Easier way to remove GL1500 Rear tyre


Information and questions on GL1500 Goldwings (1988-2000)
  • Sponsored Links
bandit
Posts: 18
Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2011 1:49 am
Location: South Africa
Motorcycle: 2008 BMW RT1200
2008 Honda GL1800
1988 Honda GL 1500

Easier way to remove GL1500 Rear tyre

Postby bandit » Wed Feb 02, 2011 12:45 am



Is there an easier way to remove the rear tyre instead of stripping the whole rear section just to get the wheel off ?



wpgfire
Posts: 22
Joined: Fri Aug 07, 2009 3:59 pm
Location: Winnipeg, MB
Motorcycle: 1997 GL1500SE
2001 Valk Interstate

Re: Easier way to remove GL1500 Rear tyre

Postby wpgfire » Wed Feb 02, 2011 11:50 am

I found this over on Wingnuts. I thought I saw it with pics,too, but can't seem to find it now.


Here's the EASY way to get the rear wheel off of a 1500. It takes about 10 minutes (15 if you're not a mechanic). And you can do it on the side of the road if you need to. You don't have to remove trunks or lights. No electrical connectors to take loose. You can even leave your hitch on!


1. Put the bike on the center stand. You don't need any jacks or blocks. Empty the trunks if you've got much weight in them.
2. Remove the seat (two allen-head bolts on each side in the handles).
3. Remove the shields at the fronts of the mufflers (two bolts on each side).
4. Loosen (do not remove) the exhaust pipe/muffler clamps (total of four bolts, two at the front of each muffler).
5. Remove the muffler bolts under the trunks (one each side), and rotate the mufflers down.
6. Support the rear assembly with a jack or block (taking precautions to protect the rear body work). Open the side trunks. On the inside wall of each trunk, near the front, is a rubber plug (on the SE/Aspencade, the air hose passes through this plug in the right trunk). Remove the plugs and REMOVE the bolt behind each plug (one each side).
7. Where the seat was, near the back, and just behind the shock mounts, are two bolts, one on each side of the frame, holding the rear frame to the main frame. Loosen (do not remove) these two bolts.
8. Step around to the back of the bike, take hold of the trunks underneath, and lift. The whole rear end (trunks, lights, hitch and all) will lift up and pivot on the two upper frame bolts, exposing the rear wheel and axle! Raise it up until the antennas touch the handlebars, and secure it in place. I looped a rope around the handlebars and tied it to the trunk rack to hold it up.
9. Loosen the bottom left shock bolt. Pull the axle and the brake caliper (lay the caliper on the crash bar). Slide the wheel left and it's out!
The reason for the change in step 6 above is that when you lower the rear end back into position for reassembly, the two lower bolts will prevent you from putting it back down if they are not completely removed.

10. Reassembly is in reverse order of assembly. YOU MAY NEED A SECOND PERSON to help you lower the trunk pack back into position. This is because it may be necessary to pull out on the fronts of the side trunks while lowering them, so they will pass over the top mounts of the rear crash bars.
11. With support under the back end of the trunk pack, use a small mirror to look through the access holes in the side trunks. Line up the bolt holes in the rear crash bars with the holes in the frame. Start the bolts, then lower the trunk pack into position and tighten the bolts.
The whole rear assembly is held on by the two top bolts, the bolts at the tops of the rear crash bars (the ones behind the rubber plugs) and the muffler bolts.
The frame pieces behind the trunks do not have holes for the bolts, just slots. When you reassemble the trunk pack to the frame, you can support the back of the trunk pack so the slots are just above the bolts. Start the bolts through the crash bars into the frame, then when you lower the pack into position, the slots will engage the bolts. Then you can tighten them down.
If you're on the side of the road, you can lower the rear assembly back down, put the seat back on, and lock your parts in the trunk while you get your tire repaired. This gives you access to the swing arm and shocks, too. You can service the whole rear end, replace shocks, etc., without disassembling the trunks.

User avatar
tek8550
Posts: 7
Joined: Thu Jun 24, 2010 10:00 pm
Location: Poplar Bluff, Mo.
Motorcycle: 1988 GL1500

Re: Easier way to remove GL1500 Rear tyre

Postby tek8550 » Thu Feb 03, 2011 6:10 am

I have used this method that "wpgfire" suggested and it worked very well for me.

