'95 GL1500 SE clutch hose R&R


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Sempai
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'95 GL1500 SE clutch hose R&R

Postby Sempai » Fri Feb 11, 2011 1:30 am



I have my '95 Wing torn to pieces to install a healthy LED system throughout the bike. While I had it apart, I discovered the clutch hose, which is ONE PIECE from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder, had a pinhole in the flexible portion that goes up to the master cylinder. I got a new hose, and the service manual doesn't say anything about its removal/replacement....
MY QUESTION IS THIS: does the front fairing (nose) HAVE TO come off to get the clutch line out (and/or the new one in?) I'll have no problem removing the old one, I can cut it to pieces if need be, but will the new one go in without removing the nose from the bike???


Keep the rubber side down.

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Re: '95 GL1500 SE clutch hose R&R

Postby WingAdmin » Fri Feb 11, 2011 1:59 pm

If it's not attached in place, you could do the same as throttle cables, and attach the new one to the old one, then pull the old one out, at the same time pulling the new one into place in the same route.

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Re: '95 GL1500 SE clutch hose R&R

Postby Sempai » Fri Feb 11, 2011 2:42 pm

Using one to pull the other surely is not possible. It is not a cable, it is a hydraulic line, which is flexible hose from the master cylinder to the neck of the frame, steel piping along the frame from the neck to just aft of the transmission, and flexible hose from there to the slave cylinder. The rigid portion of the line is form fitted along the inside of the left, upper frame rail. I'm asking if anyone knows if the nose fairing NEEDS removed to install the new line...I don't care about the old one, I can cut it to pieces and it'd be out in minutes!
Keep the rubber side down.

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Re: '95 GL1500 SE clutch hose R&R

Postby Sempai » Mon Feb 14, 2011 3:10 am

Well, I couldn't wait, so I just did it.
For anyone who cares to know: The entire clutch hose can be removed by pulling it out from the rear, the nose fairing does NOT have to come off<-- big relief! After looking the job over meticulously prior to trying it, I decided removal of the alternator first would help tremendously, and it comes off, and out, easily. INSTALLING the new hose was still a trick, but I was successful with very minor tweaking of the forward end of the hard line. I only tweaked it as it became necessary while I pushed/pulled it forward from the rear. To keep debris from contaminating the new line, I wrapped both ends with masking tape prior to snaking it back in through the frame.
Keep the rubber side down.

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Re: '95 GL1500 SE clutch hose R&R

Postby thrasherg » Mon Feb 14, 2011 10:58 am

Congrats on getting it done.. I guess we now know the answer the next time someone asks this same question!! :D How did the bleeding go? Did you manage to get all the air out of the new hose and a nice clutch lever feeling? :?:

Gary

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Re: '95 GL1500 SE clutch hose R&R

Postby MikeB » Sun Feb 20, 2011 7:56 pm

Great job. Thanks for letting us all know how it was accomplished.
MikeB
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Re: '95 GL1500 SE clutch hose R&R

Postby Happytrails » Sat Mar 15, 2014 1:34 pm

Sempai wrote:Well, I couldn't wait, so I just did it.
For anyone who cares to know: The entire clutch hose can be removed by pulling it out from the rear, the nose fairing does NOT have to come off<-- big relief! After looking the job over meticulously prior to trying it, I decided removal of the alternator first would help tremendously, and it comes off, and out, easily. INSTALLING the new hose was still a trick, but I was successful with very minor tweaking of the forward end of the hard line. I only tweaked it as it became necessary while I pushed/pulled it forward from the rear. To keep debris from contaminating the new line, I wrapped both ends with masking tape prior to snaking it back in through the frame.


Wasn't sure whether to start a new thread or just resurrect this old one so here we are. All the tupperware is off, alternator is removed and both front/rear rubber portions of the clutch hose is loose. I'm trying to wiggle it to get an idea if Sempai's method would work for me too. The steel portion of the line does run tight up inside the upper left frame. I can get my fingers on it and wiggle it slightly. There just doesn't seem to be much room in there for snaking a new line back in. I guess I'm still sizing this up. My idea is to tie some string to the front banjo bolt then tape it over so it can slip thru. I'll pull the old one out (hopefully) and pull the string thru to tie it only the new clutch hose banjo bolt and do it in reverse. I think squirting some WD40 in there might help some. For what its worth I've been taking photo's but since I haven't actually had success yet it might not be worth it.

