golden highway wrote: ↑

Sat Sep 15, 2018 7:44 pm

Agreed.

Wonder how the naysayers will spin everything he has done as bad.

No need to wonder. Just watch the robots on CNN, et al.

Might just be a refugee of the infamous "dropped bolt" syndrome. lol

You need to check the fuel pump output to determine if it is actually working.

Interstate models do not have reverse. However if there is a reverse lever the engine has been changed or it isn't an interstate. Tranny in neutral, pull out and up on the lever until it latches (R will display on the dash unless it is an interstate with a different motor) then press the start butto...

Try the manufacturer for assistance.

http://www.rtsidecars.com/RocketTeer-Sc ... -s/106.htm

Riding with shorts on and complaining about hot legs reminds me of that old Henny Youngman joke. (Yeah I'm old) Patient: Doctor it hurts when I do this. Doctor: Then don't do that!

3k or higher is best. These bikes love higher rpm.

They only list the front tire in their fitment chart. No rear tire.

Yeah I'm just looking for some magic solution. Was hoping not have to tear down the forks. Oh well, here goes nothing. lol

virgilmobile wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 05, 2018 11:07 am

My noise up front was the caliper bushing missing.
Perhaps the bolt up under the axle is loose?

Virgil are you talking about the bolt that has to be removed to separate the forks?
This started all of the sudden. One day good the next day bang.

This problem just recently developed when on our trip to Utah (93 1500). When I ride through a rut or off a shallow drop off (say at least 2 inches) at slow speeds , about 10 to 15 mph, the forks go BANG. And I mean BANG. Sounds like hitting a boulder with a sledge hammer. I can't think of anything ...

My 76 has no red marker. I've never seen one with the marker.???

The only crime I have experienced was with the four legged type. Coyotes broke into my ice chest by chewing the hinges off even though the lid had no latch to lock it.

Sorry your images aren't working for me.

The weight alone would keep me from buying it. 400 lbs "empty" is a bunch. Doable but.....considering the added weight of all your gear???

CycleTrader is another option.

I found this thread at goldwingfacts. Looks like you have older Progressives.

https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2- ... ics/382105

The inner fender position has to be modified to use the Austone and even then riding two up can cause the tire to rub and melt the inner fender. It also causes the bike to lean over considerably more when on the side stand. Harder to lift. Doubt a taller tire would work at all.

I also like foam grips. Decreases vibration and the increase in diameter helps with hand fatigue.
Look here.
https://cyclemax.com/inc/sdetail/foam_grip_covers/15395

RBGERSON wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 27, 2018 8:13 am

Two solenoids a and b in front of the battery if either is stuck will not start. But idea to check for v's at teh starter post..

Some reason I was reading 92 and thinking 82. Dumb dumb!

You will definitely notice one bad accelerator pump since there is only one at the #3 carb.

Since you are getting a click more than likely the starter has failed. If so a rebuild is better than replacing with an aftermarket. Most of them are junk. However you should check for voltage at the starter post to be sure. If you have voltage there the solenoid is good and the starter is bad.

Any "pet" odor remover will probably work.

Sounds like normal tire on pavement noise to me. I have around 9k (almost no visible wear or cupping) on my e4s. I removed e3s early because of the noise and vibration due to cupping. The e4s are a marked improvement over the e3s.

Thats good! Glad you got her running.