1500A Rear Brakes


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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bdukes
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Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2012 9:23 pm
Location: Kingman, Indiana
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100A Aspencade
1994 GL1500A Aspencade

1500A Rear Brakes

Postby bdukes » Tue Aug 04, 2015 9:48 pm



Is there any DIY articles on changing brake pads on 1500 aspencade?



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Bluewaterhooker0
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Location: Tampa, Fl
Motorcycle: 1997 Goldwing GL 1500 SE

Re: 1500A Rear Brakes

Postby Bluewaterhooker0 » Tue Aug 04, 2015 10:58 pm

The 1st article regards the front brake pads. The rear brake pads should be very similar. You'll need to remove at least the left saddle to get get to the rear caliper. I removed both bags, and just did some additional maintenance since I was in there. You could Moly the splines on the rear drive and shaft, check or renew the oil in your right rear shock (if you have the adjustable one), check the drive rubbers, change the rear drive oil, etc. I also replaced the rear tire while there. Be sure to clean, clean, clean the brake caliper, pins, pistons, etc. Caliper grease on the pins and where ever else it is called for. Flush the brake fluid, front and rear, in that order, if you do the (left) front and rear pads. I always clean out the master cylinder reservoirs, to make sure any accumulated 'gunk' is removed.
The 2nd article shows saddle bag removal, and rear wheel removal if you decide to check the drive flange, splines, rubbers, etc.
The 3rd article regards rebuilding the rear caliper, which you may not, probably will not need to do, but the basic disassembly should help in working on it.
This work is time consuming, but all necessary maintenance.
BTW, new pads are wonderful. It's like a new brake system if yours are in poor shape. Along with a good fluid flush (left) front and rear. Also flush the front brake fluid (right side) and clean the handlebar master cylinder reservoir.
Also, if you take the rear wheel off, pay close attention to the reassembly order for the caliper bracket, and the spacer. That seems to cause some problems. And torque every thing to specs. You don't want your rear end, or any parts to self-disassemble while riding. That would make for a BAD day, and you likely winding up on YOUR rear end.
NOTE: DOT4 brake fluid only. DOT3 has a lower boiling point, and DOT5 is NOT compatible with these brake systems.

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NVSB4
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Re: 1500A Rear Brakes

Postby NVSB4 » Wed Aug 05, 2015 8:16 am

I just finished doing mine a couple of weeks ago. As Bluewaterhooker0 said, once you do the front, the rear are nothing you can't handle. Major pain to get all the plastic off and on, so as he suggests, do as much as you can while you're there.
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Big Blue UK
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Re: 1500A Rear Brakes

Postby Big Blue UK » Wed Aug 05, 2015 7:39 pm

Well worth taking your time doing the above, removing the panniers and rear panel only takes 15 mins. Do not mess about trying to pinch and push the pannier door release cables through with the pannier in situ. Remove the bolts, pull it away enough to get your hand behind it to pull on the cable while you pinch the white split securing ring.

I have never done this myself, but remember to re attach the cables before you bolt the panniers back on .

Only thing I would add is...
Carefully check the wheel bearing for the slightest amount of free play.
Check the swing arm for signs of rust.
Check the age of the tyre, and inspect carefully. If you replace it, replace the valve with a billet alloy one.
If at first you don't succeed, hide the evidence.

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Happytrails
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Re: 1500A Rear Brakes

Postby Happytrails » Fri Aug 07, 2015 8:25 pm

Big Blue UK wrote:Well worth taking your time doing the above, removing the panniers and rear panel only takes 15 mins. Do not mess about trying to pinch and push the pannier door release cables through with the pannier in situ. Remove the bolts, pull it away enough to get your hand behind it to pull on the cable while you pinch the white split securing ring.

I have never done this myself, but remember to re attach the cables before you bolt the panniers back on .

Only thing I would add is...
Carefully check the wheel bearing for the slightest amount of free play.
Check the swing arm for signs of rust.
Check the age of the tyre, and inspect carefully. If you replace it, replace the valve with a billet alloy one.


Yes its not a bad job. Only takes 15-20min. to take off left side saddlebag taking your time and being careful. Before I start backing out the saddlebag bolts I release the locking cable from the bag. Then start backing the bolts out. If you've replaced the front pads the rear will seem familiar. Even when I replaced my trucks pads that floating caliper brake isn't all that different than a bikes. Only a bikes seems made much better.


1991 GL1500 SE Anniversary Edition
Sun Flare Gold Metallic
Vallant Brown Inset


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