Interesting spreadsheet...you seemed to maintain mid-30's even doing 95mph on most occasions and only dropped to low 20's during high winds. The windshield on my 99' isn't stock but it's not as tall as I'd prefer either. I had a 24" on my ST1100 to get it so it went above the top of my helmet. This ...

Air filter - is black and ready for changing ?? - Recently 'recharged'. High end filter. The fuel filter is brand new, recently replaced. Spark plugs ?? - are correct gap in good order too ?? - Haven't checked the plugs, but she runs/sounds perfect. oil - what grade is it ?? - When was it last chang...

I'm using an exact number of gallons and exact miles. It varies +- 2-5 miles. I fill up at Costco and I fill up to the top every time so I know I'm getting the exact same amount of gas each time. Last time I got 160 miles on 5.5 gallons. I don't accelerate hard and I can't brake hard. Since the lock...

I have a 99' Aspencade, bought in March of this year with 67k miles on it. I've replaced the fuel filter, air filter, checked the oil, done all routine maintenance and made plenty of upgrades/etc. I use it primarily to get to/from work every day, which is a 100 mile commute. I've noticed that I'm on...

I finally got a chance to take the seat apart and check the blue-white cable. The light comes on when I first turn on the ignition, it comes on when I short the blue-white cable. The connection seemed solid enough, so I'm not convinced that it was 'loose' and that was causing it to fail. I know that...

Sorry for the late reply...things have been chaotic recently. I haven't had a chance to take off the seat and check the wiring as indicated in a previous post. Since the light isn't working properly, I've been refueling on a more conservative basis, not letting it get low again. (although it did get...

I've read the posts that go into details about checking the sensor, floats, etc., even swapping out the thermistor. But before I go digging that deep, I was wondering (and hoping) that was a simpler possible solution as to why the light didn't come on recently as it should have when I was out of gas...

Wow... SO many great replies on this topic. I did get some Flitz spray cleaner and that took care of some of the more annoying marks. I did notice that I'm going to have to take off the wheels if I'm going to truly get them "clean" and polished up nice. Oddly, the rear tire isn't really all that bad...

Thanks for once again being right.

Mine has two sets of LED's but no metal piece.

I got it installed. The overall brightness is fine but there doesn't seem to be any actual "high" beams. When I hit the switch, it bumps the light up a tiny bit but not the proper amount like it did with the stock Halogen. I know that the LED's aren't installed upside down or anything like that. Not...

Any brand of polish/cleaner that stands out?

We've got ones like Brasso, ZEP, Flitz...

My wheels are in need of a good cleaning, but nothing I've tried so far is working very well.

What's the best way to clean these and get them polished to a new shine?

There is a clip/hook on the front of the radio that needs to go over the lip of the front of the radio shelter. The best way to install the radio back into the radio shelter is to lay the shelter upside down,hold the radio also upside down at a downward angle facing forward. Make sure that clip/hoo...

If that were true though, how would it explain that it doesn't sit flat even with the grommets REMOVED entirely?

I ordered them from Partzilla:

83156-MN5-000 - GROMMET, TOP SHELTER
2 2 $4.86

And it doesn't sit right even when I remove the grommets entirely.

The 2nd time I removed the console, I actually lost one of the grommets when it went flying. So I replaced both of them with new ones. They're SUPER tight but even when I remove the grommets entirely and just let the cover 'sit' in the slots, it's still off-kilter.

I've had this problem ever since I first took apart the radio console in order to work on the air filter and install the rear speakers. The ignition cover wasn't laying flat again when I put everything back together. I double checked the cables to make sure none of them were lying underneath the rad...

I noticed both of those issues, but can't I simply remove the black faces and swap them with the white ones on my dash, so that everything else stays the same? (and working)

God bless,

~Mark

I had hoped that the claims of the white gauges being terrible were either exaggerated or wouldn't be as big a deal for me...turns out they are. I'm looking to replace the white gauges in my dash with black ones. I believe any gauges from 97-00 will work. If you have a set or know where I could look...

Unfortunately, I'm sure. I do know of the hole you're referring to and it's there and has a cover on it. This is something else... the entire area around it was wet from the brake fluid. I did have the saddlebag stuffed but not overstuffed.

I didn't think about the fluid-in-the-bottle trick. I was able to feed fluid back into the system after a couple of hours of going back and forth between the front and rear bleeding each one repeatedly. I know for a fact that the leak came out the rear, it was obvious not only on the caliper but als...

MikeB wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 05, 2020 1:11 pm

As usual, you are doing something wrong. You will just have to figure out what it is.

Ok Mike, here are the instructions. Please show me where I'm doing something wrong "as usual".

MikeB wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 05, 2020 1:11 pm

As usual, you are doing something wrong. You will just have to figure out what it is.

As usual?

I'll take a picture of the instructions, which only have 4 steps, and you can tell me how I'm doing something wrong, "as usual".

The bulbs from the kit that I got don't have a removable heatsink. The kit that WingAdmin reviewed did have removable heatsinks on them, but mine doesn't. So there's nothing to remove outside of the housing that sits in the headlight cavity.

This is the old style: