Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting


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NOVAwing
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Location: Manassas, Va
Motorcycle: 1993 GL1500

Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by NOVAwing » Mon May 07, 2018 6:24 pm



So this is my thread for getting my new to me bike up and in running shape.

I will update this as I go.

Bike:
1993 Honda Goldwing GL1500A Aspencade
Blue
89900 miles
Stock except for wind wings.
I am 3rd owner

To do list:
Drain and refill fuel. Done
Replace battery with AGM. Done
Get startted. Done, runs poorly
Wash it.
Change oil.
Replace fuel filter.
Change spark plugs.
Change timing belt.
Change trans fluid.
Change main airfilter.
Check 2 secondary airfilters.
Replace brake/clutch levers with non bent chrome adjustable.
Leaking fuel down by the kick stand when running. Find and fix
Flush and bleed front left, and rear brakes.
Flush and bleed clutch.
Flush coolant.
Free all sticky switches.
Replace tires.
Get inspected.
Anything I missed?

Cosmetic repairs:
Coat all grey surfaces with some back to black treatment.
Fix front left, both rear non working speakers.
Replace left edge trim.
Repair cracked fairing left side below edge trim.
Replace cracked left headlight?.
Fix front lower cowl.
Replace all chrome crash bars.
Touch up paint.

Man that's a lot more then I was expecting....well that's what happens when you bike on a budget, you fix stuff as you go.



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Stew
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1986 Honda CR125R
1979 Yamaha GT80

Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by Stew » Mon May 07, 2018 10:21 pm

By trans fluid did you mean final drive oil? Engine and transmission oil are of course one in the same and it would be a good idea to at least check the final drive oil if not change it.

Other than that, that looks like most of the things I went through and checked when I got mine last October. I'm glad you decided to get the bike by the way. I know a lot of people advised you against getting it but I've always had a thing for the underdog so to speak, it's a failing of mine.

Edit: One other thing not on the list, flush and bleed right front brake.
Winging it every chance I get 8-)

19,119 miles when I got it from dad Oct 15, 2017 --- 21,792 miles and counting as of May 25, 2018!

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kane67
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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by kane67 » Mon May 07, 2018 11:22 pm

When replacing rear tire, check u-joint/lubricate driveshaft bores.

Excellent article by WingAdmin viewtopic.php?t=30309

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minimac
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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by minimac » Tue May 08, 2018 7:20 am

I've got nothing to add to the list. That should keep you busy for a little bit. Congrats on a great buy!

NOVAwing
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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by NOVAwing » Tue May 08, 2018 8:23 am

Thank you all.
I did not realize engine and trans share engine oil. Good to know.
I just had not looked it up yet lol.

Will add final drive fluid to list.

Seems I can not go back and edit my post now.....also can't close previous thread I made pre-purchase of the bike. You guys need better options on this board lol.

I expect the shop to lube my rear end (hahaha) when changing my rear tire in the coming weeks.

Thank you for the congrats, I am excited to get this baby on the road!
It does not seem as heavy as I was afraid it was.

Does anyone have any ideas on my fuel leak? Known issues to look for?

Leak is dripping constantly at the kick stand when running at idle.
Smoking, affraid it might start a fire.

I intend to have alook inside soon when I flush the clutch very soon which is now dragging so much it stalls the bike when put into gear lol. Luckily I had just enough pressure to get it out of the backyard it was rotting in.

I am praying I don't have to get the carbs rebuilt until later this year because it will blow my budget out of the water. Local Honda shop wants $700.

Also could NOT get this beast on the center stand for anything. Then I started playing with the air suspension. Guess what? It works, and seems to mostly hold pressure.

Pumped it up to 70 and the bike went right on the center stand with ease.

There is NO way to do that with the suspension down below 10psi lol.

Thinking I will go ahead and pull the front wheel myself and take it in for new tire to save some money. Rear tire seems good enough to at least drive the bike the 2 miles in 25 mph neighborhood to the shop to have it changed later. Front tire has severe cracks from rotting.

So any ideas on my fuel leak I should look at specifically?

