Dogbone


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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Dogsled
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Dogbone

Postby Dogsled » Wed Apr 15, 2015 3:56 pm



I'm having a hard time getting a dogbone (I shorted the installed one out )and blew it but found the spare on the side.

What is the amps /volts or whatever I should measure to substitute it. What reading am I looking for if I make one from a 12-3 ground wire in comparison to the OEM. I need to go and am ready . This can't be that complicated.......but maybe it is. I don't know. What do you set a multi meter on a stock dogbone and/or so electrical wire to get a camparable reading?


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castlewing
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Re: Dogbone

Postby castlewing » Wed Apr 15, 2015 5:27 pm


Dogsled
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Re: Dogbone

Postby Dogsled » Wed Apr 15, 2015 6:12 pm

That's good if I didn't need to ride tomorrow....I have the replacement in but I was asking what the amp specs were to replace it on the fly. Buying another one from my local dealer is ok if I want to 'order ' it.....I wasn't questioning the price or where to get one. I am 97 3/16's sure why the original one blew.......but if i'm wrong...........I was tightening the back bolt wiring on my simpro 90 amp alt and 'THINK' I shorted it out with the wrench......It was the wire going from the back of the alt directly to the dogbone. Anywho....what's a good substitute to amp wise to replace this.....basically, what load is it meant to carry.
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HALBUDD
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Re: Dogbone

Postby HALBUDD » Wed Apr 15, 2015 6:45 pm

The Fuse is 55amp but you could always change to a blade type fuse holder as you can get them anywhere. And wont have to order them just go to any auto store.
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Dogsled
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Re: Dogbone

Postby Dogsled » Wed Apr 15, 2015 8:24 pm

what's that gonna take? A blade holder with 10 ga. wire. Do they sell blade type fuse holders made for a 55 amp fuse? I never really looked but it's a good idea. I'll hit o'reillys first thing in the morning to see what they have.
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WingAdmin
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Re: Dogbone

Postby WingAdmin » Thu Apr 16, 2015 8:13 am

You could definitely go with a blade fuse - but standard automotive blade fuses max out at 40 amps. You'll could use a 50 or 60 amp "maxi" fuse in a maxi fuse holder. Here is a 60 amp rated maxi fuse holder, with 8 gauge wire:


http://www.amazon.com/Pico-0969pt-Maxi- ... ingdocs-20

You would want to crimp and SOLDER some ring terminals onto the wire ends before installing.

Here are some 60 amp maxi fuses (maxi fuses come in 10 amp increments only, so you'd have to go with either 50 or 60 amps.

http://www.amazon.com/Link-MAX60A-Amps- ... ingdocs-20

Dogsled
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Re: Dogbone

Postby Dogsled » Fri Apr 17, 2015 12:44 pm

Holy smokes I went to the honda dealer and he had the oem fuses for a buck apiece......I bought 5..... for 5 + tax. Now i'm sittin here lookin at them and they all have a painted red line going across the center. I'm thinkin that's so it acts as a hot spot and if it does blow it would burn there. Sorta like a heat sink....anybody know?
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Re: Dogbone

Postby Uncle Fester » Fri Apr 17, 2015 4:50 pm

I was thinking some 55amp fusible link would be a good replacement, crimp/solder some ring crimps on each end and there you go. . . .
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Dogsled
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Re: Dogbone

Postby Dogsled » Fri Apr 17, 2015 5:58 pm

I think the oem fuses at a buck a piece is gonna be way cheaper than any modification........ I already threw a phillips screwdriver in the bag for a quick change. It's funny, I never knew there was a spare in the cap til Ken Heming told me it was there. Also he highly advised not putting in a double bone like you get with compufires. What I ended up do getting info from him and the 1500 guru RUDY was to create two seperate systems. one with heavier gauge wire to handle the new additions and the other to handle the stock wiring. We did the math and no matter how many excuses compufire can write running hard aigh voltage items like heaters and lights on stock gauge wire will cause the oem wiring to burn up trying to supply the Heavy duty stuff while it's mixed in with the 40 amp OEM alternator......

