Zumo and alternator noise

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Zumo and alternator noise

Postby doctorofpain » Sat Jun 14, 2014 2:32 pm

I just got a Zumo 660 and installed on my 2006 Wing, everything works fine but listening to my music I get A LOT of alternator whine --- so whats the fix in the old days you went to Radio Shack and got a choke filter to put in line, I'm hoping there is a better fix????

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Re: Zumo and alternator noise

Postby flash2002 » Sun Jun 15, 2014 5:46 am

Hi, one cause of alternator noise is a bad ground, make sure your'e zumo connected to a good ground. If that does't work, try to move your zumo to another spot or try a filter. Maybe someone has a better fix.

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Re: Zumo and alternator noise

Postby 93aspy » Sun Jun 15, 2014 8:25 pm

What your running into is a ground loop, caused by grounds on the bike being at a different ground potential... There are a number of different workarounds for this... You could try a different grounding point, you could install a ground loop isolator (available from Electrical Connection) http://www.electricalconnection.com/audio/filter-gli.htm or you fix the problem at hand by reworking the grounds on the bike... The main ground is under the fuel tank so it's not an easy fix but it is a known problem... Honda in their infinite wisdom used locktite on the bolt that screws into this main ground connection and the locktite sometimes acts as an insulator between the bike frame and the bolt, causing a difference in ground potential between other grounding points on the bike...

If it were me, I would first try a few different grounding points and if that failed, I would go with the EC ground loop isolator and if that failed, repair the main ground on the bike...

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Re: Zumo and alternator noise

Postby doctorofpain » Sun Jun 15, 2014 8:32 pm

Thanks, I did fix a bad round and reground the Garmin and 90% of it went away so I decided to install a ground loop isolator to see if it would remove the remaining noise if not I'll get all the grounds

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Re: Zumo and alternator noise

Postby WingAdmin » Mon Jun 16, 2014 11:22 am

Getting the ground of all your audio components equal is the best way to do this, but a lot of the time it's simply not possible. A ground loop isolator will ALWAYS fix the ground loop problem, as it disconnects the components electrically, and couples the audio magnetically (using transformers). This means there is no difference in ground potential between the components, thus no ground loop.

The one problem with GLI's in motorcycles is that motorcycles are extremely noisy places, electrically speaking. Because GLI's contain transformers that are sensitive to magnetic and EMI (noise), the physical position of the GLI is important. For instance, if your GLI is positioned anywhere even close to your bike's coils, it will pick up a massive amount of ignition noise and inject that into your audio system. For this reason, when using a GLI, it's important to sit on the bike with your headset on and the engine running, and move the GLI around until you find a spot that does not inject noise into the audio.

Some GLI's also have better shielding than others against this sort of thing, and you'll find those typically cost a bit more.

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