u-joint


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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Keef
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u-joint

Postby Keef » Tue Nov 17, 2015 6:38 pm



:x Might I ask, How do you get to your u-joint or inspect it at the front end of your drive shaft?
I can see it, but not feel it!



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wingman12
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Re: u-joint

Postby wingman12 » Tue Nov 17, 2015 7:16 pm

Good evening Keef, I have been wrong as much as I have been right, but the only way I know of to actually inspect the u joint is to pull the rear wheel, final drive, pull out the drive shaft, remove the pin holding the swing arm in place, peal back the rubber boot and carefully remove the u- joint. there is an tutorial on this very subject in the how to articles under the 1500. the link is on the right column near the bottom of the page. I normally make that inspection when it is time to change tires. good luck and have fun. :D :D

Joe_
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Re: u-joint

Postby Joe_ » Wed Nov 18, 2015 12:45 am

^^^^ what he said :D Just had to do that. To what he said I would add that I had to also remove the alternator to get the new boot on properly and those really long needle nose pliers they sell at harbor fright were a life saver. I found there is a fellow from England on Ebay selling a socket that fits the lock nut for the swingarm bearings. This you will need if you want to properly torque the swingarm bearing during re install or you can find instructions on the net for making one. The ebay tool is not as nice as the factory tool but is much cheaper, and does get the job done. You might need a new seal for the rear of the drive shaft too. I did.

On mine I was fortunate that I did inspect it as the splines were dry and the boot was off at the bottom and torn on the inside. Luckily got to it before any damage was done to the splines or the U joint.

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MikeB
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Re: u-joint

Postby MikeB » Wed Nov 18, 2015 1:15 am

Here is the article on this board for replacement of the Universal joint: http://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=30309.
MikeB
Tacoma, WA, USA

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Keef
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Re: u-joint

Postby Keef » Wed Nov 18, 2015 7:48 am

Thanks guy's, going to wait until it gets a lot colder. Still in the 60's - 70's here...........NC

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WingAdmin
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Re: u-joint

Postby WingAdmin » Wed Nov 18, 2015 11:10 am

Joe_ wrote:^^^^ what he said :D Just had to do that. To what he said I would add that I had to also remove the alternator to get the new boot on properly and those really long needle nose pliers they sell at harbor fright were a life saver. I found there is a fellow from England on Ebay selling a socket that fits the lock nut for the swingarm bearings. This you will need if you want to properly torque the swingarm bearing during re install or you can find instructions on the net for making one. The ebay tool is not as nice as the factory tool but is much cheaper, and does get the job done. You might need a new seal for the rear of the drive shaft too. I did.

On mine I was fortunate that I did inspect it as the splines were dry and the boot was off at the bottom and torn on the inside. Luckily got to it before any damage was done to the splines or the U joint.


If you read the How to remove and replace your universal joint article, you will see that you don't have to loosen the left side of the swingarm at all - and the right side pivot pin is a simple hex socket, so no special lock nut is required for this procedure. I suppose you could really pull the alternator if you wanted to, but I was able to remove my boot and install the new one without having to do that, with plenty of clearance. I removed the starter relay in order to get better access, but that's easy to do.

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Re: u-joint

Postby Joe_ » Thu Nov 19, 2015 2:12 am

Sorry about that reply. My difficulties were caused by having the sidecar still partially attached to the bike while replacing the boot and trying to get the Ujoint on and off. I'm sure that removing the boot and lubing the splines is much easier if you have unobstructed access to the right side of the car without having to lay over the seat hanging upside down to do things.

Same with re torquing the left swingarm bolt. The sidecar puts a huge amount of side force on the swingarm pivot,each time it goes over a bump, Something that doesn't normally occur without one attached. I just wanted to make sure everything was absolutely as good as could be gotten when I did it. That was why I bought the tool and retorqued the left side pivot pin following the instructions in the manual.

