2002 GL1800 Hydralic pump


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jamiec@bunkermfg.com
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Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 7:20 am
Location: Sault Ste. Marie
Motorcycle: 2002 GL1800

2002 GL1800 Hydralic pump

Postby jamiec@bunkermfg.com » Mon Aug 15, 2016 10:32 am



My 2002 GL1800 hydraulic pump doesn't start lifting until it gets to #12 . Any one know if it's about to fail. What is the highest number it can be before replacing.



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themainviking
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Motorcycle: 2009 GL1800 AD

Re: 2002 GL1800 Hydralic pump

Postby themainviking » Mon Aug 15, 2016 2:58 pm

It goes up to 25 so you still have some preload remaining. Not starting to show results till 12 is probably about average for your year bike. It probably will not fail, however it could stand a rebuild. The spring is replaceable, and you can get a really good new hose from Traxxion (spring can be gotten from Traxxion also, or from Progressive - the Traxxion will lift the bike higher and stiffer than the Progressive) The oil and hose need to be replaced on your rear shock system. Bit of a job but not impossible for a handy person. The reason for the 12 before results, is that the OEM hose which is just plastic, has stretched.
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tfdeputydawg
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Re: 2002 GL1800 Hydralic pump

Postby tfdeputydawg » Tue Aug 16, 2016 12:55 am

Check for leaks!
Sounds like it needs filled w/fluid

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PastoT
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Motorcycle: 2002 GL1800 (107k)

Re: 2002 GL1800 Hydralic pump

Postby PastoT » Thu Sep 08, 2016 3:30 pm

My 2002 was like most 1800s I've heard about the hydraulic cylinder is fine, but is short of fluid. Being a sealed unit there is no obvious means to top it off. Mine started to load up at about 10 on the gauge 0-25. I'm pasting what I had saved from another forum here, but its from a member their whose name cannot be spoken there (LOL), but he is knowledgeable. This worked like a champ for me; my preset loads up immediately now (3 years running). Its not a leak, its not wear, its not likely anything to do with the hose, its simply a shoddy pump fill from the manufacturer with no simply means to fill it up.

To Test the Actuator
1) Place the bike on the center stand.
2) Turn the ignition to accessory.
3) Lower the pre-set to "O".
4) Now raise the Pre-Set and listen for a sound pitch change from the Actuator. (Standing on the Right side of the bike,listening at the front of the saddlebag saddlebag).The actuator is right behind the black plastic piece with a hole in it that is attached to the side-cover.
5) When you hear the sound pitch change release the pre-set button, and look at the Display to see where the Actuator starts to add fluid through the hose to the Shock Pre-Loader.
6) If your settings are anything above 0-1.Then there is air in the system and it needs to be properly refilled (See Directions below to properly re-fill the actuator)



To refill the actuator.

1) Place the bike on center stand.
2) Turn the ignition key to Accessory and lower your presets to "0'.
3) Remove the seat and side covers.
4) Remove the rear fender.
5) Remove the three bolts inside the right saddlebag.
6) Remove the bolt on the outside upper right of the saddlebag to the frame.
7) Now tilt out the bottom of the saddlebag and let it rest there-You do not have to disconnect anything further!
8 ) Now remove the 2-12mm & 1-10mm bolts from the Actuator securing it to the frame.
9) Now with a pair of needle nosed pliers-squeeze the push in cable holder for the Grey connector.
10) Now you can remove the other connector from the Actuator.
11) Now using brake clean, Spray the area at the banjo bolt/hose so it is clean-You'll be making marks on it there!.
12) Now with a sharpie-make a dot on the top of the banjo "Fitting". So you'll know which end is up later on!.
13) Now make a small line right under the dot you just made to the actuator body. What you are doing here is marking the Orientation of the banjo fitting to the actuator body!. Making Sure you put it back in the same place-this is Important so the hose doesn't get kinked when the actuator is bolted back on the frame later!!.
14) Now you can remove the 10mm banjo bolt from the hose.
15) Either with a helper or duct/masking tape-try and keep that end of the hose as high as you can so fluid doesn't drain out of it while you continue to the next step.(I run the tape up from the hose to the truck if working by myself!)This keeps the hose out of my way for the time being.
16) Now with a thin screwdriver, Insert it into the banjo bolt hole in the actuator, and push the seal piston down with a little pressure until it bottoms out. If you feel or hear it move?. Then try to push it down again until it stays down!. You're trying to fill as much of the actuator reservoir as possible here!.
17) Now you are ready to refill the actuator.it only takes a couple ounces to top it off.
18 ) Once you have it topped off, Now replace the hose according to the marks you made earlier.
19) Now before you bolt it back on-"Test it first"
20) Plug both connectors back in the actuator, an start the bike.
21) Listen for a "Sound" pitch change as you add presets. Once you hear it change sound-Let the button go, and look at the dash-If it's at "0" then you are done, If it at 1 or more. repeat the last steps to add a tad more fluid.