DarthJ
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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by DarthJ » Tue May 08, 2018 12:28 pm

You mentioned just replacing one front speaker. You may as well replace them all and there are good threads on which speaker to use (Polk marine grade, I believe) Talk to the shop you are going to use for the rear tire, see what they'd charge to do both.
You ain't lost, you're just somewhere you ain't been before.

thompsoj22
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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by thompsoj22 » Tue May 08, 2018 12:34 pm

0-57 psi max on rear suspension max! center stand is a learning process, it is technique more than brute force. sounds like float needles are sticking in one or both carbs. ill catch flack for this method but it's mine. i dont really buy into the whole "sea foam" thing. drain the fuel tank completely, "bone dry"! buy two large cans of spray carb cleaner and invert the cans and hold the spray nozzle open to expend all propellant. when the cans have no pressure remaining poke two holes in the bottom of each can and pour them into the "bone dry fuel tank". now start the bike and keep it running until it gets good and warm and is running on carb cleaner. shut it off and let it sit overnight, fill it with fresh gas and see if that cures it. riding it will help as the vibration and shock of the road will help free the the needles. you just saved $700 bucks, yikes!

NOVAwing
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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by NOVAwing » Tue May 08, 2018 2:51 pm

DarthJ wrote:
Tue May 08, 2018 12:28 pm
You mentioned just replacing one front speaker. You may as well replace them all and there are good threads on which speaker to use (Polk marine grade, I believe) Talk to the shop you are going to use for the rear tire, see what they'd charge to do both.
Thank you.

Yes I meant I will replace them all. Thank you for the advice on correct speakers those are a must for outdoor environment.

Local Honda shop wants about $500 to do both tires, plus $50 to come get the non-drivable bike. I will be talking to them soon about the cost if I bring the wheels in myself. Front seems fairly simple, rear looks like a huge pita but I see it can also be done without stripping the luggage off so we will see.

Thanks again,
NOVAwing

NOVAwing
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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by NOVAwing » Tue May 08, 2018 2:56 pm

thompsoj22 wrote:
Tue May 08, 2018 12:34 pm
0-57 psi max on rear suspension max! center stand is a learning process, it is technique more than brute force. sounds like float needles are sticking in one or both carbs. ill catch flack for this method but it's mine. i dont really buy into the whole "sea foam" thing. drain the fuel tank completely, "bone dry"! buy two large cans of spray carb cleaner and invert the cans and hold the spray nozzle open to expend all propellant. when the cans have no pressure remaining poke two holes in the bottom of each can and pour them into the "bone dry fuel tank". now start the bike and keep it running until it gets good and warm and is running on carb cleaner. shut it off and let it sit overnight, fill it with fresh gas and see if that cures it. riding it will help as the vibration and shock of the road will help free the the needles. you just saved $700 bucks, yikes!
Thanks for the reply.

Hmmmm 57 psi max you say? Then why does the onboard pump go above 80 just fine and with no cap or any warnings not to? I have it at like 60 right now overnight to see how it holds.

There is no-way anyone short of a body builder is lifting the center stand on under 10psi, I about had a hernia and I am no small weakling, and watched all the vids on how to, and have had other bikes.

Your carb cleaner is an interesting idea.......good thing I only put 2 gallons + seafoam into the tank after sucking out almost 4 gallons of old gas lol.

Also, does this bike use regular car motor oil like Castrol 10w40? and how much?

Looks like I will be bleeding the brakes and clutch tomorrow, and wash her down for the first time in 4 years!

Fun times!

Thanks,

NOVAwing

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dingdong
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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by dingdong » Tue May 08, 2018 4:04 pm

The fuel leak by the sidestand could be the vacuum petcock. Look just front of the fuel cap. That is the petcock. If leaking, fuel will be running down the pan and out the overflow hose. Then it could also be the fuel bowls leaking from sitting so long. Or.......something!
There is a method to putting a bike on the centerstand. I am 73 weigh 175 and have no problem lifting my 93 on to the centertand.
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=9476

But I suppose you have seen this already. I will also suggest that you get a Honda service manual if you don't have one. Makes things so much easier. No more guessing. Good luck!
Tom

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bellboy40
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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by bellboy40 » Tue May 08, 2018 7:31 pm

Some bikes are harder to get on the center stand than others. I have a 94 1500SE that I can get on the stand easily. It is the easiest Goldwing I have ever had to get on the center stand. I also have a 2000 1500SE that is a bear to get on the stand. I usually just roll the rear wheel onto a 1x4 board and then it goes on the stand easily. Not sure why there is so much difference but that is the way it is.

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DenverWinger
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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by DenverWinger » Wed May 09, 2018 1:13 am

+1 on backing her up onto a 2x4 to use center stand. Not required but helps.

To get the rear wheel out you need to lift the bike some and remove the rear "fender" behind the wheel and the left saddle bag. That's not an option on mine, I installed a trailer hitch which blocks getting the wheel out from the back. Harbor Freight motorcycle lift gets her a full foot into the air and the back wheel comes out thru the left side.

