With your auto experience and shop access, you can likely, successfully, restore anything. If you're paying somebody, you are usually better off starting with the best example you can find. You've probably seen some $10,000 rolling chassis come through your shop, get restored for $30,000 or $40,000 ...

Are they originally decals? Some compromised clear on mine looks like they are extremely flimsy paper-like material between the paint and the clear?

You might try a little gentler approach first, try to rock the bike with the rear wheel on the ground with the clutch pulled in. If you try the 3000 rpm route, make sure your bike is solidly on the center stand and no vibration will roll it off.

Randakk said it best. If it goes away above idle, it's the primary chain, a known quirk and nothing to worry about. Carb and ignition synch like mentioned above can indeed make it worse.

https://www.randakksblog.com/diesel-clatter/

I have had Krauser bags on my 77 since 78 and the original Krauser mounts were made of aluminum and were far from rock solid and parts that actually attached to the bike rapidly failed and were replaced with homemade stainless steel replacements. The bags themselves and the brackets where the bags f...

Are you sure that is gas coming out your exhaust and not water vapor? Gas vaporizes at fairly low temperatures and it is normal for engines to create water vapor that condenses in the exhaust before warmup is complete.

1/8 inch is insignificant. It’s fine.

My 77 stock muffler has had an occasional, intermittent rattle at certain rpms for decades. Hasn’t gotten any worse or affected anything. I don’t think you can beat the looks or sound of stock exhaust.

My 77 still has the original clutch at 223,000 miles and the only time it has ever slipped is when the clutch cable was starting to stick.

I've gone through at least two ignition switches in 40 years. The rivets on the copper contacts loosen up and make an intermittent connection. Tricky to find. You can get just the plastic piece that rotates the contacts and don't have to buy the whole housing with key etc... The first problem only s...

Don't worry about checking the valves because of the valve cover gaskets. The gaskets are rubber and are good for dozens of removal and re-use.

Try pulling the choke out part way and see if that helps.

Also, if you still have points and don't have enough dwell (too large of a gap), can make for a week spark just when a stronger spark is needed.

It depends on what is wrong with it but if it's still running and ridable, it might be better utilized as a running bike vs a parts bike.

Yes, the profile or height of the tire can more than make up the difference.

My 77 has averaged 45mpg for over 200K. I've seen it in the 30's and 50's. I don't think I could get the mileage down in the 20's no matter how I rode.

I've tried to break the ones I took off, used them as straps, etc. They still won't break. They're just not that fragile.

The 77 Honda factory shop manual must be wrong then along with my experience. I replaced mine at 216,000 and over 30 years old. I did inspect and tension them several times over that period. The factory shop manual says and shows how to inspect at a top end overhaul. Mine has never had a top end ove...

I see several on ebay starting at 59.99 shipped. That one looks a little scuzzy, for another $15 or so you can get a nice one with the holding strap, etc...

A tight valve that doesn't close can lower your compression.

Read through this link where some have successfuly rebuilt their GL1000 fuel pumps with $6 Chevy diaphragms.
http://www.forum.classicgoldwings.com/v ... 10&p=77205

And easy to change, it should just come out with a small pick or screwdriver and the new one just press in, maybe with a small socket.

Check your valve clearances.
Compression is usually checked with throttle wide open. Not sure if there is a way to ensure constant velocity carbs are open? Is your air cleaner clean? Any other intake obstructions?

A squirt of carburetor cleaner in the intake can help a lot after they sit for a while. They pop right off and gets everything flowing again. Alternatively, cranking a couple revolutions with the emergency switch off and then turning it back on while cranking can enrich the mixture and not having le...

I bought 2 Honda units on Ebay. The first one was supposedly NOS but it was obviously used and bad when it arrived and I was refunded the money. The second one was advertised as used and worked.

Just gravity should work on the front brakes. Worst case all you really need is a clear hose like a battery vent hose on the bleeder and pump away. Once you see the brake fluid in the hose, air cannot get back in. Turns bleeding car brakes into a one man job with no vacuum pump needed.