Help, Please


Information and questions on GL1800 Goldwings (2001-Present)
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woodywoodchip
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Oct 04, 2010 5:55 pm
Location: Callaway, Va
Motorcycle: 2006 Goldwing

Help, Please

Postby woodywoodchip » Mon Oct 04, 2010 6:02 pm



Hi, I have a Goldwing 1800. I thought my battery was dead, so I charged it up.
When I turn the key, I get an F1 on the display. It does not show neutral. With the clutch in I cant roll the bike back or forth or get it into neutral. Something must be stuck or there is something I forgot that I have to do ( Age has its problems)
Can you tell me what is wrong.
Thanks,
Diane



User avatar
Harp
Posts: 104
Joined: Tue Mar 30, 2010 8:30 am
Location: Cleve, OH
Motorcycle: 2014 Goldwing 1800/A

Re: Help, Please

Postby Harp » Mon Oct 04, 2010 8:41 pm

I found this on a Honda forum - hope it helps.

If you indeed have a fault, you do not have to go to the dealer to get the information about the fault, you can read the codes yourself---here's how to read it, and what the codes mean:

If FI (Fault Indicator) light comes on pull over but DO NOT shut bike off. Put in neutral and put side stand down, RPM’s below 1500. This signals the ECM to send the error code to the FI light. Count the number of long and short flashes. This will give you the error code.

If you shut the bike off the error code is lost - sort of. It will be retained in the ECM but it is harder to get out. If the bike stops and the will not restart you can get the FI light to flash the error code by cranking the engine for 10 seconds. The FI light will then flash the error code.

Long Blink = 10 Short Blink = 1
i.e. long long long short short short = 33 check error code 33

Number of MIL blinks .Symptoms .Cause

0 No blinks • Engine does not start

• Open circuit in the power input and ground wires of the ECM: • Faulty bank angle sensor
• Open circuit in bank angle sensor related wires: • Faulty FI IGN relay: • Open circuit in FI IGN relay related wires
• Faulty engine stop switch: • Open circuit in engine stop switch related wires: • Faulty ECM: • Blown FI IGN fuse (20 A)
• Blown ST. KILL fuse (10 A):

0 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty combination meter: • Faulty ECM


0 Stays lit • Engine operates normally
• Short circuit in service check connector wire: • Short circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty ECM


1 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected MAP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in MAP sensor wire: • Faulty MAP sensor


7 Blinks • Hard to start at a low temperature (ECM controls using preset value; coolant temperature: 85° C/185° F)
• Loose or poorly connected ECT sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in ECT sensor wire: • Faulty ECT sensor


8 Blinks • Poor engine response when operating the throttle quickly (ECM controls using preset value; throttle opening: 0° )
• Loose or poorly connected TP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty TP sensor


9 Blinks • Engine operates normally (ECM controls using preset value; intake air temperature: 28° C/82° F)
• Loose or poorly connected IAT sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty IAT sensor


10 Blinks • Engine operates normally at low altitude
• Engine idles roughly at a high altitude (ECM controls using preset value; barometric pressure: 760 mm Hg/1,013 hPa)
• Loose or poorly connected BARO sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in BARO sensor wire: • Faulty BARO sensor


11 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected vehicle speed sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in vehicle speed sensor wire: • Faulty vehicle speed sensor


12 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 1 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 1 injector wire: • Faulty No. 1 injector


13 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 2 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 2 injector wire: • Faulty No. 2 injector


14 No blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 3 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 3 injector wire: • Faulty No. 3 injector


15 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 4 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 4 injector wire: • Faulty No. 4 injector



16 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 5 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 5 injector wire: • Faulty No. 5 injector


17 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 6 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 6 injector wire: • Faulty No. 6 injector


18 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected camshaft position sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in camshaft position sensor wire: • Faulty camshaft position sensor


19 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected ignition pulse generator connector:
• Open or short circuit in ignition pulse generator wire: • Faulty ignition pulse generator


21 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor


22 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor


23 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor


24 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor


25 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected right knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in right knock sensor wire: • Faulty right knock sensor


26 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected left knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in left knock sensor wire: • Faulty left knock sensor

29 Blinks • Engine stalls, hard to start, rough idling
• Loose or poorly connected idle air control (IAC) valve connector: • Open or short circuit in IAC valve wire: • Faulty idle air control valve