Grumpy1
Posts: 16
Joined: Sat Aug 07, 2010 5:20 am
Location: Brisbane Queensland, Australia
Motorcycle: 1999 1500 Aspencade
1990 1500SE (Dead)
1988 GL1500 (Dead)

Re: Easier way to remove GL1500 Rear tyre

Postby Grumpy1 » Thu Feb 03, 2011 7:02 am

;) Going to have to try that as it took 3hr last time :D Ta from the Grumpy1

User avatar
djoyner
Posts: 43
Joined: Fri Nov 20, 2009 12:10 pm
Location: Chesterfield County, Virginia
Motorcycle: 1978 GL1000
1985 GL1200 Interstate
1995 GL1500 Interstate
2006 VTX 1300S
Contact:

Re: Easier way to remove GL1500 Rear tyre

Postby djoyner » Thu Feb 03, 2011 7:04 am

I just removed my rear tire for the first time a few days ago.

It took all of 30 minutes to remove the lower trunk trim, the seat and both saddelbags.

I chose to remove the above items rather than flip the entire rear end up since the latter method may require a second person.
D J
2006 VTX 1300S
1978 GL1000
1985 GL1200 Interstate
1995 GL1500 Interstate

Visit me at:[url http://www.dennisjoyner.net][/url]

wpgfire
Posts: 22
Joined: Fri Aug 07, 2009 3:59 pm
Location: Winnipeg, MB
Motorcycle: 1997 GL1500SE
2001 Valk Interstate

Re: Easier way to remove GL1500 Rear tyre

Postby wpgfire » Thu Feb 03, 2011 11:50 am

Well there you go, I was looking in the wrong place. :shock: It was under my nose the whole time. :ugeek: The correct procedure, with the recommended tools to use (too bad there's no pics), is right here on this site in the 1500 DIY Articles. :o

viewtopic.php?f=14&t=4626

I believe I have seen it done with pics on one of the Wing sites. I'll keep my eyes open.

Once you've done it the conventional way I think I'd keep doing it that way. The first time is always the worst. After that you feel like you could do it in less than 1/2 the time, and usually can.

Grumpy1
Posts: 16
Joined: Sat Aug 07, 2010 5:20 am
Location: Brisbane Queensland, Australia
Motorcycle: 1999 1500 Aspencade
1990 1500SE (Dead)
1988 GL1500 (Dead)

Re: Easier way to remove GL1500 Rear tyre

Postby Grumpy1 » Fri Feb 18, 2011 5:37 am

Certainly makes it easer to get to rear brakes and tyre but i found it easer to drops the bolts from the light bar(After Market) and tow hitch and remove the rear crash bar's as this stop the under sides of the rear trunk pack from hitting and jamming , this added about 10 minites to the job
Thank's from the Grumpy1 :evil: (Not so Grumpy) :D

User avatar
cbx4evr
Posts: 1397
Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2010 8:35 pm
Location: Edmonton, AB Canada
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500SE
2004 Kawasaki KLR 650
Solex 5000
1980 Honda CBX - sold :-(
1981 Honda CBX - sold :-(
Contact:

Re: Easier way to remove GL1500 Rear tyre

Postby cbx4evr » Fri Feb 18, 2011 1:04 pm

I found the easiest way to remove the rear wheel was to take it to the dealership. The price wasn't worth me busting my knuckles.
"It´s a friggen motorcycle, it´s not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you s**t your pants every now and then. "

wpgfire
Posts: 22
Joined: Fri Aug 07, 2009 3:59 pm
Location: Winnipeg, MB
Motorcycle: 1997 GL1500SE
2001 Valk Interstate

Re: Easier way to remove GL1500 Rear tyre

Postby wpgfire » Fri Feb 18, 2011 4:54 pm

If Edmonton has a DEALership, you're very lucky. Most only have STEALerships. Too many stories abound of shops that say they do things but don't. Were the splines lubed when they put it back together? Lot of miles between changes to be wondering if it was done right. At the $120 an hour shop time they're charging here I'd rather shed a drop of blood and know it was done the way it was suppose to be.
Got a set of Illustrated Powersports DVDs for the 1500 last Christmas. Walked me through the following procedures step by step:
Front and rear wheel removal (got the tires changed by a custom guy down the street for $25 a piece)
Rear drive fluid replacement
Reverse cable adjustment
Front & Rear brake pad replacement
All filters replaced (oil, fuel, air, sub, cruise, air pump element)
cruise control adjustment
Superbrace install
timing belts
antifreeze flush and replace

Also added Stebel air horn and receiver hitch.

