Bike oil


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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hap2
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Bike oil

Postby hap2 » Sun May 29, 2016 2:32 pm



Bike Oil is really black. Is Castrol GTX about the best for non-synthetic? Also, can u recommend a good additive? Also, is the oil drain bolt a #14 size? What about the rear end oil? (I don't even wanna ride it much until I get the oil (& preferably rear end oil too) changed.

Thank you.



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Bluewaterhooker0
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Re: Bike oil

Postby Bluewaterhooker0 » Sun May 29, 2016 6:25 pm

According to the parts fische, it is a 14mm bolt, plus crush washer.
Oil additive ???
For cleanup, lots of folks seem to recommend Seafoam additive, 16oz. bottle. You'll probably need to drain some oil to add that much to the case. Then drive it for about 100 miles to let it do its thing. I would think you might want to take it easy on that 100 miles, since you have watered down your oil with the Seafoam. Then drain immediately while the crud is suspended, replace the filter, and add new oil.
Other than cleanup, I wouldn't add anything to the oil. Doesn't need it, and most oils have additives for proper operation.
Which oil ? Hold on, and you'll have a few hundred recommendations. But, I use Mobil1 bike specific oil 10w-40. Lots of opinions on oil. The only complaints I hear about Mobil1, is the cost. That's not an issue I consider worthy of discussion. The bike is more important than the little difference per mile, that the oil will cost.
The rear end is 90W gear oil, as I recall. Synthetic is even better, I think. Again, cost is not an issue per mile.

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Dusty Boots
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Re: Bike oil

Postby Dusty Boots » Sun May 29, 2016 7:12 pm

It's a 14 mm bolt size, but it's a 17mm socket that fits the head of the bolt.
Oil .... buy a quality, non energy conserving oil and change it every 5,000 km
Myself, I like to use a 15W-40 diesel oil, as it has better detergent properties and withstands the shearing actions of the gears better. The brand I use is very hard to get in Canada (Chevron Delo 400), so I would recommend the Shell Rotella T 15W40

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hap2
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Re: Bike oil

Postby hap2 » Sun May 29, 2016 7:56 pm

Thanx for the feedback. I've been using Castrol GTX, but I can try Mobile IF it's available here in Canada. ( I'm thinkin it probly is)

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Re: Bike oil

Postby FM-USA » Mon May 30, 2016 8:00 am

Like many others, Delo-400 15w40 here.
Last month I noticed WallyMart put Delo on a slight sale...( $.70 off). Was wondering why such a meager amount only to find last night the price went UP. Reg. $12.99 to $14.79

IF you're only talking about one item on our bikes not to worry about cost, no problem. But when a LOT of items come into play, adding all together becomes a fair sum.

TWO schools of thought.
:? "One who has money to burn, the other prints fake money to burn." :( .... :) :D :lol:

8-)

.
"OIL CHANGE?" _FM 07-2009
Know its new taste and be loyal, you'll know when to change that oil.
Taste testing as the miles flow, souring as that acid grows.
And don't flirt with dirt or darkened oil, all the faster your engine will spoil.

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golden highway
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Re: Bike oil

Postby golden highway » Mon May 30, 2016 9:28 am

Switched from Shell Rotella 15w 40w to Mobile 4t 10 w 40w synthetic and so far I haven't noticed anf difference other then l spent 3 times as much for and oil change.

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Re: Bike oil

Postby harvey01 » Mon May 30, 2016 10:50 am

I prefer Honda GN4 in an older bike. Honda uses it so it must be good. Now for a newer bike such as the GL1800 I use Honda HP4. With a little searching you can get either in quart or gallon containers and/or by the case which usually reduces the price.
harvey
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Bluewaterhooker0
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Re: Bike oil

Postby Bluewaterhooker0 » Mon May 30, 2016 5:37 pm

I suspect the only difference anyone would see between Synthetic and Non, would only be a very long term benefit in reduced wear on the internal parts of the engine, and reduced or nonexistent sludge. That's pretty hard to quantify without a controlled test in a lab environment. I choose the Mobil1 after much reading, and the apparent chemical makeup of the synthetic compared to the conventional. I suppose any two bikes will probably run fine on either. And, both may run to a very old age. I just think the synthetic will keep the engine in a newer state of mechanical operation for a longer period of time. I'm no rich guy with money to burn, and my printing press was retired long ago. But, I do about 5K miles per year, which at today's prices for non-ethanol, runs about $325 per year. I figure an additional $35 in oil, or about 10% of the cost of fuel, is a pretty reasonable cost to benefit ratio. I also don't shop tires based on price. If it's the only thing between me and the pavement, I spend what will keep that distance. Call me crazy.