To me these two guys are the pioneers of modifications and information on the 1500 charging system......they're both a little wierd so you gotta take them with kid gloves.....espcially that Rudy........ But they know more about this stuff than you can ever know....... Hey thanks to both of you guys cause I know you check these sights....
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seelyark1
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Re: Dogbone

Postby seelyark1 » Fri Apr 17, 2015 8:17 pm

Makes me wonder... I watched a video on installing the higher amp alternator, and part of that was to install two fuses . You are now looking at a possible 95 amp instead of the normal ?? 55. Am I wrong in my thinking :?: Once you get past that first main fuse you can use smaller fuses to run to individual circuits.
Ride safe, and smart. Asphalt is like #1 grit sandpaper. Dave

Dogsled
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Re: Dogbone

Postby Dogsled » Fri Apr 17, 2015 8:40 pm

I know what youre saying and I got no idea what the real parameters of a 90 amp alt is cabable of do except overloading the system. This is why they say compufifire may not be accurate. Basically put you can't put a 90 amp load on the wiring system designed for a 40 amp alt.

somehow the dogbone is not overloaded if the system is split by using heavier gauge wire to run the high volt items like halogens and heaters.

My first confrontation from the wiring gurus is WHAT does putting 2 55 amp fuses together do for you.....it doesn't get you 110 amps....ones gonna blow then the next.

I've learned nothing is simple and you have to set up your power usage to fit the overall output. Compufire has come up with a weak answer (or any high output alternater) by trying to say use a 110 fuse on a system built to carry 40 amp......you'll get what I had......burning wires. Call Ken Hemings at home and he'll explain all this to you.....I have DESIGNED my system to fit what my new output is........

This is big because I've been half stepping all of my up grades and missing the true union of amps and volts and whatever

It's not simple I assure you.
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Uncle Fester
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Re: Dogbone

Postby Uncle Fester » Fri Apr 17, 2015 9:05 pm

And this children, is why I am sticking with the stock 45 amp alt, and the only EXTRA lights on my bike are converting the saddlebag and trunk reflectors to LEDs. . . .I have kicked around the idea of after market stereo, amplifier, extra driving lights, all that stuff, but I am thinking I will pass. K.I.S.S. principle and all ( Keep It Simple Stupid )
Reputation is what other people know about you. Honor is what you know about yourself. Our stress about it happens when the two aren't the same. Be true to yourself and to hell with what everyone else thinks!

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Dogsled
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Re: Dogbone

Postby Dogsled » Fri Apr 17, 2015 9:16 pm

Uncle Fester.......you're a wise man........I did ALL OF THIS for a set of halogen aux lights. I have a D&MMeter on my dash and it reads dead on.....dead on enough to tell me I didn't have the extra power to run even a set of Halogen lights. I don't want to go further.....this system is quite capable of ramping up to 90 amps as long as you don't try to go thru the old OEM wiring. All of my new wiring is run 12ga........split from the stock wiring. It takes time......paper and pencil (yup) actual paper and pencil and a calculator........this is electronics 1-01......what does our future hold........ for me...............................................WALKING ALOT
"Fight until hell freezes over, then fight on the ice"

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Uncle Fester
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Re: Dogbone

Postby Uncle Fester » Fri Apr 17, 2015 9:51 pm

I prefer RIDING to WALKING, and I got burned out on Electronic 101 years ago in college ! lol
Reputation is what other people know about you. Honor is what you know about yourself. Our stress about it happens when the two aren't the same. Be true to yourself and to hell with what everyone else thinks!

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Mh434
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Re: Dogbone

Postby Mh434 » Sat Apr 18, 2015 3:12 am

WingAdmin wrote:You could definitely go with a blade fuse - but standard automotive blade fuses max out at 40 amps. You'll could use a 50 or 60 amp "maxi" fuse in a maxi fuse holder. Here is a 60 amp rated maxi fuse holder

Here are some 60 amp maxi fuses (maxi fuses come in 10 amp increments only, so you'd have to go with either 50 or 60 amps.


Sooo...if we talk about changing brake pads, we could switch to....wait for it...Maxi Pads? :lol: Sorry, WA, I just HAD to!!!

Seriously, though, I like the idea of the oversize blade fuses. Replacement fuses seem to be readily available, even in my neck of the woods...

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seelyark1
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Re: Dogbone

Postby seelyark1 » Sat Apr 18, 2015 8:30 am

Judging from most of this conversation, doing any modifications to your electrical system should be done by someone that knows what they are doing. DO NOT substitute a piece of #12 bare wire for a fuse! The heaviest draw in your system is the starter, and that gets used intermittantly. The battery draw for recharging varies with the load that you apply... lights radio, etc. You would seldom, if ever, apply 90 amps to the system unless there is a direct short. And that should be accidental. That is what "smoke testing" is all about.


Ride safe, and smart. Asphalt is like #1 grit sandpaper. Dave


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