Savings on labor alone paid for a 2 week vacation to the West Coast with my wife. That and the peace of mind that it had been done right and knowing my bike that much better - PRICELESS.

But that's just me.

User avatar
cbx4evr
Posts: 1397
Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2010 8:35 pm
Location: Edmonton, AB Canada
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500SE
2004 Kawasaki KLR 650
Solex 5000
1980 Honda CBX - sold :-(
1981 Honda CBX - sold :-(
Contact:

Re: Easier way to remove GL1500 Rear tyre

Postby cbx4evr » Fri Feb 18, 2011 9:45 pm

wpgfire wrote:If Edmonton has a DEALership, you're very lucky. Most only have STEALerships. Too many stories abound of shops that say they do things but don't. Were the splines lubed when they put it back together?



For $70 I had a rear tire installed, the splines greased properly, the brakes and bearings checked and they let me watch them do it.

I do all of my own work but for $70 this didn't make any sense to do myself. Had to drive there to get the tire anyway.

I found this particular dealership to be very fair with the price of the tire and the labor.

Subsequent pricing on some parts like timing belts hasn't given me the same joy but they are all charging the same.
"It´s a friggen motorcycle, it´s not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you s**t your pants every now and then. "

leedavis
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun May 05, 2013 2:16 pm
Location: Livonia, mi
Motorcycle: 1985 gl1200a
1993 gl1500se

Re: Easier way to remove GL1500 Rear tyre

Postby leedavis » Sun May 05, 2013 2:34 pm

As an added note, if you don't want to disturb the mufflers (or can't remove the bolts), simply remove the left shock (remove top and bottom bolts, lifts right out) and drain the pressure from the right shock. Now the wheel can be lifted into the frame (compressing the suspension). Once the wheel is high enough, the axle clears the mufflers. I hang the bike from a chain fall, but a bike lift or pieces of wood would work just fine for lifting the wheel.

Jim Caudill
Posts: 2
Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 10:35 pm
Location: Dayton, OH
Motorcycle: 1988 GL1500

Re: Easier way to remove GL1500 Rear tyre

Postby Jim Caudill » Tue Sep 03, 2013 8:51 am

I saw the writeup and watched a couple of Youtube videos showing the "tilit up" method where all 3 bags just pivot up and out of the way. My 1988 must be very different! It was a real PITA as the bags mounting tabs have straight slots and to have this work properly, they would need to be on a radius. Coming up, I heard a loud pop that made me think I broke something, and when going back together I had to loosen all sorts of bag attachments to get the slop necessary to get the bags back into their attachments. It has been almost a year since I did it, but I remember very well all the aggravation I had trying to get the bags back down. IIRC, you really need to get the bags down AND back (rearward) and then try and get them to slide forward. I was replacing my '88 wheel with a later model and needed to do some modifications to make that work out. I also wanted to do some other servicing, so it seemed best for me to go ahead and do the work.

For a simple rear tire replacement, I definitely look hard and letting a shop do it.

User avatar
CaptainDave
Posts: 23
Joined: Sun Sep 01, 2013 11:34 pm
Location: lake arrowhead, California
Motorcycle: 1997 1500SE Goldwing
Contact:

