few general questions for my winter project


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Gdgiò
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few general questions for my winter project

Postby Gdgiò » Mon Sep 14, 2015 4:00 pm



Hi sirs/friends

it might be that somewhere in the forum ,tpics are discussed already but I could not find .Forgive me if so, and pls direct me to the specific topic.
I am going to check few things next winter when i stop my GW 1999 SE (80000Km) and i would like some advices for the following:

1)I have a feeling that front suspension are too soft.is there any objective methods or tips to verify if they are at the right tension? What is the fork oil's change interval?

2)I am going to check the final driven gear and I would like to check the soft dumper.Is there any suggestions how to check it or if replacement is raccomended?

3) some time (pretty often) despite the neutral gear is engaged, the green lamp is not on, so I need to "kick" the gear lever to have also the light on.That it would not be aproblem itsself IF the engine would start with onyt side stand and clutch engaged even if the gear is not in neutral.

4) as you all know the 1500 SE break system is not that fantastic. I had a similar situation with my ex dragstar.I have slightly improved by replacin therubber oil pipes by "aeronautics" ones. What is your opinion by doing this? any additional suggestions to improve the breaks performances?

5)Plastic hookes
some of the plastic hookes of the hull ,are broken.There is no sense to replace expensive hulls parts due this minor missing but important parts.Did anybody tried to fix them in some how? rebuild them ?

6)the alluminum valve's cover are a bit oxydized and i am planning to polsh them.To do a nice job ,I want to remove them.Do you think is necessary to replace the cover's seals? any other suggestion how to polish them?


I will also replace the timing belts .I will follow your very well done instructions... for this the proccedure ispretty clear

thanks in advance for any imputs you may give
Giorgio
ps
for spare parts I have found ,in europe, only 2 sources with a variety of parts
Shiny wings & Honda
Do you have may be some more tips?
I am also ready to by from US but no experience of the real convenience.



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NVSB4
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Re: few general questions for my winter project

Postby NVSB4 » Mon Sep 14, 2015 5:27 pm

First, welcome to the forum. I'm sure that you will find lots of information and people here to help you with your questions.
Now let me see if I can help direct you to the proper places.
Gdgiò wrote:Hi sirs/friends
it might be that somewhere in the forum ,tpics are discussed already but I could not find .Forgive me if so, and pls direct me to the specific topic.
I am going to check few things next winter when i stop my GW 1999 SE (80000Km) and i would like some advices for the following:
1)I have a feeling that front suspension are too soft.is there any objective methods or tips to verify if they are at the right tension? What is the fork oil's change interval?

I'll have to defer this one to others, but there is a good How-To on rebuilding the front forks here that might answer some of your questions.

Gdgiò wrote:2)I am going to check the final driven gear and I would like to check the soft dumper.Is there any suggestions how to check it or if replacement is raccomended?

WingAdmin has a great How-To here on the final drive.

Gdgiò wrote:3) some time (pretty often) despite the neutral gear is engaged, the green lamp is not on, so I need to "kick" the gear lever to have also the light on.That it would not be aproblem itsself IF the engine would start with onyt side stand and clutch engaged even if the gear is not in neutral.

I had to read your question twice before it came to me. The bike will not start with the side stand down unless it is in neutral, even with the clutch engaged.
If the light doesn't come on when you know that it is in neutral, you may have an issue with the gear shift sensor, or loose connection or short in the related wiring.

Gdgiò wrote:4) as you all know the 1500 SE break system is not that fantastic. I had a similar situation with my ex dragstar.I have slightly improved by replacin therubber oil pipes by "aeronautics" ones. What is your opinion by doing this? any additional suggestions to improve the breaks performances?

Stainless brake lines will definitely help if you are having any kind of issues. You can find a good source here for them. I think his distributor is in Europe, so you make be able to get them there cheaper without the shipping cost.

Gdgiò wrote:5)Plastic hookes some of the plastic hookes of the hull ,are broken.There is no sense to replace expensive hulls parts due this minor missing but important parts.Did anybody tried to fix them in some how? rebuild them ?

I haven't heard of anyone trying to rebuild these. Over here there are many people that take wrecked bikes and scrap out the pieces.

Gdgiò wrote:6)the alluminum valve's cover are a bit oxydized and i am planning to polsh them.To do a nice job ,I want to remove them.Do you think is necessary to replace the cover's seals? any other suggestion how to polish them?

A good discussion on how to polish is here. I would look at the seals to see if they need to be replaced, but they are probably 17 years old, so it might be a good time while you have them off.