Btw thanks for the great tutorial. It made everything much much easier. The pictures were a huge help. It was really well done.

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Re: u-joint

Postby TAZZ » Sat Nov 28, 2015 1:23 am

Hi All. I like to ask you all some question about 1500se U-Joint it I'm right is it the miles more factor than the years on the u-joint some off our bike are over 20yrs and some are going to be 20 yrs old. Any idea went is time to replace the u-joint or with maintain and moly60 paste every tire change the u-joint can go a long time and yes I maintain my final drive and drive shaft with moly60 paste every tire change. Next question is the U-joint is it HARD to come by and if I just just want to only change the boot do you have to go through ALL the step on DIY the take place on the u-joint to just change the boot or is there other way.

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wingman12
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Re: u-joint

Postby wingman12 » Sat Nov 28, 2015 8:57 am

Good morning razz. Yes mileage is the main cause of u joint failure. I don't know if there is a recommended replacement schedule for the u joint. Currently they are readily available. As for replacement of the boot, you have to do all steps of u joint replacement except loosing the swing arm and actually removing the u joint. :D :D

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TAZZ
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Re: u-joint

Postby TAZZ » Sat Nov 28, 2015 12:23 pm

wingman12 wrote:Good morning razz. Yes mileage is the main cause of u joint failure. I don't know if there is a recommended replacement schedule for the u joint. Currently they are readily available. As for replacement of the boot, you have to do all steps of u joint replacement except loosing the swing arm and actually removing the u joint. :D :D

Thank wing was hope for a short cut on the boot :x I guess if you have to go all the same steps also do the u-joint my 97 has 80,000 mile maybe is time to do the u-joint just to be safe next time I do a tire change.

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Re: u-joint

Postby wingman12 » Sat Nov 28, 2015 2:41 pm

could not hurt. my 1st universal joint went out at 82,000 miles. :D :D

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TAZZ
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1982 Honda GL1100 Aspencade 1994 Yamaha700

Re: u-joint

Postby TAZZ » Sun Nov 29, 2015 4:54 pm

wingman12 wrote:could not hurt. my 1st universal joint went out at 82,000 miles. :D :D

Ok I can't believe we have to replace the U-joint after 80,000 miles. :evil: Do we also have to replace the driveshaft and the seals and spring or just the seals and spring on the shaft and the wheel damper. I'm asking so I can order all I need from Cyclemax and have everything and NOT say SHOOT I forgot something.

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wingman12
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Re: u-joint

Postby wingman12 » Sun Nov 29, 2015 5:38 pm

I only had to replace the universal joint. The boot was still good and nothing wrong with the drive shaft or final drive seals. The wheel dampners should be inspected whenever you get the tires changed. I replaced my wheel dampners at 142,000 because they were beginning to decompose and move around. They are rubber, so age does have an effect on rubber.

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Re: u-joint

Postby WingAdmin » Sun Nov 29, 2015 9:20 pm

TAZZ wrote:
wingman12 wrote:could not hurt. my 1st universal joint went out at 82,000 miles. :D :D

Ok I can't believe we have to replace the U-joint after 80,000 miles. :evil: Do we also have to replace the driveshaft and the seals and spring or just the seals and spring on the shaft and the wheel damper. I'm asking so I can order all I need from Cyclemax and have everything and NOT say SHOOT I forgot something.


It's not the splines that wear out (assuming they are lubricated like they're supposed to be). It's the bearings in the joint itself. So while the universal joint wears out, the driveshaft/seals/spring are normally just fine.

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TAZZ
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1982 Honda GL1100 Aspencade 1994 Yamaha700

Re: u-joint

Postby TAZZ » Mon Nov 30, 2015 12:02 am

WingAdmin wrote:
TAZZ wrote:
wingman12 wrote:could not hurt. my 1st universal joint went out at 82,000 miles. :D :D

Ok I can't believe we have to replace the U-joint after 80,000 miles. :evil: Do we also have to replace the driveshaft and the seals and spring or just the seals and spring on the shaft and the wheel damper. I'm asking so I can order all I need from Cyclemax and have everything and NOT say SHOOT I forgot something.


