9:22 pm

Vito wrote:...and when I to change an alternator, csn I leave my battery or need to change for another? In my Bike i have new Yuasa Yumicron Y50-N18L-A3. Thanks.


They recommend you change to an AGM battery when changing to a high-power alternator.

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Vito
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Re: Alternator Again

Postby Vito » Mon Nov 03, 2014 10:51 pm

My bike is 1988, if I go changing an alternator, can this be danger for cables, connectors and all electricity? I mean, wires are old and when I put more power to them... of course not after changing an alternator, suddenly, but in long term... Do GL 1500 have a weak spot when doing such a modernization?

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gordonv
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Re: Alternator Again

Postby gordonv » Mon Nov 03, 2014 11:28 pm

On answer to your original post, no experience with a high output alt.

But if you want one, I would be more inclined to buy a new or used one, and sell you 2 work OEM alts to recover some of the cost.

But a question of whether or not you need one, is the bigger question.

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Vito
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Re: Alternator Again

Postby Vito » Tue Nov 04, 2014 1:31 am

Question is good but answer is better :D yeah, i need new alt because i saw, when riding, that the battery need to be recharge once in month. Battery is new. But i ride with speed max 80 km/h, 5,6 times in month and not so away from home :lol: Thats why i need new power source. I decided to buy a new alternator.

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gordonv
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Re: Alternator Again

Postby gordonv » Tue Nov 04, 2014 10:28 pm

Is the bike stock? No extra lights, or heated gear, causing you battery to need charging once a month?

Even though you have a new battery, if the alternator tests out as per the manual, page 7-17, 900 rpm or 1850 rpm, volt should be between 13.5-15.5 . If the alt is putting out the power, then the battery could still be a problem.

I've read about a lot of people having bad batteries even though they are new, most likely because they where not charged correctly. Have never heard this happening with a car battery, but seems to be a big issue with motorcycles.

I forget the details, but it needs to be slow charged for 24 hours. Not just charged for an hour, and then put in the vehicle to be charged there over time. You are describing what was happening with my battery on my V-twin, it was both the regulator not always putting out the proper power, and the battery not having much life in it. Went on a 800 KM ride on a Monday, and Wednesday had to jump start the bike.

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Vito
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Re: Alternator Again

Postby Vito » Wed Nov 05, 2014 2:41 am

Hi, just like You said, no extras, Salesman said that battery is new but... s..t happens. I've checked the battery company - so it isnt any cheap battery. But something was strange. Ive buy a bike, make a little ride, about 30 KM, put in into a garage. Few days later bike wont start. So check the battery... uuups 11.7. Recharge with current 1A for about 24 hrs. Bike is back to life... next month this same...

So thats what im gonna to do assuming that battery and alternator are ok:

1. Im gonna check charging voltage on idle and 1850 rpm,
2. recharge battery with current 1A and for 16 hours

And here we comes to one possible issue: what if any of electrical equipment on my bike extract battery when bike is in the garage? Which way can I check that? Can i put multimeter between the battery and bikes circuit? Which worth of current schould i see on amperemeter?

Btw i've read about some issue in our Goldwings: somebody wrote that because original alternator is only 40 amps, and when You ride not so often, then alt has no chance to proper recharge the battery... maybe thats it...

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Re: Alternator Again

Postby WingAdmin » Wed Nov 05, 2014 9:26 am

Vito wrote:And here we comes to one possible issue: what if any of electrical equipment on my bike extract battery when bike is in the garage? Which way can I check that? Can i put multimeter between the battery and bikes circuit? Which worth of current schould i see on amperemeter?

Btw i've read about some issue in our Goldwings: somebody wrote that because original alternator is only 40 amps, and when You ride not so often, then alt has no chance to proper recharge the battery... maybe thats it...


The only thing that should be pulling current when the bike is off is the clock - and the amount of power it pulls is minute. Lead acid batteries will also lose charge over time if not being float charged.

The issue you state is not just applicable to Goldwings - any bike or car can have this issue. Starting a car or bike takes a tremendous amount of current, and it takes some time for the alternator to recharge the battery to recover from that. If you continually start the engine without a good 5-10 minutes of charging, you'll eventually run the battery down.