33 Blinks • ECM does not hold the self diagnostic data
• Faulty E2-PROM in ECM • Engine operates normally


41 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected connector in gear position switch related circuits
• Open or short circuit in gear position switch wires: • Faulty gear position switch: • Faulty clutch switch: • Faulty side stand switch

woodywoodchip
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Oct 04, 2010 5:55 pm
Location: Callaway, Va
Motorcycle: 2006 Goldwing

Re: Help, Please

Postby woodywoodchip » Tue Oct 05, 2010 8:09 am

Thanks
I'll check this out

Dola Compton
Posts: 24
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2010 11:19 am
Location: Ocklawaha, FL
Motorcycle: 2006 GL1800 Navi

Re: Help, Please

Postby Dola Compton » Tue Oct 05, 2010 2:54 pm

Are you sure it's not in reverse?? Dola.

woodywoodchip
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Oct 04, 2010 5:55 pm
Location: Callaway, Va
Motorcycle: 2006 Goldwing

Re: Help, Please

Postby woodywoodchip » Tue Oct 05, 2010 4:51 pm

Dola, Yes, I believe it is in reverse, but with the battery dying all the time, I cant get it power to it to disengage the reverse.
Now I need to figure out why the battery keeps dying. Its not that old.

User avatar
Keyboard
Posts: 63
Joined: Mon Apr 26, 2010 8:59 am
Location: Owings Mills, MD
Motorcycle: 2010 GL1800

Re: Help, Please

Postby Keyboard » Tue Oct 05, 2010 7:31 pm

Have you added any electrical accessories to the bike? If so, one of those accessories my be drawing power all the time if connected to something that is always hot even when the bike is shut off. That will drain the battery.

As far as reverse goes ... does the reverse button toggle between on and off, or is it stuck in the on position? If stuck in the on position, try to flick it (instead of pressing it) to see if it will free up. If that doesn't work, then you may have to dismantle the right handlebar control to get to the switch.

I'm not sure if this helps, but it may trigger some other ideas to try.
My Bike Collection:
2010 Gold Wing + 2004 Rune, 2011 R1200RT, & 2011 Road King Classic

Dola Compton
Posts: 24
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2010 11:19 am
Location: Ocklawaha, FL
Motorcycle: 2006 GL1800 Navi

Re: Help, Please

Postby Dola Compton » Wed Oct 06, 2010 4:02 pm

Try with a battery charger attached. Are you sure the battery is good?? Just cause it's new dosen't mean it's good. Dola.

Dola Compton
Posts: 24
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2010 11:19 am
Location: Ocklawaha, FL
Motorcycle: 2006 GL1800 Navi

Re: Help, Please

Postby Dola Compton » Wed Oct 06, 2010 4:07 pm

Try spraying contact cleaner around the reverse button. D.

expplane
Posts: 37
Joined: Tue Aug 24, 2010 6:23 pm
Location: Monterey, Ca
Motorcycle: Goldwing 2008

Re: Help, Please

Postby expplane » Sun Oct 10, 2010 8:23 pm

Not being sarcastic but the easiest fix is to have it towed to the nearest Honda dealer and have them fix it. Faster, more $$$ but you will be riding sooner. Life is too short anyway.
Wayne

Bouvier1
Posts: 106
Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2010 4:09 pm
Location: United Kingdom
Motorcycle: 2007 Gl 1800A

Re: Help, Please

Postby Bouvier1 » Mon Oct 11, 2010 6:44 am

This may sound silly but try cleaning the selector arm as it may be clogged with dirt. I was having similar trouble with a 2001 model and was even prepared to strip every thing down. Luckily my son (clever devil) decided to look and found the problem.
The result was clear changing and not sticking in gear - only downfall to it was that I had to replace the little rubber seal as taking the dirt of had damaged it. You will have to strip the gear lever off to get at it, along with all the other gubbings surrounding but it is better then paying out a lot of money if it works.

Bouvier1

User avatar
gogs11uk
Posts: 53
Joined: Sat Sep 05, 2009 10:23 am
Location: Inverness, Scotland
Motorcycle: GL1800
CBR600

Re: Help, Please

Postby gogs11uk » Mon Oct 11, 2010 12:55 pm

I just replaced the batery on my 02 1800. It had a new battery fitted around December last year but this past couple of weeks has been causing me all sorts of problems. Not starting being the mian problem but the clock losing time as well. I would charge the batery with an optimiser but it would only hold the charge a couple of days and I was back with a non starting bike. It would turn the engine over very slowlybut not enough power to start it as well. Went and bought a replacement today so hopefully that is it fixed. Might be worth taking the hit on a new battery m8. Remember the old saying, cheap doesn't mean quality.




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