It's not the splines that wear out (assuming they are lubricated like they're supposed to be). It's the bearings in the joint itself. So while the universal joint wears out, the driveshaft/seals/spring are normally just fine.
Thank WingA and WingM if there is many more information to make live easy keep the NEWS coming it help. You guys back East have it easy in the winter cause you don't ride here in Cal. we ride all year 'round. And WingA I have a question for u I see pic. of your boot and the # is 52104-MZO- A40 but cyclemax # is 52104-MN5-000 what the diff. in this boot.

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Re: u-joint

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Nov 30, 2015 9:34 am

TAZZ wrote:Thank WingA and WingM if there is many more information to make live easy keep the NEWS coming it help. You guys back East have it easy in the winter cause you don't ride here in Cal. we ride all year 'round. And WingA I have a question for u I see pic. of your boot and the # is 52104-MZO- A40 but cyclemax # is 52104-MN5-000 what the diff. in this boot.


The original 52104-MN5-000 is straight along the bellows:

Original boot
Original boot


Later, when the Valkyrie was introduced, it required a stronger drivetrain, so the transmission and other parts were strengthened - including the universal joint. These changes were also applied to the GL1500 Goldwing, with which it shared most of its parts. This larger, stronger universal joint requires a boot with an enlarged portion, the 52104-MZO-A40 in order to fit: the stronger universal joint will not fit inside the original boot.

Enlarged boot
Enlarged boot


If you order a new universal joint today, you will get the larger one, so you need to use the newer, enlarged boot if you are doing the replacement.

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Re: u-joint

Postby TAZZ » Wed Dec 09, 2015 3:08 pm

Ok guys need to ask before I order a new u-joint Does our u-joint on the 1500s go out at around 80,000 mile is this a maintenance we have to do every 80,000 miles. an if we feel the vibration like WingAdmin said r we down or do we have some miles left.

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Re: u-joint

Postby wingman12 » Wed Dec 09, 2015 3:18 pm

Tazz, I can only speak from personal experience on the u joints, 1st one went out at 82,000 did not feel any noticeable vibration and then "wham" at 80mph it failed, I thought I blew the engine. limped it the last few miles to the office and trailered it home. I lost my second one 60,000 miles later, yes I had vibration, not totally sure u joint was culprit but changed anyway because it was very loose and sloppy at the joint. I also found other issues that could have contributed to the vibration. To say are you down completely with a vibration, answer is no, but not long and you will be. and as Murphy's law will have it, you will be down in a bad place. :D :D

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1986 Kawasaki Ninja 1000R
1981 Honda CBX (not for sale)
1982 Honda GL1100 Aspencade 1994 Yamaha700

Re: u-joint

Postby TAZZ » Wed Dec 09, 2015 6:31 pm

wingman12 wrote:Tazz, I can only speak from personal experience on the u joints, 1st one went out at 82,000 did not feel any noticeable vibration and then "wham" at 80mph it failed, I thought I blew the engine. limped it the last few miles to the office and trailered it home. I lost my second one 60,000 miles later, yes I had vibration, not totally sure u joint was culprit but changed anyway because it was very loose and sloppy at the joint. I also found other issues that could have contributed to the vibration. To say are you down completely with a vibration, answer is no, but not long and you will be. and as Murphy's law will have it, you will be down in a bad place. :D :D

Wingman So there is NO maintenance on the U-joint so I guess it can let us down any place it wants 1 mile or 500mile from home is there a better way to prevent this from happening?