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Re: Bike oil

Postby FM-USA » Mon May 30, 2016 7:35 pm

E-YOWZERS Bluewaterhooker0...
You're the FIRST one I ever read that put all 3 controversial subjects in one BLURB.
OIL, FUEL and TIRES
... now to refine that into one sentence and you'll be ONE HECK of a Guru. :lol:
(You'll get no help from Steve Goodman)
"OIL CHANGE?" _FM 07-2009
Know its new taste and be loyal, you'll know when to change that oil.
Taste testing as the miles flow, souring as that acid grows.
And don't flirt with dirt or darkened oil, all the faster your engine will spoil.

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Bluewaterhooker0
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Re: Bike oil

Postby Bluewaterhooker0 » Mon May 30, 2016 8:33 pm

FM-USA wrote:E-YOWZERS Bluewaterhooker0...
You're the FIRST one I ever read that put all 3 controversial subjects in one BLURB.
OIL, FUEL and TIRES
... now to refine that into one sentence and you'll be ONE HECK of a Guru. :lol:
(You'll get no help from Steve Goodman)


You haven't heard my dissertation on WOMEN !!! :shock: :D :twisted:

Four score, and 7 years ago......nevermind, that's another one :o

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FM-USA
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iRide 24/365 99% SmileMiles
================
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Re: Bike oil

Postby FM-USA » Mon May 30, 2016 8:39 pm

Bluewaterhooker0 wrote:You haven't heard my dissertation on WOMEN !!! :shock: :D :twisted:
Four score, and 7 years ago......nevermind, that's another one :o

My score of 7 was,.... too many decades ago. :|
"OIL CHANGE?" _FM 07-2009
Know its new taste and be loyal, you'll know when to change that oil.
Taste testing as the miles flow, souring as that acid grows.
And don't flirt with dirt or darkened oil, all the faster your engine will spoil.

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insanemoondoggie
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Re: Bike oil

Postby insanemoondoggie » Tue May 31, 2016 5:04 pm

I used Castrol GTX for many years and change the oil every 2500 miles. It's good dino oil for bikes. 4 years ago I switch my Vulcan Nomad over to Amsoil and notice right from the start the engine cooling fan did not run as often or as long as it use to.
Bought a Gl1500 4 months ago and changed the oil on it with Amsoil, I change my oil at 6000 miles and it is due. The old Amsoil looks still very clean and could probably just change the oil filter and go another 4000 miles. Been a mechanic a long time, was hard for me to switch from dino oil, especially GTX but synthetic is the way to go for me now.

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hap2
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Re: Bike oil

Postby hap2 » Tue May 31, 2016 5:23 pm

Ya, I kinda don't wanna go synthetic as I'm an old dino too & like to be as original as I can be, but I'll try to break down & get synthetic next time. Amsoil seems popular. 10W40 good, or what?

Thanx

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insanemoondoggie
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Re: Bike oil

Postby insanemoondoggie » Tue May 31, 2016 5:54 pm

hap2 wrote:Ya, I kinda don't wanna go synthetic as I'm an old dino too & like to be as original as I can be, but I'll try to break down & get synthetic next time. Amsoil seems popular. 10W40 good, or what?

Thanx


I use their Metric Cruiser 10w40 and also use their oil filter, with as many bikes as I have I buy it by the gallon.

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hap2
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Re: Bike oil

Postby hap2 » Tue May 31, 2016 6:38 pm

ok.. Now I find out I gotta get rear brake pads. Any particular kind I shud get? Sintered, semi-cintered, ceramic, organic? I sure dunno. I'm not a racer & just (mostly) ride real easy...75% in the city, mostly 1-up.

What kind to get & where to gettem? Cost is of course a factor, but the longevity of the pads & rotor is utmost.

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FM-USA
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Re: Bike oil

Postby FM-USA » Tue May 31, 2016 7:26 pm

hap2 wrote:ok.. Now I find out I gotta get rear brake pads. Any particular kind I shud get? Sintered, semi-cintered, ceramic, organic? I sure dunno. I'm not a racer & just (mostly) ride real easy...75% in the city, mostly 1-up.

What kind to get & where to gettem? Cost is of course a factor, but the longevity of the pads & rotor is utmost.

IF you're not one who likes to replace rear pads or wheels often, go OEM, last the longest.
OTHERWISE....
Ceramics? (No comment, never used them)
Organic?... NOT! (Slippery when wet)
Metallica's?... NOT! (Well... unless Ozzie is paying for the rotor replacements)
Kevlar?... 75% $$ lower than OEM. They do powder the wheels a little, OEMs much less.
OEM Honda? (IF ya got the money, they last the longest)

My take on Kevlar pads.
I've been using these for well over a year now and in comparison to OEM, generally speaking, they're about 10% less in stopping power. Roughly last about 75% that of OEM in longevity. As always, depends how you ride.
The OEM pads I can lockup both wheels with just over moderate pressure, ABS riders won't have a problem. Kevlar will but it takes a bit more to do so. I'm not one who likes to lock the wheels up on my 1500. Hauling my trailer, I don't care for them Cheek-Squeeze moment[s]. Trailer has brakes so it's almost a moot point for me.