Others have stated to simply lay her down on the right side for a 'Nap'. Then you can get the wheel out while laying on it's side. It won't hurt anything, but she might be a little smoky when you first start her back up...... probably a good way to do it if you are stuck on the road somewhere. This would probably be a good option for mine.

Even others describe how to remove certain bolts, and then lift the entire trunk-saddlebag assembly on remaining bolts "hinges" toward the handlebars to remove rear wheel. Again not an option on mine per trailer hitch and stereo wiring in right saddlebag. Also it is said to re-bolt this procedure it can be tricky.

1993 GL1500A Aspencade, Candy Spectra Red, owned 1 year, bought 43k MI, now 51K mi. Also 3rd owner. Pretty much Stock except PO added all the aftermarket "SE" lighting, a 300 watt stereo, 95 Amp alternator.
They say 98% of all Hardleys ever made are still on the road..... The other 2% made it home. :lol:
(I stole this from somebody on another GW site...) :roll:

NOVAwing
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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by NOVAwing » Wed May 09, 2018 10:55 am

Thanks for the advice Denver.

New issue, clutch master is full of crystals and gunk and out of fluid.

Wiped it out and blew out the 2 holes with brake cleaner and tried to flush some brake clean through the system. Pushed out a lot of junk.

Now it will not draw clean brake fluid, nothing pumping out...... Not sure what to do except push air or more brake clean through the holes?

Help please!

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Mh434
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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by Mh434 » Wed May 09, 2018 2:21 pm

Sounds like the holes are REALLY plugged, now! Don't try to push anything through from the top down - it's already clogged, and further attempts will just make it worse (imagine getting a marble jammed in the end of a garden hose - you do NOT want to push that marble in further!).

If you have access to a compressor, you could try putting air back through the system (you'll need to have the piston out of the master first) from the master's output port back into the master, in the hopes of dislodging the gunk & forcing it back out the way it went in.

NOVAwing
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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by NOVAwing » Wed May 09, 2018 6:24 pm

Longer day then I had planned but.....

That niffty $15 transfer pump from autozone that I used on the gas tank worked perfect when I crammed its oversize hose onto the fuel tubing I was using on the bleeder.

Put a nice nonstop vacum on the system so fast I got air in it twice before I kept it full and got the system closed.

Clutch has pressure now. Wheel still seems to turn when put into first but its on the center stand atm....

Also noticed it had no engine oil, it does now lol. Supertech 15w40 $12 at walmart, drank about 2/3rds of the gallon.

This weekend its bleed the brakes time, hopefully that will go better.

Still stuttering and leaking fuel even after checking and finding the nice K&N airfilter in good shape. Top of carbs looked good, sprayed a bottle of carb cleaner through it while running and let it soak some when off.

Still leaking fuel, looks like a $700 carb rebuild is in my future. Also a nasty exhaust leak somewhere mid bike.

With the tires this may put be back to July for finishing it due to limited funds and vacation coming.

Also went a bit over 1/2 temp so it probly needs coolant flushed and filled.

Washed her, looks alot better, but now I can see all the damage left side from being dropped.

The work continues, thanks for any advice.

NOVAwing

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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by NOVAwing » Fri May 11, 2018 11:05 am

Update:

Forgot to mention I notice some kind of electrical/motorized sound from the bike somewhere below drivers seat when turned off. Seems to cycle for a few seconds every few minutes then eventually stops. Have not timed it exactly or anything.

Is this normal, and what is it?

Also, does anyone have any ideas what may be leaking fuel? On center stand it leaks right under the front part of the bike, almost directly under carbs.

Most hoses I have seen seemed fine, so I'd be surprised if its a rotten hose but anything is possible. Can the carbs leak somehow? Its a fairly constant drip at idle.

I plan to tear it down to the carb maybe this weekend or next, to see what I can see. Would be nice to only need a hose, and not a carb rebuild. Runs and idles but rough and stutters. All on stand/in neutral.

If I tear it down to the carbs, but don't remove them, can I see/work on much of that area to at least isolate the leak?

Thanks for any advice!

NOVAwing

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DenverWinger
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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by DenverWinger » Sat May 12, 2018 9:13 am

You're going to want to tear it down enough to check the air filter to make sure it's not full of mice. Several threads on the site showing pictures of where the air box had turned into a home for "Wayward Mices", especially after four years. At that point it isn't much more effort to remove the air box to get to the carburetors so you might see the source of the leak.

