new fork spring


Information and questions on GL1800 Goldwings (2001-Present)
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ray49ray
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Mar 20, 2012 7:27 am
Location: Warwick, Rhode Island
Motorcycle: 2001 goldwing

new fork spring

Postby ray49ray » Fri Aug 23, 2013 2:40 pm



have a 2001 . replacing the fork spring to progressive spring can u let me no what im in for if you can let me how to put the spring on I would be very thank full ....I no how to remove the forks and take them apart never did the spring
thank u



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thrasherg
Posts: 1838
Joined: Tue Oct 20, 2009 11:21 am
Location: Plano, TX
Motorcycle: 2004 GL1800, 2005 Honda Shadow 750, 2008 Yamaha R6 with RG500 engine, CRF450X, CRF230, CRF250X, XR200, CR500

Re: new fork spring

Postby thrasherg » Fri Aug 23, 2013 4:21 pm

It's really quite easy, you obviously need to remove the forks from the bike. for that I put the bike on it's center stand, put a jack under the front of the engine (with a block of wood) and then lift the front of the engine until the wheel is off the ground. You need to remove the front mudguard, the brake calipers, axle bolt and wheel, then lossen the upper and lower triple clamps and you can then slide the forks out. The right leg is really easy, just clamp the stanchion (Nice shiny chrome part) in a vice (With rubber jaws (You do NOT want to mark or damage the surface)) then crack the end cap on the fork (I forget if its a 14 or 17mm bolt, but I think its 17mm), once the cap starts to turn, make sure you have the fork vertical then just unscrew the end cap completely out of the fork leg, once it comes off (It will not explode or anything), you can remove the spring, pour out the old fork oil, add new oil (its 10W grade in the GL1800) then put the new spring in and refit the end cap. Job done. The left fork is a little more complicated as there is a damper rod that connects to the end cap internally. You again clamp the stanchion in a rubber jawed vice and crack the end cap. Once the end cap starts to turn, make sure you have the fork vertical and unscrew the end cap completely. Once the end cap has unscrewed from the stanchion it will NOT come away like the right leg as there is a damper rod that has to be disconnected. Once the end cap has unscrewed from the stanchion, remove the fork from the vice (Keep the fork leg vertical) let the stanchion descend into the fork lower section, you will see the fork spring and the damper rod that is connected to the end cap. Take a 14mm spanner and undo the locknut on the end of the damper rod (On the underneath of the end cap). Just loosen the lock nut, then spin the end cap in an anti clockwise direction and the damper rod will unscrew from the end cap. Once the endcap has unscrewed, put it to one side and drain the oil from the fork (note that there are spacers on top of the fork springs, the shorter spacer goes in the left leg (If you get them muddled up)).
Add new oil, once you have the correct level, pull the damper rod out as far as you can and add the spring and spacer, you should then be able to screw the end cap onto the damper rod. Screw it on as far as you can, then tighten up the 14mm lock nut (keep a 17mm spanner on the end cap and use a 14mm on the locknut to tighten them together, do NOT use excessive force!! Once the locknut is done up, then lift the chrome stanchion as high as you can and screw the end cap back into the end of the stanchion.. It really is not difficult but it takes a while to do it all. Removing the brakes and mudguard is harder than changing the springs!! then reinstall the forks, wheel, brakes and mudguard.. Allow a good 3 to 4 hours if this is your first time doing it.

Gary

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themainviking
Posts: 2580
Joined: Wed Sep 29, 2010 6:59 pm
Location: North Bay, Ontario, Canada
Motorcycle: 2009 GL1800 AD

Re: new fork spring

Postby themainviking » Fri Aug 23, 2013 4:59 pm

I really hate to disagree with Gary as he does know what he is talking about, but when I changed my stock springs for Progressives, I did not do all that. I just cleared the tupperware enough to get access to the fork top caps, turned the handlebars to get at them, and changed the springs. Please note that I DID NOT change the fork oil as my bike was brand new when I did this. If you are going to change the fork oil and do all the stuff Gary has described, might I suggest that you change from the stock springs to Progressives MONOSHOCKS, and have the best front end available.
It ain't about the destination - it's all about the journey

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thrasherg
Posts: 1838
Joined: Tue Oct 20, 2009 11:21 am
Location: Plano, TX
Motorcycle: 2004 GL1800, 2005 Honda Shadow 750, 2008 Yamaha R6 with RG500 engine, CRF450X, CRF230, CRF250X, XR200, CR500

Re: new fork spring

Postby thrasherg » Fri Aug 23, 2013 5:10 pm

Viking is correct if you trust the oil level and oil quality (ie it's not too old and hasn't done too many miles) in your forks then just change the spring, but I always change the oil to make sure it is fresh and at the correct level!! Its a lot less work to just change the springs as he suggests, but I enjoy just working on my bike so am happy to take longer and change the oil as well.. :D

Gary

ray49ray
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Mar 20, 2012 7:27 am
Location: Warwick, Rhode Island
Motorcycle: 2001 goldwing

Re: new fork spring

Postby ray49ray » Tue Aug 27, 2013 12:37 pm

thank u guys for all of your info




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