Machine won't run well, even after professional carb cleaning


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ct1500
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Re: Machine won't run well, even after professional carb cleaning

Post by ct1500 » Mon May 28, 2018 7:42 am



jomosley wrote:
Mon May 28, 2018 6:47 am
How do I test the pump, petcock, and filter to see which ones is responsible?
Fuel filter is easy to quick test, put your lips to it and if you can blow through it is not clogged. Take the hose that goes to filter from fuel tank and crank engine over, gas should flow. If OK reattach hoses and remove fuel hose from petcock that goes to carbs. Attach a suitable fitting hose to port on petcock and crank engine over fuel should flow out of there.


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Re: Machine won't run well, even after professional carb cleaning

Post by jomosley » Mon May 28, 2018 1:09 pm

Now, discovered the fuel line was broke on the pump, savaged it/getting a new one tomorrow fuel line. But, the petcock is now spewing everywhere! I reckon the diaphragm gave out, one problem after the next with this one. Suggestions on that repair?
The accelerator pump is working now, gas comes out when I turn the throttle and when the bike primes before gas spews our the petcock!

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terryt
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Re: Machine won't run well, even after professional carb cleaning

Post by terryt » Mon May 28, 2018 1:55 pm

Have you checked the hose to the petcock is not split or the hose clips are not loose. Or you can bypass it or get a new diaphragm kit.

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Re: Machine won't run well, even after professional carb cleaning

Post by jomosley » Mon May 28, 2018 1:59 pm

Will it run if I bypass the petcock? Because, the gas is coming out of he petcock itself, not the hoses, I checke the hoses coming and going from the petcock, nothing comes out of them.

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terryt
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Re: Machine won't run well, even after professional carb cleaning

Post by terryt » Mon May 28, 2018 2:52 pm

jomosley wrote:
Mon May 28, 2018 1:59 pm
Will it run if I bypass the petcock? Because, the gas is coming out of he petcock itself, not the hoses, I checke the hoses coming and going from the petcock, nothing comes out of them.
Yes it will. but dont keep turning the ignition on and of without starting it at the fuel pump will pressurize and may flood the carbs.

I would still get the petcock sorted out and reconnected

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Re: Machine won't run well, even after professional carb cleaning

Post by wingdings » Mon May 28, 2018 4:47 pm

when you turn the key to full on do you hear the fuel pump cycle ??? on the early year wings the fuel pump could be clearly heard when the ignition key was turned onto full !! - if you cannot hear that - first stop is a fuse or a relay problem !! - if you check out my posts on here - and the how to' ariticles you should be able to trace the problem :D :D :D

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Re: Machine won't run well, even after professional carb cleaning

Post by jomosley » Mon May 28, 2018 5:20 pm

Hello:
The fuel pump works, I hear it, I see it spitting gas out,and out my petcock. The petcock is what’s bad now, I am either going to order a rebuild kit or an electric petcock, I saw some discussion on the electric. The fuel line from the pump is cracked, I need a new line (going to order one of those too). The line I used was the old one from the old fuel pump I had on it, I replaced the fuel pump with one that was suggested in the forum on fuel pumps. So, the pump works. Just the petcock diaphragm gave out, I am presuming.
Thanks for the suggestion.

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Re: Machine won't run well, even after professional carb cleaning

Post by wingdings » Mon May 28, 2018 6:19 pm

HERE - is the how to I did on pectcock replacement - viewtopic.php?f=14&t=36257 this should help you decide whats wrong fella ... :P :P :P :P :P :P

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Re: Machine won't run well, even after professional carb cleaning

Post by WingAdmin » Wed May 30, 2018 9:52 am

Rebuilding the petcock is a simple, 15-minute job. A rebuild kit can be had for under $20: http://cyclemax.com/inc/sdetail/gl1500_ ... _kit/20457




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Re: Machine won't run well, even after professional carb cleaning

Post by jomosley » Wed May 30, 2018 10:27 am

Hey all:
I fixed the fuel line and fixed the petcock, 12 dollars totaled. Took more time putting plastics off and back off than anything else! I guess I lucked out on this one

Wait to see if it fires up when I get off, planning on a long ride this Saturday, have a 1hr ride today, if she fires up and acts right.

