Front fork seals

[gregb]

Well, my left front fork seal gave up yesterday. Reading thru this forum, it sounds like that is not too unusual. Being a DIY, I was wondering if I have to take the fork completely off to replace the seals? And, any other advise on this problem would be appreciated. My bike is a 2003 GL1800. Thanks, Greg.

[keithg64]

Yup you need to take the forks completly off. I have not done a 1800 but I have done a 1500.

[frostypop]

i had the front fork seal replaced last year by my mechanic. and then again this year because i blew left one out. they told me that they had to start using the honda seals because they were having problems with the aftermarket ones leaking.

[keithg64]

A couple of years ago I replace the ones on my 1100 and intead of useing aftermarket I used OEM and had great luck with them. However I did used aftermarket on my CR250 several years ago with great outcome otherwise.

[Red Ron]

Ever notice how it is usually the left one that goes? Most say it is because of the anti dive forcing the seal on that side to absorb more of the shock therefore it is supposedly another reason for disableing it.

[frostypop]

the right front fork seal is the one that was leaking first. i think the reason i blew the left one was because i hit a pot the size of a pickup hood and about a foot deep at 30mph with the brakes still being applied to get slowed down..

[jfrizby]

same thing happened to me today on my '01 Wing..... same fork.... have the brakes loose and the front tire off I too am a DIY but am at a stand still cause i don't want to mess anything up. Will be ordering re-seal kit from local honda shop tomorrow but need further instructions.... any help would be tremendously appreciated.

[Bouvier1]

I have recently replaced the fork seals on my 2001 Gl1800. This is quite an easy thing to do. After removing the mudguard etc wheel and brakes (wrap a cloth around the brake pipe near to the connector on the left fork and pinch the pipe with a set of grips - this prevents having to completely replace all the brake oil) the right does not need this proceedure. Remove the bit of plastic covering the top of the forks - there are two small screws holding it in position and to get at them simply remove the plastic cover surrounding the ignition lock then use a long handled screwdriver to get at them (no need to strip the top of the bike down as suggested in the books). I then slackened the top securing bolt (which holds the fork in position) and then the top nut on the fork (1)(do not take it off altogether at this stage), I also released the lower fixing bolt(2) which is at the lower end of the fork, where the wheel spindle slides in, (doing it this way stops you having to put the forks into a vice etc). I then released the lower two securing bolts (located just below the top securing bolt) and slid the fork out. Drain off the majority of the oil by removing the fixing bolt at the bottom of the fork and also by removing the top nut - there is some pressure at this stage but not enough to make the bolt fly away (unlike a 1500)j then pump the fork. Once the oil is out remove the metal tube and spring and washer in top of the fork then using the top of the fork simply pull against the lower part ( a couple of hard pulls usually gets it out). I would suggest that the top and bottom bushes are replaced at the same time (made this mistake once before and didn't take long for the seals to go again). The replacement is obviously the opposite proceedure just make sure that (1) and (2) are hand tightened to revent the oil coming out. When the forks are secured by the lower securing bolts the tighten to the required torque.
The right and left forks have different internals but the proceedure is the same. It takes about an hour at most to do both sides once the front wheel etc is out of the way. Hope this helps.

[Ghostman]

If you do the seals take the time to do the bushings and you'll notice a big difference. When you change the oil you'll see a whole bunch of gunk at the bottom of the tubes that needs to be cleaned out from the bushings wearing. Also when I did mine I removed my anti dive and flushed it out with fresh fork oil.

[SteelBill]

I ride a 04 Goldwing.It's in the shop now because my left fork seal looked bent.They tried to tell me I need need forks until I told them the parts wear out but the metal doesn't.So they are flushing the oil and replacing both seals.My question is has Honda address this problem ? If it's a common problem because of the linked braking system can we get Honda to do something about it ?

[Bouvier1]

I think they could certainly do with a heavier seal if nothing else, after all the seal is the same as one one a CBR1100 (as are the brakes), the weight alone must mean it needs it. I rode my 2001 bike every day for commuting to work etc all year round and the fork did not give up until the bike was 8yrs old, so I really mustn't complain. I do feel that the majority of the problems with the seals is that most owners only use their bikes for a couple of days a week and not at all during the winter (especially in colder climes). The seals may not be worn but will have slightly seized and the movement breaks this allowing oil to escape.
Just a thought.

[tmstowe]

When I had my fork seals replaced last year (yep - left one was leaking!), I also switched the springs for the Progressive springs.

They seem to help the handling of the bike (at least for me they were an improvement). I noticed a lot less wobble (at any speed) on the front end.

Just something to think about while you are working on the forks.