Has anybody else done this and have any good tips on how to do it? :D
1991 GL1500 SE Anniversary Edition
Sun Flare Gold Metallic
Vallant Brown Inset

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Re: '95 GL1500 SE clutch hose R&R

Postby Sempai » Sat Mar 15, 2014 2:33 pm

In my opinion, you won't have any luck with pulling the new line in in the fashion you're describing. In this case, the only reason for pulling a tracer line out with the old line is so the string could help identify the correct passage for the new line...
The new line is already formed in the correct shape which really negates the need for the tracer. Installing the new line is only scary to THINK about doing, but once you get started, you'll find it goes in fairly easily. From the rear, snake the front of the new line forward into place. I tweaked the line very slightly here or there, as needed to clear obstacles, and tweaked it back into correct shape with very little effort. Be sure to throw some tape over both open ends to avoid contamination with debris from the work area.
Keep the rubber side down.

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Re: '95 GL1500 SE clutch hose R&R

Postby Happytrails » Sat Mar 15, 2014 2:50 pm

Thanks Sempai!! :D I'd be real happy if it goes in fairly easy. Like you mentioned it seems very difficult at this point. Yes I am pulling a string thru to help guide the new hose into the right spot. I wasn't going to try and tug on it too much. I'm hoping to do a little pushing and pulling to work the new hose into place. Hope that makes sense.

I'm looking at the new line Honda sent me and it looks a little out of shape. Its looking more bent in a curve that it might need to be but I dont have the old one out to compare it. You mentioned you tweaked yours a little. Did you have to reshape it a little as well or did you just start working it in place?
1991 GL1500 SE Anniversary Edition
Sun Flare Gold Metallic
Vallant Brown Inset

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Re: '95 GL1500 SE clutch hose R&R

Postby Sempai » Sat Mar 15, 2014 6:28 pm

Hmmm...interesting query. I don't recall whether my new line was, um, straight or curved...I suspect there will be some curvature to it in the end as the framerail itself is not arrow-straight to begin with. You'll find as you get it towards the neck area that you'll wish it had just a leeeeetle bit more bend here or there and you'll be able to tweak it with your bare hands...just don't get carried away and you'll be able to, ehrrm...untweak it as it falls into place.
Keep the rubber side down.

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Happytrails
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Re: '95 GL1500 SE clutch hose R&R

Postby Happytrails » Sat Mar 15, 2014 7:06 pm

Will look for that for sure, thanks for the help :D
1991 GL1500 SE Anniversary Edition
Sun Flare Gold Metallic
Vallant Brown Inset

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Re: '95 GL1500 SE clutch hose R&R

Postby Greenwinger » Sun Jun 19, 2016 12:02 pm

I know this post has been asleep for a while, but I am thinking of replacing my clutch line (and brake lines) with a stainless steel lines. Rumor has it that the clutch line would have to be about 72" long. Dose that sound about right to you guys?? I was thinking of running along side of the original steel line using it as an attachment point along the way. What are your thoughts on that plan?


Thanks

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Re: '95 GL1500 SE clutch hose R&R

Postby Sempai » Sun Jun 19, 2016 1:59 pm

Greenwinger wrote:IRumor has it that the clutch line would have to be about 72" ... I was thinking of running along side of the original steel line using it as an attachment point along the way. What are your thoughts on that plan?

I didn't measure the replacement part when I got it, I ordered it from Honda, it was surely the correct length. Take a length of string , tie it to the clutch lever's banjo bolt, run the string alongside the factory hoses and line, knot the string at the slave cylinder's banjo...pull the string back out and measure fro the master's banjo to the knot, this should give you a fair idea of how long your replacement hose needs to be. Keep in mind the hose will not be making any sharp bends along the way...you hope.


Keep the rubber side down.


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