Clutch Replacement


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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bobby earl
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Motorcycle: 1990 GL 1500 goldwing trike

Clutch Replacement

Postby bobby earl » Sat Oct 10, 2015 6:51 pm



I have a 1990 Gold Wing 1500 Trike
i belive the clutch is about done, when you let teh clutch out it is allmost all the way out
if you barely pull in the clutch it slips, not slipping out on the road and it does shift a bit hard
any one have diagram or know were i can get one to replace the clutch myself? thank you



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Bluewaterhooker0
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Motorcycle: 1997 Goldwing GL 1500 SE

Re: Clutch Replacement

Postby Bluewaterhooker0 » Sun Oct 11, 2015 12:02 am

I think most folks would advise flushing and bleeding the clutch system, before jumping to a clutch rebuild or cylinder rebuild. Have you tried that yet ? It's a good general maintenance idea, as well.
Also, if the return hole in the bottom of the master cylinder gets blocked or plugged for any reason, I think that could cause the same issue, as the clutch pressure cannot be released after it is activated. It's the little hole next to the fluid intake hole, that may be visually blocked off by a small piece of metal, in the master cylinder reservoir.

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bobby earl
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Postby bobby earl » Sun Oct 11, 2015 9:49 am

thank you i will check that, the clutch lever when pulled feels very very strong not spongy at all, i have bled it out
nothing changed, the clutch dosnt slip at all unless like i say you barely pull it in to change gears its like maxed out.
thanks for your reply ill go look at the hole you were talking about.

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702scottc
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Postby 702scottc » Sun Oct 11, 2015 4:17 pm

What type and viscosity of engine oil do you use? If you are using a heavier grade viscosity then the clutch action will be more sensitive. Energy conserving automotive engine oil could make it slip.
Something else to look at before tearing into it. How long has it been acting up?

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bobby earl
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Postby bobby earl » Sun Oct 11, 2015 8:32 pm

well i bought this from a friends wife since he passed back in feb she didnt want and didnt know much about,
its been fine ive put in 30w oil just a little bit since it was low, the clutch handle was really worn i found a used one
just like it not worn its been fine just past month ive noticed it being close to top out when letting the clutch out,
its not slipped any it still grabs good but when you let it out all most all the way it kinda lunges clutch feels very strong
just like a car when you let your foot all the way top end instead of closer to the floor on a car.
thanks
Bob

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702scottc
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1990 GL1500 Aspencade (sold)
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Postby 702scottc » Sun Oct 11, 2015 10:02 pm

Before you tear into it try this, add 6 oz of sea foam to the crankcase and ride it for 30 min or so. Then change the engine oil and filter. I use Delo or Rotella 15-40 heavy duty truck oil in my bike, use whatever you like but stay in the 10-15 weight range. Owners manual calls for 10-40, just stay away from energy conserving automotive oils. They have friction modifiers added and aren't compatable with wet clutches. Then ride it for a while and see if the clutch action improves. Since it was parked for an indeterminate time before you got it and it is a 1990, could have a buildup of varnish that sea foam will make short work of.

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MikeB
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Postby MikeB » Mon Oct 12, 2015 4:19 am

bobby earl wrote:...the clutch handle was really worn i found a used one
just like it not worn ...

The clutch handle was very worn? How so? What part of it was worn? Was the replaceable pivot bushing in good shape?
And, the handle you found "just like it", was it for the 1990 GL1500?
When you replaced it, did you use all the other original parts or swap something else out?

If I were you, I would put all the original stuff in it that you took off and try it again. Perhaps there is a mismatch of parts somehow and the part or parts you installed is actually causing the problem and not a clutch problem at all.
MikeB
Tacoma, WA, USA

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WingAdmin
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Oct 12, 2015 9:54 am

The two things I would check before tearing into the clutch:

1. The aftermarket clutch lever. Is it allowing the master cylinder piston to fully extend when the lever is released? There should be a little bit of free play at the lever end when the clutch is released.

2. Is the return port in the master cylinder clogged? Does it work better when the clutch has been freshly bled, and then starts to get worse? Does it get worse as the engine heats up? If so, you might need to clean/rebuild the master cylinder.

You might also want to follow the oil suggestions already stated, as incorrect oil (with friction modifiers, i.e. automotive oil) can cause early clutch slippage.

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bobby earl
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Postby bobby earl » Mon Oct 12, 2015 6:14 pm

no its actually better i bought a used 1990 gold wing clutch handle the brass pivot part in my handle was worn clear through and had made a hole into the handle, so the one i bought was identical and it worked so much better. i appreicate all the feedback as for the master cyclnder i may try the flush on the system the clutch really dosnet slip so that could be it ill try it 1st thank you. also is there a way to get a manual on here?? serice manual thank you for all your help.

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WingAdmin
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Postby WingAdmin » Tue Oct 13, 2015 9:32 am

bobby earl wrote:no its actually better i bought a used 1990 gold wing clutch handle the brass pivot part in my handle was worn clear through and had made a hole into the handle, so the one i bought was identical and it worked so much better. i appreicate all the feedback as for the master cyclnder i may try the flush on the system the clutch really dosnet slip so that could be it ill try it 1st thank you. also is there a way to get a manual on here?? serice manual thank you for all your help.


Yep, that was going to be my next guess, depending on how you answered those questions. :)

This is common enough of a problem that we have a How-To on it: How to replace your clutch lever bushing

Image

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bobby earl
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Postby bobby earl » Sun Jan 10, 2016 8:06 am

thank you for the replys some reason couldnt get back on here but now i figured it out i think.
i called a local place about a clutch job they want 350 parts and 240 for labor. i have found clutch kits for 50 to 100 for GL 1500 myy question now is, is there a differnce on a regular bike clutchs and a trike clutches???
any help awesome thank you

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Happytrails
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Postby Happytrails » Sun Jan 10, 2016 12:05 pm

bobby earl wrote:its been fine ive put in 30w oil just a little bit since it was low, the clutch handle was really worn i found a used one
just like it not worn its been fine just past month ive noticed it being close to top out when letting the clutch out,
thanks
Bob


I know this sounds silly but what 30w oil did you add? It didn't have friction additives did it?

When you put on the other clutch lever did you install the pushrood as shown in that picture? One end is round and the other is squared off. The round end must face the master cylinder piston.

And also did you try rebuilding the slave cylinder and the clutch still slips?

Good luck with your repairs :D


1991 GL1500 SE Anniversary Edition
Sun Flare Gold Metallic
Vallant Brown Inset


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