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Re: u-joint

Postby wingman12 » Wed Dec 09, 2015 6:38 pm

no grease fittings, sealed bearings, I can not see any preventative measures except proper alignment with the rear wheel, proper maintenance of the final drive and lubrication with Moly 60 on all splines, the only other suggestion is :o :o Do Not Drive Your Wing :lol: :lol: . and I do not think that solution will fly very far. :D :D

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Re: u-joint

Postby WingAdmin » Thu Dec 10, 2015 9:40 am

TAZZ wrote:
wingman12 wrote:Tazz, I can only speak from personal experience on the u joints, 1st one went out at 82,000 did not feel any noticeable vibration and then "wham" at 80mph it failed, I thought I blew the engine. limped it the last few miles to the office and trailered it home. I lost my second one 60,000 miles later, yes I had vibration, not totally sure u joint was culprit but changed anyway because it was very loose and sloppy at the joint. I also found other issues that could have contributed to the vibration. To say are you down completely with a vibration, answer is no, but not long and you will be. and as Murphy's law will have it, you will be down in a bad place. :D :D

Wingman So there is NO maintenance on the U-joint so I guess it can let us down any place it wants 1 mile or 500mile from home is there a better way to prevent this from happening?


There's no maintenance on the universal joint itself - the bearings are sealed. There was a shortage of them a few years ago when Honda lost its supplier, and there were some aftermarket rebuilders that put bearings in them that you could lubricate and replace - but with the availability of them again, that's not really fiscally sensible.

Just pay attention to your bike, start feeling for vibration at around 70,000 miles or so, and when you start to feel it (usually in your footpegs), schedule some time to change it out.

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TAZZ
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1986 Kawasaki Ninja 1000R
1981 Honda CBX (not for sale)
1982 Honda GL1100 Aspencade 1994 Yamaha700

Re: u-joint

Postby TAZZ » Thu Dec 10, 2015 7:14 pm

WingAdmin wrote:
TAZZ wrote:
wingman12 wrote:Tazz, I can only speak from personal experience on the u joints, 1st one went out at 82,000 did not feel any noticeable vibration and then "wham" at 80mph it failed, I thought I blew the engine. limped it the last few miles to the office and trailered it home. I lost my second one 60,000 miles later, yes I had vibration, not totally sure u joint was culprit but changed anyway because it was very loose and sloppy at the joint. I also found other issues that could have contributed to the vibration. To say are you down completely with a vibration, answer is no, but not long and you will be. and as Murphy's law will have it, you will be down in a bad place. :D :D

Wingman So there is NO maintenance on the U-joint so I guess it can let us down any place it wants 1 mile or 500mile from home is there a better way to prevent this from happening?


There's no maintenance on the universal joint itself - the bearings are sealed. There was a shortage of them a few years ago when Honda lost its supplier, and there were some aftermarket rebuilders that put bearings in them that you could lubricate and replace - but with the availability of them again, that's not really fiscally sensible.

Just pay attention to your bike, start feeling for vibration at around 70,000 miles or so, and when you start to feel it (usually in your footpegs), schedule some time to change it out.

Ok what I'm try to ask is the we take our alternator our every 20 to 40,000mile and clean it but it all back and we r good for other 20 to 40,000 miles. With the U-joint how many mile should we go before we should replace it cause the book say NOTHING about it. some here say they had to replace their at 80,000mile an other say he lost the second one at 60,000mile just wanting to get an idea went to replace the u joint before it breaking down 100 to 2000mile from home.

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Re: u-joint

Postby wingman12 » Thu Dec 10, 2015 7:52 pm

when you feel the vibration in your foot pegs. there is no magic must change mileage. :D :D

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Re: u-joint

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Dec 14, 2015 12:44 pm

Correct. When it goes depends on how much you weigh, how many hills you normally ride on, whether or not you pull a trailer, as well as how many miles you've ridden. Basically the more work it's been made to do, the more likely it's going to fail.

If you're that worried about being stranded, buy a spare one, throw it in your bags with a few tools and take it with you. :) That said, I had a good 500 miles of riding after I first noticed the vibration before I had the time to change it out, with no harmful effects.




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