GL1000 and GL1200 Parts


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Clayton
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Joined: Tue Jul 28, 2009 9:52 am
Location: Outside of Portland Oregon on the Washington side of the river.
Motorcycle: 75 & 78 GL1000, 85 Interstate and 84 Aspencade
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GL1000 and GL1200 Parts

Postby Clayton » Tue Jun 15, 2010 6:41 pm



I have posted this on another site as well, so I apologize for doubling up. However, I am in need of selling out due to future relocation.

I have a sizeable amount of GL1000 and GL1200 parts for sale. I would prefer to sell these all together or in two separate portions but I may consider otherwise.

Fairings, panels, plastic, engines, wheels, forks, carbs, heads, exhaust, frames w/ titles (some with engine blocks), parts bikes, lots of misc. parts, etc….

If you are in need of multiple parts or you are rebuilding GL1000's or GL1200's, this may be of interest to you. Partial list (too much to list individually) and pictures would be available to those whom are seriously interested. I live near Goldendale Washington and in the 98635 zip code.

e-mail: clawayleh@aim.com (due to spam and what not please put Goldwing Forum in the subject heading)

I am really not interested in piecing this out. If you live within a drivable distance, this could be well worth your time. Send me an e-mail if you are interested.



Johnny z
Posts: 13
Joined: Sun Dec 18, 2011 7:39 pm
Location: Park ridge il
Motorcycle: 1978 GL 1000

Re: GL1000 and GL1200 Parts

Postby Johnny z » Wed Jan 18, 2012 9:44 pm

I mam interested in some parts if you would considder for a 78m gl 1000- seat grab bar, front turn signals, exhaust (complete) side cover hardware, shelter hardware to name a few. Thanks

Clayton
Posts: 17
Joined: Tue Jul 28, 2009 9:52 am
Location: Outside of Portland Oregon on the Washington side of the river.
Motorcycle: 75 & 78 GL1000, 85 Interstate and 84 Aspencade
Contact:

Re: GL1000 and GL1200 Parts

Postby Clayton » Fri Jan 20, 2012 5:27 am

I appreciate your interest in my post. Unfortunately, I am out of the country and will be so for the rest of this year. Upon my return, I hope to sell some Goldwings and parts that are in a storage building, hopefully to only one or two buyers and at a great price.

Hope you are able to find what it is that you are looking for.

guy10596
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Location: citrus springs fl
Motorcycle: several goldwings

Re: GL1000 and GL1200 Parts

Postby guy10596 » Sun Feb 12, 2012 10:03 am

Dose anyone one know of a place to buy the diaphragm for the fuel pump on a GL1000 cant see replacing the pump when just the rubber is bad ?

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D2D
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Re: GL1000 and GL1200 Parts

Postby D2D » Sun Feb 12, 2012 10:40 am

I think the unit comes as a complete kit, but I have heard of people making their own. What year is your bike?

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Re: GL1000 and GL1200 Parts

Postby WingAdmin » Sun Feb 12, 2012 10:42 am

I've heard of people looking for replacement diaphragms, but I've never heard of someone who actually found one - Honda stopped making them as a separate part a long time ago. However, I have, as mentioned, heard of people making their own.

guy10596
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Re: GL1000 and GL1200 Parts

Postby guy10596 » Sun Feb 12, 2012 11:18 am

D2D wrote:I think the unit comes as a complete kit, but I have heard of people making their own. What year is your bike?

1975

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D2D
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Re: GL1000 and GL1200 Parts

Postby D2D » Sun Feb 12, 2012 11:32 am

I don't have an extra pump off of a 75 model but I did find a how to to make your own diaphragm in my notes I have assembled for fabricating parts.

here is how you can do it yourself.

1: Pull the pump off the bike and remove the top cover.
2: You need to remove the pivot pin. This is sealed by a hardened ball bearing pressed into each end. Mount the pump on an angle bracket and set it up on a mill or sturdy drill press. You need to drill out one ball bearing with a 4mm diameter CARBIDE end mill. It needs to be solid carbide not HSS. Once its drilled through you can then drive out the pivot pin, pushing the other ball bearing out ahead of it. Then you can drive out the ball bearing with the hole from the other side.
3: You can now pull the pump completely apart so you end up with the diaphragm assembly in your hand.
4: Because the diaphragm shaft has a headed end, you will need to make up a split collet so you can hold the shaft in a lathe. You then need to turn away the riveted head so the diaphragm and washers come off the shaft.
5: While the shaft is in the lathe, drill and tap the centre of the shaft so the new diaphragm can be held in place. I think I used an M3 or M4 tap.
6: Get a sheet of diaphragm material. I used "GOSS HANDI-GASKET GP12 Diaphragm sheet - Nitrile, Fabric reinforced" It's around 1mm thick. Trace the old shape onto the new sheet and cut it out.
7: Reassemble the sheet onto the rod with a wipe of fuel resistant sealer between the washers and screw it together. You'll need an appropriate washer under the screw to allow the assembly to compress a bit as you tighten it up.
8: Assemble the mechanism together and insert the pivot pin. Instead of sealing it with ball bearings, I filled the ends with epoxy, it will make removal a lot easier in the future.

guy10596
Posts: 36
Joined: Wed Jan 04, 2012 8:55 am
Location: citrus springs fl
Motorcycle: several goldwings

Re: GL1000 and GL1200 Parts

Postby guy10596 » Sun Feb 12, 2012 1:01 pm

D2D wrote:I don't have an extra pump off of a 75 model but I did find a how to to make your own diaphragm in my notes I have assembled for fabricating parts.

here is how you can do it yourself.

1: Pull the pump off the bike and remove the top cover.
2: You need to remove the pivot pin. This is sealed by a hardened ball bearing pressed into each end. Mount the pump on an angle bracket and set it up on a mill or sturdy drill press. You need to drill out one ball bearing with a 4mm diameter CARBIDE end mill. It needs to be solid carbide not HSS. Once its drilled through you can then drive out the pivot pin, pushing the other ball bearing out ahead of it. Then you can drive out the ball bearing with the hole from the other side.
3: You can now pull the pump completely apart so you end up with the diaphragm assembly in your hand.
4: Because the diaphragm shaft has a headed end, you will need to make up a split collet so you can hold the shaft in a lathe. You then need to turn away the riveted head so the diaphragm and washers come off the shaft.
5: While the shaft is in the lathe, drill and tap the centre of the shaft so the new diaphragm can be held in place. I think I used an M3 or M4 tap.
6: Get a sheet of diaphragm material. I used "GOSS HANDI-GASKET GP12 Diaphragm sheet - Nitrile, Fabric reinforced" It's around 1mm thick. Trace the old shape onto the new sheet and cut it out.
7: Reassemble the sheet onto the rod with a wipe of fuel resistant sealer between the washers and screw it together. You'll need an appropriate washer under the screw to allow the assembly to compress a bit as you tighten it up.
8: Assemble the mechanism together and insert the pivot pin. Instead of sealing it with ball bearings, I filled the ends with epoxy, it will make removal a lot easier in the future.

i will give it a try , i have two wings that i am restoring and every day is adventure ., thanks Guy




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