Blower Fuse Part Two ( Help )


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Willie McMahon
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Blower Fuse Part Two ( Help )

Post by Willie McMahon » Thu Aug 03, 2017 4:28 pm



The fuse number 2 , 15 amp which controlled the indicators , horn and the stop relay on my bro's GWing 1500SE is still blowing. We have clean all the fuses and relays with electrical cleaner looked for any cut wiring etc etc. The thing is when you start the bike every thing works the horn the brake lights the indicators. She will sit and tick over in the driveway no problem , you can turn the indicators from left to right and back again blow the horn put the brake lights on all day. It's as soon as you go to ride the bike and use the indicators horn or back brake the fuse blows. We replaced number 3 relay but to no avail.We would be very greatful for any help in this matter as it's driving us up the walls.
Thanks again
Willie ( Belfast )



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hugger-4641
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Re: Blower Fuse Part Two ( Help )

Post by hugger-4641 » Thu Aug 03, 2017 5:35 pm

Sounds like you might have pinched wire that is only shorted when there is someone on the bike. I would look under the seat and inspect the connectors there for any damage. I would also look a little closer at the turn signal canceling device since you might not see any problem with this while sitting in the driveway. A couple other things you might try:
Disconnect the wires at the horn and see if the fuse still blows.
Remove the turn signal bulbs one at a time and see if fuse still blows.
Remove brake light bulb and see if fuse still blows.
This might point you in the right direction as far as which circuit has the problem.

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ct1500
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Re: Blower Fuse Part Two ( Help )

Post by ct1500 » Thu Aug 03, 2017 9:11 pm

Put it up on the center stand and simulate a moving bike (in gear side stand up wheel moving going through the gears) and see if the fuse will still blow. Since the dash indicators are involved different things are going on with wiring and switches on a moving as opposed to stationary scenario.
This is what I do
Local and need repair help with your 1500, Valkyrie or ST please click contact.

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Erdeniz Umman
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Re: Blower Fuse Part Two ( Help )

Post by Erdeniz Umman » Fri Aug 04, 2017 1:55 am

Does your bike have the #2 relay (Stop lights relay)? Or is it like below?




The reason why I ask is, because there are some differences between US and Euro Spec bikes.

This is for US spec bikes.


So when you say number 2 fuse, the components connected to it may be different as well.

If your bike is an EuroSpec bike which does not have the relay #2, and you had added brake/tail lights on the trunk as on the US Spec bikes, you would be overloading the system, especially the brake lights will draw a lot of current (extra 4-5 amps at least) and the fuse will blow when it reaches its rating. And, you would load another extra 4-5 amps, if you have center brake lights on the rear fender.

And note that these loads will flow through the brake light switches also, which may exceed their amp rating as well.

Also if you had added extra wires to run these lights (on mine it was so) there may be a bad workmanship, and the wires may be shorting sometimes.

Willie McMahon
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Motorcycle: Honda Goldwing 2001 GL1800

Re: Blower Fuse Part Two ( Help )

Post by Willie McMahon » Sat Aug 05, 2017 5:08 am

hugger-4641 wrote:
Thu Aug 03, 2017 5:35 pm
Sounds like you might have pinched wire that is only shorted when there is someone on the bike. I would look under the seat and inspect the connectors there for any damage. I would also look a little closer at the turn signal canceling device since you might not see any problem with this while sitting in the driveway. A couple other things you might try:
Disconnect the wires at the horn and see if the fuse still blows.
Remove the turn signal bulbs one at a time and see if fuse still blows.
Remove brake light bulb and see if fuse still blows.
This might point you in the right direction as far as which circuit has the problem.
Thank you Hugger-4641 for your reply. I have had the Bro sit on his bike and bounce up and down, a wee bit funny but who cares. Trying the horn indicators and brake light between bounces fuse didn't blow. We took the seat off and checked for damaged cables no luck also We are going to try , as suggested, removing bulbs horn etc. Will post out come. Thanks again.

Willie McMahon
Posts: 13
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Motorcycle: Honda Goldwing 2001 GL1800

Re: Blower Fuse Part Two ( Help )

Post by Willie McMahon » Sat Aug 05, 2017 5:22 am

ct1500 wrote:
Thu Aug 03, 2017 9:11 pm
Put it up on the center stand and simulate a moving bike (in gear side stand up wheel moving going through the gears) and see if the fuse will still blow. Since the dash indicators are involved different things are going on with wiring and switches on a moving as opposed to stationary scenario.
Thank you ct1500 for your reply. Will try what you suggest. The Bro thinks it may be the switches will let you know the out come many thanks.

Willie McMahon
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Re: Blower Fuse Part Two ( Help )

Post by Willie McMahon » Sat Aug 05, 2017 5:42 am

Erdeniz Umman wrote:
Fri Aug 04, 2017 1:55 am
Does your bike have the #2 relay (Stop lights relay)? Or is it like below?
20161231_110613.jpg20161231_104811.jpg

The reason why I ask is, because there are some differences between US and Euro Spec bikes.

This is for US spec bikes.image.png

So when you say number 2 fuse, the components connected to it may be different as well.

If your bike is an EuroSpec bike which does not have the relay #2, and you had added brake/tail lights on the trunk as on the US Spec bikes, you would be overloading the system, especially the brake lights will draw a lot of current (extra 4-5 amps at least) and the fuse will blow when it reaches its rating. And, you would load another extra 4-5 amps, if you have center brake lights on the rear fender.

