2007 ABS light issue - warranty


Information and questions on GL1800 Goldwings (2001-Present)
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youngguy
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2007 ABS light issue - warranty

Postby youngguy » Mon Oct 01, 2012 9:32 am



Howdy,

I purchased a slightly used GL1800 with only 7K but after hitting 12K after a few months, the ABS stays ON all the time. I checked the three fuses and reset per manual to no avail. I had a really good local GL1800 mechanic friend and found the issue MIGHT be the wiring between the display LED ABS light and the ABS controller. Since he cannot process Honda warranties, I decided to take the wing into a local Honda dealer since it was still under extended warranty. It has been one week and they still have not looked at it!

1. The Honda dealer is going to charge me a diagnostic fee to assess the issue. If the issue is ABS related, then Honda will pay for the parts and labor. I know with Honda automobiles, the computer can be plugged into the car and you generate fairly detailed error codes? Is this diagnostic tool available on the GL1800?

2. I have a feeling it could take many weeks of bantering between the dealer and the Honda Corporation on how much needs to be replaced or fixed. If it is only a wiring relay will Honda also replaced the harness, ABS computer as well? Does anyone have experience with ABS related warranty work and how long I might be left bikeless during this ordeal?

3. Can I get an additional warranty at this juncture when the current one runs out?

Thanks guys!



joe c
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Re: 2007 ABS light issue - warranty

Postby joe c » Mon Oct 01, 2012 1:32 pm

I would think that the bike, being under warranty.....that the dealer shouldn't charge you for anything. The ABS light is on...and that's enough of an indicator to the Honda dealer that something is wrong. I'd question the fee that they want to charge.

youngguy
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Re: 2007 ABS light issue - Mice chewed ABS harness

Postby youngguy » Tue Oct 02, 2012 8:11 am

ISSUE FOUND: Mice had chewed through the ABS harness. The total repair cost is $650 to replace the entire ABS harness. The bike has not been ridden in only two days and the darn critters jumped inside and chewed away.

I have also had my car's EF harness chewed by mice getting in the engine during cold weather. I am going to invest in some rat poison and place it near the tires and around the garage.

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WingAdmin
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Re: 2007 ABS light issue - warranty

Postby WingAdmin » Tue Oct 02, 2012 11:48 am

If I was faced with a $650 repair estimate, I'd be getting busy with some wire and a soldering iron to repair what I had.

The problem with poison is that they eat the poison, then go hide in some inaccessible place in your house to die, rot, and stink. Personal experience speaking here.

I use good old snap traps baited with peanut butter. Amazingly effective, and eliminates my mouse problem.

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tfdeputydawg
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Re: 2007 ABS light issue - warranty

Postby tfdeputydawg » Wed Oct 03, 2012 5:54 am

youngguy wrote:Howdy,

I purchased a slightly used GL1800 with only 7K but after hitting 12K after a few months, the ABS stays ON all the time. I checked the three fuses and reset per manual to no avail. I had a really good local GL1800 mechanic friend and found the issue MIGHT be the wiring between the display LED ABS light and the ABS controller. Since he cannot process Honda warranties, I decided to take the wing into a local Honda dealer since it was still under extended warranty. It has been one week and they still have not looked at it!
Did you ask for an estimate of when it would be worked on????

1. The Honda dealer is going to charge me a diagnostic fee to assess the issue. If the issue is ABS related, then Honda will pay for the parts and labor. I know with Honda automobiles, the computer can be plugged into the car and you generate fairly detailed error codes? Is this diagnostic tool available on the GL1800?
Honda will not cover the diagnostic fee, unless the "fault" is a warranty item. Then there should be no charge.

2. I have a feeling it could take many weeks of bantering between the dealer and the Honda Corporation on how much needs to be replaced or fixed. If it is only a wiring relay will Honda also replaced the harness, ABS computer as well? Does anyone have experience with ABS related warranty work and how long I might be left bikeless during this ordeal?

3. Can I get an additional warranty at this juncture when the current one runs out?

Thanks guys!

You bike is an 07, when was it first put into service?
Original warranty expires 3yrs from the date bike was 1st placed in service.
You can buy a 4yr extended warranty any time during that initial 3yr period.
There are a few "independent" warranty policies but, I do not have much faith in them and they are costly!

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themainviking
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Re: 2007 ABS light issue - warranty

Postby themainviking » Wed Oct 03, 2012 7:31 am

WingAdmin wrote:If I was faced with a $650 repair estimate, I'd be getting busy with some wire and a soldering iron to repair what I had.

