1500 Winterizing


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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Mag
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1500 Winterizing

Postby Mag » Sat Nov 01, 2014 10:41 am



So, saw the link for the 1100 on the newsletter (yes, I pay attention) but it must be the autism my kids gave me, I need things literal (hence why the instructions on this site are so fantastic!).

I did a quick look through the 1500 How To to see if I can find winterizing for the 1500.....did not find it. What does everyone do for their 1500s? LI am already at the winterizing moment here in the NW (thanks to the rain, etc., etc., lots of hydroplaning) so looking for some direction.

Thx as always!



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redial
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Re: 1500 Winterizing

Postby redial » Mon Nov 03, 2014 1:04 am

To winterize here, I put some warmer clothes on :D , but then we live in the driest State of the driest inhabited continent, so a couple days of rain rarely makes it bad enough to 'winterize' the bike, just rug up a bit more.

Up until 2Nov14, we had had 360mm of rain (no snow, no ice, no salt) which is about 14inches for those still relying on the distance between their wrist and their pulse to measure these things :lol:
Len in Kapunda

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Re: 1500 Winterizing

Postby Bigbiker0 » Mon Nov 03, 2014 6:57 am

For me I change oil and oil filter,fill up gaz tank and remove the battery.I prefer to keep it in my heated garage and give it a charge time to time.
Drive safely Heaven do not exist.

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Re: 1500 Winterizing

Postby FM-USA » Mon Nov 03, 2014 12:59 pm

In N.E. Illinois I layer up the clothes and keep riding.
Going on my 3rd winter now.
Last winter was a BRUTE! at 21'F below.
"OIL CHANGE?" _FM 07-2009
Know its new taste and be loyal, you'll know when to change that oil.
Taste testing as the miles flow, souring as that acid grows.
And don't flirt with dirt or darkened oil, all the faster your engine will spoil.

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Re: 1500 Winterizing

Postby Mag » Mon Nov 03, 2014 11:34 pm

So....I can....
- Change oil, fill tank, trickle charge the battery
- Move to Australia
- Keep riding

Hmmmm ;) All three are great ideas!
- First one is practical.
- Second one my wife would love.
- Third one I could do but then I need hydroplaning equipment to make it through my commute, lol.

Hence why I like this board :D

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Re: 1500 Winterizing

Postby gordonv » Mon Nov 03, 2014 11:47 pm

When I removed the insurance for the winter months, I would fill the tank at the gas station, add in 1/2 can of Seafoam, and ride it home and but the bike away for the winter. This would insure the mixture was in the carbs.

Remove the battery and bring it inside and place it on a battery maintainer.

Time to start the bike again. Put the battery back in, jump the fuel pump relay so the carbs will be primed. Then start the bike up.

Take it for a ride, and when done, top up the tank.

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Re: 1500 Winterizing

Postby FM-USA » Tue Nov 04, 2014 8:45 am

Mag wrote:So....I can....
- Change oil, fill tank, trickle charge the battery
- Move to Australia
- Keep riding

Hmmmm ;) All three are great ideas!
- First one is practical.
- Second one my wife would love.
- Third one I could do but then I need hydroplaning equipment to make it through my commute, lol.

Hence why I like this board :D

Would this help you on your Hydroplaning dilemma?
"OIL CHANGE?" _FM 07-2009
Know its new taste and be loyal, you'll know when to change that oil.
Taste testing as the miles flow, souring as that acid grows.
And don't flirt with dirt or darkened oil, all the faster your engine will spoil.

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Re: 1500 Winterizing

Postby Mag » Tue Nov 04, 2014 11:29 pm

FM - ha!!!!sure would......as long as there is steering on the thing, it would really help. Actually, supposed to be dry toward end of week, I just may take her out for another run on Friday/Saturday, get the last digs in.

Gordon - that is pretty straight fwd, I figure as long as I due a new oil change in then that should cover it. Sounds like a deal to me, thx for that.

I also have a couple "fix-its" that I need to do (front brakes, timing belt) and that should be all set for next spring....oh, and hang 3 new shop lights so I can see ;)

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Re: 1500 Winterizing

Postby gordonv » Wed Nov 05, 2014 9:03 pm

6 of this, half a dozen of that, with regards to the oil change. Some like to do it before storage, some do it at the start of the season.

I went with the once a year oil change. Rotella T5 (?), then T6 for the first time next year.