Re: Easier way to remove GL1500 Rear tyre

Postby CaptainDave » Sun Feb 02, 2014 12:20 am

we researched 3 methods and desided to do it this way - and it was just fine ... easy to do mostly ... and great way to replace the rear tire - thanks buddy !!
TIPS: 1- you might have to make the large holes in the front of the side bags larger/bigger to get old fat fingers inside -then use black duct-tape to ad and make the old plugs go in and keep water out - it is hard to align these TWO bolt because there are 3 frame-type peices to get into alignment and this is difficut - but we used an allen wrench to move all 3 into place- and this seemed to work to align them - and a flashlight looking from the TOP seat area looking down helps put these 2 bolts in each side in bag .................... 2- be sure to support the bike - we did it with straps from garage beam - it could fall over easy if you don't do something to keep it steady ................. 3- I replaced the 3 O-rings (which wasn't mentioned) about $3.50 each /dont' get ripped-off ..... 4- losen the filler cap on top of the left hand side of the hub assembly so it is lose in case you have to fill the hub in the future + check fluid levels ..... 5- greasing in vital ........... 6- check the STEM and be sure the tire shop balances the tires PROPERLY (my shop didn't!) ................. 7- check brake pads ............ 8- don't touch brake levers once assembly is off disk ! duct-tape them so no one can move them ............ 9- check the balancing weights to be sure they are secure (one of mine had to be secured or it would have fallen off !) ............. 10- have a FRIEND HELP YOU ....... 11- use PVC pipe glue to repair cracks in fiberglass bags etc... works amazingly well ! ............... 12- TEST RIDE THE BIKE before going down the road ! + triple check everything need more info pls10 at hotmail Captain D - retired
- ps - I have found air stem filler caps that show GREEN = 36 lbs YELLOW = below 29 ... RED = below 25 and they are CHEAP (less than $5) - will report if they work well - just put them on - QICK-SAFE-EASY way TO SEE IF TIRE PRESURE IS SAFE TO RIDE
nice to meet you ... all the best ...

- come ride with us up in the beautiful San Bernardino Mountains in sunny southern Calif

Captain D - retired
Lake Arrowhead, CA
Goldwing 1500SE rider

User avatar
RBGERSON
Posts: 2625
Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2010 7:57 am
Location: SCOTTSDALE, AZ
Motorcycle: 98 SE GL 1500
had every year from 75 to 83

Re: Easier way to remove GL1500 Rear tyre

Postby RBGERSON » Sun Feb 02, 2014 8:25 am

I did the lift method it all worked easily until I tried to lower the bags..then a lot of jiggling, pushing, shoving and cussing before they "FELL" back into place.
HAD LOTS OF GOLDWING 75-83
NOW INTO 1500'S..RIDING A 1998 SE

FAIR WINDS,
RB

User avatar
zamboni920
Posts: 250
Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2011 5:15 am
Location: Stavanger, Norway
Motorcycle: 1996 GL1500 SE with Hannigan 2+2 sidecar

Re: Easier way to remove GL1500 Rear tyre

Postby zamboni920 » Sun Feb 02, 2014 9:00 am

I tried the "hinge up" method on my 96 GL1500 with sidecar, but found the mounting for sidecar was in the way for the right sidebag to move up. The right bag holds the battery (car battery) and all the wiring for sidecar. I opted to remove the left bag for easier access, and with 3 wheels, I could jack the rear of bike up in a diagonal forward motion, and slide the wheel down and out the back. It worked just fine. My biggest aggravation was that the rear drive flange was left sitting in the final drive, and the tire would not clear the pins that comes from the flange and into the rubber dampers in the wheel. If you experience the same problem, make sure the rear drive flange follows the wheel and not sit behind in the final drive.
Of course it only took a quick look in the "bible" to realize my mistake .

User avatar
Bob Myers
Posts: 60
Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2013 10:15 pm
Location: Richmond Ky
Motorcycle: 1995 GL1500 Aspencade

Re: Easier way to remove GL1500 Rear tyre

Postby Bob Myers » Sun Feb 02, 2014 6:26 pm

zamboni920 wrote:I tried the "hinge up" method on my 96 GL1500 with sidecar, but found the mounting for sidecar was in the way for the right sidebag to move up. The right bag holds the battery (car battery) and all the wiring for sidecar. I opted to remove the left bag for easier access, and with 3 wheels, I could jack the rear of bike up in a diagonal forward motion, and slide the wheel down and out the back. It worked just fine. My biggest aggravation was that the rear drive flange was left sitting in the final drive, and the tire would not clear the pins that comes from the flange and into the rubber dampers in the wheel. If you experience the same problem, make sure the rear drive flange follows the wheel and not sit behind in the final drive.
Of course it only took a quick look in the "bible" to realize my mistake .

