Moving the trunk


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
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Uncle Fester
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Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2012 6:21 pm
Location: Bethany, Ok, right off Route 66 !
Motorcycle: 1996 GL-1500 Cali model 'Wing, blue in color, named Ol'Blue

Moving the trunk

Postby Uncle Fester » Sun Aug 28, 2016 10:49 am



After a 500 mile ride yesterday, the Wife and I figured out another inch or two room in the seat would be really nice for our comfort, so I was wondering if anyone has successfully moved the trunk back on a GL1500. Just to remind you incase it makes a difference, I have a 1996 Aspencade.

I know on my old Yamaha 1988 Venture Royale , I was able to unbolt the trunk, bolt a steel plate down and then bolt the trunk 2" farther back on the steel plate and it worked great. I also did something similar with my 1972 Honda CB750 with full Vetter system.

If this can be done, could someone provide me with a picture of the GL1500 with the trunk removed ( like for maintenance ) so I can see what I will be working against ?

Thanks all !


Reputation is what other people know about you. Honor is what you know about yourself. Our stress about it happens when the two aren't the same. Be true to yourself and to hell with what everyone else thinks!

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Happytrails
Posts: 653
Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2013 6:13 pm
Location: Tarentum, Pennsylvania
Motorcycle: 1991 Goldwing 1500 SE

Re: Moving the trunk

Postby Happytrails » Sun Aug 28, 2016 12:15 pm

I thought I watched a youtube video once where someone had moved there trunk back but they hadn't done anything about extending the seat to make up for it. I can look thru my photos and see if I have any photos of my trunk off. I've taken it off about a dozen or so times so I might have something that shows. Its pretty much what you might expect. 4 tabs with rubber on them where they contact the bottom of the trunk. The wire harness might be long enough to allow an inch or so of moving the trunk back. You might be able to use a plate method for it. The only thing that might pose a problem is the lever releases on the bottom of the trunk. :D :D
1991 GL1500 SE Anniversary Edition
Sun Flare Gold Metallic
Vallant Brown Inset

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Happytrails
Posts: 653
Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2013 6:13 pm
Location: Tarentum, Pennsylvania
Motorcycle: 1991 Goldwing 1500 SE

Re: Moving the trunk

Postby Happytrails » Sun Aug 28, 2016 12:20 pm

Found a fairly good photo with my trunk off.


1991 GL1500 SE Anniversary Edition
Sun Flare Gold Metallic
Vallant Brown Inset

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spiralout
Posts: 1049
Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2013 6:41 pm
Location: Alabama
Motorcycle: 1975 GL1000 (gone)
1980 GL1100I (with '77 1000 engine)
1996 GL1500 SE

Re: Moving the trunk

Postby spiralout » Sun Aug 28, 2016 1:29 pm

I downloaded this a few years ago and can't remember who the original author was to give credit. It's a pdf with the plans, materials and instructions.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/88876296/1500TrunkSetBack.pdf

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Michael Faircloth
Posts: 45
Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2014 9:38 pm
Location: Naples Fl.
Motorcycle: 1996 Goldwing Aspencade

Re: Moving the trunk

Postby Michael Faircloth » Sun Aug 28, 2016 1:41 pm

I did the trunk move on my '96 my apsy.... moved it back 3 inches because I am 6'4" and my wife is 5'12".... it is not hard at all. I did not make the special pieces to relocate the helmet locks because we never use them. If you don't have a custom seat , you will end up with a "hole" behind the seat... you can fill it with something, or get a custom seat as we did. Our seat is from Hartco and he made it to fit us and the new location, as well as making it an inch wider on each side. Now we are very comfortable... I rode the bike from south Florida to San Diego and back (6500 miles) and never was uncomfortable.
Mike in TN

CrystalPistol
Posts: 257
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2010 9:07 pm
Location: Shenandoah Valley of Virginia
Motorcycle: 1985 GL1200A
1997 GL1500SE Lehman Trike

Re: Moving the trunk

Postby CrystalPistol » Sun Aug 28, 2016 7:34 pm

I have posted this in other places, it was what I done on our GL1500 Trike 10-11 years ago. If you have the oem seat with or without a Utopia back rest maybe, just remove the rain cover from the pouch and she'll be pretty comfortable and moving that trunk backwards is like extending leg room as it'll move her rearwards.

On moving GL1500 trunk .... this was the info given me at a rally in Ohio in 2005, it was a "primer" for me. I actually made a one piece bracket for each side but the author did his with 4 smaller pieces, each moving a hole. I used steel and I redid my holes from metric to 1/4-20. Gave "Wife Unit" back the space she lost with my back rest but it also gives her more leg room. I did move mine 2-1/4" back.
Moving trunk on 1500

There is no bracket or kit to move the trunk back. The first one I did (mine) took me about 6 hrs to figure out with help from a motorcycle internet bulletin board. I disconnected and removed trunk and saddlebags completely. It now takes me about 2 hrs. without removing them.

You will need to remove the seat and the trunk bottom cover. Then have someone hold the trunk tilted while you cut off the plastic ribs underneath. You also have to make a couple mods to bike, but they are not noticeable afterwards. I learned on the GWRRA BB that it was possible to move the trunk either 2 ¼" or 1 ½" back. I thought that 2 ¼" was stretching the cables too far, so IMHO, 1 ½" was the way to go.