And note that these loads will flow through the brake light switches also, which may exceed their amp rating as well.

Also if you had added extra wires to run these lights (on mine it was so) there may be a bad workmanship, and the wires may be shorting sometimes.
Thank you Erdeniz for your reply. The fuse box and relay box are like the picture you sent. There is no #2 relay. We replaced #3 relay as it was very lose but this didn't solve the problem. The second fuse down is,as per the picture fuse 2 X 15amp for the indicators and horn etc. This is the one that keeps blowing. Some months ago the Bro got a towbar and towbar plug fitted. It has work OK over the last months. Could this over load the fuse ? it was fitted in a professional Auto Shop. As I have said it has worked ok for months after this was fitted. We do not want to increase the fuse encase we cause more damage. The people on the forum have been great with some really good pointers we will try all and will keep all informed. Many thanks again. Keep Safe.
Willie ( Belfast )

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Erdeniz Umman
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Re: Blower Fuse Part Two ( Help )

Post by Erdeniz Umman » Sat Aug 05, 2017 6:28 am

Willie McMahon wrote:
Sat Aug 05, 2017 5:42 am

Thank you Erdeniz for your reply. The fuse box and relay box are like the picture you sent. There is no #2 relay. We replaced #3 relay as it was very lose but this didn't solve the problem. The second fuse down is,as per the picture fuse 2 X 15amp for the indicators and horn etc. This is the one that keeps blowing. Some months ago the Bro got a towbar and towbar plug fitted. It has work OK over the last months. Could this over load the fuse ? it was fitted in a professional Auto Shop. As I have said it has worked ok for months after this was fitted. We do not want to increase the fuse encase we cause more damage. The people on the forum have been great with some really good pointers we will try all and will keep all informed. Many thanks again. Keep Safe.
Willie ( Belfast )
You are right about not to use a higher rating fuse. Because the wiring harness is not designed for such rating, it can cause a fire anytime.

Any additional brake light (originally 2 brake lights should be on EuroSpec bikes) will overload the circuit, because the bike does not have the #2 brake light relay as in the US models.

As I have said before, unfortunately, another side effect is that the main current will flow through the brake light switches on our EuroSpec bikes.

On the US models, only the relay coil is connected to the #2 fuse, and the brake light switches, so the main current flows through the relay #2 main contacts, and it has a separate fuse #3 for the brake lights.

So I would recommend you use 1157 LED bulbs, which have 1/10 amp draw of a regular incandescent bulbs in the tail/brake lights.

Currently, I have been using 6 LED brake/tail lights on my bike, and had no issues so far.

By the way, when you will use 1157 led bulbs instead of the incandescent 1157 bulbs, be aware of a cruise control set issue, which I have solved and explained in the following link.

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-g ... olved.html

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ct1500
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Re: Blower Fuse Part Two ( Help )

Post by ct1500 » Sat Aug 05, 2017 6:50 am

Curious to know if both your EuroSpec machines have the headlight on-off switch?
This is what I do
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Erdeniz Umman
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Re: Blower Fuse Part Two ( Help )

Post by Erdeniz Umman » Sat Aug 05, 2017 6:54 am

ct1500 wrote:
Sat Aug 05, 2017 6:50 am
Curious to know if both your EuroSpec machines have the headlight on-off switch?
Mine has a 3 position switch. Off, ON without headlights and ON with headlights.

If you want a modification on your bike I can offer a simple solution.

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ct1500
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Re: Blower Fuse Part Two ( Help )

Post by ct1500 » Sat Aug 05, 2017 6:58 am

I think some would be very interested in that and deserves a new thread on the subject.
This is what I do
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Erdeniz Umman
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Re: Blower Fuse Part Two ( Help )

Post by Erdeniz Umman » Sat Aug 05, 2017 7:06 am

ct1500 wrote:
Sat Aug 05, 2017 6:58 am
I think some would be very interested in that and deserves a new thread on the subject.
Actually, I had shared it in this forum before. But maybe it is a good idea to start a new thread on this subject.

Willie McMahon
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Re: Blower Fuse Part Two ( Help )

Post by Willie McMahon » Tue Aug 08, 2017 2:50 pm

ct1500 wrote:
Thu Aug 03, 2017 9:11 pm
Put it up on the center stand and simulate a moving bike (in gear side stand up wheel moving going through the gears) and see if the fuse will still blow. Since the dash indicators are involved different things are going on with wiring and switches on a moving as opposed to stationary scenario.
A big thank you to ct1500. We did all you suggested and found the fault was the back brake switch. Again thank you very much for you time and suggestions.
Willie ( Belfast )

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Erdeniz Umman
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Re: Blower Fuse Part Two ( Help )

Post by Erdeniz Umman » Tue Aug 08, 2017 3:14 pm

Willie McMahon wrote:
Tue Aug 08, 2017 2:50 pm
ct1500 wrote:
Thu Aug 03, 2017 9:11 pm
Put it up on the center stand and simulate a moving bike (in gear side stand up wheel moving going through the gears) and see if the fuse will still blow. Since the dash indicators are involved different things are going on with wiring and switches on a moving as opposed to stationary scenario.
A big thank you to ct1500. We did all you suggested and found the fault was the back brake switch. Again thank you very much for you time and suggestions.
Willie ( Belfast )
Note that, if the switch is the culprit that is because of the high current flow through the switch as I have mentioned before. So I recommend you change the brake light bulbs with the LED bulbs not to encounter this kind of problems.



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