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Re: 1500 Winterizing

Postby Mag » Wed Nov 05, 2014 11:37 pm

Ya, I am picking up T6 for this next year, though the Mobil1 I put in the cars and they made a HUGE difference. Sounds like a lot of us will be "wrenching" in the cold, but we will see.

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Re: 1500 Winterizing

Postby WingAdmin » Thu Nov 06, 2014 11:41 am

gordonv wrote:6 of this, half a dozen of that, with regards to the oil change. Some like to do it before storage, some do it at the start of the season.

I went with the once a year oil change. Rotella T5 (?), then T6 for the first time next year.


It really is important to do the oil change at the end of season before storage. Otherwise you are leaving acidic, corrosive oil sitting in your crankcase all winter long, causing etching and corrosion. Whether you "like" to do it one way or another is up to you, one way causes damage, the other doesn't.

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Re: 1500 Winterizing

Postby gordonv » Thu Nov 06, 2014 8:15 pm

If I remember my High School auto correctly, those acids and such, are caused by water (condensation) in the oil.

They can all be burned out by a nice long drive. I usually end up going for a last drive before taking the bike off the road, about 200 miles.

Now, with my current bike, I leave it insured year around, and take it out for coffee runs during the winter. Usually a good 50 miles each way. I also pre warm the bike before the ride.

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Re: 1500 Winterizing

Postby WingAdmin » Thu Nov 06, 2014 9:15 pm

gordonv wrote:If I remember my High School auto correctly, those acids and such, are caused by water (condensation) in the oil.

They can all be burned out by a nice long drive. I usually end up going for a last drive before taking the bike off the road, about 200 miles.

Now, with my current bike, I leave it insured year around, and take it out for coffee runs during the winter. Usually a good 50 miles each way. I also pre warm the bike before the ride.


Moisture (not necessarily condensation - just water molecules) in the oil can cause acidity, but moisture itself is not what becomes acidic - it's just part of (and facilitates) the reaction that creates the acids. Getting the engine oil hot to evaporate moisture gets rid of that moisture, but not the acids that have been chemically formed. More importantly, as long as the engine is running, it is continually introducing more moisture into the oil, because water is a major byproduct of combustion, and part of this water is introduced into the crankcase as piston blowby. So if the engine has been run with oil in it, that oil has moisture in it.

Some of the acids in the oil we're looking to combat over the winter months come from the soot particles, a byproduct of combustion, which is also what turns the oil black. This is primarily oxidation, wherein hydrocarbons combine chemically with wear metals, solid contamination, and moisture, to form second and third derivative products, including several different acids. Running your engine under heavy load accelerates this process exponentially - heat and pressure both accelerate the reactions. This oxidation is accelerated tremendously when large amounts of moisture is present in the oil.

Heat and pressure in the combustion chamber also cause atmospheric nitrogen to break down and combine with oxygen, creating nitric oxides (NO). This combines with moisture in the oil to become HNO2, or nitrous acid.

And lastly, gasoline contains sulfur. In parts of the country where gasoline has a high sulfur content (and all of Canada, where gasoline has an extremely high sulfur content) you have even more of a problem. Sulfur molecules react with oxygen in the combustion chamber to form sulfur oxides. These sulfur oxides are then blown past the rings and enter the oil. Here the sulfur oxides mix with moisture to form the highly corrosive sulfuric acid - battery acid.

Oil manufacturers create a base alkalinity in fresh oil along with detergents to try to combat this, but as the acids build up, it will eventually bring the pH down to a point where the oil is quite acidic and damaging. It's your choice whether or not you choose to leave this acidic and oxidizing stew sitting in your engine all winter long. I know for me, I change my oil before putting my bike away for the winter.

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Re: 1500 Winterizing

Postby bstig60 » Thu Nov 06, 2014 11:06 pm

If you are in a cold climate, you should check to make sure the coolant will withstand the cold. I just changed the oil and filter on my bike today, but the old oil had nearly 4000 miles on it and I am going on a short 300+ mile trip tomorrow afternoon. I may do things a little differently, but I will ride off and on all winter as the weather permits. At the very least, I run the bike every couple of weeks until it is thoroughly warmed up even if I am not going anywhere. Here in NoCal our winters are pretty mild.
Bill

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Re: 1500 Winterizing

Postby Mag » Thu Nov 06, 2014 11:59 pm

Due to the weather here, mostly rain but we get some pretty good ice also (not like what I have seen on the pics last winter), I will not be able to plan on when to get the bike out. If I am doing the timing belt, I will probably do the oil at the same time (thx to Cyclemax for the kit), so we will see.

