Synthetic Motor oil


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Synthetic Motor oil

Postby gkimbrou » Tue Dec 06, 2011 3:59 pm



I have been using synthetic motor oil in all of my vehicles for several years now. Can a regular car synthetic motor oil (Mobil 1) be used in my 1996 GL-Goldwing-SE? Where I live, there isn't any motorcycle shop within 200 miles, so its buy on the internet or get locally available car oils. THANKS.


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Re: Synthetic Motor oil

Postby WingAdmin » Tue Dec 06, 2011 4:34 pm

gkimbrou wrote:I have been using synthetic motor oil in all of my vehicles for several years now. Can a regular car synthetic motor oil (Mobil 1) be used in my 1996 GL-Goldwing-SE? Where I live, there isn't any motorcycle shop within 200 miles, so its buy on the internet or get locally available car oils. THANKS.


You can use Mobil 1 auto oil as long as it is the "High Mileage" version, as it doesn't have the "energy conserving" properties that will cause problems with a wet clutch. That's the oil I have in my 1500 right now, in fact.
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Re: Synthetic Motor oil

Postby gkimbrou » Tue Dec 06, 2011 5:26 pm

What weight do you use? 10W30 or 10W40??
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Re: Synthetic Motor oil

Postby WingAdmin » Tue Dec 06, 2011 10:29 pm

I use the 10W40, which should be good for most any temperature.
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Re: Synthetic Motor oil

Postby Dogsled » Fri Dec 30, 2011 8:48 pm

Is the Mobil one a synthetic? It's gettin hard to to find anything that isn't energy conserving. It reminds me of when they phased out leaded gas, everyone was driving out of their way to get leaded because their cars wouldn't run right without it. When they went to unleaded completely and no one had a choice, everything quieted down and life went on. I've been using an energy conserving for 3 years now and my clutches are the same. I wonder how long it would take for it to affect clutch plates......probably 4 years with my luck... :shock:
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Re: Synthetic Motor oil

Postby ron25 » Sat Dec 31, 2011 12:03 pm

Iv'e just done an oil and filter change on my 1989 1500 Aspencade, and I use Castrol power 1 10/40 this is an oil that can be used for wet and dry clutches. Just make sure that whatever you put in it is compatable with a wet clutch. The manufacture of the oil is not that important as the Goldwing is pretty bullet proof if treated correctly. I was told by other wing riders not to use fully synthetic oil.
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Re: Synthetic Motor oil

Postby Dogsled » Sat Dec 31, 2011 4:47 pm

Nice to have a list like this with Brand and Types so it makes it easier to find compatable oils that are safe for the clutches.
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Re: Synthetic Motor oil

Postby landisr » Tue Jan 03, 2012 11:01 pm

I bought my 94A new in '95, and have been alternating between Mobil One and Shell Rotella full syn ever since I got to 20,000 miles. I change the oil and filter every season, or about 10,000 mi. It has almost 160k on it now, with the original clutch, and it still purrs like a kitten, unless I ask it to GROWL. Whatever you use, be sure the second number (ie 10w40) is either 40 or 50, and that will guarantee that you will not have energy conserving.

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Re: Synthetic Motor oil

Postby emtpcc » Wed Jan 04, 2012 12:29 pm

I use Lucas full synthetic motorcycle oil. Dad swore by it and I've been using it in the Wing, and both cruisers without any trouble in them. The guy I work with has even switched to using it in his Rebel (non filter) and said he thinks it seems to run a little easier. I'd say the most important thing is change your oil and filter OFTEN. No matter what you use, don't over use it. Oil (any kind) and filters are cheap and easily to change. Engines are not!
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Re: Synthetic Motor oil