The problem with poison is that they eat the poison, then go hide in some inaccessible place in your house to die, rot, and stink. Personal experience speaking here.

I use good old snap traps baited with peanut butter. Amazingly effective, and eliminates my mouse problem.


I totally agree here. Rat poison not good, mouse traps very good. I keep four in my RV and ten in my garage. I check them every couple of days all year round, unless I am on a trip, and then I check them all the minute I get home. I seldom go two weeks without two mouses (they seem to travel in pairs) I have had them make nests in my Whisper Quiet Honda generators, using the insulation as nesting material. That was really fun to clean up, and the generator lost its really quiet running. I have had nests in Air breathers too. I have been lucky enough to not have any wiring chewed up - yet..... :lol:

Glad to hear you found your ABS issue. Kind of an expensive repair.
It ain't about the destination - it's all about the journey

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Red Ron
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Re: 2007 ABS light issue - warranty

Postby Red Ron » Wed Oct 03, 2012 8:41 am

[code][/code]

When your Honda Factory "Extended" warranty runs out, you can't get any more extension on it.

youngguy
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Re: 2007 ABS light issue - warranty

Postby youngguy » Wed Oct 03, 2012 9:57 am

I could have welded and patched the ABS wire, but considering how important it is, I opted for an entire new harness.

Based on how reliable the Wing is, I am not really worried about an extended warranty. Now the mice problem have also eaten the EF harness as well in my car which compounds the problem. I have an open garage port. I am considering electronic mice repellent. Anybody have experience with those things?

I am talking to more and more mechanics whose cars and motorcycles wiring are being chewed by mice. With the warm winter weather the past several years, the mice population has really exploded.

Perhaps I should have a pet bull snake under my bike?

:lol:

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tfdeputydawg
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Re: 2007 ABS light issue - warranty

Postby tfdeputydawg » Wed Oct 03, 2012 2:34 pm

electronic="snake oil"
As posted in answer to another, place a few small trays around the carport w/moth balls.

youngguy
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Re: 2007 ABS light issue - warranty

Postby youngguy » Sun Oct 07, 2012 4:37 pm

Thanks folks for the suggestions!

I purchased at Home Depot an electronic mice repellent device and an electric mouse trap that zaps them instantly as they try to go inside and eat a small crumb of cheese.

youngguy
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Re: 2007 ABS light issue - warranty

Postby youngguy » Tue Oct 09, 2012 6:31 pm

other ideas:

1. Dryer sheets

“I have had a 1966 Ford Fairlane 500 XL for 18 years, and I also have an acre in the country, so we see our share of mice. The best thing I've used is dryer sheets. Just go to the Dollar Store and buy a box. They don't have to be expensive. I just lay them all over the interior, under the hood, in the trunk, on top of the tires – even in the exhaust pipe. Then, in the spring, gather them all up and toss them. Not only will there be no mice, the car will smell like it just came out of the dryer. Works great for me!”

“Try Bounce fabric softener dryer sheets. Mice don’t like the smell, but you’ll like it better than moth balls. Use them in several places in the car.”

“One of the best things to deter rodents is to put multiple sheets of a fabric softener inside the car (“Bounce” is excellent!). There is a very low odor associated with the smell after taking the car out of storage, yet rodents hate this item!!! I have a car that I put in storage each winter and also have a 30-foot camping trailer that I store. I have never had one problem since I was introduced to this idea years ago, and I had many problems with rodents before using this technique.”

“I've tried with a good amount of success using fabric softener sheets placed around the car and inside the vehicle. Bounce seems to work the best. I received this information from an upholstery shop that does a lot of work on vehicle interiors.”

2. D-Con

“The best (and most effective) means of removing all rats and mice from virtually any place is to place D-Con around in areas accessible by the mice and rats, but too small to be accessible by dogs, cats, or any other pets you may have. You may (or may not) detect a slight odor as they are killed off, but I can assure you will never be bothered by them again. I'm 75 years old and have used D-Con all my life, and have yet to see any signs of mice or rats beyond the third or fourth day of setting out the D-Con. I have an antique car, and I use D-Con in it while it is in storage to guarantee against any damage to upholstery or insulation in the car.”

3. Traps

“The best killer is the Victor snap traps with the 1-inch square plastic yellow tongue. It's more sensitive than traditional snap traps with the small metal tongue. I prefer a small smear of peanut butter in a center hole. You don't want much; just enough to give off the scent. The one downside of these traps is that if they sit long enough without a mouse going for the bait, crickets (and some small bugs) can eat all the traces of peanut butter without setting off the traps because they are so light. A combination of fabric sheets, snap traps, and building inspection and maintenance will keep your classic rodent free.”