[gregb]

THE SEALS ARE REPLACED AND I'M ON THE ROAD AGAIN. AHHHH, SUMMER IN OREGON IS GREAT FOR RIDING! GREG

[mosesmcrae]

I have recently replaced the fork seals on my 2001 Gl1800. This is quite an easy thing to do. After removing the mudguard etc wheel and brakes (wrap a cloth around the brake pipe near to the connector on the left fork and pinch the pipe with a set of grips - this prevents having to completely replace all the brake oil) the right does not need this proceedure. Remove the bit of plastic covering the top of the forks - there are two small screws holding it in position and to get at them simply remove the plastic cover surrounding the ignition lock then use a long handled screwdriver to get at them (no need to strip the top of the bike down as suggested in the books). I then slackened the top securing bolt (which holds the fork in position) and then the top nut on the fork (1)(do not take it off altogether at this stage), I also released the lower fixing bolt(2) which is at the lower end of the fork, where the wheel spindle slides in, (doing it this way stops you having to put the forks into a vice etc). I then released the lower two securing bolts (located just below the top securing bolt) and slid the fork out. Drain off the majority of the oil by removing the fixing bolt at the bottom of the fork and also by removing the top nut - there is some pressure at this stage but not enough to make the bolt fly away (unlike a 1500)j then pump the fork. Once the oil is out remove the metal tube and spring and washer in top of the fork then using the top of the fork simply pull against the lower part ( a couple of hard pulls usually gets it out). I would suggest that the top and bottom bushes are replaced at the same time (made this mistake once before and didn't take long for the seals to go again). The replacement is obviously the opposite proceedure just make sure that (1) and (2) are hand tightened to revent the oil coming out. When the forks are secured by the lower securing bolts the tighten to the required torque.
The right and left forks have different internals but the proceedure is the same. It takes about an hour at most to do both sides once the front wheel etc is out of the way. Hope this helps.

I just installed Progressive fork springs. The instructions mention preload and some chart listing different bikes, but there is no chart included with the instructions. I went on their website and couldn't find it either. My question is, are these Progressive springs truly drop in for a 2001 Goldwing or is there some adjustment concerning spacers required?

Thanks,
Mosesmcrae

[mosesmcrae]

I got a reply from the Progressive people. The fork springs are truly drop in. Keep the same stock spacer. I also found a homemade seal driver. It is a 1 1/2" PVC coupling with the inside ring ground out. A 2" coupling slides over that and then a piece of 2" PVC pipe long enough to slide over the tube and drive the seal into place.

[wingrider.steve]

I ride a 04 Goldwing.It's in the shop now because my left fork seal looked bent.They tried to tell me I need need forks until I told them the parts wear out but the metal doesn't.So they are flushing the oil and replacing both seals.My question is has Honda address this problem ? If it's a common problem because of the linked braking system can we get Honda to do something about it ?

From the '06 GL1800 onwards the left fork has an extra seal, just below the existing fork seal and it does seem to make a difference. The extra seal has not eliminated the problem but it has definitely reduced the chances of blowing the left seal.

[flash2002]

If youre left seal is leaking there's a good chance it's the anti dive causing the leak. Most people cancel the anti dive, you could get a kit for that on E-BAY. If your going to change the seals, maybe had a few bucks and change the springs.

[winger05]

Forget the stock oil seal replacement ritual and go with the new Monotube progressive gas shock for the front forks. No more leaking seals and improved ride and handling. To me, this is a no brainer. I only have 13000 mi. on my O5 wing and I noticed the right fork leaking again (3rd time). I was paying my local dealer around $300.00 each time to replace both seals. I now have the monotube set-up and love it with no more leaks!!. They also come with a limited lifetime warranty. jcmotors.com is running a summer special for $244.00 a set (see link below). This is about $100.00 off reg. price.

Just my .02

http://www.jcmotors.com/p-31230-progres ... 9v205iwXnp

http://www.progressivesuspension.com/pd ... 20Inst.pdf

[mosesmcrae]

This monotubes fits down in the tube And no longer requires oil in the strut? My top tube is becoming pitted and I think that may be contributing to the leakage.

[dragon2000]

If youre left seal is leaking there's a good chance it's the anti dive causing the leak. Most people cancel the anti dive, you could get a kit for that on E-BAY. If your going to change the seals, maybe had a few bucks and change the springs.

I couldn't agree more. If everything is apart it would be the best time to install Progressive Springs. I did this when I changed the oil on my Valyrie.

Steve

[Red Ron]

If youre left seal is leaking there's a good chance it's the anti dive causing the leak. Most people cancel the anti dive, you could get a kit for that on E-BAY. If your going to change the seals, maybe had a few bucks and change the springs.

I couldn't agree more. If everything is apart it would be the best time to install Progressive Springs. I did this when I changed the oil on my Valyrie.

Steve

Many (myself included) drill a 7/32 inch hole in a nickel and place between the two halves of the antidive.

[rec45]

This monotubes fits down in the tube And no longer requires oil in the strut? My top tube is becoming pitted and I think that may be contributing to the leakage.

I have the monotubes in my 07. There is oil in the forks, just not as much as the stock setup. There is still the possibility of a leak.

[mosesmcrae]

Thanks for that info about there still being oil. Has anyone found a cure for rust pitted tubes?

[flash2002]

For the pitted tubes, you can always install fork boots. Just grease the tube and slip these on, should work.

http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Equipme ... _boots.htm

[rstoops1]

I found a shim on ebay that disables the anti-dive and is supposed to eliminate the problem of blowing the left fork seal. I had to replace the seal on the left fork twice because of sharp impact with chuck holes. Since I installed this shim I haven't had a problem. The price is under $20.00 and installation is simple. The most time consuming part of the job is removing and replacing the plastic to get to the fork.