Gdgiò wrote:I will also replace the timing belts .I will follow your very well done instructions... for this the proccedure ispretty clear

While you have it stripped down, replace all of the filters. There are lots of other things to keep busy with on this page.

Gdgiò wrote:thanks in advance for any imputs you may give
Giorgio
ps
for spare parts I have found ,in europe, only 2 sources with a variety of parts Shiny wings & Honda
Do you have may be some more tips? I am also ready to by from US but no experience of the real convenience.

Not able to help you here, but there are a couple of UK buddies that might know.
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RBGERSON
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Re: few general questions for my winter project

Postby RBGERSON » Mon Sep 14, 2015 5:42 pm

1)I have a feeling that front suspension are too soft.is there any objective methods or tips to verify if they are at the right tension? Not really but if you can pull the handlebars up and forks expand..that's not good. But if you like the ride you like the ride if not you don't it by feel!!!

What is the fork oil's change interval? Two years works

2)I am going to check the final driven gear and I would like to check the soft dumper.Is there any suggestions how to check it or if replacement is recommended? dampers?/ if you have them out replace them..they are probably hard as rocks

3) some time (pretty often) despite the neutral gear is engaged, the green lamp is not on, so I need to "kick" the gear lever to have also the light on.That it would not be a problem itself IF the engine would start with only side stand and clutch engaged even if the gear is not in neutral.

Is there a Question?? May not be in gear but not in neutral either..so kick it

4) as you all know the 1500 SE break system is not that fantastic. I had a similar situation with my ex dragstar.I have slightly improved by replacin the rubber oil pipes by "aeronautics" ones. What is your opinion by doing this? any additional suggestions to improve the breaks performances? Stainless steel braided lines, bleed them well, rebuild caliper???

5)Plastic hookes????????????????????
some of the plastic hookes of the hull ,are broken.There is no sense to replace expensive hulls parts due this minor missing but important parts.Did anybody tried to fix them in some how? rebuild them ? Not sure what you are referencing but new grommets helps to hold pegs in and pegs can be replaced with metal ones there is thread on how to it if not several..basically gluing a new peg in the right place.

6)the aluminum valve's cover are a bit oxidized and i am planning to polish them.To do a nice job ,I want to remove them.Do you think is necessary to replace the cover's seals? any other suggestion how to polish them?

New seals may or may not be needed..if they leak after replace if not... Polishing wheel with jewelers polish from coarse to fine grits..I forget the colors like red to white or white to red.??? Or you might try Mothers polish. [b] It's a messy job on a wheel so be prepared..googles, gloves, jump suit.
[/b]
HAD LOTS OF GOLDWING 75-83
NOW INTO 1500'S..RIDING A 1998 SE

FAIR WINDS,
RB

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kane67
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Re: few general questions for my winter project

Postby kane67 » Mon Sep 14, 2015 11:18 pm

Gdgiò wrote:for spare parts I have found ,in europe, only 2 sources with a variety of parts
Shiny wings & Honda
Do you have may be some more tips?
I am also ready to by from US but no experience of the real convenience.


Hi!

Here you can find parts http://www.cmsnl.com/
I know they have bought parts from Honda importers in EU.

Br, kane

GillesGLW
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Re: few general questions for my winter project

Postby GillesGLW » Tue Sep 15, 2015 5:51 am

Ciao Giorgio,

Did you get my private message? For the spare parts, I wouldn't be scare to order them in the US. I usually go to Cyclemax, really a fantastic team there.
I tried as well some shops around, but I have to admit that Customer Service in the US is really fantastic!

Take care,
Gilles

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Bigbiker0
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Re: few general questions for my winter project

Postby Bigbiker0 » Tue Sep 15, 2015 6:10 am

For your neutral you must consider shifter stabiliser it's a must.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=16399
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kane67
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Re: few general questions for my winter project

Postby kane67 » Tue Sep 15, 2015 9:13 am

Yep, had same that neutral light didn't show up sometimes. After installing Shift Stabilizer it's working perfect and shifting is now great!

Now I'm waiting Black Wing fork stabilizer brace... :D

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Jeff M
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Re: few general questions for my winter project

Postby Jeff M » Tue Sep 15, 2015 9:18 am

Well, I can answer two of your questions. Concerning the front springs, my 98 was a bit mushy until I installed Progressives. Now it soaks up the bumps just fine, but doesn't dive down when stopping. I like them. Second question, I replaced my brake lines with braided stainless steel--makes all the difference. Nice, firm feel, good stopping. Well worth it.

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Re: few general questions for my winter project

Postby Gdgiò » Tue Sep 15, 2015 4:05 pm

Hi
Thanks for warm welcoming !There has been,of course, my presentation a while ago but i have not accessed the forum reguraly.
I am gratefull to everyone for the friendly spirit when answering my questions.