I did not find a good list on the 1500s though I did find a tutorial on the 1100, so will continue to look at the instructions to see what I can piece together. I do a lot better with pictures, than words.....

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Re: 1500 Winterizing

Postby WingAdmin » Fri Nov 07, 2014 10:33 am

Mag wrote:Due to the weather here, mostly rain but we get some pretty good ice also (not like what I have seen on the pics last winter), I will not be able to plan on when to get the bike out. If I am doing the timing belt, I will probably do the oil at the same time (thx to Cyclemax for the kit), so we will see.

I did not find a good list on the 1500s though I did find a tutorial on the 1100, so will continue to look at the instructions to see what I can piece together. I do a lot better with pictures, than words.....


I'll make a point of taking pictures of my winterizing process this year and posting them. It's snowing outside right now, so it will likely be sooner rather than later. :)

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Re: 1500 Winterizing

Postby Mag » Fri Nov 07, 2014 11:29 pm

WingAdmin wrote:
I'll make a point of taking pictures of my winterizing process this year and posting them. It's snowing outside right now, so it will likely be sooner rather than later. :)


If you do it in the next month, that would be cool ;) No snow yet here, but "ice" showed up on my car computer read-out on the way home from work today, what up with that? I hate 6 month cycle seasons, it is just not long enough.

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Re: 1500 Winterizing

Postby redial » Sun Nov 09, 2014 6:42 pm

I hate 6 month cycle seasons, it is just not long enough.


Oz and New Zealand beckon. ;)
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Re: 1500 Winterizing

Postby Mag » Tue Nov 11, 2014 12:08 am

lol...............ya.

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Re: 1500 Winterizing

Postby bstig60 » Tue Nov 11, 2014 12:44 am

Some of us have a little more riding time than others, just got back from a 300 mile trip. Temps in the mid 70's F yet. But not for long.
Bill

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Re: 1500 Winterizing

Postby Mag » Wed Nov 12, 2014 12:11 am

28 degrees, thanks to the Canadian weather coming down. Had bad winds today, will have to see what will happen, possible freezing rain, maybe snow, who knows until we get there.

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Re: 1500 Winterizing

Postby FM-USA » Sun Nov 16, 2014 6:56 am

Is it possible to use those PH test strips you can get from local drug stores?
I haven't looked online, is there test strips designed just for oil?

.
gordonv
Read my sig.. FREE oil acid check before storing for winter. ;)
"OIL CHANGE?" _FM 07-2009
Know its new taste and be loyal, you'll know when to change that oil.
Taste testing as the miles flow, souring as that acid grows.
And don't flirt with dirt or darkened oil, all the faster your engine will spoil.

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Re: 1500 Winterizing

Postby OldZX11Rider » Fri Nov 27, 2015 2:01 pm

I realize this is an older thread. However I was looking for information regarding winterizing vs. just starting and letting it warm up every week or two.
I read this is what Bill, in California, basically does and there were no negative comments on that practice. So if there's no reason not to, I think that is what I will do.
For he is the minister of God to thee for good. But if thou do that which is evil, be afraid; for he beareth not the sword in vain:

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Re: 1500 Winterizing

Postby OldZX11Rider » Fri Nov 27, 2015 2:45 pm

Please disregard my previous post. I have read this is the worst thing I can do for my bike. (Thank you WingAdmin.)
So after I finish getting some work done on the engine, it will be winterized until spring. :oops:
For he is the minister of God to thee for good. But if thou do that which is evil, be afraid; for he beareth not the sword in vain:

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Re: 1500 Winterizing

Postby MikeB » Fri Nov 27, 2015 3:22 pm

OldZX11Rider wrote:I realize this is an older thread. However I was looking for information regarding winterizing vs. just starting and letting it warm up every week or two.
I read this is what Bill, in California, basically does and there were no negative comments on that practice. So if there's no reason not to, I think that is what I will do.

In milder climates like some have, my location included, I would recommend the following:
At the beginning of the suspected non-friendly riding season, fill the fuel tank and add gas stabilizer.
Ride it for about a half hour and then put it in your storage area, garage etc.
Change the engine oil and filter.
Connect your battery float charger to the battery and turn out the lights in your storage area and let the bike set.

What I am saying is, keep it ready to ride. You do not need to start the engine because it is getting lonely. Starting it, letting it warm up and then shutting it down is a terrible idea. The internal metal parts are not going to weld together. All the internal surfaces are covered in oil. It will be fine. You never know when a riding opportunity will occur.


MikeB
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