Lots of posts about tires, most of them several years old. Some Mfr's no longer make the size for the rear. Size 110/90-19 (F), 130/90-17 (R). Dunlop D404 are available, reasonable pricing. What about Shinko 230, or Bridgestone? Want to avoid center groove treads due to poor tracking on bridges / gr...

+1 ^^^ Fouled plug. This is a very common problem on older 2-strokes, which were notorious for fouled plugs. Just lifting the plug cap and resting lightly on the plug would get us home with minimum inconvenience. Swap plugs. Even if it's new.

Glad you are making progress Kevin.
Remember you helped me out last year with a carb problem (shaft linkage). Happy to be of help in return.

A big spill is not normal. Oil can get sprayed internally into the area where the starter motor snout goes into the engine, so a few drops might be normal. Is the bike overfilled with oil ?? Is the bike level on its center stand ?? Does the bike lean left more than normal angle on its side stand ?? ...

Slow cranking is often from trouble in the power wiring / components like battery, starter motor and heavy cables & connections. But, turning the bars full left would not affect any of that. So, I'm guessing the slow cranking is due to loss of ignition. With no help whatsoever from the plugs, it cra...

Congratulations on the progress. There is a discharge valve of similar construction. Try to clean that on in place with solvent and air (not too much air.) You were able to heat the body to extract the intake valve, but locally heating the pot metal cast carb body with propane torch is a risky proce...

Did that all the time back in the day. It was faster, more convenient on the old kick-start bikes. But they were smaller than a Wing. We'd just take a couple strides along side the bike, hop on, pop the clutch and we'd be at 30 mph in an instant. But at my age, and the weight of the Wing... amen on ...

Should take only a few "squirts" to get accel pump gas into the #3 carb. A few more to fill the lengthy passages to the other carbs. Problem is probably clogged passages or valves. There are 2 check valves (inflow & outflow) in the #3 carb accel pump that easily clog on long dormant carbs. But there...

Finding a local contact to check it out is the best idea. I am in Minnesota, but 3-1/2 hrs away from Duluth... and it's still winter here. But winter is considered a "buyer's market" due to the weather. I looked a the ad... not much info, pictures aren't recent. I'd want a LOT more info re: history ...

We all hate the sight glass. Bike has to be on center stand (difficult for me), or propped upright. Have to get down low, often dirty, greasy, wet floor. Flashlight helps. Can't tell "low or empty" from "over full". On a fresh fill, I pour a little, then check, and repeat. I need to see the oil leve...

Keep searching for threads, both on and off this forum. Each thread on carb rebuild can show/tell some new info or tips or diagrams. I have replaced needles while retaining the orig seat. Clean the seat with q-tip and solvent till it's shiny. The needle tips are probably trash if they were stuck. Ma...

I attended the Minneapolis show this Feb. Same story. Much smaller than just last year. Last year I tried riding the electrics, and tried (minimal success) to do a "Wheelie" at their participation booth. No Goldwings in the classic display area either. Guys in the Vintage booth tried to recruit me t...

Got to start with basic info & testing. What actually melted... bat. cable, connector lug, bat. post, ?? could be just a poor connection right at the battery. Did it fry right away with just key on. Or was only when you started to crank it? Remove the cable. Will the bat. post show 12 v. (after char...

Newday777 is correct... More work to do. Fuel can flow thru the petcock, and thru the pump, to possibly flood the carbs with the bike not running. Always turn the petcock off. To save repeated carb rack installing /removing, bench test the assembled carbs with a temporary fuel line about 4 feet long...

Can't locate a rebuild guide article on-line that I have paper copies of. Thought I got it off a Saunders site? Here is a link to a good info article, but it's just an "extra details" type of article and not a total rebuild guide, but helpful in many ways: https://www.randakksblog.com/gl1100-carb-de...

I can appreciate the challenges of service and parts difficulties in South Africa. The carbs on these bikes do need attention periodically. But most DIYers can handle it OK. This website has lots of help. The leaking is due to the float itself, or float needle valve. An instantaneous fix is to rap o...

Starting only while holding clutch in suggests a problem with the neutral switch. Could be the internal switch itself. But with your other wiring trouble, I'd start checking the neutral switch wires and connectors. A wiring diagram would be helpful in finding those. Does your neutral indicator light...

The GL1100 drain plug is more to the right side. But the bike is a b...h to get on the center stand alone (old guy). I have several jackstands handy, so I put a jack stand (in a low position) under the right crash bar. Then slide another one under the left crash bar as I rock the bike upright. Easy,...

Seems ridiculously high $$ for registration fix. I did one in MN, with no paperwork from the PO, for about $80 including the new plate. I have heard 2nd hand that there are some states that will record a "new" title application in their state via long distance, for the price of some simple paperwork...

Funny how several members (me included) can read the same post and visualize different conditions. Statements about separating left & right, and fuel "tube" can lead to different conclusions. I too forgot about the red straw when thinking about fuel tubes. True, the red straw (or other color if some...

+1 on the total carb rebuild ^^ If the cross tube is clear, and it doesn't have an O-ring, and it is not spraying fuel, then the blockage is inside Carb #3 probably. Any Wing that has sat for 15 yrs needs a total carb rebuild (and tank clean, and fuel lines, etc. etc.) Check the DIY articles and ord...

The brush kit you mentioned above is brushes only. I often re-use springs. There are also re-build kits with more pieces. Since it is off-season, I'd pull it apart and see what shape it's in. Then decide on what parts, or even consider a new, or re-built whole assembly. If the commutator is damaged ...

Slow "chugs", like there's not enough battery to spin the engine (but the battery is good) is more likely the starter itself, rather than the sprag clutch part. Especially if the problem is more pronounced HOT rather than cold. You don't say how many miles, or if the starter has ever been serviced s...

There is no specific "fork adjuster" tool or device. You just improvise. Depending upon whether that side of the fork needs to go "in" or "out", you use a wedge, prybar, clamp, lever, etc. Or try to just slightly snug the lower fork clamps, and then coax the fork in or out with a suitable drift and ...

Correct caliper clearances require that the tips of the forks have an exact spacing distance, relative to each other, and relative to the lateral position of the wheel/discs. The forks have enough flex or "give" to them that they can be slightly out of position as they are clamped to the axle. The f...