Of course, at this point in my reply I read back and saw in previous post you'd already inspected K&N filter... :lol: Air draw thru the K&N is different than OEM filter and some have said it can affect idle and running mixture, but I find it more likely to be carb issues. So I'd be going back in there anyway. Also gives a better view of more hoses. There's a couple hoses with tight bends that are notorious for developing leaks when all other hoses are good, causing a bad idle. Surging, though, usually.

Change the Cruise and Sub air filters while in there, too, you'll be taking off a little more plastic to get to them, but they have likely crumbled and turned to dust anyway by now, but you'll be getting a better view of your carbs. You might find a leaky hose, or some accessible screws you can tighten on the carbs or something else simple.

Regarding the rough idle, if you manage to get the fuel leak solved without carb rebuild, I'f the idle isn't so bad that she's not driveable, at this point I'd just drive her with a heavy dose (1/2 can per tank) of SeaFoam in the fuel. She might straighten out after a few tanks. If not, then a rebuild is likely in order anyway.

1/2 scale on the temp gauge is normal, the fans should start cycling on/off somewhere between 1/2-3/4 scale. My '93 Aspy often shows 3/4 scale on a hot day in stop-go traffic... long as the fans kick on she won't overheat. Don't worry unless the temp gauge starts heading toward the peg.

Not sure what your "Electrical / Motorized" noise might be, likely something else, nothing should be energized with the key OFF except the radio memory and clock. You might be hearing pressure/vacuum in the fuel tank equalizing.
They say 98% of all Hardleys ever made are still on the road..... The other 2% made it home. :lol:
(I stole this from somebody on another GW site...) :roll:

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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by NOVAwing » Sat May 12, 2018 7:48 pm

DenverWinger wrote:
Sat May 12, 2018 9:13 am
You're going to want to tear it down enough to check the air filter to make sure it's not full of mice. Several threads on the site showing pictures of where the air box had turned into a home for "Wayward Mices", especially after four years. At that point it isn't much more effort to remove the air box to get to the carburetors so you might see the source of the leak.

Of course, at this point in my reply I read back and saw in previous post you'd already inspected K&N filter... :lol: Air draw thru the K&N is different than OEM filter and some have said it can affect idle and running mixture, but I find it more likely to be carb issues. So I'd be going back in there anyway. Also gives a better view of more hoses. There's a couple hoses with tight bends that are notorious for developing leaks when all other hoses are good, causing a bad idle. Surging, though, usually.

Change the Cruise and Sub air filters while in there, too, you'll be taking off a little more plastic to get to them, but they have likely crumbled and turned to dust anyway by now, but you'll be getting a better view of your carbs. You might find a leaky hose, or some accessible screws you can tighten on the carbs or something else simple.

Regarding the rough idle, if you manage to get the fuel leak solved without carb rebuild, I'f the idle isn't so bad that she's not driveable, at this point I'd just drive her with a heavy dose (1/2 can per tank) of SeaFoam in the fuel. She might straighten out after a few tanks. If not, then a rebuild is likely in order anyway.

1/2 scale on the temp gauge is normal, the fans should start cycling on/off somewhere between 1/2-3/4 scale. My '93 Aspy often shows 3/4 scale on a hot day in stop-go traffic... long as the fans kick on she won't overheat. Don't worry unless the temp gauge starts heading toward the peg.

Not sure what your "Electrical / Motorized" noise might be, likely something else, nothing should be energized with the key OFF except the radio memory and clock. You might be hearing pressure/vacuum in the fuel tank equalizing.
Thank you for the great feedback.

Yep no mice, but lots and lots of mud-dobber bee hives everywhere. Under seat, behind panels, inside saddle bags, in steering neck, inside front fairing air vents.

Like pulling half a bucket of dirt out of the bike so far lol. They were all old and dead nests but like big dirt clumps stuck everywhere.

Yes I will tear it down to the carbs soon to hopefully find a faulty fuel hose or something else minor and not an overflowing carb issue of some kind. Thanks for the encouragement. I need to avoid the $700 carb rebuild from the shop like the plague lol. Budget budget budget.

It does idle fine, takes a bit to start though requies half to 3/4 choke. When I free rev it, it stutters, then slow revs to like 4kish then gets faster/smoother. Feels very sluggish and rough.

As long as I stop the fuel leak, I plan to drive her around a bit with more seafoam and see how it goes. The fuel leak repair should fix the poor running issue I would hope. If I can find it heh.

Thanks for the temp gauge info, thats helpful for sure.
I still have flush and replace coolant on my list but would like to delay temporarily like 1, 2 months, any maintenance I can.

