SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL


Information and questions on GL1800 Goldwings (2001-Present)
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jbowen52
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Re: SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL

Post by jbowen52 » Thu Mar 31, 2016 6:22 pm



Great info here on oil and filters. I just completed my first oil change at 25,500 miles (it had 24,500 when I bought it) with Rotella T6 and the SuperTech ST6607. I was looking for the longer ST7317 just on the basis of greater filtering surface, but the store didn't have it. I removed a Honda brand filter that was also the short version, so hopefully no problems. First thing I noticed on the test ride was that the transmission seems to shift smoother and easier than before. It probably had a dealer oil change so probably conventional oil, I don't know but the change in shifting was noticeable. It was always a little clunky going first to second, it seems somewhat smoother now. Doing some more miles will confirm it. Thanks for all the info.


Last edited by jbowen52 on Thu Mar 31, 2016 10:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Busdriver54
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Re: SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL

Post by Busdriver54 » Thu Mar 31, 2016 8:19 pm

Hi, jbowen,
Just one question about rosella T6. What is the viscosity? 10w30 or 10w40 or what.
Busdriver.

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Re: SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL

Post by jbowen52 » Thu Mar 31, 2016 8:38 pm

The only version I could find of Rotella T6 Synthetic is 5W40. A lot of people on the forum have indicated good results with it.

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Re: SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL

Post by 2008retiredplb » Fri Apr 01, 2016 7:06 am

Just a note to remember if you are riding in cooler climates: in 2009 Honda changed the oil specs for the GL1800 because of people having trouble with starting their bikes. I personally had this problem a couple of years ago and tested it out on my own. When the temp got down to, or below 50° F, the starter would not engage to turn the engine over on the first and sometimes the second try. I was using AmsOil 10W40 full synthetic motorcycle oil. Honda said you need to be using 10W30 oil. So I switched to Honda 10W30 for one oil change and as soon as I did the problem went away. So to double check it I went back to AmsOil 10W40 in my next change and the problem came back. Switched back to AmsOil 10W30 full synthetic motorcycle oil. Have had no problems since.
The way Honda states it in the owners manual it doesn't make it very clear what weight oil to use in cooler climates.

So if you are using heaver weight oil than 10W30 and your starter gives you problems where the starter turns but will not turn the engine over, this could be the problem.
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Re: SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL

Post by jbowen52 » Fri Apr 01, 2016 8:22 am

Good tip 2008retiredplb! I had followed your discussion with viking about the starter issue. I don't know what was in my bike when I bought it. The dealer had apparently changed the oil and if I would guess, it was probably a 10W40. The shifting improved noticeably as soon as I changed to the Rotella T6. As you can note, I live in Florida so cold weather riding is seldom an issue and I have never had a starter issue with my 2010 GW. May have just been lucky or the problem was discovered by Honda and they changed something for 2010 on. Seems very strange that the only starter clutch issues were reported on 2009 models. So far no starter issues with the Rotella. I suspect the lower cold 5W40 viscosity may help. After I take a long ride and get that oil up to temp, if I have a problem, I will advise.

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Re: SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL

Post by WINGER3 » Fri Apr 01, 2016 2:54 pm

I run with Rotella T6 in my GL1800 and on a lot of my trips in the morning are in mid 40s and have never had a starter problem, so I assume the 5W allows it to start cold and the syn. 40 is not a problem hot. Ride safe. :mrgreen:
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Re: SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL

Post by 2008retiredplb » Fri Apr 01, 2016 3:15 pm

Glad to see some people haven't had any problems. I just know the problems I had and how Honda addressed that problem. They told me they would not cover changing the starter or starter clutch if they could not find a problem with it. That is a very expensive teardown that I would have had to pay for if nothing was found. Decided it wasn't that big a problem yet. If it showed up later I will have some serious words for Honda since the problem was addressed while under warranty.
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Re: SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL

