Not really..if it's a Vetter fairing it shoudl fit teh mounting brackets didn't change that much but the bag mounts may be a problem as the frame and side cover a totally difference. so what brand of bags does he have.

Yep and you don't need to take all that stuff off; you can get to the two bolts that hold the ignition on just by working a wrench under and behind the top of the mount at least on earlier models the ones w/o the electronic display..I done it several times.. But once you have it out you can pop the ...

170 perfect
160-169 excellent
150-159 -very good
140-149-good
lower than 140 manual says time for rebuild but they will run OK down to 120's even 100's

If low add oil to each cylinder and retest if they come up = ring issues. If not valve issues

testing done with throttle wide open stop run off.

1st are you sure about this mechanic??? second cheaper to find a "new" motor than rebuild one. Third very hard to find all the parts you need to rebuild, like main bearings.. fourth do all teh tests above. More info on the bike has it sat a long time..if so rings may loosen up with a little use. Wha...

I am not familiar with the cb ears do they have the post sticking out to mount the turn signals of the 1100's..to me that would be the issue for fitment.

I am of the school if it ain't broke don't fix it. but..besides the things you listed..check the forks for leaks, replace the brake fluid front and rear, rear gear oil too. check the brake pads and rotors, steering head check for smooth operation, lube all the cables.

If teh petcock is bad it only leaks when yoiu are riding..there is a weep hole to show yous the diaphragm is bad..it drys up fairly quickly after you stop the bike as most of it drains out the tray's hose.

Any gas sitting in the tray around the gas cap..= leaky petcock..???

And replace the valve seals while you have it apart.

Yep line it up..hold in place with wench and zip ties while you install the belt. Cams on the 1/3 side push the cam wheel so it has to be held in place to install the belt.

Yep if the bike falls over and the pegs hit it may puncture the valve cover rather than being protection they make it a hazard.

So any chance you can translate..picture of it installed..looks like a great solution and a hell of a lot cheaper than the one around here.

So how/where does it attach to he frame/header?

Western Honda still lists them as available???

look here

http://shop.westernhonda.com/fiche_sect ... fveh=13084

The Yamaha stuff comes in a pour bottle or at least did...vinegar turns carbs black or grayer..not generally used for carbs more a gas tank cleaner. Carb cleaner is better as long as you remove all the rubber bits first.

Last two days it's working perfectly!! Going to be hard to track this down until it totally stops working.

All custom stuff I have never seen a manufacture's retro for a 10000's or 1100's single seat mod. Check the custom forum over at NGW..

Yep, doesn't look like fun tracking this down...if the tach is all electrical why would it be slow to activate most electrical stuff is good or bad..except loose wiring...

Anyone have a diagram of the tach wiring/sensor??

Over the last few weeks my tach didn't register anything until I blimped the throttle on morning start ups. I ignored it..Anyway yesterday it did it again but didn't register even after the blimp..I took off away noticed the speedo wasn't registering either..but after 30 second both started working ...

Yes lots of people loose them and don't notice...

Did you make sure you didn't loose the little pin that "sets" the pulse in the right position???

Sorry but I am going to win the contest this month..

Those numbers are low run the bike for awhile and see if the compression improves..sticky rings my guess.then try to synch. Won't hurt anything synch is just for a smooth idle

Yep there is a weep hole in that unit...singalong you need to rebuild!!