WIRE RING of FIRE


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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TAZZ
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WIRE RING of FIRE

Postby TAZZ » Thu Aug 11, 2016 12:01 am



Hi guys do any of you have a diagram off your wires to the ring of fire so you can remove the rotor cover and disconnect the wire right there by the rotor cover. Do you have picture off your diagram on paper. :oops:



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Uncle Fester
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Re: WIRE RING of FIRE

Postby Uncle Fester » Thu Aug 11, 2016 2:39 am

Mine was on the bike when I got it, but it is wired to ground to the forks via a mounting bolt, and the "hot" wire has a bullet plug set up on each side. . .. have not had a issue yet in the 2.5 yrs I have owned it. :D
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spiralout
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Re: WIRE RING of FIRE

Postby spiralout » Thu Aug 11, 2016 10:52 am

Uncle Fester wrote:Mine was on the bike when I got it, but it is wired to ground to the forks via a mounting bolt, and the "hot" wire has a bullet plug set up on each side. . .. have not had a issue yet in the 2.5 yrs I have owned it. :D

Same here. Bullet connectors for the hot and up to a 3 switch block mounted on the front master reservoir.

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TAZZ
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1986 Kawasaki Ninja 1000R
1981 Honda CBX (not for sale)
1982 Honda GL1100 Aspencade 1994 Yamaha700

Re: WIRE RING of FIRE

Postby TAZZ » Fri Aug 12, 2016 10:48 am

Thank Guys did it and it work.

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Uncle Fester
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Re: WIRE RING of FIRE

Postby Uncle Fester » Fri Aug 12, 2016 2:33 pm

Glad to hear it worked out for you too . . . . Did you get a Amber/Amber or Amber/Red & Blue or what ?
Reputation is what other people know about you. Honor is what you know about yourself. Our stress about it happens when the two aren't the same. Be true to yourself and to hell with what everyone else thinks!

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TAZZ
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1986 Kawasaki Ninja 1000R
1981 Honda CBX (not for sale)
1982 Honda GL1100 Aspencade 1994 Yamaha700

Re: WIRE RING of FIRE

Postby TAZZ » Fri Aug 12, 2016 5:38 pm

I got the Amber/Red/Blue. I have the 4 Lighted switch panel one switch work the Round running light kit I got at Auto Zone they are LED lights I'm not happy with then can't see ****. Later I was going to re-wire the ring of fire so the One switch work the left the other switch the right side of the ring of fire right how I have one wire to the left side and I split the wire to the right side. So I have two switch left. I went for a ride last nite and i see my voltmeter down from 13.8/9 to 13.3/4 so maybe I need to upgrade my Alternator to 85 or 95 amps I how have a 45 amps.

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NVSB4
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Re: WIRE RING of FIRE

Postby NVSB4 » Fri Aug 12, 2016 6:43 pm

TAZZ wrote:I went for a ride last nite and i see my voltmeter down from 13.8/9 to 13.3/4 so maybe I need to upgrade my Alternator to 85 or 95 amps I how have a 45 amps.

13.3 is still fine to charge the battery while you're moving. What is the voltmeter showing when you're stopped and at idle?
Either way, you can't go wrong with the alternator upgrade to the Lactrical 85 amp.
It's never too late to have a happy childhood!

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TAZZ
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1979 Kawasaki 1000st, 1983 Suzuki GS1150se
1986 Kawasaki Ninja 1000R
1981 Honda CBX (not for sale)
1982 Honda GL1100 Aspencade 1994 Yamaha700

Re: WIRE RING of FIRE

Postby TAZZ » Fri Aug 12, 2016 7:34 pm

NVSB4 wrote:
TAZZ wrote:I went for a ride last nite and i see my voltmeter down from 13.8/9 to 13.3/4 so maybe I need to upgrade my Alternator to 85 or 95 amps I how have a 45 amps.

13.3 is still fine to charge the battery while you're moving. What is the voltmeter showing when you're stopped and at idle?
Either way, you can't go wrong with the alternator upgrade to the Lactrical 85 amp.

12.9 went I'm not moving

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Re: WIRE RING of FIRE

Postby NVSB4 » Fri Aug 12, 2016 9:06 pm

TAZZ wrote:12.9 went I'm not moving

That's a little low, the Service Manual says that you should get 13.5-15.5, but the low number could be due to anything added drawing a load.
To me, as long as it's charging over 12 at idle, you shouldn't have an issue.
It's never too late to have a happy childhood!