Your goal is to hear a sound change at 0-1.
Tom, in Mountain Home, Idaho
2002 GL1800 (Illusion Red) Non-ABS, 108k miles
Retired Air Force

"Audentes Fortuna Juvat"
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Steve F
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'03 GL1800

Re: 2002 GL1800 Hydralic pump

Postby Steve F » Thu Sep 08, 2016 3:55 pm

^^^^ What he said ^^^^
I refilled mine a while ago, and was easy job following the directions. I used hydraulic jack oil from the auto parts store, and it didn't need much. Now it starts working at 1 .
"To ride is the reason, the destination the excuse."

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PastoT
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Re: 2002 GL1800 Hydralic pump

Postby PastoT » Thu Sep 08, 2016 4:49 pm

I forgot, it is a hydraulic fluid but I used 5w fork oil as suggested in other forum documents. I don't think its in the service manual as its not considered a serviceable item. I've had no issues using fork oil, it could be steering fluid, brake fluid, jack oil... who knows for sure. Mine didn't drip fast like thinner brake fluid would have. I also found good visual guide to this process here: http://goldwing.eurekaboy.com/reservoirfill.htm

I did not flush the cylinder as the pictorial shows, there was no need to remove and disassemble the whole 9 yards, even on my ole 2002 as the fluid looked new (it was low not contaminated). I I depressed the cylinder fully with a wood dowel rod and filled through the banjo bolt connection.
Tom, in Mountain Home, Idaho
2002 GL1800 (Illusion Red) Non-ABS, 108k miles
Retired Air Force

"Audentes Fortuna Juvat"
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cihilb
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Re: 2002 GL1800 Hydralic pump

Postby cihilb » Fri Sep 09, 2016 8:49 am

The problem is that the hose has swollen slightly. As stated above, you need to refill the actuator. Not a hard job, but it is time consuming. I did this on my 2004 and never had the problem again. No need to rebuild the actuator.

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dragon2000
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Re: 2002 GL1800 Hydralic pump

Postby dragon2000 » Fri Sep 09, 2016 11:23 am

Over the summer I replaced the front springs with the Progressive Kit. I found that this really improved the handling and it was definitely stiffer.

From day one I too found that my Pump did not begin to load at Zero and only when the setting showed 7. Looking at other GW sites this apparently is the norm from day one and is attributed to the lack of oil in the Pump. I wanted to replace the OEM Hose (Rubber/Plastic) with a Braided. Looking at what was involved I figured I might as well go all the way and replace the Rear Spring with a Progressive. Believe me I am not sorry I did.

The job to remove the Spring is not hard if you have the tools and take your time. Looking at the OEM Hose its not hard to see it does not have the strength of a Braided. When I checked the Pump oil level it was definitely Low. In my case I removed the Pump completely and drained all of the oil out of it and replaced it with 5W Honda Fork Oil following the instructions in this post. My Pump now starts at Zero and now ride with a setting of 5. On the subject of the OEM Spring verses the Progressive, I read that the OEM is rated for 900 pounds while the Progressive is 1100 (GW weighs 900 lbs). Looking at the Springs side by side, the stance of the bike and how it rides after doing the conversion, IMHO it was definitely worth doing the work at the same time. Where I had to buy a couple of tools, take the Shock to my local automotive shop to compress/change the spring onto the OEM Shock, I saved a ton in labor costs and I learned a lot about my ride.

Apologize for the long post however just thought it might be beneficial to pass on my experience. With winter coming, one may also want to take advantage of the down time to do the work.


Steve

Dragon2000

Remember - You Meet the Nicest People Riding a Honda!

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