I will continue to update everyone! Thanks for the support!

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Re: Machine won't run well, even after professional carb cleaning

Post by wingdings » Wed May 30, 2018 12:46 pm

hi - there - quick one for you there !! - have you changed out your fuel filter ?? and your air filter too ?? is the tank rusty at all ?? - if not please do !! - paste this link into your web browser - then read on !! - https://www.randakks.com/high-performan ... utlet.html

A new fuel filter is strongly recommended as a necessary part of any carb overhaul. Thereafter, it is generally recommended as a best practice that fuel filters be changed annually.

No filter (not even this one) will remove rust particles suspended in fuel from a rusty fuel tank. If your tank is rusty, that problem must be addressed!

Fuel filters are not included in Randakk's Master Carb Kits but prudent measures should be taken to ensure a pure fuel supply! The OEM Honda filter is always a good choice as a high quality replacement unit. More on aftermarket fuel filters on our Blog.
Now offered: Randakk's High Performance Fuel Filter with sizes to fit virtually any carbureted motorcycle.
Randakk's High Performance Fuel Filter is a good option for GoldWing and other Vintage Honda owners...even Harley's! It is a high performance filter that exceeds the performance of the OEM Honda filters and ordinary aftermarket filters. It is also less expensive than the OEM Honda filter.
Available in 3 sizes to fit virtually any carbureted motorcycle.


Randakk's High Performance Fuel Filter
Available in 3 Sizes to Fit Virtually any Carbureted Motorcycle


This Filter is Exclusive to Randakk's Cycle Shakk. Includes Rubber Sizing Band to Mate with OEM Honda Bracket
Features a Removable Sintered Bronze Element with Viton Seal

Features:
Long-life filter that lasts indefinitely
Aluminum case that can be "opened" without tools for cleaning / inspection
Removable, sintered bronze filter media rated at 40 microns
No internal adhesives to dissolve and fail
Randakk exclusive VITON internal seal
Compatible and impervious to any motor fuel fuel including gasoline, ethanol, methanol, nitro methane blends
Includes a rubber sizing sleeve to make it compatible with the typical OEM Honda filter clamp. No modifications to clamp or mounting hardware is necessary.
Intended for use on carbureted vehicles with mechanical or electric fuel pumps or simple gravity feed.
High-flow design. Rated for engines up to approximately 150 horsepower.
This is a superior product manufactured to a very high standard and a significant functional upgrade for any motorcycle.
These filters are exclusively sourced and manufactured for Randakk's Cycle Shakk. You may find somewhat similar-looking filters elsewhere, but no others have the Viton internal seal and the sizing sleeve to mate to OEM Honda filter brackets.
Available in 3 sizes to support virtually all carbureted motorcycles (another Randakk's Cycle Shakk exclusive)
Installation / Notes:

No filter (not even this one) will remove rust particles suspended in fuel from a rusty fuel tank. If your tank is rusty, that problem must be addressed!
The internal VITON seal may have a flat side and a side with ??lips.? The orientation of the seal does not matter. It works equally well in either orientation.
Open the filter. Inspect the housing and filter element for any left-over manufacturing debris, etc.
Lubricate the side of the Viton seal that faces the filter element with a VERY LIGHT SMEAR of Vaseline.
Lubricate the filter housing threads with a VERY LIGHT SMEAR of Vaseline.
Reassemble the filter housing snug....HAND TIGHT only using the sizing sleeve for a good grip. Don??t use pliers or other leverage!
The filter is approximately 7/8" shorter in overall length compared to the OEM Honda filter. On many bikes, one or both of the fuel hose sections which attach to the filter will need to be slightly longer than the stock spec. Randakk's recommends adding most of the additional required fuel hose length to the petcock side of the filter on early 'Wings.
The filter is non-directional. It flows equally in either orientation. For ease of maintenance, it is generally a ??best practice? to orient the filter so that the internal seal and knurled end of the filter is on the the petcock side when mounted.
For early 'Wings and similar models, the OEM filter bracket mounts over the rubber sizing sleeve that surrounds the filter.
My practice when servicing the filter is to leave the petcock side hose attached to the knurled end of the filter body as shown below. This way, the carb side hose and the filter half secured by the OEM bracket can be left on the bike undisturbed.
Thread seepage should never be a problem if the instructions above are followed. If seepage persists, the housing threads can be "sealed" with a VERY SMALL amount of Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket sealant. This special sealant is the best available for sealing gasoline and still permits later disassembly.
Fuel Filters should always be mounted at least 3-4 inches from any hot component (such as exhaust manifolds) that might cause the gasoline inside the filter to exceed 175 degrees Fahrenheit.
Note: Packaging / labeling may vary from the examples shown.