Postby bhazlet » Wed Jan 04, 2012 12:52 pm

Save your money. I have been using Mobil 1 since 1995. I just switched to Chevron Delco 400 LE. The engine is quieter and the shifting is quiet too. Especially from 1st to 2nd gear. Just did this on Dec. 31, 2011. The Delco is under $13.00 at Wal-Mart. Also, I used the Wal-Mart SUPER TECH filter # ST #7317, under $3.00. A lot riders like this one for the price. I think Champion makes it. The engine is so quiet now that I here the Dunlop E3's singing at slow speeds. Just my 2 cents worth.
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Re: Synthetic Motor oil

Postby rilsejr_1 » Sat Jan 07, 2012 12:41 am

;) I thought I knew pretty much about clutches on our bikes and was under the impression that you could not use anything but regular motorcycle oil made for wet clutches. I was told that the synthic oil would cause the clutches to slip and not work at all. According you what you all are saying is that the synthic oil works fine on a 1993 goldwing SE.
Thanks for the info :P
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Re: Synthetic Motor oil

Postby Dogsled » Sat Jan 07, 2012 9:50 am

I find changing the oil in the middle of summer helps more for the trans and clutches than the engine. The quality of all oils today are so good compared to the 70's, that for the short amount of time it's actually in the bike, oil weight is all I really look at. Also, synthetics seem to be a waste of money for the low mileage when it's being drained and changed so often.
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Re: Synthetic Motor oil

Postby Mooseman » Sun Jan 08, 2012 4:18 pm

Here are a couple of good articles about oil.

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Consumables.html

I myself use the Delo 400 and the Delvac 1300. I like them both. I change my oil and filter every 3-4k. The book calls for every 8k on my GL1200.
Oil is one of those many diffrent idea, subjects. Just my 2C worth.
Enjoy the ride. They are all good, just some better than others.
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Re: Synthetic Motor oil

Postby gregM784 » Wed Jan 11, 2012 5:37 pm

I run AMSoil 10-40 in all my bikes. I like it, and you can buy it by the gallon for about 40$. That way i never have to worry about what oil goes in what bike. :)
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Re: Synthetic Motor oil

Postby Ray Aube » Thu Jan 12, 2012 8:13 pm

I'm using Rotella T6 sold at Walmart in my 2000 SE and it works terrific. It carries the correct specification for the Goldwing wet clutch system. Recommend you stay away from any oils that show friction reduction properties in the bottom half of the API circle.
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Re: Synthetic Motor oil

Postby Zekesic » Wed Feb 01, 2012 8:54 pm

+1 on the Amsoil 10/40 motorcycle oil. I use it in all my bikes also. Amsoil dealers are easy to find and you also can order direct from their warehouse.
Their 75/90 gear lube works well in the shaft drive.
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Re: Synthetic Motor oil

Postby Dogsled » Thu Feb 02, 2012 10:13 am

Everyone seems to have a favorite oil that works best for them, car and bike.
Maybe instead of just putting in the oil we use, it should be followed up by an explanation of what ingredients or combination of ingredients make it safe for combination use in the motor AND transmission/clutches. This seems to be the fear factor, that an oil may do damage because it doesn't do all the things needed to maintain a healthy drivetrain. I would like to see fact on ONE oil that would damage the clutches and trans...just one.
Here's a FACT I've come across using oil. I changed to non synthetic. My trans on an older wing seems to shift better with a bit heavier weight weight oil (ANY brand) I can tell it needs changed when shifting gets a little 'clunky'. The oil is cheap and three time a year works good and I haven't damaged anything so I feel that it's working. Non sysnthetic is a costly waste with that many oil changes. My trans still shifts like new with no damage.
I would love to know brands to avoid because they caused major damage to your trans/clutches so we can avoid them. I don't believe I have ever seen such a list, it would be better to have than a list of favorites.
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Re: Synthetic Motor oil

Postby artgrantz » Thu Feb 02, 2012 1:21 pm

I bought my 1500 with 14K on the odometer. I have been using Mobil 1 in it ever since, now have 145K with no issues.
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Re: Synthetic Motor oil

Postby landisr » Thu Feb 02, 2012 10:54 pm

My understanding is that it is a FACT the energy conserving oils WILL have adverse effects on a wet clutch. Use your choice of oil, just make sure the energy conserving symbol or designation is not on the front of the bottle.