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Re: WIRE RING of FIRE

Postby Uncle Fester » Sat Aug 13, 2016 5:45 pm

NVSB4 wrote:
TAZZ wrote:12.9 went I'm not moving

That's a little low, the Service Manual says that you should get 13.5-15.5, but the low number could be due to anything added drawing a load.
To me, as long as it's charging over 12 at idle, you shouldn't have an issue.



I second that thought, 12.9 is a touch low, but not bad. Now if you plan on adding even more lights, or a stereo, I would definitely upgrade to the 85-95 amp alternator and gell battery. Thats my $.02 for what its worth.
Reputation is what other people know about you. Honor is what you know about yourself. Our stress about it happens when the two aren't the same. Be true to yourself and to hell with what everyone else thinks!

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TAZZ
Posts: 139
Joined: Tue Aug 25, 2009 11:46 am
Location: Del Rey CA
Motorcycle: 1997 Honda GL1500se
1968 Honda CL350 Scramble,
1970Honda 750k,1976 Suzuki GT550,
1979 Kawasaki 1000st, 1983 Suzuki GS1150se
1986 Kawasaki Ninja 1000R
1981 Honda CBX (not for sale)
1982 Honda GL1100 Aspencade 1994 Yamaha700

Re: WIRE RING of FIRE

Postby TAZZ » Sat Aug 13, 2016 8:47 pm

Uncle Fester wrote:
NVSB4 wrote:
TAZZ wrote:12.9 went I'm not moving

That's a little low, the Service Manual says that you should get 13.5-15.5, but the low number could be due to anything added drawing a load.
To me, as long as it's charging over 12 at idle, you shouldn't have an issue.



I second that thought, 12.9 is a touch low, but not bad. Now if you plan on adding even more lights, or a stereo, I would definitely upgrade to the 85-95 amp alternator and gell battery. Thats my $.02 for what its worth.

I had a AGM sealed battery on the bike for has long as I can remember I was NOT planning on add any more lights but maybe add LED head lights later and LED my radio lights the other nite I noticed the some of my radio lights were OUT :x :x the sad thing is I have an extra 40amp alternator. I wanted to get a 85/95 amp alternator just didn't wanted to have 3 alternator.

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Re: WIRE RING of FIRE

Postby Uncle Fester » Sun Aug 14, 2016 1:02 am

TAZZ wrote:
Uncle Fester wrote:
NVSB4 wrote:That's a little low, the Service Manual says that you should get 13.5-15.5, but the low number could be due to anything added drawing a load.
To me, as long as it's charging over 12 at idle, you shouldn't have an issue.



I second that thought, 12.9 is a touch low, but not bad. Now if you plan on adding even more lights, or a stereo, I would definitely upgrade to the 85-95 amp alternator and gell battery. Thats my $.02 for what its worth.

I had a AGM sealed battery on the bike for has long as I can remember I was NOT planning on add any more lights but maybe add LED head lights later and LED my radio lights the other nite I noticed the some of my radio lights were OUT :x :x the sad thing is I have an extra 40amp alternator. I wanted to get a 85/95 amp alternator just didn't wanted to have 3 alternator.


If you are not adding more lights, and even changing more of the stock one over to LEDs, your stock alt should be fine for the job as LEDs draw a lot less power than incandesant bulbs doing the same job.
Reputation is what other people know about you. Honor is what you know about yourself. Our stress about it happens when the two aren't the same. Be true to yourself and to hell with what everyone else thinks!

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Bluewaterhooker0
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Re: WIRE RING of FIRE

Postby Bluewaterhooker0 » Sun Aug 14, 2016 11:24 am

TAZZ wrote:
NVSB4 wrote:
TAZZ wrote:I went for a ride last nite and i see my voltmeter down from 13.8/9 to 13.3/4 so maybe I need to upgrade my Alternator to 85 or 95 amps I how have a 45 amps.

13.3 is still fine to charge the battery while you're moving. What is the voltmeter showing when you're stopped and at idle?
Either way, you can't go wrong with the alternator upgrade to the Lactrical 85 amp.