Where did you place the jack to lift? How high must it go for tire to clear. I'll be doing this in a week or so from now, just trying to work up the ambition to do it.
1995 GW Interstate w/Champion Escort sidecar, Dart trailer.
1993 GW Interstate-my commuter
1986 Yamaha Venture

User avatar
cpwomer
Posts: 30
Joined: Fri Jun 10, 2011 9:47 am
Location: ellijay,GA
Motorcycle: 1988 GL1500
Contact:

Re: Easier way to remove GL1500 Rear tyre

Postby cpwomer » Sun Feb 02, 2014 7:57 pm

Ive done it that way twice and then I had an easier idea, I threw down a heavy moving pad loosened the left muffler clamp and hanger bolt so the muffler could be rotated out of the way of the axle coming out... Then loosened the axle nut... Now here comes the part you won't like lay the bike on the blanket on it right side... YES lay the bike on its side gently it will stop at about 30 degrees... Pull the caliper (brake) and the axle, watch for any spacers coming out And the wheel pulls out the bottom. Reassemble in reverse and if you don't know how to pickup a Goldwing by yourself go to tube and look for the guy that gives classes on how to do it the easy way... Yeah like nobody has ever not dropped a Goldwing!!!!????!!! Teeehhheeeehheeeee*******
1988 GL1500 U.S Army, Ret. Owner/Operator,Ride Captain Patriot Guard Rider of GA, Director American Legion Riders Post 149 Jasper, GA

User avatar
waituntilthebeep
Posts: 229
Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2013 12:38 pm
Location: Rainy Pacific Northwest
Motorcycle: 2012 GL1800
Black and Silver
Previously:
1989 GL1500
Wineberry Red
'01 Shadow 750
DOUBLE DARK SIDE #1467 on Michelin Primacy and BT45

Re: Easier way to remove GL1500 Rear tyre

Postby waituntilthebeep » Sun Feb 02, 2014 10:14 pm

cpwomer wrote:Ive done it that way twice and then I had an easier idea, I threw down a heavy moving pad loosened the left muffler clamp and hanger bolt so the muffler could be rotated out of the way of the axle coming out... Then loosened the axle nut... Now here comes the part you won't like lay the bike on the blanket on it right side... YES lay the bike on its side gently it will stop at about 30 degrees... Pull the caliper (brake) and the axle, watch for any spacers coming out And the wheel pulls out the bottom. Reassemble in reverse and if you don't know how to pickup a Goldwing by yourself go to tube and look for the guy that gives classes on how to do it the easy way... Yeah like nobody has ever not dropped a Goldwing!!!!????!!! Teeehhheeeehheeeee*******

i would love to see pics or video of that process. I too thought of laying the bike over but was worried that some important bolts might be under what I was trying to get out.

User avatar
bellboy40
Posts: 127
Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 1:13 pm
Location: Brewton, AL
Motorcycle: 1994 GL1500SE
Pearl Bermuda Green

Re: Easier way to remove GL1500 Rear tyre

Postby bellboy40 » Wed Feb 05, 2014 8:35 pm

I helped my buddy do the "tilt over" method for getting the bags out of the way to change his tire. We had a hard time getting the lower mounting bolts back in there with everything lined up properly also as some others have mentioned. When I changed the rear tire on mine I just removed the saddle bags and the rear panel behind the tire. Then I just rolled the tire out the back with it on the center stand. I found removing the bags was the easiest method for me and that is how I plan to do the job next time. Rotating the whole bag assembly does give you fantastic access to everything at the back of the bike though.