An example is here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motorcycle_oil

More reading http://vfrworld.com/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm

But then again, maybe the above can't really be considered FACT. Do a Google (or whatever) search, and the growing consensus is to stay away from EC oils with a wet clutch. I THINK that most manufacturers recommend viscosities that are outside or heavier than oils that are EC any way, so this whole topic could be considered somewhat moot. Choose your fave brand, color, syn, dino, peanut or whatever. If your clutch starts slipping, just go back and re-read the bottle.

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Re: Synthetic Motor oil

Postby Zekesic » Fri Feb 03, 2012 8:17 am

The FACT is a motorcycle engine operates in a different environment than an auto engine. As compared to an auto engine a motorcycle engine the high heat, high RPM, wet clutch, shared transmission and intermittent use.
Personally, though I use synthetic, it only makes sense to me to use an oil spec'd for these conditions whether Dino or synthetic.
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Re: Synthetic Motor oil

Postby themainviking » Fri Feb 03, 2012 10:01 am

Dogsled wrote:I find changing the oil in the middle of summer helps more for the trans and clutches than the engine. The quality of all oils today are so good compared to the 70's, that for the short amount of time it's actually in the bike, oil weight is all I really look at. Also, synthetics seem to be a waste of money for the low mileage when it's being drained and changed so often.


In the situations you describe, you are totally correct. If changing your oil 'very' frequently, synthetics would be a waste of money. They were designed for extended life, and otherwise, you are throwing your bucks away with the oil. If changing at 3K mile intervals, cheap oil filters are okay too, keeping in mind that $15 each for three changes a year (or 5 or 7) is probably pretty much what you would get with synthetics and a better filter with one change a year. Same price, less labor. If you do your own, labor doesn't count. If you do a lot of long trips (5 to 7 K miles) and do your own labor, you might want to rethink your system. Changing your oil over a storm drain is frowned upon..... :lol:
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Re: Synthetic Motor oil

Postby themainviking » Fri Feb 03, 2012 10:14 am

Dogsled wrote:an explanation of what ingredients or combination of ingredients make it safe for combination use in the motor AND transmission/clutches. This seems to be the fear factor, that an oil may do damage because it doesn't do all the things needed to maintain a healthy drivetrain. I would like to see fact on ONE oil that would damage the clutches and trans...just one.


The spec we look for in a motorcycle oil, for use with wet clutches is:

"JASO MA
Japanese standard for special oil which can be used in 4-stroke motorcycle engine with one oil system for engine, gearbox and wet clutch system. Fluid is non-friction modified."

Not using these spec'd oils does not necessarily damage clutches so much as cause them to slip, and so require cleaning, or if left to slip long enough, replacement. No specific brand of oils will cause this. Only the missing spec, JASO MA, would be a possible guilty culprit in this. There are a lot of JASO specs, in two seperate categories, 2T and 4T. The MA classification is one of only two under the 4T heading, MB is the other, and is for automobile oil, and it is NOT, repeat NOT suitable for motorcycle wet clutch use.

More information can be found here:

http://www.oilspecifications.org/jaso.php

And a list of JASO MA and MA2 (and MB) certified listed oils can be found here:

http://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/pdf/4T_EV_LIST.pdf

This list is not necessarily a complete list of all oils that are JASO MA certified, but only the ones who have requested to be listed.
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Re: Synthetic Motor oil

Postby landisr » Fri Feb 03, 2012 10:40 am

Mr. Viking: Thanks for spelling it out better.

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Re: Synthetic Motor oil

Postby themainviking » Fri Feb 03, 2012 10:47 am

landisr wrote:Mr. Viking: Thanks for spelling it out better.

Ron in MI


Happy to do it... Ride safe Ron
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Re: Synthetic Motor oil

Postby Ray Aube » Mon Apr 02, 2012 9:06 am

Rotella T6 is rated JASO MA and is less expensive than the bike specific oils such as Amsoil.


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