SOMEWHERE late 2015, I read there's a new long lasting and near powderless pad coming out. It's said to save the rotor yet still grab like OEM.
I JUST CAN'T find that news item.
MAYBE someone knows and will post about it.

Like I mentioned, everyone rides different,
;)
"OIL CHANGE?" _FM 07-2009
Know its new taste and be loyal, you'll know when to change that oil.
Taste testing as the miles flow, souring as that acid grows.
And don't flirt with dirt or darkened oil, all the faster your engine will spoil.

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Re: Bike oil

Postby chads920 » Wed Jun 01, 2016 7:55 am

I purchase and use oil based on the oil specification for the type of engine. I add (to my 93 1500 - actually all my gas and diesel engines) Lucus oil stabilizer, 500 ml, with each oil change. I have experienced no ill effects. I also use Lucus injector cleaner in my gas (some blue smoke at start up) seem to provide some lubricity to the current fuels available and cleans to a degree. Change oil often and use a good oil filter seems to work for me. dumping synthetic oil after 5000 km seems like a wast of money IMO, change your filter and add more oil….
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hap2
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Re: Bike oil

Postby hap2 » Wed Jun 01, 2016 11:15 am

I gotta wet clutch & a mechanic (who works on his own wing) suggested I don't use oil additive as that might burn out the clutch in some way. I really dunno what he's talking about, (as I ain't all that mechanically inclined) but he does.

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Re: Bike oil

Postby chads920 » Wed Jun 01, 2016 5:00 pm

not having any issue with the clutch if anything the engine noise has quietened down. The additive I use clings to things that move for sure but no problems with slipping.
Sometimes your find yourself on a lonely open road, sometimes on a open road you find yourself.
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OldZX11Rider
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Re: Bike oil

Postby OldZX11Rider » Wed Jun 01, 2016 8:01 pm

My owners manual made recommendations as to what oil to use according to temperatures you expect to be riding in.
I remember reading an article that was about cars but I think would be applicable to motorcycles. The oil brand was not as important as remembering to change it regularly when it gets dirty.
I like synthetic oil but that's just a personal choice.
Check it often and change it when it gets dirty. Oil and filters are not that expensive. I've also used Castrol GTX and never had any problems in the bikes I used it in. :D
For he is the minister of God to thee for good. But if thou do that which is evil, be afraid; for he beareth not the sword in vain:

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hap2
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Re: Bike oil

Postby hap2 » Wed Jun 01, 2016 8:12 pm

Just wanted to let everyone here know the oil issue isn't much of a question now as I got it changed using Castrol GTX. Maybe synthetic next time. But right now the issue is what kind of brake pads to get (sintered, semi-sintered, or what) as it's pretty well metal to metal. The rotor is a bit scoured & if u wanna see a pic of it, I have a couple (each side), but I don;t think I shud ride until I get that fixed.

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Re: Bike oil

Postby OldZX11Rider » Wed Jun 01, 2016 8:19 pm

I just replaced all my brake pads with organic ones. My discs are worn and hopefully I can replace them this next winter.
I went with organic pads as I had read they're easier on the discs. Are they the best in the world? I doubt it, but they do work. Oh, they're made by EBC. ;)
For he is the minister of God to thee for good. But if thou do that which is evil, be afraid; for he beareth not the sword in vain:

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Re: Bike oil

Postby OldZX11Rider » Wed Jun 01, 2016 8:24 pm

Oh, I'm not knocking EBC. If my discs were in great shape, I probably would have gone with a semi-metallic for all around better braking.
At least for the way I ride. :lol:
For he is the minister of God to thee for good. But if thou do that which is evil, be afraid; for he beareth not the sword in vain:

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hap2
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Re: Bike oil

Postby hap2 » Wed Jun 01, 2016 9:09 pm

Here's what the left side of my rotors look like. The other side's a bit better, but not much. Any suggestions?

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FM-USA
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MADE_IT!_200K_Oct_17/2016
iRide 24/365 99% SmileMiles
================
"You don't buy yourself a
HD to be SATISFIED,...
you buy it to keep your
HD friends PACIFIED."
================
|
ANTAGONISTS need not post.
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==================

Re: Bike oil

Postby FM-USA » Wed Jun 01, 2016 11:05 pm

Poor pix but it looks like it's NOT deeply scored and the little holes show lots of rotor meat left.

Toss in new pads and in a few 100 miles it'll look smooth and near shiny.
I have seen MUCH worse and still cleaned up.... mine.

RIDE ON


"OIL CHANGE?" _FM 07-2009
Know its new taste and be loyal, you'll know when to change that oil.
Taste testing as the miles flow, souring as that acid grows.
And don't flirt with dirt or darkened oil, all the faster your engine will spoil.


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