User avatar
bjatwood
Posts: 363
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2012 10:19 am
Location: Blair, Nebraska
Motorcycle: 1998 GL1500 SE
1973 CB750 K3
1970 CT70-HKO

Re: Easier way to remove GL1500 Rear tyre

Postby bjatwood » Thu Feb 06, 2014 1:31 pm

I did the tilt up and out of the way also. Very easy to do and straightforward. Just remember when lowering to get the plastic out on the sides over the crash bars, AND that the bags actually tilt a bit up and not horizontally flat in relation to the ground when the assembly is down and in position. ;) That little tidbit on the bags will save about an hour!! LOL

User avatar
CaptainDave
Posts: 23
Joined: Sun Sep 01, 2013 11:34 pm
Location: lake arrowhead, California
Motorcycle: 1997 1500SE Goldwing
Contact:

Re: Easier way to remove GL1500 Rear tyre

Postby CaptainDave » Thu Feb 06, 2014 9:33 pm

(I WAS THE MAN WHO CHANGED tire above)
-ps- I just got a call from an old rider friend who will stop riding- and wants to sell me his bike ... sooooo - I might sell my Gwing/my best friend might be for sale for a fair price for quick sale ... forest green starts good - smooth shifting up/down ... dependable .. 1997 1500 SE 49k miles TWO NEW TIRES ! - runs strong, I ride all the time here in sunny southern CA - 2-owner bike $5999 is a fair price - worth $1000/$1500 more in spring/summer - know anyone who wants a good rider - located 92352 pls10 at hotmail
nice to meet you ... all the best ...

- come ride with us up in the beautiful San Bernardino Mountains in sunny southern Calif

Captain D - retired
Lake Arrowhead, CA
Goldwing 1500SE rider

hondageorge
Posts: 42
Joined: Mon Nov 11, 2013 12:26 am
Location: Snellville, Georgia
Motorcycle: 1997 GL-1500SE
2005 Silverwing
1992 Honda 750
2004 Honda VTX 1300 S (for sale)
1970 CL-350 (original first bike)

1970 CB-350

Re: Easier way to remove GL1500 Rear tyre

Postby hondageorge » Sun Mar 16, 2014 10:23 pm

Only wish I took step by step pictures. It's explained in detail in above posts. No wiring disconnects. Loosen a few bolts and remove two others. Removing the mufflers is just as easy as rotating them out of the way, after you remove the muffler guards. As noted above, realigning the three frame members and putting the 2 bolts in blind through the saddlebags is the frustrating part...like anything, do it once and it's easy after that to line everything up. That allen wrench alignment technique seems like the ticket for that. Safety first, keep your fingers out of that blind hole while aligning things. This is a worthwhile rear tire removal technique for the side of the road if circumstances require it.. Lift the back up & tie it up with a rope or bungee, remove the tire and bring it back down to put your tools back in the locked saddlebags while you get the tire repaired/replaced.
2 bolt removal flip-up
2 bolt removal flip-up

2 bolt removal flip up for tire removal
2 bolt removal flip up for tire removal

User avatar
OldZX11Rider
Posts: 1134
Joined: Mon Nov 09, 2015 9:25 am
Location: Garfield, Arkansas
Motorcycle: 1994 Honda GL1500 Goldwing SE

Re: Easier way to remove GL1500 Rear tyre

Postby OldZX11Rider » Wed Nov 25, 2015 3:09 pm

Like they say, a photo is worth a thousand words. I would like to learn this method, but the first time I change my rear tire, I need to take everything apart. There's so much up under there that needs cleaning! And I'm sure some of the brackets will need wire brushed, sanded and repainted.
Only question is, should I remove the battery before doing it this way?
For he is the minister of God to thee for good. But if thou do that which is evil, be afraid; for he beareth not the sword in vain:

User avatar
CaptainDave
Posts: 23
Joined: Sun Sep 01, 2013 11:34 pm
Location: lake arrowhead, California
Motorcycle: 1997 1500SE Goldwing
Contact:

Re: Easier way to remove GL1500 Rear tyre

Postby CaptainDave » Wed Nov 25, 2015 5:35 pm

I guy told me to remove the handlebars and windshield as well to make it easier .. it wasn't any easier I discovered ... but cleaning the carbon off the valves and the top of the pistons seemed to make everything go smoother ........ next time I will change 4th gear in the trans - because there was a 1500 guru in the mountains of Spain who recommended this technique ..... can't wait :P :o :lol:


nice to meet you ... all the best ...

- come ride with us up in the beautiful San Bernardino Mountains in sunny southern Calif

Captain D - retired
Lake Arrowhead, CA
Goldwing 1500SE rider


Return to “GL1500 Information & Questions”




Who is online

Users browsing this forum: 04 Spirit, Bing [Bot], linkdexbot [Bot] and 2 guests