It appears that you may have multiple problems. Low charging voltage is one. The 3-wire plug noted above is located just left of the battery. A 2-filament bulb indicates a turn signal, and a running light function. When the two filaments alternate blinking it is likely an open grounding. The current...

I use Foremost (affiliated with Farmers Ins). It's $123 / yr and covers 2 bikes. Includes Liability, medical, collision, accessories, helmets, towing, etc. My agent first offered a policy thru Farmers, at much higher $$. I countered with a quote from Progressive. Then he "found" this polic...

If memory serves me, that brass fuel inlet tube on #3carb easily comes out of the carb body. A bracket holds it in, look for a mounting screw right next to the tube. I think there is 1 or 2 o-rings on it??

No, its way too far away. My sister lives in Port Dover. It is truly a big deal there. She looks forward to it every Friday the 13th. The town is very receptive, and appreciates the activity (and $$$ spent). They even produced a calendar commemorating the tradition. There are various stories about h...

Just been through this same scenario myself. I did a quick refurbish on my oem starter over this past winter. Lasted only about 20 starts. Looked like the same commutator damage as yours. Look closely at your brushes. The ground side brush is well retracted in the holder, even though there is nothin...

Your response to Rambozo's post suggests you may not own a voltmeter, or may not know how to use one. Your symptoms are very basic (No power to anything). I doubt there is a YouTube that starts that basic. But if you have a voltmeter here's a starting point: Find a good ground, like a bolt on the fr...

Proper sequence for mechanical bench sync, or vacuum gauge sync...
Carb #3 is the "master". Sync #1 to #3. Then sync #4 to #3. Then sync #2 to #4. Then adjust idle stop screw to get idle speed back to normal. If you needed to adjust idle significantly, then repeat the sync sequence.

I appreciate the challenges of having no garage. Perhaps you are light in the tools dept too. You could ream out the tubes as you mentioned. Other "tools" could be an electrical wire, long zip tie, or thin somewhat stiff plastic tube. Be sure to flush out anything you loosen up. You probab...

A blockage on both tubes, in a clean tank seems highly unlikely. Pulling the tank is a big job. I'd first try blowing back into the two ports where the petcock mounts. Just by a piece of tubing and your mouth for starters. Compressed air next. Whatever you learn will help decide the next move.

Changing wheel diameter does affect overall gear ratio. I don't know the exact diam difference between your wheel/tire selections, but it's probably in the 5% - 10% range. You may not notice it around town, but highway cruising will add 200 - 400 rpm at 60 mph. I understand that you are trying to ge...

The 1157 bulb is the standard automotive bulb for 2-filment turn signals. The 1034 is slightly less bright on the turn filament. Only 1-filament bulbs have the pins on each side at the same height. The 2-filament bulbs have the pins at different height so you can't put them in backwards.

Coolant level is not terribly critical... you don't want it to go empty, and you need a little headroom for a hot engine to push some fluid up there. So a level anywhere near the middle is good. I know the early 1100's are a bear to get up on the center stand (mine certainly is) so I only do that fo...

If it is blocked on both ports, then its probably a petcock problem. If it was just a screen problem it would likely only be on one port. I have drilled the rivets and rebuilt my petcock with success. i even did a poor job of drilling resulting in a wobbled out hole. But machine screws and nuts held...

Since no one else has responded, here's a few comments from general experience... I have never dismantled a Goldwing speedo, but I have been inside automotive units. Make sure the cable was inserted fully. Did it go in easily (i.e. it's square so it has to be aligned. You didn't jam it in?) The need...

Saw this advertised on Facebook. $35.00 Price sounds too cheap for a quality lift.
Has anyone had experience with this ??

webpage link:
https://www.hovemart.shop/products/m88? ... crtMfGcP2o

I'm 80 yrs old, with no plans to stop anytime soon. I am aware of some decline in strength and flexibility, but I'm in good health and active lifestyle. I am a return rider having ridden extensively in my youth, then a long gap for career and family, then returning 5 yrs ago at age 75. I ride mostly...

I feel a need to jump in here. Ten yr old original post, but the topic is "ageless". I'm 80 yrs old, with no plans to stop anytime soon. I am aware of some decline in strength and flexibility, but I'm in good health and active lifestyle. I am a return rider having ridden extensively in my ...

I always enjoy technical posting by WingAdmin and DenverWinger. You can trust them... they know what they are talking about... sometimes seriously, and sometimes humorously. I'm an old guy (80 yo) whose initial training was about vacuum tubes, but now still consulting about digital era factory autom...

Not looking for help really... Just want to vent my frustration. There it is... hiding behind the radiator fan... daring me to extract and replace it. Well, I got it out without too much trouble. Slip-joint pliers to remove the connector, then a 1-1/16" socket (who has a 26mm deep socket ??). T...

My '80 is Candy Burgundy... probably not the best... along with my black jacket & helmet. But I'm always suspicious of anybody's "statistics". There are a LOT more black and red bikes, than white or yellow. Raw data, improperly analyzed, can be misleading... (covid numbers for example!)

I understand the limited availability in SA. But it sounds like you need a useable used part. Try the internet, but shipping to SA may limit you. Are there any bike breakers in SA ?(junk yards) The used one might need some refurbishment as well, but seals are easier to find than master cylinders. Sa...

Glad to hear you are getting active again. Why are you suspecting a clutch problem? Merely sitting for 6 years does not really predict a clutch problem. Many 'barn finds' have been sitting much longer without a clutch problem. Carbs/fuel system problems are more likely. Test the clutch function befo...

It should not be leaking from that cap. You have a bad cap, or it isn't seated fully, or a cracked radiator neck. That fluid should be contained in the hose going into the overflow tank. Check hose, clamps, blockage, etc.

Need clarification... Do you mean the radiator cap on the actual radiator, or the overflow bottle cap, up under the shelter? Do you have an overflow bottle?? The heat cycles should routinely push some fluid up into the overflow bottle on first heat cycle, then suck it back into the radiator on coold...

Something is badly worn, or more likely poorly reassembled after the last wheel removal. Check the DIY's on this site for rear wheel/tire removal and re-installation. There is a specific sequence for tightening the axle nut, and the driveshaft flange to keep things aligned right. There are shoulders...