Sound system


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
  • Sponsored Links
nedntrish
Posts: 34
Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2011 10:55 am
Location: andover, ks
Motorcycle: 1991 honda goldwing aspencade

Sound system

Postby nedntrish » Thu Jul 30, 2015 2:48 pm



I am needing to replace my speakers on a '91 1500gl. Any suggestions as to where I can find some? Is there some place in the Wichita ks area?

Also, are the front and rear speakers the same?



User avatar
NVSB4
Posts: 1130
Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 6:39 pm
Location: Arlington, Texas
Motorcycle: 1996 GL1500SE
1992 GL1500I (sold)
1986 GL1200A (sold)
2002 HD FXDL Low Rider (sold)
1993 Yamaha Virago XV1000 (sold)
Too many others to list

Re: Sound system

Postby NVSB4 » Thu Jul 30, 2015 3:37 pm

No, the front and rear are different sizes.
Most that replace use the Polk 401 & 501 speakers.
It's never too late to have a happy childhood!

Image

Image
Red=All bikes Blue=Wings

Chris

User avatar
WingAdmin
Site Admin
Posts: 17050
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:16 pm
Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (wife's!)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: Sound system

Postby WingAdmin » Wed Aug 12, 2015 5:29 pm

You might be able to find OEM speakers, but your best bet is to replace them with a set of Polk speakers. They can fit perfectly with very little modification, sound far better, and are weatherproof.

The front takes 5 inch DB501's: http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-5-Inch ... ingdocs-20

The rear takes 4 inch DB401's: http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-4-Inch ... ingdocs-20

nedntrish
Posts: 34
Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2011 10:55 am
Location: andover, ks
Motorcycle: 1991 honda goldwing aspencade

Re: Sound system

Postby nedntrish » Thu Aug 13, 2015 10:45 am

Thanks! What kind of modification would be necessary?

User avatar
RBGERSON
Posts: 2625
Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2010 7:57 am
Location: SCOTTSDALE, AZ
Motorcycle: 98 SE GL 1500
had every year from 75 to 83

Re: Sound system

Postby RBGERSON » Thu Aug 13, 2015 12:06 pm

trimming a little of the mounting flange
HAD LOTS OF GOLDWING 75-83
NOW INTO 1500'S..RIDING A 1998 SE

FAIR WINDS,
RB

User avatar
Mh434
Posts: 944
Joined: Tue Mar 25, 2014 10:24 pm
Location: Victoria, British Columbia, Canada
Motorcycle: 1997 gl1500 SE
Previous:
1981 GL1100I
1989 Kawasaki Concours

Re: Sound system

Postby Mh434 » Thu Aug 13, 2015 2:12 pm

The rears don't need any modification at all, using the Polk 401's. It's literally a 10 minute job.

The Polks are fairly expensive, but they are totally waterproof (designed for use in open boats - supposedly, they're even submersible!) and make far better sound than the OEM ones.

w9r1x4
Posts: 37
Joined: Sun Nov 24, 2013 6:53 pm
Location: Tampa, florida
Motorcycle: 1992 GL1500 Aspencade with 2015 CSC Sport Trike Conversion

Re: Sound system

Postby w9r1x4 » Tue Aug 18, 2015 10:16 pm

If you really want it to honk do this...Boss Equalizer, Boss 1200 Watt Amp. you can route your 2 channel stereo to the equalizer using something like a Scosche SLC4 Line Output Converter between your stock stereo and either an equalizer (to split into 4 channels) or to an AMP.

I used the Boss Boss EQ1208 Car Equalizer - 2 Channel - Graphic - Fader -4 Band and the BOSS Audio CXX1204 Chaos 1200 watt amp.

Takes some planning and wiring, but you can leave your stock stereo intact, along with the Cb and intercom if you want.

I found with the new J&M Elite headsets in my helmet I seldom actually use the brute power of the stereo except when I'm in the garage admiring my work and getting a buzz....

Ed


w9r1x4
Posts: 37
Joined: Sun Nov 24, 2013 6:53 pm
Location: Tampa, florida
Motorcycle: 1992 GL1500 Aspencade with 2015 CSC Sport Trike Conversion

Re: Sound system

Postby w9r1x4 » Sun Oct 25, 2015 8:05 pm

w9r1x4 wrote:If you really want it to honk do this...Boss Equalizer, Boss 1200 Watt Amp. you can route your 2 channel stereo to the equalizer using something like a Scosche SLC4 Line Output Converter between your stock stereo and either an equalizer (to split into 4 channels) or to an AMP.

I used the Boss Boss EQ1208 Car Equalizer - 2 Channel - Graphic - Fader -4 Band and the BOSS Audio CXX1204 Chaos 1200 watt amp.

Takes some planning and wiring, but you can leave your stock stereo intact, along with the Cb and intercom if you want.

I found with the new J&M Elite headsets in my helmet I seldom actually use the brute power of the stereo except when I'm in the garage admiring my work and getting a buzz....

Ed

Well....I had to do some modifications to this setup primarily since I'm about to have the 1500 Triked wih a CSC Sport kit in the next month or so. That means the rear trunk has to come off, and when I initially did this I didn't consider ever having to remove the trunk so I had lots of wiring from the accessories/speakers/power/grounds running through the trunk. To make it easy to remove the rear trunk, and to clean up the wiring (specifically the dual fuse blocks and relay) I did the following.
    - I replaced the switched/non switched fuse blocks and the relay with one of these nice units: http://www.fuzeblocks.com/ which are designed for motorcycles. The FuzeBlocks unit will handle both constant power and switched power since it has a built in relay. That's controlled by how you mount the fuses (there are 6 connections). It also has builtin ground block.
    - I installed these HiseNook Waterproof Electrical Wire Cable 6 Pin Way Connector Plug (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QTE ... ailpages00) to connect all the accessory power and grounds.
    - I used this Battery Quick Connector Kit 50amp 8awg Plug Connect Disconnect http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L21 ... ge_o01_s01 for the Amp +/- cables from the battery.
    - I used 3 of the PCB Mount 1 Row Vertical 4 Position 4 Pin Speaker Terminal Connectors http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DN8 ... ge_o00_s00 (one for the stereo inputs to the line output converter) and 2 for the stereo outputs from the amp. I mounted them on the trunk which allowed me to wire the stereo outputs from the amp to those and them just connect the wires on the outside running to the speakers, and wire the Scosche SLC4 Line Output Converter inside the trunk and just connect the original stereo r/l channel speaker outs on the outside of the trunk.

Now it shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes to disconnect the whole thing when it's time to remove the trunk, and nothing has to be taken out, cut or redone. Looks better too. :D

You can't tell much difference from looking at the pics below unless you zoom in, then you can see how much neater this is.
Before:

After:




Return to “GL1500 Information & Questions”




Who is online

Users browsing this forum: spiralout and 1 guest