“I have five classic cars and believe me, I have tried everything to keep the mice away. But I keep going back to the old faithful mouse trap. You have to keep an eye on them, but they do work. I also have a commercial pest control company put out poison. So far (keeping my fingers crossed) I haven't had much trouble or damage from the varmints. Years ago I made the mistake of putting the trap inside the car. It was nearly impossible to get the smell out of the car! Don't make that mistake.”

4. Mothballs

“The ultimate prevention to mice invasion, or any other rodent invasion, is the good, old-fashioned mothball. By the first of summer the mothballs are gone. By opening up the car and taking a few rides, the smell is gone as well.”

“This is the second winter I've tried Bounce, in the car and under the hood. It worked OK last year, so hopefully it will continue to. But of course, there's that half box of mothballs spread around and under the car and in the far corners of the [old] garage, so it may be this combo that works. It sure keeps the chipmunks – destructive monsters compared to mice – out of the garage and from under the porch. “

5. Sulphur

“Garden stores sell granular or powdered pure sulphur. Mice, roaches and other vermin hate the smell. Cut an old pillowcase into 8" x 8" squares and put a spoonfull of sulphur in the center. Gather the ends and tie into a small pouch. Place these bags around areas that may have a mouse or bug problem.”

6. Steel wool

“In addition to the soap and mothballs, I put wads of steel wool inside the pipes on my modifed '48 Willys Jeepster.”

7. Other tips: Tape, jacks, ‘Tom Cat,’ lowered visors, no covers

“Don't forget to put tape over the tail pipe opening and the air intake. A friend could tell you a story about tearing down an engine and finding a mouse carcass on top of a piston.”

“I maybe go a bit overboard, but I'd rather spend a few dollars and be safe than lots come spring. I put my car up on jackstands so only mice that can pole vault or jump really high can reach it. I also put lots of Bounce sheets inside and under the hood. I set about four or five mousetraps that I check every time the weather is warm enough to walk over to the garage where I keep it stored (it’s only a 50 ft. jaunt, but at 20 below it seems like a mile ). I also, since no pets can get into my garage, set out about six little caps of antifreeze. Most of these can be used year after year and so far have been very effective, or maybe I'm just lucky. Either way, when spring comes and everything is the way it was when I parked it, I'm happy.”

“I reproduce interiors of vehicles; a procedure I inform my customers is to purchase "Tom Cat" mice packets. These are sealed packets (6/ box). Do not open the packets but place in trunk, under seats on floor, on top of the air filter cover under the hood. If packets remain closed the bait will remain fresh, if broken it will indicate the presence of an intruder,(who will not remain within the vehicle but leave and search for water). Remove the broken packet and replace with a new sealed packet. The indication of an open packet will remind one to view the vehicle more often. Unfortunately there is no inexpensive means to totally prevent the appearance of rodents, short of obtaining a complete air tight trailer; but this process has worked to assist in keeping the unwanted guests from a restored vehicle. I also recommend that vehicles not be stored in old barns or garages that present means for rodents to have access to the interior of the building. “

“This is not a method to prevent mice from getting in, but rather an extra precaution in case they do get into the interior. Mice have been known to 'nest' behind the sun visor and cause damage to the visor and headliner. Always lower the visor to eliminate the chance for the critters to establish residence on them.”

“I learned not to cover the car because mice like dark areas to build their nests, usually out of the car's installation, hood blanket, seat cushioning material, etc. I live in Colorado and every fall mice and other critters look for a place to come in out of the cold. Anyway, I now leave my trunk and hood both open and no longer have a problem.”

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Re: 2007 ABS light issue - warranty

Postby WingAdmin » Wed Oct 10, 2012 11:40 am

youngguy wrote:“The best killer is the Victor snap traps with the 1-inch square plastic yellow tongue. It's more sensitive than traditional snap traps with the small metal tongue. I prefer a small smear of peanut butter in a center hole. You don't want much; just enough to give off the scent. The one downside of these traps is that if they sit long enough without a mouse going for the bait, crickets (and some small bugs) can eat all the traces of peanut butter without setting off the traps because they are so light. A combination of fabric sheets, snap traps, and building inspection and maintenance will keep your classic rodent free.”


I agree with this - these traps work best, and they're cheap. I put a bit more peanut butter on than a little bit in the center, because ants discover the peanut butter and gradually eat it up. Once the peanut butter is gone (a year or so) I'll just toss the traps (which are then covered in cobwebs and other unpleasantness) and replace them with new ones.




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