Cruise Control Switch sticks ON - 1800GL


Information and questions on GL1800 Goldwings (2001-Present)
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cmwagner
Posts: 41
Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2010 11:39 pm
Location: Johannesburg
Motorcycle: 2005 Goldwing 1800GL

Cruise Control Switch sticks ON - 1800GL

Postby cmwagner » Sun Jun 19, 2011 11:34 am



Hi

I have the 1800 GL 2005 Model. Can anyone assist me with this problem please. I have read plenty of Solutions to the Cruise Control Switch sticking in the ON position. I think reading everyones comments it looks like I need to remove the switch mechanism, on the handle bar, and then spray electronic cleaner into the actual switch itself, and not into the button when it is still on the handlebar. I am concerned about removing the Switch mechanism from the Handlebar as it hosts the Cruise Control ON/OFF, Starter, and reverse switches. Has anyone got a diagram of the Switch mechanism and how I need to remove it from the handlebar, as well as what I need to be cautious of with when removing it, (like springs/plates etc) the more info I can get the better.

Thanks in advance

Colin



mbrown
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Joined: Fri Jul 24, 2009 10:55 am
Location: Harrisburg, NC

Re: Cruise Control Switch sticks ON - 1800GL

Postby mbrown » Fri Jul 01, 2011 1:35 pm

Spray WD40 in the switches and work them a little.
Mike Brown
Harrisburg NC
IBA #35455

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FlyBoy2121
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Motorcycle: Honda GoldWing
Gl 1800 2003

Re: Cruise Control Switch sticks ON - 1800GL

Postby FlyBoy2121 » Fri Jul 01, 2011 2:15 pm

I cmwagne

W40's good, and to contact cleaner

FlyBoy2121

salyzyn
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Motorcycle: 2004 GL1800

A sticky situation ...

Postby salyzyn » Fri Jul 01, 2011 2:34 pm

Just to be a contrarian voice to the choir? ...

Myself, not a fan of 'WD40 as Contact Cleaner' or when used to flush-out quality silicon grease, always seem to be back in there within a year, gunked. But I do attest that a spray of WD40 or any of the other 'magic' spray oils/solvents works for instant gratification. However, a good contact and mechanism cleaning should last as long as if the switch were like new IMHO. Besides, and this is fortunate for the contacts themselves, the switch is somewhat sealed from the elements on these motorbykes, not much can come in from the front into the switch by design.

The best cleaning that these switches can get is use, work the switch, disuse is their enemy. I would do this *before* resorting to WD40. The same could be said of the push-on-push-off return-retention mechanics of the switch, unless it is damaged or gunked up. Flushing out the gunk that has stiffened up the mechanism also means you flushed out the silicon grease that protects the plastic and rubber components.

If you really need to get in there, it is a simple task, but just troublesome enough to rationalize doing things right. Two screws from underneath, tease the pieces apart, beware of the throttle cables. You could loosen the throttle cables and remove them if you want for clearances, but no need to be that brave IMHO. A screw inside, and a clamp, holds one of the halves in-place, but no need to remove that either if you plan on just spraying (the last dealer mechanic that got that deep into this cluster left the screw jamming my reverse switch <sigh>). With the pieces split apart only a small amount, you can get a nice direct spray of self-drying contact cleaner into the switch. See about using a q-tip to renew some light silicon grease on the return-retention mechanism and other switch mechanicals; then you are done.

As an aside for contact problems: If I could get into the switch, I'd burnish the contacts with normal bond paper (soft, yet abrasive enough to polish the contact surfaces) instead of chemical contact cleaner. Oily substances always attract dirt in time for the contacts ... I know of what I speak, I have dealt with the Devil. Darth Lucas electrics on a Classic Jaguar :lol: that still is a daily driver with all (most :roll:) electrics still functional even though many decades old. I always find care and attention results in a longer time before I have to return. I have resisted the urge to use any of the magic oil/solvents and it has paid off over time.

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Re: Cruise Control Switch sticks ON - 1800GL

Postby WingAdmin » Fri Jul 01, 2011 2:54 pm

Not contrarian at all...I agree with you 100%. WD-40 is NOT a contact cleaner, and while it may clean out the dirt that is causing your electrical problems, giving you instant relief, it leaves behind an oily coating that quickly attracts more dust and dirt, causing the problem to quickly return.

IF the problem is dirty switch contacts, the best thing to use is CONTACT CLEANER - it leaves behind no residue. If you have some, brake cleaner will also work - it's a solvent that leaves no residue.

However, the common problem with the GL1800 switches has nothing to do with the electrical contacts - it's the sides of the buttons binding up against the sides of the opening that the button fits through. And for this, WD-40 is the perfect solution - it lubricates this area, relieving the binding, and leaves behind an oily coating that continues to lubricate the button, so that it doesn't stick "down" when pressed anymore.

cmwagner
Posts: 41
Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2010 11:39 pm
Location: Johannesburg
Motorcycle: 2005 Goldwing 1800GL

Re: Cruise Control Switch sticks ON - 1800GL

Postby cmwagner » Sat Jul 02, 2011 1:25 pm

:D Wow - Thanks to all for all the information, unfortunately here in Deep Down South Africa we don't get WD-40 but I think the equivalent is Q-20, it is also a multi use Spray lubricant etc, however a friend of mine brought home a tin of Mr McKenic 9-in-1 Technology Oil. This is a spray can with a straw like nozzle. On the tin it states the following. Instant Release, Prevents Shortcircuit, Non-Flammable, Cleans Motor, Loosens Rust, Lubricates, Anti-Rust, Cleans Stubborn Stains and Withstands Temperature. Has anyone ever heard or seen this product? if so is this as good as WD-40?

Sorry on the tin it states - Made in Singapore and Manufactured by Isochem

Thanks again for all the info

Colin

salyzyn
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Re: A sticky situation ...

Postby salyzyn » Sat Jul 02, 2011 1:57 pm

salyzyn wrote:But I do attest that a spray of WD40 or any of the other 'magic' spray oils/solvents works for instant gratification.
cmwagner wrote:Mr McKenic 9-in-1 Technology Oil. This is a spray can with a straw like nozzle. On the tin it states the following. Instant Release, Prevents Shortcircuit, Non-Flammable, Cleans Motor, Loosens Rust, Lubricates, Anti-Rust, Cleans Stubborn Stains and Withstands Temperature. Has anyone ever heard or seen this product? if so is this as good as WD-40?
It forgot to state that it can be used to remove blood stains from your driveway and kills the queen ant so that the hive will never return :-)

This product is one of the 'magic' spray oils/solvents I referred to. That stuff is better at clearing out rust than WD-40, but resides in the same class of substances. Yes, it can lubricate the shaft of the switch or the push-on-push-off retention mechanism.

cmwagner
Posts: 41
Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2010 11:39 pm
Location: Johannesburg
Motorcycle: 2005 Goldwing 1800GL

Re: Cruise Control Switch sticks ON - 1800GL

Postby cmwagner » Tue Jul 05, 2011 2:24 pm

Cool Humour Salyzyn, but thanks for all the information. I tried squirting the Mr MKanic (or however you spell it) into the thumb switch, and VOILA it popped out after depressing it maybe three times, I then went for a ride to test my Cruise and it stuck in again the first time I used it on the Freeway, and now won't budge.

I guess I need to Bite the Bullet and open it up, and hope like Hell that nothing jumps at me, and clean it properly, like advised by all.

Thanks again to everyone that answered me on this Topic, I will Post a Reply after I have done the operation and advise.

Regards

Colin - South Africa




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