I'v got most of the informations i was looking for. Sorry for the bad explanation of the neutral lamp issue....my english is not perfect and i need to rely on your "sixt sense" :lol: :lol:
Anyhow I guess the shift stabilizer, might be real beneficial for the engagement's accuracy of the neutral sensor !!

About the plastic hooks ...I mean (probably) plastic pegs .
Few of those are missing so can not hold the relevant female engagement. I may manufacture the pegs and then glue them on place but i need to know what kind of plastic i may use to select then the proper glue .Any info o that?
I have seen this on cyclemax..is that for that purpose?



I guess I am almost ready to start my project but ...prefer riding untill our italian mild weather alows that :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

ciao
Giorgio

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Re: few general questions for my winter project

Postby NVSB4 » Tue Sep 15, 2015 8:14 pm

Gdgiò wrote:About the plastic hooks ...I mean (probably) plastic pegs .
Few of those are missing so can not hold the relevant female engagement. I may manufacture the pegs and then glue them on place but i need to know what kind of plastic i may use to select then the proper glue .Any info o that?


I think what Giorgio is referring to is what we have called tabs.
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Re: few general questions for my winter project

Postby WingAdmin » Wed Sep 16, 2015 10:30 am

Gdgiò wrote:Hi
Thanks for warm welcoming !There has been,of course, my presentation a while ago but i have not accessed the forum reguraly.
I am gratefull to everyone for the friendly spirit when answering my questions.

I'v got most of the informations i was looking for. Sorry for the bad explanation of the neutral lamp issue....my english is not perfect and i need to rely on your "sixt sense" :lol: :lol:
Anyhow I guess the shift stabilizer, might be real beneficial for the engagement's accuracy of the neutral sensor !!

About the plastic hooks ...I mean (probably) plastic pegs .
Few of those are missing so can not hold the relevant female engagement. I may manufacture the pegs and then glue them on place but i need to know what kind of plastic i may use to select then the proper glue .Any info o that?
I have seen this on cyclemax..is that for that purpose?



I guess I am almost ready to start my project but ...prefer riding untill our italian mild weather alows that :mrgreen: :mrgreen:


The posts are made of ABS plastic, and ABS glue (or MEK) will work to bond new ones to the existing panel.

Those posts from Cyclemax are also meant to be used as replacements, although I don't think they are made of ABS, so they have to be bonded with J-B Weld epoxy (which is included).

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Re: few general questions for my winter project

Postby RBGERSON » Wed Sep 16, 2015 11:52 am

Here's what I use..metal so JB weld works on it. nut added to the threads to give bigger base and glue in place.
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HAD LOTS OF GOLDWING 75-83
NOW INTO 1500'S..RIDING A 1998 SE

FAIR WINDS,
RB

Gdgiò
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Re: few general questions for my winter project

Postby Gdgiò » Wed Sep 16, 2015 2:00 pm

NVSB4 wrote:
Gdgiò wrote:About the plastic hooks ...I mean (probably) plastic pegs .
Few of those are missing so can not hold the relevant female engagement. I may manufacture the pegs and then glue them on place but i need to know what kind of plastic i may use to select then the proper glue .Any info o that?


I think what Giorgio is referring to is what we have called tabs.


Great Chris ... you'v got the point !!
Those tabs are basically strcturally weak and when they break, replace or gluing them s not that easy.
Did anybody found a way to fix them?
I can only figure out to file a piece of ABS and glue it

Gdgiò
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Re: few general questions for my winter project

Postby Gdgiò » Thu Nov 19, 2015 5:18 pm

I open this post again for a question + information for your benefit to you all :

My first point in this post was about the forks.I removed the forks and I drained the oil...very black ...wack..!!
In the "how to article" the forks have a air valve ,my 99 model has not.
Is there any other method to fill the oil fork then removing the top screw cap ? If possible I would avoid o remove the caps since i do not have a proper tool ...or anybody did it without tool? I managed once remove the spring by hands in HD ..carefully is possible.

For your info ,I found out the ABS repairing (like in my case the tabs) can be done with 2 methods:
using a tin welder.ABS is suitable to be welded or handled by a proper temperature like the one given by a welder.
Another method is to use acetone . put in a glass jar some ABS and acetone .close with the cap and leav it for some tens minutes.Acetone will melt the ABS resulting in a melted paste. Then you can work it and form it.When Acetone will evaporate, ABS will return at its original hardness. I have not tried yet but that the principle :mrgreen:

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Re: few general questions for my winter project

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Nov 23, 2015 10:03 am

Gdgiò wrote:I open this post again for a question + information for your benefit to you all :

My first point in this post was about the forks.I removed the forks and I drained the oil...very black ...wack..!!
In the "how to article" the forks have a air valve ,my 99 model has not.
Is there any other method to fill the oil fork then removing the top screw cap ? If possible I would avoid o remove the caps since i do not have a proper tool ...or anybody did it without tool? I managed once remove the spring by hands in HD ..carefully is possible.