Post by Paulcf » Mon Aug 22, 2016 3:00 pm

I live and ride in a cold environment. Even in the summer, it is cool and few days get over 80F. But I do tour south and encounter the heat. Synthetic m/c oil here is now $29.00/litre plus tax and enviro fees. Nuts to this! So I try to shop around and order online. Next is the viscosity...so to take control of this matter, I mix 10W-30 and 10W-40 equally (brand, type and volume) to end up with, I guess, 10W-35? LOL! I only use the genuine Honda oil filters ($20 each here). I tried the K&N once with the nut on the end, it was useless and 17mm wrench and socket stripped the end nut. Since it doesn't have those flanges on it, I could not grip it with the Wingstuff oil filter removal tool either!
Fortunately I have a special oil filter removal tool and got it off. Only and last time with non Honda OEM oil filter. Maximum mileage between changes with synthetic is 5,000 miles and it was still looking very clear/clean! But out it goes, don't want to encounter shearing failure. Since most of my riding is on the highway, good cooling, minimal shifting, it works fine and I believe the synthetic with my special viscosity of 10W-35 works just fine for when I go riding with 30-40F degree days and into the USA with 90-103F days.
I DO wonder if the ethanol gasoline in the USA is detrimental to engine oil's ability to protect and lubricate? I do know it is bad for leaving in an engine/tank for extended periods of time (without a fuel stabilizer). I also have heard many complain about a loss of power with ethanol fuel. Hmmm. I can live with a bit less power (GL1800 has enough!) but possible oil damage is worrisome.

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Re: SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL

Post by themainviking » Mon Aug 22, 2016 6:49 pm

I am curious, Paulcf, what brand of synthetic you found that is $29 a liter. That has got to be the priciest oil I have ever heard of. I would not be using it, that is for sure. As far as filters go, you cannot go wrong using Honda's own. If it falls apart, I would think Honda would have to come good for it. With your mixing of viscosities to get to 10W35, I hope you are using the same brand of oil for both the 30 and 40 weights. There is no telling what additives are in oils, and to mix varying brands could be detrimental to service quality and life. Changing at 5,000 miles, if you do that in a single season, it probably does not matter if you use synthetic or dinosaur. Oil related problems in engines are pretty much never because of the oil, but because there was none or not enough.
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Re: SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL

Post by jbowen52 » Tue Aug 23, 2016 10:58 am

For any of you running Rotella in your GW. I just found out that Shell is offering a $5 rebate for a gallon of Rotella T6. It's already a pretty good deal and this gets you another $5.
http://rotella.shell.com/coupons-rebate ... allon.html

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Re: SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL

Post by Rwilkerson » Tue Mar 07, 2017 12:40 am

The choice was simple Mobil 1 T racing oil full syn. 10/40 Hot shifts better, engine runs smooth and used the mobil 1 filter just to back it up. You can go round and round but there is nothing better. Went with the 40 as I live in AZ and temps are well over 100 many days a year.

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Re: SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL

Post by Luvenet47 » Tue Sep 05, 2017 9:40 pm

I thought Rotella was designed for heavy truck engines. No one mentioned Valvoleine. It kinda looks like every oil has it's own fan club. Is there any scientific evidence to support one over another?
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Re: SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL

Post by themainviking » Wed Sep 06, 2017 6:42 am

The original Rotella was designed for heavy truck engines. When they brought out Rotella T6 synthetic, they expanded their use list, and all vehicles can find a Rotella T6, including motorcycles. Yes there is all kinds of scientific evidence showing that synthetics are a better choice than dino oils. Most brochures contain some of the companies scientific data. Most of the testing though, with oils, that people can wrap their heads around, are physical, such as wear ball tests to show that synthetics have better wear and shear properties than dino oils. There are exceptions. Super refined, so called, super slippery dino oils perform as well as synthetics, but if you can find them, they are the same price, and break down sooner, so still I would choose synthetics.

One thing I would mention is that SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) came out with a new ruling a few years back, which does make it difficult to know if you are getting a true synthetic or not. If it says 100% synthetic on the bottle, it must be 100% synthetic. If it says full synthetic, it may have most or part dino oil with synthetic additives. Valvoline may fall into this later category.
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Re: SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL

Post by Luvenet47 » Wed Sep 06, 2017 7:31 am

Thanks on the oil info. Haven't broken the seal on the oil yet. Gonna take ot back and get Rotella.
Where does one get a magnetic pan plug? Is that a dealer item? Definitely will go with that.
Luvenet

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Re: SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL

Post by themainviking » Wed Sep 06, 2017 12:11 pm

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Re: SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL

Post by Luvenet47 » Fri Sep 08, 2017 8:02 am

Hey viking, thanks for the info on the magnetic plug. I ordered one.
But as for the website, I can't hardly express my excitement to see their discount policy. 1% off when you spend $500! Wow! What a motivator. Now if I can just think of $493.50 more stuff to buy! Ooraw!
Luvenet