12.9 went I'm not moving


The Yuasa Technical Manual states:
Open circuit voltage for a fully, 100% charged AGM battery is 12.8 to 13.0 volts. AGM batteries that are
75% to 100% charged will measure 12.5 to 12.8 volts.
Conventional batteries have slightly lower open circuit voltages:
12.6 volts (12.8 volts with Sulfate Stop) for 100% charge and 12.4 for 75% charge.

You will find that at idle (12.9V), you are not charging your battery at all, and at speed (13.3V), you are not providing enough voltage to keep the battery at a 100% charge. I used to have an OEM alternator. After some extended rides of 120 miles, I would periodically put it on a Battery Tender Plus, to see how close the battery was to a full charge. It would take upwards of 6-8 hours to reach a full charge, according to the tender.

Fortunately, my OEM alternator died :-), requiring me to get a new one. I replaced it with a high output. Mine happened to be the Lactrical 85A, which maintains a constant 13.9 - 14.1V at any engine speed. When I then checked my state of charge with the Battery Tender, it would reach the full charge indication in 1/2 hour. This convinced me of the value of a high output alternator. My repaired OEM is now a handy backup for emergencies.

Elsewhere in that Yuasa manual, it describes the downside of charging at a rate of 14.4 V or above, for extended periods of time, such as a long ride. It can lead to overcharging, and boiling of the electrolyte, whether AGM or standard lead/acid. The standard battery will boil, and the AGM will vent from over-pressurization. It would appear that +/- 14V is a pretty good charge voltage to maintain, without overcharging.

I wouldn't hesitate to get an upgraded alternator, whatever the brand or size. I've been extremely happy with mine. It also helps when using reverse, as the additional voltage and better state of battery charge makes the starter motor happier.

For good LED driving lights, which I think is what you were unhappy about from Autozone, there are a few good ones out there from Superbright LEDs and Ebay. I got a pair from Ebay (SPOT BEAM of 15 degrees), and am very happy with them after 10K miles. Superbrights are more costly, but apparently carry a lifetime warranty, and have a slightly better spot beam angle of 10 degrees.

http://www.yuasabatteries.com/pdfs/TechManual_2014.pdf

http://www.ebay.com/itm/172147323928?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
(need to verify beam angle from the seller. The exact ones I got are no longer listed. 10-15 degrees would be acceptable if you want to see down the road. From the photos in the listing, they appear to be identical to the ones I purchased, both the case, and the lens configuration)

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinf ... ifications

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Re: WIRE RING of FIRE

Postby Mh434 » Sun Aug 14, 2016 11:55 am

At idle, with the brakes on, seems to be the worst-case scenario for charging, unless the brake lights have been changed for LED's. Mine haven't been changed (yet!), and while I can see a momentary drop in voltage when I first activate the brakes, the LActrical 95-amp alt instantly catches up. My voltage typically runs at about 12.8 - 12.9 on the "accessory" circuit (14.1 - 14.2 at the battery) at idle, with the brake lights on (I should add that I once counted the lighting elements on the back of my SE - there are 76 of 'em total, most of which are LED's, but there are still several incandescent brake light bulbs I need to upgrade).

The OEM Honda alt only makes 40 amps, maxxed out, and at best is marginal at idle. Changing to all LED's (headlights, too) will help a great deal, as there will finally be a little juice left over from the OEM alt. With all incandescent bulbs, there's virtually nothing left over, and an aging battery will only make things worse.

I still have my OEM (Japan-built) Honda alt. It was working fine when I changed it for the 95-amp LActrical, but I have SO much extra juice now that adding extra electrical accessories is worry-free. I do recommend it.

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Re: WIRE RING of FIRE

Postby Bluewaterhooker0 » Sun Aug 14, 2016 1:01 pm

I run the 55/60W standard H4 headlight bulbs, that are 10/15W each above the OEM 45/45W. I also run 35W bulbs in the lower cowl that are on all the time. That's 10W each above OEM 25W bulbs. When you add in the tail brake lights to the front 40W additional wattage, it takes a toll on the 40A alternator. I had changed my tail lights to LED shortly before the OEM alternator died, and it certainly was an improvement in the load on the system. No more dimming headlights upon braking at idle. I still prefer the LED tail lights for their quickness of lighting with my brake modulator, even though the new alternator could care less about the load. The apparent brightness of the rapid LED flash is more noticeable. I've also got a ton of additional LEDs in various places, but their load value is negligible. I suspect most folks change out the headlights to the 55/60W bulbs and have alternator issues from that point on. It seems they designed the alternator with just enough power to handle the OEM bulbs, and that's it. As soon as you deviate from that, the OEM alternator is inadequate.