For your info ,I found out the ABS repairing (like in my case the tabs) can be done with 2 methods:
using a tin welder.ABS is suitable to be welded or handled by a proper temperature like the one given by a welder.
Another method is to use acetone . put in a glass jar some ABS and acetone .close with the cap and leav it for some tens minutes.Acetone will melt the ABS resulting in a melted paste. Then you can work it and form it.When Acetone will evaporate, ABS will return at its original hardness. I have not tried yet but that the principle :mrgreen:


As for the forks - you really should pump the shocks up and down throughout their full travel to remove all the old fork oil - and I like to flush them as well, using a solvent, to get the rest of the sludge out. I'll then let any remaining solvent evaporate, pump through some new fork oil just to be sure, then close them up and fill with oil - again pumping the shocks throughout their full travel to remove any air bubbles and to ensure the fork oil level is correct. You can't pump the shocks throughout their full travel while the springs are still in them - you can do some of the travel, but not all.

The other problem is that when filling the forks, you won't be able to tell if you have filled them to the correct level without measuring them from the top. You can try to guess by filling them with a specific volume of oil, but you will be doing just that - guessing - because you can't account for any residual oil remaining in the forks. The only way to know for sure is to measure the fork level from the top after filling.

What you might want to do is to remove the caps THIS time, then drill and tap them for schraeder valves (or buy a used set of caps with them already installed). You can unscrew and remove the valves, fill the forks through the caps, and measure the fork oil level this way as well - so in future, you could get away without removing the caps.

As for melting ABS, I think you'll find MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) - the main ingredient in ABS glue - will work far better for creating your ABS "slurry." It's a method well-known to us here for fixing our plastic pieces. I will take a piece of ABS pipe and using a large drill bit in a drill press, drill a bunch of holes in it. The pieces of thin ABS that are created (shavings) by the drilling I then collect and put into a container with MEK. They melt very quickly into a slurry that I then use to do my ABS repairs.

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Re: few general questions for my winter project

Postby NVSB4 » Mon Nov 23, 2015 10:34 am

WingAdmin wrote:What you might want to do is to remove the caps THIS time, then drill and tap them for schraeder valves (or buy a used set of caps with them already installed).


Any idea where one might find caps with the valves already installed?
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Re: few general questions for my winter project

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Nov 23, 2015 11:15 am

NVSB4 wrote:
WingAdmin wrote:What you might want to do is to remove the caps THIS time, then drill and tap them for schraeder valves (or buy a used set of caps with them already installed).


Any idea where one might find caps with the valves already installed?


eBay, or Honda - the part number is 51450-MN5-505

Honda still has them new for $64 apiece (ouch) - you should be able to do much better finding used on eBay.

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Re: few general questions for my winter project

Postby Gdgiò » Wed Dec 30, 2015 4:35 pm

Hallo friends again...
My winter project is proceeding:
-Timing belts replacement is done (even if I did not started the engine yet but I did all according your precious and very well done indications).
-Fork oil change is done
-front brake pads replaced
-front aluminum wheel glass blasted and painted
-air filter and all other filter elements replaced
-Compressor desiccant regenerated
-Brakes oil lines replaced with aeronautic ones
..Now I am on the rear area of the bike for replacing the final drive oil and refurbish the final drive splines ( i found them a bit rusty but no damaged luckily).
I am now considering to replace the rear wheel rubber dampener. How do I make evaluation f they are still suitable ?
I found some rubber powder coming from the rubber's corner (some wearing) and some play of the rubbers when located in their grooves; there is about 1mm play when in place.
I attach some pictures...may I have your opinion?





I take the chance for wishing that you all enjoyed your Xmas time and brightest new year
Giorgio

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Re: few general questions for my winter project

Postby NVSB4 » Wed Dec 30, 2015 5:21 pm

Good for you Giorgio, it looks like you have accomplished quite a bit.
I would go ahead and replace them while you have everything apart.
Just make sure that you lubricate them well.
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Re: few general questions for my winter project

Postby millerized » Wed Dec 30, 2015 6:04 pm

All you folks looking to repair plastic tabs and the like on fairings, may I recommend Plastifix?
http://www.urethanesupply.com/PlastiFix/
I've used it numerous times on my Concours that I gave away a few years ago. From repairing panels to putting those daaaamn tabs back where they were supposed to be, to making pieces that you forgot to scrape up off the road when you were cleaning up.

