Bouvier1 wrote:I have recently replaced the fork seals on my 2001 Gl1800. This is quite an easy thing to do. After removing the mudguard etc wheel and brakes (wrap a cloth around the brake pipe near to the connector on the left fork and pinch the pipe with a set of grips - this prevents having to completely replace all the brake oil) the right does not need this proceedure. Remove the bit of plastic covering the top of the forks - there are two small screws holding it in position and to get at them simply remove the plastic cover surrounding the ignition lock then use a long handled screwdriver to get at them (no need to strip the top of the bike down as suggested in the books). I then slackened the top securing bolt (which holds the fork in position) and then the top nut on the fork (1)(do not take it off altogether at this stage), I also released the lower fixing bolt(2) which is at the lower end of the fork, where the wheel spindle slides in, (doing it this way stops you having to put the forks into a vice etc). I then released the lower two securing bolts (located just below the top securing bolt) and slid the fork out. Drain off the majority of the oil by removing the fixing bolt at the bottom of the fork and also by removing the top nut - there is some pressure at this stage but not enough to make the bolt fly away (unlike a 1500)j then pump the fork. Once the oil is out remove the metal tube and spring and washer in top of the fork then using the top of the fork simply pull against the lower part ( a couple of hard pulls usually gets it out). I would suggest that the top and bottom bushes are replaced at the same time (made this mistake once before and didn't take long for the seals to go again). The replacement is obviously the opposite proceedure just make sure that (1) and (2) are hand tightened to revent the oil coming out. When the forks are secured by the lower securing bolts the tighten to the required torque.
The right and left forks have different internals but the proceedure is the same. It takes about an hour at most to do both sides once the front wheel etc is out of the way. Hope this helps.
SteelBill wrote:I ride a 04 Goldwing.It's in the shop now because my left fork seal looked bent.They tried to tell me I need need forks until I told them the parts wear out but the metal doesn't.So they are flushing the oil and replacing both seals.My question is has Honda address this problem ? If it's a common problem because of the linked braking system can we get Honda to do something about it ?
flash2002 wrote:If youre left seal is leaking there's a good chance it's the anti dive causing the leak. Most people cancel the anti dive, you could get a kit for that on E-BAY. If your going to change the seals, maybe had a few bucks and change the springs.
dragon2000 wrote:flash2002 wrote:If youre left seal is leaking there's a good chance it's the anti dive causing the leak. Most people cancel the anti dive, you could get a kit for that on E-BAY. If your going to change the seals, maybe had a few bucks and change the springs.
I couldn't agree more. If everything is apart it would be the best time to install Progressive Springs. I did this when I changed the oil on my Valyrie.
mosesmcrae wrote:This monotubes fits down in the tube And no longer requires oil in the strut? My top tube is becoming pitted and I think that may be contributing to the leakage.
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