This was originally a reply to the Reverse Switch issue, but I ran into an additional problem so I pulled the repair information together.
I just finished repairing my right bar assembly.
Reverse Switch would not latch into Reverse and the Cruise control was latched Enabled. Both switches suffer the same problem; Dried, gummy lube inside the switch body. Basic details follow, individual skills will determine success.
Caution or you'll be hatin' life. There are springs and many little contacts which can easily get lost or fly off into space. It would be easier if the hand grip assembly is removed from the bike so it could go to the bench. Otherwise, let you skills determine your individual course of action.
The switches have 4 main pieces which all snap together and then the button pushes onto the plunger.
A light weight plastic cover which snaps over the contacts as a simple insulator.
The main outer body which everything clips to.
The contact assembly which snaps into the Main body..
The plunger assembly which rides inside it all.
Then there are the small springs and sliding contacts which are the bits which are easy to lose.
The button is not easy to remove from the plunger.
At the bottom of all of that are two tiny pieces, which are 2 of the 3 parts, for the push-push latching system (a small leaf spring and a trap wire). The third part is formed into the plunger itself. The leaf spring keeps the trap wire engaged into the ramps and gates formed into the bottom side of the plunger.
Clean the old lube out and re-lubricate the assembly. I just used silicone dielectric compound. The springs under the sliding contacts were also gummy. Anywhere that grease gets to is now gummy.
Before you go to this next problem test the cleaned and lubed switch first. The other possibility is that the tiny leaf spring is sprung. It's easy to bend but not too much. It's easy to ruin.
When I repaired my Hazard switch, there was another wrinkle; The trap wire was bent. It was almost curled over.
The previous owner had problems with this switch as well. Evidence seems consistent with the notion that it would stick in and the hazards would remain on. The bezel was scarred around the edges from prying which would also explain how the trap wire could get bent.
The ends of the trap wire should be bent at right angles to the middle portion, which should otherwise be straight. There is one end which has a small portion flattened. This is how the wire is retained in the switch body. Otherwise, the leaf spring might have the tendency to push the wire up out of its pivot hole.
If it must be removed, try turning 45 degrees to the side before trying to pull it out. This can lessen the damage to the hole which seems like it might be square.
P.S. "WingAdmin" added a great tip.
"I hate disassembling those tiny little switches, with their springs, ball bearings and so on. I've lost too many of those parts as they go flinging off into space.
I now use a large, transparent plastic bag - like a super-sized ziploc, big enough to get both of my hands into and then some. I disassemble the switches in there, so when the springs let go and pieces go flying, they stay in the bag, instead of vanishing into oblivion under my bench somewhere."
Information and questions on GL1800 Goldwings (2001-Present)
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