Yea I will order the cruise and sub filters.

I got a kit from cyclemax with oil filter+wrench, main air, fuel, filters and spark plugs. Still have to put all that on. Will clean and save the K&N for next time maybe.

Went out today to partially disasemble front brake area and left saddlebag to investigate bleeding foot brake system (did not do bleed work just went partway then reassembled) and found my brand new agm battery totally stone dead.

Did I leave the radio switch on lastnight? Does that matter? I've had a battery in it for like a week starting it for about 15mins each night after coming home from work. It was totally dead today, no preignition lights, nothing. Jumped it with my truck to realize battery was dead. Pulled battery and I am charging it in the house with battery charger on 2amp.

Yea bout that weird whatever it is cycling after bike is off, its deffinetly an electromechanical wizzing/whurring sound. Did'nt hear it today, but maybe thats what ate the battery overnight....

The work continues.

Thanks,
NOVAwing

DarthJ
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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by DarthJ » Sun May 13, 2018 12:16 am

as long as you don't leave the ignition switch on, you can leave the radio switch on, I do all the time. Tells me there's a vampire current somewhere drawing power 24/7. Id use a circuit tester anywhere that I can think of to find where the power is going.A Battery Tender pigtail is a good investment
You ain't lost, you're just somewhere you ain't been before.

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RockportDave
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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by RockportDave » Sun May 13, 2018 8:24 pm

Congrats on the bike. I enjoy working on them almost as much as riding.
After the battery is charged, connect the positive side and place a test light between the negative post of the battery and the negative battery wire. If the light is on with the bike off, start removing fuses and replacing them until you find the one (or ones) that turn the test light off. That will be the circuit that is draining the battery. This will help narrow the search to specific circuits.
If it comes down to needing carb overhaul, there is a great article by Jim Martino with step by step instructions on carb removal, overhaul and installation. www.jmartino.me
And if you decide to pull the carbs, be sure to inspect all the vacuum lines below the intakes. On left side of engine is one with orange tape that is notorious for getting a hole.
Dave
1999 GL1500SE 5th Goldwing through the years

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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by NOVAwing » Thu May 17, 2018 9:54 am

RockportDave wrote:
Sun May 13, 2018 8:24 pm
Congrats on the bike. I enjoy working on them almost as much as riding.
After the battery is charged, connect the positive side and place a test light between the negative post of the battery and the negative battery wire. If the light is on with the bike off, start removing fuses and replacing them until you find the one (or ones) that turn the test light off. That will be the circuit that is draining the battery. This will help narrow the search to specific circuits.
If it comes down to needing carb overhaul, there is a great article by Jim Martino with step by step instructions on carb removal, overhaul and installation. www.jmartino.me
And if you decide to pull the carbs, be sure to inspect all the vacuum lines below the intakes. On left side of engine is one with orange tape that is notorious for getting a hole.
Dave
Thank you, I am looking forward to getting her on the road.

Just received my new front tire, and brake lever via the mail!

Now if it would just stop raining (Everyday all week till Sunday maybe) and the sickness I woke up with today would go away by tomorrow that would be great heh.

Thanks for the good advice/info. I plan to do all these things.

That walk through is very nice indeed, but I hope I don't have to use it lol.

Thanks,
NOVAwing

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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by NOVAwing » Thu May 17, 2018 9:57 am

New question.

About to order this new OEM type clutch lever, specifically from
https://www.jpcycles.com/product/zz5107 ... utch-lever

Will it have that new brass bushing in it I read about that probably needs to be replaced, or do I need to buy that too?

Thanks,

NOVAwing

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saywen63
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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by saywen63 » Fri May 18, 2018 10:30 am

Thought of one more thing to add your list of things to do , might want to drain your front forks and change the oil ! good luck :-)

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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by Rednaxs60 » Fri May 18, 2018 1:02 pm

You mention that the clutch MC was full of crud. This will also be the same in the clutch slave, rebuild is recommended.

Another good product to clean out the fuel system besides Sea Foam is Yamalube Ring Free:


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Re: Getting a 93 Aspencade running after 4 years sitting

Post by ct1500 » Fri May 18, 2018 3:57 pm

NOVAwing wrote:
Thu May 17, 2018 9:57 am
New question.
About to order this new OEM type clutch lever, specifically from
https://www.jpcycles.com/product/zz5107 ... utch-lever
Will it have that new brass bushing in it I read about that probably needs to be replaced, or do I need to buy that too?
Thanks,
NOVAwing
Likely not, it is part #3.

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