Really, the best thing you can do is buy a Battery Tender and leave it connected all winter long. That will keep your battery fully charged and in top shape. I leave mine connected pretty much all year round whenever my bikes (and everything else that has a lead-acid battery) are parked in the garage.

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robb
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Re: Alternator Again

Postby robb » Wed Nov 05, 2014 10:04 am

Vito wrote:...and when I to change an alternator, csn I leave my battery or need to change for another? In my Bike i have new Yuasa Yumicron Y50-N18L-A3. Thanks.


Been running a 90 amp since 2010 and using a $50 battery from Walmart. Had to buy a battery to get bike home after purchase. No problems yet and no trickle charger but it is ran often enough to maintain.

Only way to get 90 amp from a 40 amp alternator is to use core and do a total rewire, often more costly than buying a new one.

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Vito
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Re: Alternator Again

Postby Vito » Wed Nov 05, 2014 7:08 pm

robb wrote:
Vito wrote:...and when I to change an alternator, csn I leave my battery or need to change for another? In my Bike i have new Yuasa Yumicron Y50-N18L-A3. Thanks.


Been running a 90 amp since 2010 and using a $50 battery from Walmart. Had to buy a battery to get bike home after purchase. No problems yet and no trickle charger but it is ran often enough to maintain.

Only way to get 90 amp from a 40 amp alternator is to use core and do a total rewire, often more costly than buying a new one.


Well, i want to purchase a brand new 90 Amps alternator. I have no experience in rebuild an old alt. Want to guestion: Goldwings Alternators are the same construction in bikes from 1988 to 2000?

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Vito
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Re: Alternator Again

Postby Vito » Wed Nov 05, 2014 7:48 pm

WingAdmin wrote:
Vito wrote:And here we comes to one possible issue: what if any of electrical equipment on my bike extract battery when bike is in the garage? Which way can I check that? Can i put multimeter between the battery and bikes circuit? Which worth of current schould i see on amperemeter?

Btw i've read about some issue in our Goldwings: somebody wrote that because original alternator is only 40 amps, and when You ride not so often, then alt has no chance to proper recharge the battery... maybe thats it...


The only thing that should be pulling current when the bike is off is the clock - and the amount of power it pulls is minute. Lead acid batteries will also lose charge over time if not being float charged.

The issue you state is not just applicable to Goldwings - any bike or car can have this issue. Starting a car or bike takes a tremendous amount of current, and it takes some time for the alternator to recharge the battery to recover from that. If you continually start the engine without a good 5-10 minutes of charging, you'll eventually run the battery down.

Really, the best thing you can do is buy a Battery Tender and leave it connected all winter long. That will keep your battery fully charged and in top shape. I leave mine connected pretty much all year round whenever my bikes (and everything else that has a lead-acid battery) are parked in the garage.


Hi thanks for a good advice. I have found on eBay.de some of the Battery Tender. I think that this unit solve the problem. Im a new in GL world, not much experience in it and have made few mistakes, for example: when starting a bike, it was choked too long :roll: .

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gordonv
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Re: Alternator Again

Postby gordonv » Wed Nov 05, 2014 8:56 pm

That page I said to look at in the GW Service Manual, shows how and what should be the Amps.

I mixed the numbers, should have been page 17-7.

Leakage test says it should be 5 mm A max. (that is 5 mili amps, not 5 Amps).

Like WingAdmin said, it is only powering the clock memory. Anything larger, and there is something shorting out.

A stock bike should need more than the stock alternator. I really don't care if you buy a higher output alt or not, I have nothing invested in it. What I would hate to see you do is to buy a new alt and find out everything is the same. You didn't find the problem.

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Vito
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Re: Alternator Again

Postby Vito » Thu Nov 06, 2014 2:51 am

Hello, I`ve bought a Owners Workshop Manual by Haynes and i`ve found this data in chapter 9.

Forgive my but i`m learning Englisch yet, what You understand under: A stock bike / A stock bike should need more than the stock alternator.

I appreciate Your concern, it`s rare. But don`t You worry, i wont do anything stupid. Thats why i`m in this Forum which is something incredible. You guys shows just another world of helping...

I order Battery Tender, will go this way and see for results. Maybe someday, when i get around to make my bike a little christmas tree :idea: :D , will go back to alt thing. Thanks gordonv.




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