Cleaning Notes:
If the filter element needs cleaning, wash in hot water with ordinary detergent, rinse thoroughly then dry completely with compressed air.
If the filter is becomes clogged with varnish or fuel residues - clean first with with a suitable aerosol carb cleaner, then clean with hot soapy water, followed by compressed air.




Randakk's Disclaimers

To read more reviews on this and other products visit our Review Site, http://www.randakksreviews.com


hope this helps !!! :D :D :D

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Re: Machine won't run well, even after professional carb cleaning

Post by WingAdmin » Wed May 30, 2018 3:37 pm

I've had this filter in my GL1500 now for four years. Read more about it here: Randakk's High-Performance Fuel Filter

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wingdings
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Re: Machine won't run well, even after professional carb cleaning

Post by wingdings » Thu May 31, 2018 3:37 am

Hi - there wing admin - !!- :D -So you have had the Randakk's High-Performance Fuel Filter for 4yrs - how are you finding it then is it any better to both use and maintain then ?? :?: :?: :?: :?:

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Re: Machine won't run well, even after professional carb cleaning

Post by WingAdmin » Thu May 31, 2018 8:32 am

wingdings wrote:
Thu May 31, 2018 3:37 am
Hi - there wing admin - !!- :D -So you have had the Randakk's High-Performance Fuel Filter for 4yrs - how are you finding it then is it any better to both use and maintain then ?? :?: :?: :?: :?:
I haven't had it off to clean yet this year. I did two years ago, and I was a bit alarmed, because it looked perfectly clean, as if it was brand new. I thought; "if it looks clean, then what kind of crap has it let through to my carbs?"

But then I washed it with soap and water, as the instructions say to do - and a TON of filthy stuff came out of it, so it obviously works very well.

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Re: Machine won't run well, even after professional carb cleaning

Post by wingdings » Thu May 31, 2018 8:45 am

I defo have to have one of those then - Wing admin and thanks for the info there too !! :D :D :D :D :D

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Re: Machine won't run well, even after professional carb cleaning

Post by jomosley » Tue Jun 12, 2018 9:53 am

The culprit was the fuel line needing to be replaced. Ran 600 miles in the past few weeks.
Now, my clutch is leaking fluid, the master cyclinder is empty after a couple of hundred miles and needs to be bled and fluid replaced.
I checked around the MC, and around the bleeder valve for leaks, but nothing. I think it’s in the line. I don’t see a puddle of fluid under the bike, showing signs of a leak. So it would be a cracked or busted line-yes?

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Re: Machine won't run well, even after professional carb cleaning

Post by WingAdmin » Tue Jun 12, 2018 12:35 pm

jomosley wrote:
Tue Jun 12, 2018 9:53 am
The culprit was the fuel line needing to be replaced. Ran 600 miles in the past few weeks.
Now, my clutch is leaking fluid, the master cyclinder is empty after a couple of hundred miles and needs to be bled and fluid replaced.
I checked around the MC, and around the bleeder valve for leaks, but nothing. I think it’s in the line. I don’t see a puddle of fluid under the bike, showing signs of a leak. So it would be a cracked or busted line-yes?
Stop, do not start your bike again. Change the oil immediately, and in fact I would change the oil with a cheap throwaway oil, run the engine until it's warm, then change it again with a good oil.

If clutch fluid is disappearing, and there is no obvious leak, then there is a good chance that it is leaking into the engine crankcase from your clutch slave cylinder. Hydraulic fluid in the engine crankcase can DESTROY your main crank bearings, and turn your engine to scrap.

You likely need to rebuild your clutch slave cylinder, as this is usually the cause of this.



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