You need to either make 2 long or 4 short pieces for brackets. I used 4 pieces of ¼" thick aluminum (1 ¾"X 2 ½") and drilled two holes in ea, 1 ½" apart and 9/16" from one side. One I tapped 6mm X 1.0 for factory bolt to thread into and the next was ¼" to allow new longer 6mm bolt to go through to attach piece to framework. By using the 4 pieces, I did not have to worry about aligning the holes in the brackets perfectly (while doing this by myself).You have to cut away the ribs that are used for aligning the frt mounting holes of the trunk at the factory to allow the aluminum plates to lay flat. I removed the 3 shortest ribs.

Also, you need to cut the sides of the bottom cover at the access hole for the release levers, where they hit a bar under the trunk, (now that it is moved back). You will see where when you go to bolt up the bottom cover. I used a couple washers between the trunk and brackets to make up for the space difference the heads of the bolts made 'cause I did not want to countersink the bolt heads into the aluminum. I also put a couple small washers behind the opening levers bracket to move it a little so you could use the levers w/o hitting your fingertips on the bar.

The helmet locks also have to be moved back 1 ½". You will need to make brackets for them, too. I used thinner aluminum that was 4" X 1 ¾" with a corner cut off to be able to bolt up next to the angled frame. I drilled two holes 1 1/2" apart, the frt one was ¼" (to use the original bolt to attach it) and the rr one was 7/32". After filing off the small alignment tab, I then attached the locks to these brackets. Some guys don’t use the helmet locks, so they just remove them. The plus for all this is that you can now remove the saddlebags w/o removing the cover under the trunk, since the trunk is now ¼" higher and no more of the complaining about the backrest intruding into Her space!! I have only done 6 set-backs so far, any questions, e-mail me at (wingdr@aol.com) . The usual disclaimers apply, so do this only if you are qualified and have someone to help you. Also, it does not seem to affect the bike handling in any way.


Note in drawing below that trunk holes are closer side to side in front than they are in rear .... hence the offsets in my 1 piece brackets. Note that the trunk goes straight back, but the two brackets in my case are farther apart at rear ..... hence holes in pieces are slightly offset.

The hardest part is figuring out what to do with the trunk while doing it. Some remove it. I used pillows under the front lower corners and after undoing the release cables and a wire harness (it was years ago I done it) .... when ready, I tilted my trunk forwards and used a coat hanger to secure it while I measured. I think it'd probably be easier to do if the pieces were already made and you were just slipping into place. Did trim some short ribs .... or did I use spacers??? Maybe you know someone who's handy .... maybe get them to do it with you?

Below are a few pics I had of the stock OEM seat with Utopia back rest and no rain cover in seat pouch, "Wife Unit" said it was more comfortable without the cover in there. I used a piece of tempered particle board sealed and painted black velcroed to the front of the travel trunk. I now have a Corbin seat which I modified at back to eliminate that upturned portion that Corbin puts in the base.

Pics of stock seat and moved trunk, Utopia back rest.



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Uncle Fester
Posts: 1003
Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2012 6:21 pm
Location: Bethany, Ok, right off Route 66 !
Motorcycle: 1996 GL-1500 Cali model 'Wing, blue in color, named Ol'Blue

Re: Moving the trunk

Postby Uncle Fester » Sun Aug 28, 2016 9:22 pm

Thanks for the reply, the link and shared info should really help. I will probable try this during the winter riding break. Just FYI as I did not post it before, I have a Corbin seat on my bike, and will probably only move the trunk back about 1.5" (if that is possible) so as to not leave a huge gap between the seat and trunk.
Thanks again for all the help and information. I guess it is time to start buying parts, pieces, and bits so I can do this mod a little later on. Thanks again ! :D
Reputation is what other people know about you. Honor is what you know about yourself. Our stress about it happens when the two aren't the same. Be true to yourself and to hell with what everyone else thinks!

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CrystalPistol
Posts: 257
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2010 9:07 pm
Location: Shenandoah Valley of Virginia
Motorcycle: 1985 GL1200A
1997 GL1500SE Lehman Trike

Re: Moving the trunk

Postby CrystalPistol » Mon Aug 29, 2016 8:57 pm

Uncle Fester wrote: I have a Corbin seat on my bike, and will probably only move the trunk back about 1.5" (if that is possible) so as to not leave a huge gap between the seat and trunk.


The guy whom sent me the stuff years ago ..... I looked at his bike in Ohio .... his was moved 1.5" but he had determined it could go 2.25". Other lengths cause problems with release tabs and a cross member and stuff.

Since the pictures were taken that I posted above (2013 or 2014?) , I came across a nice Corbin that was just the wrong color ... majenta and it clashed on a red trike, but it was priced so I could take a chance. I pulled the rear of the cover loose and up over the front and modified the fiberglass seat pan by cutting out foam and that real high rear lip on the Corbin. I did it in two steps with trial fits by "Wife Unit" between. When I had it cut down enough, she said it was very comfortable. If you move the trunk back even just 1.5" I think your co-rider will feel that rear raised portion under her butt.

I think it's near 3.5" total I took off the base with a cutoff wheel in a angle grinder after I saw how thick the base was ..... then tucked and pulled the cover back and refastened with 3/16" pop rivets.

I did recolor the seat while doing this, finding that Duplicolor works on vinyl .... but NOT leather so the leather is done with SEM Classic Coat and their prep steps .... still looks great after over a year later.

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Dennis613l
Posts: 33
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2011 10:44 am
Location: Brockville, Ontario, Canada
Motorcycle: 1988 gl1500

Re: Moving the trunk

Postby Dennis613l » Tue Aug 30, 2016 5:23 pm

Did this a few years ago as well.
Wish they made these bike about 6 inches longer for us taller riders.
Aside from the extra space, the wife really likes not only the extra leg room, but most importantly does not have to spread her legs nearly as wide, much more comfortable on the hips for long rides.... :D




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