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Re: SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL

Post by Luvenet47 » Fri Sep 08, 2017 8:08 am

Oops! I hit the ! mark to see what it is. Now I know...sorry.
Does Rotella T6 indicate the weight of the oil? Would that be 10w-30?
Luvenet

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Re: SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL

Post by themainviking » Sun Sep 10, 2017 2:38 pm

10W30 or 10W40 depending on how hot is is where you ride. This time of year in NC, I would think 10W30 would be adequate. In summer, maybe go to a 10W40 if riding daytime in 90 degree plus temps.
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Re: SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL

Post by Luvenet47 » Sun Sep 10, 2017 8:35 pm

I don't think the NC temperature is that important when choosing 10-30 or 10-40. Now if we're talking Alaska and Arizona I would give it serious consideration. I'm more concerned with how it would affect shifting if at all. I've gathered from other posts that it can/does. Opinion or fact is a tough call.
Open to feedback - fact or opinion . 😉
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Re: SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL

Post by themainviking » Mon Sep 11, 2017 6:41 am

10W40 will ease the sound of your shifting a touch better than 10W30, but I would not use that as a consideration of which weight to use. Your owners manual says either, and for that reason, I personally would use the 10W40. If nothing else, I like the "idea" that it stays where it needs to be a bit better. Probably my imagination, as the 10 number and the 30 or 40 numbers are determined at much higher and lower temperatures than you will be operating your motorcycle, probably. There is really not a terrific lot of difference between the two formulations. We, with 2009 bikes, however, did find that the sprague clutch would not engage first time/every time when the temps got down below about 40 degrees, so the starter would just give a spinning sound the first time starting was attempted on real cool days. Changing to 10W30 corrected that. The 2009 models, as far as I have heard are the only ones to have been affected by this, and only a limited few of them. This discussion can be found in a different thread here on this forum. I ultimately went back to 10W40 on my bike because I had a case and a half of it here. I just pay attention when it is cold and if the starter does not engage, I release the key immediately, wait a couple seconds for the spin to stop, and try again. It usually clicks in by the second, and always by the third attempt, and all of this, only when it is getting to the "almost too cold to ride anyway" spot on the thermometer. Frost can form, by the way, on the roadway portion, of bridges and overpasses, at 39 degrees F, or 3 degrees C if humidity conditions are right. Also on bike covers in campgrounds, :lol: :lol: If you got any fog, and it is getting below 40 F, watch for it.
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Re: SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL

Post by Luvenet47 » Mon Sep 11, 2017 8:15 am

Wow! What a boatload if info. Thanks. What about the brand? Have you noticed any difference there? I can't find Amzoil, which seems to be a favorite.
Luvenet

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Re: SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL

Post by themainviking » Mon Sep 11, 2017 8:43 pm

Luvenet47 wrote:
Mon Sep 11, 2017 8:15 am
Wow! What a boatload if info. Thanks. What about the brand? Have you noticed any difference there? I can't find Amzoil, which seems to be a favorite.
You should be able to find some dealers here:

https://www.google.ca/search?rls=com.mi ... 5180445593

And you can order from my web site, and also directly from Amsoil through their online ordering system. Try the above link first, and then if that won't work for you, contact me by replying in this thread again and I will give you the info for online ordering. Amsoil frowns on us Canadians selling Amsoil to their U.S. clients when they have dealers within the state, but it can be done in a pinch.

In fact, you have a dealer, Robert Jackson, right there in Denver NC with this web site:

http://smsoilbob.myamsoil.com
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Re: SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL

Post by Luvenet47 » Mon Sep 11, 2017 9:02 pm

The viking pulls through again. Thanks man. What part of Canada are you from? My Grandfather was from just south of Montreal.
Luvenet

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Re: SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL

Post by themainviking » Tue Sep 12, 2017 6:20 am

Luvenet47 wrote:
Mon Sep 11, 2017 9:02 pm
What part of Canada are you from? My Grandfather was from just south of Montreal.
I live about 600 miles from where your grandfather lived, to the west of, but I had my military training right around where your grandfather lived... or at least a bit of it. Probably your grandfather was still in high school at that time.... :lol: However, I am not from this area. I am from western Canada, Calgary to be exact.
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Luvenet47
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Re: SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL

Post by Luvenet47 » Tue Sep 12, 2017 7:23 am

You would have to be about 150 years old for my grandfather to have been in high school then. 😉


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