Watch their videos, see if it's a good match for what you'd like to do.










Yes, they're trying to sell you something.
I'm not. I'm just pointing you to a product that may help you fix what's broken.
(oh, and I'm a satisfied customer)

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Re: few general questions for my winter project

Postby NVSB4 » Wed Dec 30, 2015 7:34 pm

millerized wrote:All you folks looking to repair plastic tabs and the like on fairings, may I recommend Plastifix?

I gave it a look and like the idea of their "molding bar" to get the shape of a piece that you might be missing to make a new one.
That would really help create new tabs.
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Re: few general questions for my winter project

Postby Gdgiò » Sat Jan 02, 2016 5:56 am

NVSB4 wrote:Good for you Giorgio, it looks like you have accomplished quite a bit.
I would go ahead and replace them while you have everything apart.
Just make sure that you lubricate them well.


Thanks NVSB4 (strange name for a US guy :D :D ...sounds more a "star wars ID" :D :D ..joking)
I quote you totally, no sense to save 50€ when you are at this stage. I just wanted to get the glue if THAT wear looks normal.
I will replace it!!
One more thing: when reading the "final drive post", there was no mention of the lubricating the dumpers.Do yuo really mean to lubricate the rubber bolcks? If yes how and what kind of lubricant?

There is a mention about the NO lubricating the 5 design pins since they slides in an aluminum seat... I have 5 pins design.
thanks

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Re: few general questions for my winter project

Postby NVSB4 » Sat Jan 02, 2016 9:50 am

Gdgiò wrote:Thanks NVSB4 (strange name for a US guy :D :D ...sounds more a "star wars ID" :D :D ..joking)

My screen name is confusing for most. It is meant to show NVS B4, or "Envious before".
Gdgiò wrote:I quote you totally, no sense to save 50€ when you are at this stage. I just wanted to get the glue if THAT wear looks normal.
I will replace it!! One more thing: when reading the "final drive post", there was no mention of the lubricating the dumpers. Do you really mean to lubricate the rubber blocks? If yes how and what kind of lubricant? There is a mention about the NO lubricating the 5 design pins since they slides in an aluminum seat... I have 5 pins design.
thanks

WingAdmin has a great How-To here that shows the drive splines and the lubricant (Moly 77) to use.
It's never too late to have a happy childhood!

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Re: few general questions for my winter project

Postby Gdgiò » Sat Jan 02, 2016 4:56 pm

NVSB4 wrote:
Gdgiò wrote:Thanks NVSB4 (strange name for a US guy :D :D ...sounds more a "star wars ID" :D :D ..joking)

My screen name is confusing for most. It is meant to show NVS B4, or "Envious before".
Gdgiò wrote:I quote you totally, no sense to save 50€ when you are at this stage. I just wanted to get the glue if THAT wear looks normal.
I will replace it!! One more thing: when reading the "final drive post", there was no mention of the lubricating the dumpers. Do you really mean to lubricate the rubber blocks? If yes how and what kind of lubricant? There is a mention about the NO lubricating the 5 design pins since they slides in an aluminum seat... I have 5 pins design.
thanks

WingAdmin has a great How-To here that shows the drive splines and the lubricant (Moly 77) to use.


I red the post , and it is clear the splines must be lubricated but no lubrication is needed with the rubber dumping block!

One more tip please: i guess i need to machine the rear break disc , what shall be the minumum left thickness after machining?
I suspect the Honda instruction is misleading... it says 6mm for rear but 6mm is the thickness of a brand new disc.
What is your opinion?... generally for other bike makers, the minumum after machining can be 4mm or even 3,5mm.
Thanks

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Re: few general questions for my winter project

Postby WingAdmin » Sat Jan 02, 2016 9:06 pm

Gdgiò wrote:One more tip please: i guess i need to machine the rear break disc , what shall be the minumum left thickness after machining?
I suspect the Honda instruction is misleading... it says 6mm for rear but 6mm is the thickness of a brand new disc.
What is your opinion?... generally for other bike makers, the minumum after machining can be 4mm or even 3,5mm.
Thanks


You will have difficulty machining the brake rotor - it is extremely hard, and will take special equipment to machine it. Normally they are never machined, unlike an automobile rotor, and are just replaced if they exhibit excessive wear or runout.

GL1500 rear rotors are 7.3 to 7.7mm when new. Minimum thickness is 6.0mm, and maximum runout is 0.3mm.




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