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TAZZ
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Re: WIRE RING of FIRE

Postby TAZZ » Sun Aug 14, 2016 9:10 pm

Ok guys why I have two alternator it go back about 11yr went I got the goldwing about 20 to 30 mile from home bike stop running I had a LED light volt meter and didn't understand it at the time so I had the bike tow home charge the battery the next day took the bike in and they say it say the alternator was BAD. Had a new 40 amp volt alternator install got my old one back and sent it to Ken Heming and had it rebuilt. That how I got two 40 amp :( . Today I remove the Hitachi and install Ken rebuilt alternator went for a ride. I have TWO volt meter one is a Mini LED digital the other is a Battery Bug meter. Ok back to the ride BB meter show 14 to 14.1 the Mini LED show 13.8/9 went riding at stop BB 13.4/5 Mini 13.2/3. The BB is install into the Battery the Mini LED is into the ACC. I going to take the Hitachi Alternator part and clean good then but it all bank together. So want do you guys think of the Diff. reading.

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Re: WIRE RING of FIRE

Postby Bluewaterhooker0 » Sun Aug 14, 2016 9:37 pm

I have no idea what a Battery Bug is, but it doesn't sound like a Fluke Meter. I would question its accuracy from the get go. I am guessing when you took the first reading, it was just after startup, while enriched, and at a higher than normal idle speed. Thus the higher reading. The other readings sound something akin to my old OEM alternator. It's been so long, I don't remember exactly. But 13.2V is only .4V above static battery voltage. Not much "push" for a good charge. It may be a rebuilt, but is still an OEM 40A unit.

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TAZZ
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Motorcycle: 1997 Honda GL1500se
1968 Honda CL350 Scramble,
1970Honda 750k,1976 Suzuki GT550,
1979 Kawasaki 1000st, 1983 Suzuki GS1150se
1986 Kawasaki Ninja 1000R
1981 Honda CBX (not for sale)
1982 Honda GL1100 Aspencade 1994 Yamaha700

Re: WIRE RING of FIRE

Postby TAZZ » Mon Aug 15, 2016 1:38 am

Bluewaterhooker0 wrote:I have no idea what a Battery Bug is, but it doesn't sound like a Fluke Meter. I would question its accuracy from the get go. I am guessing when you took the first reading, it was just after startup, while enriched, and at a higher than normal idle speed. Thus the higher reading. The other readings sound something akin to my old OEM alternator. It's been so long, I don't remember exactly. But 13.2V is only .4V above static battery voltage. Not much "push" for a good charge. It may be a rebuilt, but is still an OEM 40A unit.

Bluewaterhooker the battery bug was design by Senior Technical Editor Stu Oltman from GWRRA want it does it give you the Volt and the Health of the battery the only thing the it does not have is a nite lite that's why i have the Mini LED digital voltmeter for nite driving

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TAZZ
Posts: 139
Joined: Tue Aug 25, 2009 11:46 am
Location: Del Rey CA
Motorcycle: 1997 Honda GL1500se
1968 Honda CL350 Scramble,
1970Honda 750k,1976 Suzuki GT550,
1979 Kawasaki 1000st, 1983 Suzuki GS1150se
1986 Kawasaki Ninja 1000R
1981 Honda CBX (not for sale)
1982 Honda GL1100 Aspencade 1994 Yamaha700

Re: WIRE RING of FIRE

Postby TAZZ » Mon Aug 15, 2016 10:58 am

TAZZ wrote:
Bluewaterhooker0 wrote:I have no idea what a Battery Bug is, but it doesn't sound like a Fluke Meter. I would question its accuracy from the get go. I am guessing when you took the first reading, it was just after startup, while enriched, and at a higher than normal idle speed. Thus the higher reading. The other readings sound something akin to my old OEM alternator. It's been so long, I don't remember exactly. But 13.2V is only .4V above static battery voltage. Not much "push" for a good charge. It may be a rebuilt, but is still an OEM 40A unit.

Bluewaterhooker the Argus Battery Bug was design by Senior Technical Editor Stu Oltman from GWRRA want it does it give you the Volt and the Health of the battery the only thing the it does not have is a nite lite that's why i have the Mini LED digital voltmeter for nite driving




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